A locally nonlinear interpretation of PUV measurements |
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| Institution: | 1. Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of California, 539 Davis Hall, Berkeley, CA 94720-1710, USA;2. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, USAE Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS 39180, USA;1. University of A Coruña, Laboratorio de Ingeniería Mecánica, 15403 Ferrol, Spain;2. Ifremer, BP 70, 29280 Plouzané, France;1. Ministry of Education Key Laboratory for Coast and Island Development, Nanjing University, Nanjing 210097, China;2. Sino-Australian Research Centre for Coastal Management, UNSW Canberra at the Australian Defence Force Academy, Canberra BC 2610, Australia;3. State Key Laboratory for Estuarine and Coastal Research, East China Normal University, Shanghai 200062, China;4. Geological Survey of Jiangsu Province, Nanjing, Jiangsu, 210018, China |
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| Abstract: | A time domain method is presented for analyzing simultaneous measurements of pressure and the horizontal components of velocity obtained beneath irregular multidirectional wave fields. This new method differs from the usual linear directional analyses applied to PUV data in two important aspects. First, the essential nonlinearity of the measured waves is not sacrificed to achieve a solution. Therefore, predictions of sea surface elevation and directional kinematics throughout the water column accurately portray the actual nonlinear character of the waves. Second, the analysis method is `local' in that it can be applied to segments of PUV time series much shorter than an individual wave. The viability of the locally nonlinear methodology developed in this paper is proven by demonstrating agreement with higher-order theoretical steady waves. Predictions of sea surface elevation and wave kinematics are also made using actual measurements from PUV instruments at two ocean sites off the west coast of the United States. |
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