| 广东阳西近岸海域海浪谱分析 |
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| 引用本文： | 束芳芳,蔡锋,何佳,陈智杰,廖康明.广东阳西近岸海域海浪谱分析[J].台湾海峡,2012,31(4):557-564. |
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| 作者姓名： | 束芳芳 蔡锋 何佳 陈智杰 廖康明 |
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| 作者单位： | 1. 中国海洋大学海洋地球科学学院,山东青岛 266100;国家海洋局第三海洋研究所,福建厦门 361005
2. 国家海洋局第三海洋研究所,福建厦门,361005 |
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| 基金项目： | 国家海洋局第三海洋研究所基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目 |
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| 摘 要： | 根据广东阳西近岸海域测站1a实测共4 949组的原始随机波面观测记录,用自相关函数法和快速傅里叶变换法进行谱估计,得到波谱各特征参数,并与实测波面统计的特征值进行比较,经分析,选用快速傅里叶变换法估计研究海域的实测谱,对粗谱进行平滑和分析,筛选出研究海域海浪的样本谱498个,将平滑后的谱形无维量化,得到广东阳西海域海浪无维量平均谱曲线并求出对应谱参数,计算得到谱峰频率f0为0.121,特征频率μ10、μ20分别为1.929、2.733,谱宽度ε、ν为0.83、1.39.采用5种理论频谱模式对实测无维量谱进行拟合,根据拟合结果推荐γ=1.920 5的JONSWAP谱或者b=5.7、δ=6.0、k=0.5的莆田谱作为广东阳西近岸海域的海浪谱型,对该海区的工程建设、海浪预报警报和海浪理论研究具有较好的参考作用,对我国其他类似海域也有一定的参考价值.
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| 关 键 词： | 物理海洋学 广东阳西近岸海域 谱估计 谱拟合 理论谱模式 |
Wave spectrum analysis of Guangdong Yangxi offshore area |
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| SHU Fang-fang
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CAI Feng
,
HE Jia
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CHEN Zhi-jie
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LIAO Kang-ming.Wave spectrum analysis of Guangdong Yangxi offshore area[J].Journal of Oceanography In Taiwan Strait,2012,31(4):557-564. |
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| Authors: | SHU Fang-fang CAI Feng HE Jia CHEN Zhi-jie LIAO Kang-ming |
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| Institution: | 1.College of Marine Geosciences,Ocean University of China,Qingdao 266100,China; 2.Third Institute of Oceanography,SOA,Xiamen 361005,China) |
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| Abstract: | Adopting the autocorrelation function and the fast Fourier transform method,this study estimated the Guangdong Yangxi offshore wave spectrum on the basis of a total of 4 949 sets of original random wave surface observation records,and compared it with the measured surface wave statistical eigenvalue.After analysis,the fast Fourier transform was employed to study the measured wave spectrum of the study area.By smoothing and analyzing the raw wave spectrum,498 sample spectrums of the study area were selected.We got the normalized average spectrum line of Guangdong Yangxi offshore area by normalizing the smoothed spectrum,and calculated the corresponding spectrum parameters.The peak frequency f0 was 0.121.The characteristic frequency μ10 and μ10were 1.929 and 2.733.The spectrum width ε and ν were 0.83 and 1.39.The measured spectrum was fitted with five kinds of theoretical frequency spectrum model.According to the fitting results,we recommend JONSWAP（γ=1.920 5） or Putian（b=5.7、δ=6.0、k=0.5） as the representation wave spectrum male of Guangdong Yangxi offshore area,This study provides a good reference for the construction,wave warning and forecast,and wave theoretical research of the studied area.It also has certain reference value for the similar sea area in China. |
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| Keywords: | physical oceanography Guangdong Yangxi offshore area spectrum estimation spectrum fitting theoretical frequency spectrum model |
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