Study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs based on a shock-capturing Boussinesq model |
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| Institution: | 1. School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science and Technology, Changsha, Hunan 410114, China;2. Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California at San Diego, La Jolla, CA 92093, USA;3. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha, Hunan 410114, China |
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| Abstract: | This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter. |
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| Keywords: | Fringing reefs Irregular wave Run-up Spectral components Boussinesq wave model |
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