Measurements and modelling of the advection of suspended sediment in the swash zone by solitary waves |
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| Authors: | Jose M Alsina Silvia Falchetti Tom E Baldock |
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| Institution: | 1. Laboratorio de Ingeniería Marítima, Universidad Politécnica de Cataluña, 08034 Barcelona, Spain;2. Dipartimento di Ingegneria delle Costruzioni, dell''Ambiente e del Territorio, Università di Genova, Genova, Italy;3. Division of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, Brisbane, Qld 4072, Australia |
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| Abstract: | Novel laboratory experiments and numerical modelling have been performed to study the advection scales of suspended sediment in the swash zone. An experiment was designed specifically to measure only the sediment picked up seaward of the swash zone and during bore collapse. The advection scales and settling of this sediment were measured during the uprush along a rigid sediment-free beach face by a sediment trap located at varying cross-shore positions. Measurements were made using a number of repeated solitary broken waves or bores. Approximately 25% of the pre-suspended sediment picked up by the bores reaches the mid-swash zone (50% of the horizontal run-up distance), indicating the importance of the sediment advection in the lower swash zone. The pre-suspended sediment is sourced from a region seaward of the shoreline (still water line) which has a width of about 20% of the run-up distance. An Eulerian–Lagrangian numerical model is used to model the advection scales of the suspended sediment. The model resolves the hydrodynamics by solving the non-linear shallow water equations in an Eulerian framework and then solves the advection–diffusion equation for turbulence and suspended sediment in a Lagrangian framework. The model provides good estimates of the measured mass and distribution of sediment advected up the beach face. The results suggest that the correct modelling of turbulence generation prior to and during bore collapse and the advection of the turbulent kinetic energy into the lower swash is important in resolving the contribution of pre-suspended sediment to the net sediment transport in the swash zone. |
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