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Process-based model for nearshore hydrodynamics, sediment transport and morphological evolution in the surf and swash zones
Authors:R Bakhtyar  A Ghaheri  A Yeganeh-Bakhtiary  DA Barry
Institution:aLaboratoire de technologie écologique, Institut d’ingénierie de l’environnement, Faculté de l’environnement naturel, architectural et construit, Ecole polytechnique fédérale de Lausanne, Switzerland;bDepartment of Civil Engineering, Iran University of Science and Technology, Tehran, Iran
Abstract:Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the nearshore zone were modeled numerically taking into account turbulent unsteady flow. The flow field was computed using the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a kε turbulence closure model, while the free surface was tracked using the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. This hydrodynamical model was supplemented with a cross-shore sediment transport formula to calculate profile changes and sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Based on the numerical solutions, flow characteristics and the effects of breaking waves on sediment transport were studied. The main characteristic of breaking waves, i.e. the instantaneous sediment transport rate, was investigated numerically, as was the spatial distribution of time-averaged sediment transport rates for different grain sizes. The analysis included an evaluation of different values of the wave friction factor and an empirical constant characterizing the uprush and backwash. It was found that the uprush induces a larger instantaneous transport rate than the backwash, indicating that the uprush is more important for sediment transport than the backwash. The results of the present model are in reasonable agreement with other numerical and physical models of nearshore hydrodynamics. The model was found to predict well cross-shore sediment transport and thus it provides a tool for predicting beach morphology change.
Keywords:Bottom friction  k  color:black" href="/science?_ob=MathURL&_method=retrieve&_udi=B6V1V-4WDNBTY-1&_mathId=mml32&_user=10&_cdi=5684&_rdoc=7&_acct=C000054348&_version=1&_userid=3837164&md5=21964474ff08644facb5c8ea0efb4fa5" title="Click to view the MathML source"  ε" target="_blank">alt="Click to view the MathML source">ε   turbulence closure model  Profile changes  Reynolds Averaged Navier–  Stokes  Upwash/Backwash  Wave breaking
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