| 礁面大糙率存在下孤立波传播变形及爬高实验研究 |
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| 引用本文： | 杨笑笑,姚宇,郭辉群,贾美军.礁面大糙率存在下孤立波传播变形及爬高实验研究[J].海洋学报,2021,43(3):24-30. |
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| 作者姓名： | 杨笑笑 姚宇 郭辉群 贾美军 |
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| 作者单位： | 1.长沙理工大学 水利工程学院，湖南 长沙 410114 |
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| 基金项目： | 国家自然科学基金(51979013,51679014);湖南省教育厅项目(18A116)。 |
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| 摘 要： | 本文采用圆柱体阵列来模拟珊瑚礁面的大糙率，通过波浪水槽实验研究礁面糙率对孤立波传播变形及岸滩爬高的影响。结果表明，粗糙礁面的存在显著削弱了礁坪上孤立波的首峰和礁后岸滩反射造成的次峰，同时降低了波浪在珊瑚礁面的传播速度；垂直于岸线方向沿礁相对波高随着入射波增大而减小，随着礁坪水深的增大而增大，粗糙礁面上波高沿礁的衰减更为显著；礁前斜坡的无量纲反射波高随无量纲入射波高的变化与礁坪水深有关，当入射波高足够大时其趋于常值，粗糙礁面略微增大了礁前斜坡的反射；无量纲透射波高和岸滩爬高随着无量纲入射波高的增大而减小，特别是礁坪水深较大时更为显著，粗糙礁面时的无量纲岸滩爬高相对于光滑礁面平均减小46%；通过回归分析得出了同时适合于光滑和粗糙礁面的预测孤立波岸滩爬高的经验关系式。
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| 关 键 词： | 珊瑚礁 孤立波 人工糙率 波浪爬高 |
| 收稿时间： | 2020-02-12 |
Laboratory study of solitary wave transformation and run-up over reefs with large reef roughness |
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| Yang Xiaoxiao,Yao Yu,Guo Huiqun,Jia Meijun.Laboratory study of solitary wave transformation and run-up over reefs with large reef roughness[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica (in Chinese),2021,43(3):24-30. |
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| Authors: | Yang Xiaoxiao Yao Yu Guo Huiqun Jia Meijun |
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| Institution: | 1.School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 410114, China2.Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China |
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| Abstract: | A series of laboratory experiments is carried out in a wave flume to study the influence of rough reef surface on solitary wave transformation and run-up over coral reefs.The cylinder array is used to model the reef surface with large roughness.The results show that the rough reef surface significantly reduces the leading solitary wave and the secondary wave due to beach-reef beach reflection,as well as the wave speed on the reef flat.The relative cross-shore wave height decreases with the increase of dimensionless incident wave height along the reef.It also increases with the increase of reef-flat wave level.The cross-shore wave height attenuation is more evident with the rough reef surface.The variation of dimensionless reflected wave height with the dimensionless incident wave height depends on the reef-flat wave level.The dimensionless reflected wave height approaches to a constant when the incident wave height is sufficient large.The rough reef surface slightly enhances the wave reflection from the fore-reef slope.The dimensionless transmitted wave height as well as wave run-up decline with the increasing dimensionless incident wave height,particularly for the large reef-flat water level.The dimensionless wave run-up on the back-reef beach with the rough reef surface reduces by an average of 46%compared to that with the smooth surface.An empirical formula is obtained by a regression analysis to predict the wave run-up with both smooth and rough reefs. |
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| Keywords: | coral reef solitary wave artificial roughness wave run-up |
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