共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 46 毫秒
1.
考虑底摩擦的波浪折射计算 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
本文用考虑底摩擦的折射模式计算了浅水中波高和波向分布。作为一个例子,根据不同的摩擦系数和不同的边界条件计算了一种简单海底地形的折射系数、衰减系数和折射角,所得结果与不考虑底摩擦的折射模式结果进行比较,发展它们之间存在一些差异,表明在浅水中底摩擦对波高有一定影响。 相似文献
2.
CHEN Yang SUN Jingshi
Associate Professor Tianjin Research Institute of Water Transport Engineering Tianjin P. R. China.
Professor Tianjin Research Institute of Water Transport Engineering Tianjin P. R. China. 《中国海洋工程》1999,(2)
-By use of the parabolic equation of numerical simulation of wave which is suitable forlarge-angle propagation and Crank-Nicolson differential method,the wave field at the Kemema Rivermouth has been studied for analysis of sediment movement in the area.In order to reflect wave energy lossaccurately,the Bretchneider-Reid formula is quoted and the friction coefficient in the formula is discussedin this paper.The calculation results indicate that the wave becomes a little damped at the mouth ofKemena River influenced by the topography and bottom friction,and the wave at the east beach is higherthan that at the west beach,because the east beach extends out. 相似文献
3.
Parabolic Approximation of the Weakly Nonlinear Mild Slope Equation with Bottom Friction 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This paper presents a refined parabolic approximation model of the mild slope equation to simu-late the combination of water wave refraction and diffraction in the large coastal region.The bottom frictionand weakly nonlinear term are included in the model.The difference equation is established with the Crank-Nicolson scheme.The numerical test shows that some numerical prediction results will be inaccurate in com-plicated topography without considering weak nonlinearity;the bottom friction will make wave height damp-ing and it can not be neglected for calculation of wave field in large areas. 相似文献
4.
In this paper a refraction-diffraction model with friction is used to compute wave characteristics in a region near a certain port. Comparing with the results from refraction model, and with the data observed during a typhoon in 1985, it is found that the characteristics from the refraction-diffraction model with friction are reasonable, and that the results are in rather good agreement with observations. Thus it can be concluded that the model is effective for computing coastal wave characteristics over complicated bottom topography. 相似文献
5.
Feng Weibing Hong Guangwen
Ph. D Student Hohai University Nanjing .
Professor Hohai University Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1995,(1)
An analytic-numerical solution of wave transformation in shoaling water is presented in this paper. The analytical expression for wave heights along the wave rays is derived in consideration of the combined effect of water depth shoaling, the wave refraction and the sea bottom friction. The wave rays (orthogonals) are calculated by a fourth order Runge-Kutta algorithm and the wave crest lines are computed by an iteration procedure. The numerical results are compared with analytical solution for a special case of parallel- straight contour shore and field data, and comparisons show that the proposed mathematical model and computation method are very useful and convenient for engineering application. 相似文献
6.
LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式是一种第三代海浪数值模式，通过求解波数谱平衡方程，并考虑风输入、波浪破碎耗散、底摩擦耗散、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用等源函数，模拟波数空间下的海浪方向谱，并依此获得海浪的波高、周期和平均波向。该模式的一个显著特点是采用特征线嵌入格式求解海浪的传播。在进行浅水区域的海浪模拟时，特征线嵌入格式的数值计算方案是否合理对海浪数值模拟结果产生直接的影响。为此LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式提出了一种新的特征线混合数值计算格式，并应用于浅水海浪数值模拟。结果表明，采用该计算方法，能够使数值模拟结果与实测结果很好符合。 相似文献
7.
The systems of diurnal tidal wave (K1) and semi-diurnal tidal wave (M2) in the Beibu Gulf are studied with numerical method. Also discussed in this paper are the influences of the Qiongzhou Strait, the bottom friction term, the horizontal turbulent friction term and the inertial (acceleration) term in dynamic equations on the tidal system. The calculated results show that there is an independent left-handed tidal system in the diurnal tidal wave of the gulf, the amphidromic point being roughly located at Taigeli Island; that the semi-diurnal wave constitutes no tidal system, generating a small tidal range in the region near Feizhulong Islands; and that the influence of the tidal wave from the strait on the tidal system of the K1 is not evident, but its effect on the system of the M2 component tide is quite obvious. The bottom friction term, the horizontal turbulent friction term, and the inertial term have effects upon the tidal system in the gulf. 相似文献
8.
