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1.
Deposits of late‐Holocene beach sand buried conifer forests episodically emerge on beaches of the Oregon coast. Simultaneously, sand dunes buried late‐Holocene forests growing on marine terraces landward of the beaches. Dune ramps, up to 60 m in elevation, connected the beach and dune deposits. The average age of wood samples from stumps rooted on the shore platforms is 3·07 ± 1·45 ka. The average age of wood and charcoal samples embedded in forest soil on the marine terraces is 3·27 ± 1·46 ka. Between 1994 and 2006, winter storm waves exposed more than 4·5 km2 of late‐Holocene forest soil on shore platforms at 19 localities. Rooted stumps without soil were uncovered at an additional 14 localities. Once exposed, wave action eroded the soil rapidly (one to two years). The intact forest soil and roots on the shore platforms must have been nearly continuously buried, protected and preserved prior to recent exposure. The late‐Holocene buried forest provides the basis for a conceptual model of coastal evolution. A three stage reversal of erosion and sand supply must have occurred: (1) wave erosion switched to seaward advancement of forests, (2) forest growth and soil development switched to burial beneath beach and dune sand and (3) burial and preservation switched to wave erosion, truncation of dune ramps and landward retreat of sea cliffs. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
The Hulunbuir dune field (HLB) is situated near the northern limit of the East Asian summer monsoon (EASM), and vulnerable to climate change. The aeolian sand–paleosol sequences of this region are crucial for understanding the past landform processes in response to climate change, but not yet understood well due to chronological controversies. Here, we presented 20 optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) ages from five aeolian sand–paleosol profiles in the HLB, and reconstructed the aeolian landform processes since 18 ka. The findings of this study suggested that the HLB was probably dominated by mobile dunes before 18 ka, as 10 out of 11 aeolian samples were dated to 18–12 ka. Two strong sandy paleosol layers were found and dated to ∼9 ka and 5–0.5 ka, indicating that strong in situ pedogenic process on the accumulative sand could occur during the Holocene. The OSL ages of samples near the top of three profiles were >9.5 ka, indicating two possible surface processes. First, the land surface was stable since 9.5 ka after stabilization, with no accumulation or erosion. Alternatively, the surface could have been erosive with the eroded sediments feeding downwind active dunes. The latter explanation is consistent with the current local landforms, which has widespread blowout pits, indicators of strong wind erosion. We emphasized that the OSL age of a sand layer sample in fossil dunes implied the onset of mobile dune stabilization, not the age of dune activity, as previously stated.  相似文献   

3.
Bacterial pathogens in coastal sediments may pose a health risk to users of beaches. Although recent work shows that beach sands harbor both indicator bacteria and potential pathogens, it is neither known how deep within beach sands the organisms may persist nor if they may be exposed during natural physical processes. In this study, sand cores of approximately 100 cm depth were collected at three sites across the beach face in Kitty Hawk, North Carolina, before, during, and after large waves from an offshore hurricane. The presence of DNA from the fecal indicator bacterium Enterococci was detected in subsamples at different depths within the cores by PCR amplification. Erosion and accretion of beach sand at the three sites were also determined for each sampling day. The results indicate that ocean beach sands with persisting enterococci signals could be exposed and redistributed when wind, waves, and currents cause beach erosion or accretion.  相似文献   

4.
This paper deals with the effect of rainfall on the process of wind erosion of beach sands and presents results from both field and wind tunnel experiments. Although sediment transport by splash is of secondary importance on coastal dunes, splash–saltation processes can move sediments in conditions where no motion is predicted by aeolian processes. The effect of raindrop impact on the movement of soil particles by wind was measured on a sand beach plain using an acoustic sediment sampler. In general, an increase of particle movement by wind at the sensor heights was observed during rainfall. Rainfall also affected the wind erosion process during and after rain by changing the cohesive conditions of the surface. The influence of the surface moisture content on the initiation of wind erosion and on the vertical distribution of transported sand particles was studied in a wind tunnel. Moisture significantly increased threshold wind velocities for the initiation of sediment transport and modified vertical sediment profiles.  相似文献   

