| 波浪动力因素变化对沙质岸滩演变的影响 |
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| 引用本文： | 蒋昌波,伍志元,陈杰,刘静,肖桂振,杨武.波浪动力因素变化对沙质岸滩演变的影响[J].海洋学报,2015,37(3):106-113. |
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| 作者姓名： | 蒋昌波 伍志元 陈杰 刘静 肖桂振 杨武 |
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| 作者单位： | 1.长沙理工大学 水利工程学院, 湖南 长沙 410004;水沙科学与水灾害防治湖南省重点实验室, 湖南 长沙 410004 |
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| 基金项目： | 国家自然科学基金(51239001,51179015,51409022);高等学校博士学科点专项科研基金新教师类资助课题(20124316120003);港口航道泥沙工程交通行业重点实验室开放基金项目。 |
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| 摘 要： | 通过波浪水槽实验,对海平面变化造成的波浪动力因素改变引起的沙质岸滩形态响应开展机理性研究。实验采用1∶10单一沙质斜坡概化岸滩,利用3种不同实验水深模拟海平面变化,考虑椭圆余弦波、非规则波、规则波和孤立波4种类型波浪作用。实验对波浪在斜坡上的传播变形、破碎、上爬和回落过程的波高及波浪作用后的岸滩地形进行了测量。实验结果表明,椭圆余弦波、规则波和非规则波作用下,平衡岸滩呈现出滩肩形态,孤立波作用下则呈沙坝形态。海平面上升造成波浪动力增强,沙质岸滩平衡剖面形状基本保持不变向岸平移,槽谷、滩肩、沙坝位置以及岸线蚀退距离,均呈现出良好规律性。
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| 关 键 词： | 岸滩演变 波浪 海平面上升 分形 Bruun法则 |
| 收稿时间： | 2014/2/18 0:00:00 |
Effects of wave dynamic factors on the evolution of sandy beach |
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| Jiang Changbo,Wu Zhiyuan,Chen Jie,Liu Jing,Xiao Guizhen and Yang Wu.Effects of wave dynamic factors on the evolution of sandy beach[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica (in Chinese),2015,37(3):106-113. |
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| Authors: | Jiang Changbo Wu Zhiyuan Chen Jie Liu Jing Xiao Guizhen and Yang Wu |
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| Institution: | 1.School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 410004, China;Hu'nan Province Key Laboratory of Water, Sediment Sciences & Flood Hazard Prevention, Changsha 410004, China2.School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 410004, China; |
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| Abstract: | A set of 2D wave flume experiments on a sandy beach were performed to investigate the morphological response of sandy beach to the wave dynamic factors causing sea-level changes. The initial 1/10 simplex beach slope was exposed to the following different wave actions,i.e.,cnoidal waves,irregular waves,regular waves and solitary waves actions,and three different experimental water depths were used to simulate the sea-level change. This study measured a series of free surface elevations for different waves at the time of wave propagation,wave breaking,uprush and backwash,and cross-shore beach profiles after undergoing wave actions. The results showed that the equilibrium beach profile showed wide high berm topography after undergoing cnoidal waves,irregular waves and regular waves,and yet it became sandbar form topography after undergoing solitary wave action. The equilibrium profile shapes were essentially unchanged but moved shoreward under sea-level rise,and the position of berm,trough,sandbar and the retrograde distance of shoreline show good correlations under the four different wave actions. |
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| Keywords: | beach profile evolution wave sea-level rise fractal method Bruun rule |
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