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A Boussinesq Equation-Based Model for Nearshore Wave Breaking
作者姓名:余建星  张伟  王广东  杨树清
作者单位:[1]SchoolofConstruction,TianjinUniversity,Tianjin300072,China [2]SchoolofConstruction,TianjinUniversity,Tianjin300072,China [3]NanyangTechnologicalUniversity,Singapore639798
基金项目:ThisstudywassupportedbytheNationalNaturalScienceFoundationofChina (GrantNo .5 99790 18)
摘    要:Based on the wave breaking model by Li and Wang (1999), this work is to apply Dally‘ s analytical solution to the wave-height decay instead of the empirical and semi-empirical hypotheses of wave-height distribution within the wave breaking zone. This enhances the applicability of the model. Computational results of shoaling, location of wave breaking, wave-height decay after wave breaking, set-down and set-up for incident regular waves are shown to have good agreement with experimental and field data.

关 键 词:波动中断  数值模型  粘性紊流  布松方程  能量分散

A Boussinesq Equation-Based Model for Nearshore Wave Breaking
YU Jian-xing ,a,ZHANG Wei a,WANG Guang-dong a and Shu-qing YANG a,b a School of Construction,Tianjin University,Tianjin ,China b Nanyang Technological University,Singapore.A Boussinesq Equation-Based Model for Nearshore Wave Breaking[J].China Ocean Engineering,2004,18(2):315-320.
Authors:YU Jian-xing  a  ZHANG Wei a  WANG Guang-dong a and Shu-qing YANG a  b a School of Construction  Tianjin University  Tianjin  China b Nanyang Technological University  Singapore
Institution:YU Jian-xing 1,a,ZHANG Wei a,WANG Guang-dong a and Shu-qing YANG a,b a School of Construction,Tianjin University,Tianjin 300072,China b Nanyang Technological University,Singapore 639798
Abstract:Based on the wave breaking model by Li and Wang (1999), this work is to apply Dally's analytical solution to the wave-height decay instead of the empirical and semi-empirical hypotheses of wave-height distribution within the wave breaking zone. This enhances the applicability of the model. Computational results of shoaling, location of wave breaking, wave-height decay after wave breaking, set-down and set-up for incident regular waves are shown to have good agreement with experimental and field data.
Keywords:wave breaking  numerical model  Boussinesq equation  eddy viscosity
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