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礁坪上波浪传播的数值模拟
引用本文:何栋彬,房克照,孙家文,刘忠波.礁坪上波浪传播的数值模拟[J].海洋通报,2018(2):129-138.
作者姓名:何栋彬  房克照  孙家文  刘忠波
作者单位:大连理工大学海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室DUT-UWA海洋工程联合研究中心;国家海洋环境监测中心;大连海事大学交通运输管理学院
基金项目:国家自然科学基金(51579034);辽宁省教育厅重点实验室基础研究项目(LZ2015013)
摘    要:本文基于具备间断捕捉能力的二阶全非线性Boussinesq数值模型,对规则波和随机波在礁坪地形上的传播变形进行了数值模拟。该模型采用高阶有限体积法和有限差分方法求解守恒格式的控制方程,将波浪破碎视为间断,同时采用静态重构技术处理了海岸动边界问题。重点针对礁坪上波浪传播过程中的波高空间分布和沿程衰减,礁坪上的平均水位变化,以及波浪能量频谱的移动和空间差异等典型水动力现象开展数值计算。将数值结果与实验结果对比,两者吻合情况良好,验证了模型具有良好的稳定性,具备模拟破碎波浪和海-岸动边界的能力,能较为准确地模拟波浪在礁坪地形上的传播过程中发生的各种水动力现象。

关 键 词:Boussinesq  方程  礁坪  低频波浪  波浪破碎  数值模拟
收稿时间:2017/2/20 0:00:00
修稿时间:2017/5/3 0:00:00

Simulation of wave propagation over reef flats
HE Dong-bin,FANG Ke-zhao,SUN Jia-wen and LIU Zhong-bo.Simulation of wave propagation over reef flats[J].Marine Science Bulletin,2018(2):129-138.
Authors:HE Dong-bin  FANG Ke-zhao  SUN Jia-wen and LIU Zhong-bo
Institution:The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China,The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China,The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China;National Marine Environmental Monitoring Center, State Oceanic Administration, Dalian 116023, China; and Transportation Management College,Dalian Maritime University, Dalian, 116026, China
Abstract:This paper describes the simulation of propagation and deformation of regular wave and irregular wave over reef flats, with a shock-capturing numerical model based on second-order fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations. A hybrid highorder finite-volume and finite-difference method is used to solve conservative governing equations. Wave breaking is treated as shock waves and the hydrostatic construction technique is used for moving shoreline. In this paper, research on wave height spatial distribution, mean water level changes over reef flat and wave energy spectrum shifts was presented. The numerical results are in close agreement with the physical model experimental results, showing that the numerical model used in this paper has good stability, excellent shock-capturing ability and can treat wet-dry moving boundary. Therefore, this model can well simulate hydrodynamics performance in the process of wave propagation over reef flats.
Keywords:Boussinesq equations  reef flat  infragravity waves  wave breaking  numerical simulation
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