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Hyperbolic Mild Slope Equations with Inclusion of Amplitude Dispersion Effect: Regular Waves
引用本文:金红,邹志利.Hyperbolic Mild Slope Equations with Inclusion of Amplitude Dispersion Effect: Regular Waves[J].中国海洋工程,2008,22(3):431-444.
作者姓名:金红  邹志利
作者单位:State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology
基金项目:国家自然科学基金,教育部长江学者和创新团队发展计划,高等学校博士学科点专项科研项目
摘    要:A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model' s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.

关 键 词:缓坡  方程解  双曲线模式  非线性波  破碎波

Hyperbolic Mild Slope Equations with Inclusion of Amplitude Dispersion Effect: Regular Waves
JIN Hong,ZOU Zhi-li.Hyperbolic Mild Slope Equations with Inclusion of Amplitude Dispersion Effect: Regular Waves[J].China Ocean Engineering,2008,22(3):431-444.
Authors:JIN Hong  ZOU Zhi-li
Institution:State Key Laboratory of Coaztal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China
Abstract:A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved numerically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model's performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.
Keywords:mild slope equation  hyperbolic model  nonlinear waves  breaking waves
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