| 三维极限波的产生方法及特性 |
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| 引用本文： | 柳淑学,洪起庸.三维极限波的产生方法及特性[J].海洋学报,2004,26(6):133-142. |
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| 作者姓名： | 柳淑学 洪起庸 |
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| 作者单位： | 1.大连理工大学, 海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室, 辽宁, 大连, 116024 |
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| 基金项目： | 国家自然科学基金资助项目(50379002)，韩国科技部国际合作项目. |
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| 摘 要： | 极限破碎波浪是造成海洋结构物破坏的主要因素之一,对极限波浪的产生方法和特性进行研究具有重要的工程意义.利用长波传播快、短波传播慢的原理,从理论上给出了产生三维极限波的方法,利用基于Boussinesq方程的数值模拟对该方法进行了验证,同时研究了中心频率、频率宽度和频谱形式等对极限波浪特性的影响,为该方法的进一步应用提出了建议.
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| 关 键 词： | 极限波 多向波 方向分布 |
| 文章编号： | 0253-4193(2004)06-0133-10 |
| 收稿时间： | 2002/5/17 0:00:00 |
| 修稿时间： | 2003/11/12 0:00:00 |
The generation method of three-dimensional focusing wave and its properties |
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| LIU Shu-xue and Hong Key-yong.The generation method of three-dimensional focusing wave and its properties[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica (in Chinese),2004,26(6):133-142. |
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| Authors: | LIU Shu-xue and Hong Key-yong |
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| Institution: | 1.State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China2.Korea Research Institute of Ships and Ocean Engineering, Daejon 305-343, Korea |
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| Abstract: | Extreme breaking waves are one of the key factors causing the damage of ocean engineering structures. So it is very meaningful to develop the theory for generating the extreme waves and to investigate the extreme wave characteristics. The method for generating three-dimensional focusing waves is proposed using the principal that waves propagate faster for longer waves and slower for shorter waves. Wave packet transformation is simulated by linear calculation and a numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations and the finite element method to verify the proposed method. The calculated results show that the proposed method can generate expected focusing waves. The effects of the associated wave parameters such as the center frequency, frequency width and the type of frequency spectrum on the focusing waves are also discussed. |
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| Keywords: | extreme waves multidirectional waves directional distribution |
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