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Run-up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a plane beach |
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| Authors: | I I Didenkulova E N Pelinovsky O I Didenkulov |
| Institution: | 1. Alekseev State Technical University, Nizhni Novgorod, 603950, Russia 2. Institute of Cybernetics at Tallinn University of Technology, Tallinn, 12618, Estonia 3. Higher School of Economics, National Research University, Nizhni Novgorod, 603155, Russia 4. Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, Nizhni Novgorod, 603950, Russia |
| Abstract: | We study the run-up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a beach in the case of composite bottom topography: a plane sloping beach transforms into a region of constant depth. We confirm that nonlinear wave deformation of positive polarity (wave crest) resulting in an increase in the wave steepness leads to a significant increase in the run-up height. It is shown that nonlinear effects are most strongly pronounced for the run-up of a wave with negative polarity (wave trough). In the latter case, the run-up height of such waves increases with their steepness and can exceed the amplitude of the incident wave. |
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