| 珊瑚礁礁坪宽度对波浪传播变形及增水影响的实验研究 |
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| 引用本文： | 姚宇,何天城,唐政江,蒋昌波.珊瑚礁礁坪宽度对波浪传播变形及增水影响的实验研究[J].热带海洋学报,2019,38(2):13-19. |
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| 作者姓名： | 姚宇 何天城 唐政江 蒋昌波 |
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| 作者单位： | 1. 河海大学, 海岸灾害及防护教育部重点实验室, 江苏 南京 2100982. 长沙理工大学水利工程学院, 湖南 长沙 4100043. 水沙科学与水灾害防治湖南省重点实验室, 湖南 长沙 410004 |
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| 基金项目： | 国家自然科学基金(51679014);湖南省科技计划(2017RS3035);河海大学海岸灾害及防护教育部重点实验室开放研究基金(201602) |
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| 摘 要： | 通过在波浪水槽中进行一系列物理模型实验, 研究珊瑚礁礁坪宽度变化对珊瑚礁海岸附近波浪传播变形及礁坪上波浪增水的影响。物理实验采用理想化的珊瑚礁模型, 测试了3种礁坪宽度下的一系列不规则波工况。实验结果分析表明: 波浪沿礁传播过程中, 短波持续衰减; 低频长波波高沿礁逐渐增大, 直到海岸线附近达到最大; 随着礁坪宽度的增加, 海岸线附近的短波波高呈下降趋势, 低频长波波高的变化规律不显著; 礁坪上的波浪增水受礁坪宽度变化的影响不明显; 通过对海岸线附近的波浪进行频谱分析发现, 礁坪上低频长波的运动存在着一阶共振模式, 且共振放大效应强度受礁坪水深、入射波峰周期和礁坪宽度共同影响。
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| 关 键 词： | 低频长波 波浪增水 礁坪宽度 礁坪共振 |
| 收稿时间： | 2018-07-29 |
| 修稿时间： | 2018-11-05 |
Laboratory study on the effect of varying reef-flat width on wave transformation and wave-induced setup |
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| Yu YAO,Tiancheng HE,Zhengjiang TANG,Changbo JIANG.Laboratory study on the effect of varying reef-flat width on wave transformation and wave-induced setup[J].Journal of Tropical Oceanography,2019,38(2):13-19. |
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| Authors: | Yu YAO Tiancheng HE Zhengjiang TANG Changbo JIANG |
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| Institution: | 1. Key Laboratory of Coastal Disasters and Defense of Ministry of Education, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China2. School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 410004, China;3. Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha 410004, China |
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| Abstract: | A series of laboratory experiments were carried out in a wave flume to study the influences of different reef-flat widths on wave transformation over reef coasts as well as wave-induced setup on reef flats. A series of incident irregular wave conditions were tested based on the idealized reef model with three reef-flat widths. Results show that as waves propagate across the reef, the swell height decays all the way, whereas the infragravity wave height increases gradually along the reef and reaches the maximum at the shoreline. Near the shoreline, the swell height decreases with increasing reef-flat width, but the variation of infragravity wave height with the reef-flat width is not obvious. The effect of varying reef-flat width on wave-induced setup over the reef flat is insignificant. The first resonant mode is identified on reef flat for the infragravity waves, and the level of resonant amplification near the shoreline is determined by the combined effect of reef-flat water depth, incident peak wave period and reef-flat width. |
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| Keywords: | infragravity wave wave-induced setup reef-flat width reef-flat resonance |
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