A joint distribution of significant wave height and characteristic surf parameter |
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| Authors: | Dag Myrhaug Sébastien Fouques |
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| Institution: | 1. Department of Marine Technology, Norwegian University of Science and Technology, NO-7491 Trondheim, Norway;2. Norwegian Marine Technology Research Institute, NO-7450 Trondheim, Norway |
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| Abstract: | The paper provides a joint distribution of significant wave height and characteristic surf parameter. The characteristic surf parameter is given by the ratio between the slope of a beach or a structure and the square root of the characteristic wave steepness in deep water defined in terms of the significant wave height and the spectral peak period. The characteristic surf parameter is used to characterize surf zone processes and is relevant for e.g. wave run-up on beaches and coastal structures. The paper presents statistical properties of the wave parameters as well as an example of results corresponding to typical field conditions. |
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| Keywords: | Significant wave height Characteristic surf parameter Joint distribution Return period contour lines Surf zone processes Design of coastal structures |
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