Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone |
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| Authors: | IA Svendsen |
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| Institution: | Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, DE 19711U.S.A. |
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| Abstract: | The mass of water carried shoreward by the breaking waves in a surf zone will, in a two-dimensional situation, be compensated by a seaward return flow, the undertow. It is shown that the undertow is driven by the local difference between radiation stress and the set-up pressure gradient which only balance each other in average over the depth. Turbulent shear stresses are required to maintain a steady situation. Comparison with measurements confirms the theoretical results. |
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