Non-linear propagation of unidirectional wave fields over varying topography |
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| Institution: | 1. EDF, Laboratoire National d''Hydraulique, 6 quai Watier, Chatou 78 400, France;2. LSEET, Université de Toulon et du Var, BP 132, La Garde 83 957, France;1. Technology Research & Development Institute, KEPCO KPS, 211, Munhwa-ro, Naju-si, Jeollanam-do, 58217, Republic of Korea;2. Department of Mechanical System Engineering, Kyonggi University, 154-42, Gwanggyosan-ro, Yeongtong-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do, 16227, Republic of Korea;1. Universidad Autonoma del Estado de Mexico, Av. Instituto Literarion 100, C.P. 50000, Toluca, Mexico;2. Benemerita Universidad Autonoma de Puebla, Av. 4 Sur 104, C. P. 72001, Puebla, Mexico;1. State Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering, School of Naval Architecture, Ocean and Civil Engineering, Shanghai Jiao Tong University, Shanghai 200240, China;2. Collaborative Innovation Center for Advanced Ship and Deep-Sea Exploration, Shanghai 200240, China;1. Department of Mathematics, Pohang University of Science and Technology, Pohang 790-784, South Korea;2. Key Laboratory of Computational Geodynamics, University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100049, PR China;3. Department of Geology and Geophysics, University of Minnesota, Minneapolis, MN 55455, USA |
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| Abstract: | The present study aims at investigating the non-linear triad interaction process affecting shoaling surface gravity wave fields. The triad interaction phenomenon being enhanced towards the shore, the domain of study is extended up to the surf zone. Three 1D non-linear wave models (one phase-resolving and two phase-averaged spectral models) have been implemented and compared to laboratory experiments performed in a wave flume. This set of models includes two existing models and a new one which has been developed in the frame of this work. The models include a breaking dissipation term based on the parametrical model of Battjes and Janssen Battjes, J.A., Janssen, P.A.E.M., 1978. Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. (ASCE), Vol. 1, pp. 569–587.]. The investigations concern the evolution of variance spectra, spectral significant wave height and mean period over a barred bathymetric profile. In addition, the performances of the different models are analysed by computing the spectral source term for triad interactions. We found that all models are able to reproduce the main features of non-linear mechanisms affecting a wave field in the near-shore zone. The phase-resolving model gives the most accurate results for non-breaking situations. It correctly reproduces the non-linear coupling effect in decreasing water depths due to wave–wave interactions, as well as the harmonic release after a bar. However, the model is computationally time-consuming. The CPU time is considerably reduced using phase-averaged models. They give satisfactorily results on harmonic generation. However, they do not reproduce the release of harmonics as water depth increases. In breaking conditions, the variance spectra undergo significant changes under the combined effects of non-linear energy transfers and dissipation. The depth-induced wave breaking model included in the equations provides a good estimate of the energy decay in the surf zone. |
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