Wave-Current Propagation over a Frictional Topography 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
ZUO Qihua DING Bingcan Prof. Senior Engineer River Harbour Department Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute 《中国海洋工程》1998,(4)
—In this paper the parabolic approximation model based on mild-slope equation is used tostudy wave propagation over a slowly varying and frictional topography under wave-current interaction.A governing equation considering the friction effects is derived by the authors for the first time.A simpli-fied form for the rate of wave energy dissipation is presented on the basis of the wave-current action conser-vation equation and the bottom friction model given by Yoo and O＇connor(1987).Examples reveal thatthe present computational method can be used for the calculation of wave elements for actual engineeringprojects with large water areas. 相似文献
9.
Since the mild-slope equation was derived by Berkhoff (1972),the researchers considered various mechanism to simplify and improve the equation,which has been widely used for coastal wave field calculation.Recently,some scholars applied the mild-slope equation in simulating the tidal motion,which proves that the equation is capable to calculate the tide in actual terrain.But in their studies,they made a lot of simplifications,and did not consider the effects of Coriolis force and bottom friction on tidal wave.In this paper,the first-order linear mild-slope equations are deduced from Kirby mild-slope equation including wave and current interaction.Then,referring to the method of wave equations’ modification,the Coriolis force and bottom friction term are considered,and the effects of which have been performed with the radial sand ridges topography.Finally,the results show that the modified mild-slope equation can be used to simulate tidal motion,and the calculations agree well with the measurements,thus the applicability and validity of the mild-slope equation on tidal simulation are further proved. 相似文献
10.
基于海浪模式WAVEWATCH Ⅲ模拟北太平洋海浪要素,结合NDBC浮标资料进行验证,发现模拟出的有效波高与浮标测量值具有很好的一致性。基于改进型白冠覆盖率耗散模型,利用海浪模式模拟出的有效波高、有效波周期和摩擦速度等海浪要素计算出单位面积水柱内因海浪破碎产生的湍动能通量。通过改变环流模式sbPOM湍动能方程的上边界条件,引入海浪破碎产生的湍动能通量,并探究海浪破碎对北太平洋海表面温度模拟的影响。研究表明,由于海浪破碎的引入,环流模式sbPOM对北太平洋海表面温度模拟的准确程度得到提升,这为大气模式提供一个准确的北太平洋下边界条件具有重要意义。 相似文献
11.
Introduction of a new friction routine into the SWAN model that evaluates roughness due to bedform and sediment size changes 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Grant Alexander Smith Alexander V. Babanin Peter Riedel I.R. Young Stephen Oliver Graeme Hubbert 《Coastal Engineering》2011
The significant loss of wave energy due to seabed interaction in finite depths is a known effect and bottom friction terms are used in the wave models to account for this dissipation. In this paper, a new bottom-interaction function is tested by means of the SWAN model, based on measurements at two field sites, Lake George and Lakes Entrance, both in Australia. The function accounts for dependence of the friction on the formation process of bottom ripples and on the grain size of the sediment. The overall improvement of the model prediction both for the wave height and wave period is demonstrated. 相似文献
12.
Fabrice Ardhuin 《Journal of Oceanography》2006,62(6):917-922
In a recent paper, Kenyon (2004) proposed that the wave-induced energy flux is generally not conserved, and that shoaling
waves cause a mean force and torque on the bottom. That force was equated to the divergence of the wave momentum flux estimated
from the assumption that the wave-induced mass flux is conserved. This assumption and conclusions are contrary to a wide body
of observations and theory. Most importantly, waves propagate in water, so that the momentum balance generally involves the
mean water flow. Although the expression for the non-hydrostatic bottom force given by Kenyon is not supported by observations,
a consistent review of existing theory shows that a smaller mean wave-induced force must be present in cases with bottom friction
or wave reflection. That force exactly balances the change in wave momentum flux due to bottom friction and the exchange of
wave momentum between incident and reflected wave components. The remainder of the wave momentum flux divergence, due to shoaling
or wave breaking, is compensated by the mean flow, with a balance involving hydrostatic pressure forces that arise from a
change in mean surface elevation that is very well verified by observations. 相似文献
13.
In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone. 相似文献
14.
