Runup of the surface waves of various shapes on a sloping beach |
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| Authors: | S F Dotsenko N K V Sannikova |
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| Institution: | 1.Marine Hydrophysical Institute,Ukrainian National Academy of Sciences,Sevastopol,Ukraine |
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| Abstract: | In the long-wave approximation, we perform the numerical analysis of the plane problem of runup of waves of various shapes
on a sloping beach. We study transformations of the shape of waves flooding the beach and in the course of their subsequent
rundown. The dependence of maximum elevations and lowerings of the sea level on the parameters of the waves approaching the
beach, the depth of the shelf, and the slope of the bottom are investigated. It is shown that the shape of waves affects the
amplitude characteristics of oscillations of the coastline. The heights of the vertical runup of waves incident on a sloping
beach can be several times higher than the amplitude of waves entering the shelf zone. |
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