Breaking of Solitary Waves on Uniform Slopes |
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| Authors: | CHOU Chung-Ren OUYANG Kwan Professor |
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| Institution: | CHOU Chung-Ren OUYANG Kwan
Professor,Department of Harbor and River Engineering,Taiwan Ocean University,Keelung,China
Graduate Student,Department of Harbor and River Engineering,Taiwan Ocean Unversity,Keelung,China |
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| Abstract: | The propagation, shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on mild slopes are simulated by boundary element method. In this paper, the criterion of breaking solitary waves on mild slopes is discussed. The criterion is that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave celerity equals one. However, the case that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave celerity is below one but the front face of wave profile becomes vertical is also considered as a breaking criterion. According to the above criteria, the breaking index for slopes 1:10 to 1:25 is studied. The result is compared to other researchers' . The deformation of solitary waves on slopes is discussed and the distribution of fluid velocities at breaking is shown. |
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| Keywords: | breaking wave solitary wave distribution of fluid velocity boundary element |
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