A second-order solution of waves passing porous structures 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Only linear theoretical analyses of wave interaction with porous structures exist, mainly due to both the complexities of flows inside the porous medium, and the mathematical inhomogeneous boundary-value problem. Since the hydrodynamic flow mechanism is non-linear a non-linear analysis can better describe the characteristic nature of the problem. In this paper, a generalized potential theory is used to describe both the internal and external water flows. An implicit non-linear model is used to describe flow mechanism inside the porous medium. The perturbation method is used to solve the problem analytically up to the second order. The second-order solution is decomposed into time-dependent and time-independent parts. And, correspondingly, the inhomogeneous boundary-value problems are solved analytically. In the analysis, the second-order characteristics of the problem, including the dispersion equation, wave numbers and friction coefficient, as well as wave reflection and transmission, are investigated in detail. It is shown that the mode swapping of the second-order wave numbers only occurs among the evanescent modes. The second-order friction effects become important in shallow-water cases. The comparison of the results of present theory with experimental results shows that the second-order solution is good correction to the linear theory. 相似文献
15.
Recent experimental results have shown that the presence of a steady current can significantly reduce the energy of transmitted waves. In this paper, a theory is developed to study the wave scattering by single or double vertical slotted barriers in the presence of a weak uniform current. The quasi-linear theory is based on an eigenfunction expansion method. Comparisons between theory and existing experimental results for both single slotted barrier and double slotted barriers show satisfactory agreements. In consideration of wave propagation in a weak current it is found that the friction factor used to characterize the head loss at the slotted barrier depends on both the geometry of the slotted barrier and the strength of the steady current. 相似文献
16.
The bottom friction beneath random waves is predicted taking into account the effect of seepage flow. This is achieved by using wave friction factors for rough turbulent, smooth turbulent and laminar flow valid for regular waves together with a modified Shields parameter which includes the effect of seepage flow. Examples using data typical to field conditions are included to illustrate the approach. The analytical results can be used to make assessment of seepage effects on the bottom friction based on available wave statistics. Generally, it is recommended that a stochastic approach should be used rather than using the rms values in an otherwise deterministic approach. 相似文献
17.
基于一维阻尼潮波传播方程解析解,从求解数值格式及Heuristic稳定性分析方面,讨论了数值解的精度、计算耗时和摩阻系数选取等问题。研究结果表明:1)Courant数小于1时,潮波方程显格式解的精度略高于隐格式解,计算耗时少于隐格式解;2)为减少计算耗时,潮波方程的隐格式解允许较大的时间步长,但解的精度有所降低,须通过减小底床摩阻系数以保证计算精度;3)隐格式解摩阻系数的选取与Courant数有关,Courant数越大,摩阻系数的选取值比实际值越小,通过理论分析结合数值试验得到了相应的关系式。这些研究结论对实际海域的潮波传播的数值模拟具有重要的应用价值。 相似文献
18.
Hurricane Ike (2008), with its associated storm surge, caused extensive damage across parts of the northwestern Gulf Coast when it made landfall in the late hours of September 12, 2008 along the upper Texas coast at the upper end of Category 2 intensity. An extensive instrumentation effort allowed the collection of both nearshore and inland wave and water level data as Hurricane Ike passed the Louisiana coast and made landfall in Texas. This article presents the results of a validation effort for the STWAVE model and the bottom friction coefficients applied in the model with comparisons to the Hurricane Ike measured wave data. Examination of STWAVE model results as contour plots and time series of wave height and period; wave spectra at selected time steps and scatter plots of simulated versus modeled wave results allow evaluation of the model performance. STWAVE model results indicate good agreement with the measured nearshore wave data for an open water Manning ‘n’ bottom friction coefficient equal to 0.03 s/m0.33. STWAVE model results indicate good agreement with the measured inshore wave data with Manning ‘n’ bottom friction coefficients equal to values derived from land classification data and applied in the ADCIRC model. 相似文献
19.
Measurements of local values of the skin friction have been made at many points along the surface of representative wind wave crests in a wind wave tunnel, by use of the distortion of hydrogen-bubble lines. The results obtained at 2.85-m fetch under 6.2 m s–1 mean wind speed show that the intensity of the skin friction varies greatly along the surface of wind waves as a function of the phase angle. It increases rather continuously at the windward surface toward the crest, attains a value of about 12 dyn cm–2 near the crest, decreases suddenly just past the crest, and the value at the lee surface is substantially zero Values of the skin friction thus determined along the representative wind waves give an average value of 3.6 dyn cm–2, rather exceeding the overall stress value of 3.0 dyn cm–2, which has been estimated from the wind profile. The results are interpreted as that the skin friction bears most of the shearing stress of wind, and that it exerts most intensively around the representative wave crests at their windward faces. 相似文献