A Whitecap Coverage Model Based on the Surface Slope For Criterion of Wave Breaking |
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| Authors: | Xu Delun Yu Dingyong and Lu Hongmin Professor Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of Qindao Qingdao Associate Professor Engineering School Ocean University of Qindao Qingdao Senior Engineer Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao |
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| Institution: | Xu Delun,Yu Dingyong and Lu Hongmin Professor,Physical Oceanography Laboratory,Ocean University of Qindao,Qingdao 266003 Associate Professor,Engineering School,Ocean University of Qindao,Qingdao 266003 Senior Engineer,Physical Oceanography Laboratory,Ocean University of Qingdao,Qingdao 266003 |
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| Abstract: | Using the limit surface slope as a criterion of wave breaking, a simple model for estimating the spatial fraction of breaking surface of sea at an instant, which is regarded as the whitecap coverge in this paper, is analytically derived from the probability density of surface slope based on Gaussian statistics. The resulting fraction is found depending on the fourth moment of wave spectum, m4, as well as the critical threshold of surface slope. By expressing the fourth moment in terms of the Neumann spectrum, a formula linking the fraction and wind speed for fully developed sea states is obtianed. Another formula relating the fraction to both wind speed and fetch (or duration) is achieved by expressing m4 in terms of the Krylov spectrum and applying the empirical relationships used in the SMB ocean wave predicting technique. A comparison between these results and the field data of whitecap coverage collected by Monahan and O'Muircheartuigh shows an encouraging agreement. |
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| Keywords: | whitecap coverage criterion of wave breaking wind speed wind fetch wind duration fully developed sea state fetch-limited sea state |
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