Alongshore fluid motions in the swash zone of a sandy and gravel beach |
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| Authors: | Martin J Austin Gerd Masselink Paul E Russell Ian L Turner Chris E Blenkinsopp |
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| Institution: | 1. School of Marine Science and Engineering, University of Plymouth, Drake Circus, Plymouth PL4 8AA, UK;2. Water Research Laboratory, School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of New South Wales, Sydney, Australia |
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| Abstract: | Field experiments were conducted on a low-gradient, high-energy sandy beach (Truc Vert, France) and a steep, low-energy gravel beach (Slapton, UK) to examine alongshore-directed currents within the swash zone. At Truc Vert, data were collected over 33 tidal cycles with offshore significant wave heights of 1–4 m and periods of 5–12 s. At Slapton data were collected during 12 tides with wave heights of 0.3–1 m and periods of 4–9 s. The swash motion was predominantly at infragravity frequencies at Truc Vert and incident frequencies at Slapton. |
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| Keywords: | Swash zone Longshore current Drag coefficient Sediment transport Field experiment |
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