5.
In aeolian sand sheets the interaction between aeolian and subaqueous processes is considered one of the principal factors that controls this depositional environment. To examine the role played by the subaqueous processes on the construction and accumulation of sand sheets, surface deposits and subsurface sedimentary sections of a currently active aeolian sand sheet, located in the Upper Tulum Valley (Argentina), have been examined. On the sand sheet surface, airflows enable the construction of nabkhas, wind‐rippled mantles (flattened accumulations of sand forming wind ripples), megaripples, and small transverse dunes. Subaqueous deposits consist of sandy current ripples covered by muddy laminae. The latter are generated by annual widespread but low‐energy floods that emanate from the nearby mountains in the aftermath of episodes of heavy precipitations. Deposits of subaqueous origin constitute 5% of the accumulated sand sheet thickness. The construction of the sand sheet is controlled by meteorological seasonal changes: the source area, the San Juan river alluvial fan, receives sediment by thaw‐waters in spring–summer; in fall–winter, when the water table lowers in the alluvial fan, the sediment is available for aeolian transport and construction of the sand sheet area. The flood events play an important role in enabling sand sheet accumulation: the muddy laminae serve to protect the underlying deposits from aeolian winnowing. Incipient cement of gypsum on the sand and vegetation cover acts as an additional stabilizing agent that promotes accumulation. Episodic and alternating events of erosion and sedimentation are considered the main reason for the absence of soils and palaeosols. Results from this study have enabled the development of a generic model with which to account for: (i) the influence of contemporaneous subaqueous processes on the construction and accumulation in recent and ancient sand sheets; and (ii) the absence of developed soils in this unstable topographic surface. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Lateral migration of linear dunes in the Strzelecki desert,Australia   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
Linear dunes in the Strzelecki Desert trend roughly south-north. Sand transport, which is toward the NNE, has caused the dunes to migrate eastward while they extend or migrate northward. Eastward lateral migration is evidenced by: (1) asymmetrical shape of the dunes; east-facing slopes are several times as steep as west-facing slopes; (2) asymmetrical accumulation of loose recently transported sand (relatively abundant on east-facing slopes); (3) asymmetrical outcropping of older semiconsolidated aeolian sand on the dune surface (more abundant on west-facing slopes); and (4) east-dipping foreset beds that underly the west-facing flanks of some dunes. Dunes in the Strzelecki Desert are still active in the sense that sand is transported along and across many dune crests. However, the dunes are composed primarily of Pleistocene strata, indicating that the trend of the dunes was established before the Holocene. The obliquity of the dunes to the transport direction is not merely an aberration of the wind regime of the last few decades. Preferential accumulation of sand on east-facing flanks indicates that the dunes migrated eastward several metres during the Holocene. Moreover, the west-facing flanks of some dunes have experienced a minimum of tens of metres of erosion. This asymmetric erosion and deposition were caused by dune obliquity and lateral migration that may have begun as early as the Pleistocene. Dunes in the Strzelecki Desert and in the adjacent Simpson Desert display a variety of grossly different internal structures. Computer graphics experiments demonstrate that many of these differences in structure can be explained by different angles of climb of the dunes.  相似文献   

7.
Several previous attempts have been made to explain the apparent poor development of coastal dunes in the humid tropics in terms of lack of wind energy, failure of sand supply to the shoreline, excessive climatic wetness, salt crust formation on beaches, and the character of tropical back-beach vegetation. However, recent published reports indicate that coastal dune occurrences are more common in the humid tropics than was formerly thought, throwing suspicion on the idea that environmental conditions militate against dune formation in these areas as a whole. Evidence from the humid tropical sector of the North Queensland coast suggests that the poor development of dunes in this area primarily reflects poor sediment sorting in the beach and nearshore zone and low wind energy at the shoreline due to the nature of the coastal orientation and physiography in relation to the prevailing southeasterly winds. These limiting factors are not unique to humid tropical climates.  相似文献   

8.
A sand ridge field of 22 470 km2 consists of fine sands and silts originally from the old Changjiang River sediment during the late Pleistocene period. Late Holocene sand stratum with its well-preserved larmnary bedding of more clay particles reflects the influence from the Yellow River. There are three genetic types of morphology of sand ridge field as follows: (i) reformed alluvial sandy bodies and old river valleys, located in the central and southern parts, formed from the end of Pleistocene to the present. (ii) Radiative current ridges and patrimonal valley type, located in the northeastern part, formed during the early or middle Holocene time. (iii) Eroded-depositional sandy bodies in the north and outer parts, and erosional trough in the north formed since the middle Holocene transgression. The sand ridge field has a periodic nature of developing processes: the period of sediment accumulation by rivers during cold epoch with low sea level and the period of erosional formation by tidal currents during warm epoch of transgression. The river-sea interactive process in the area is closely related to the climate change; the rising and falling of the sea level is the detonating agent of the coast zone land-sea dynamic interactive processes. They can be summarized as “transgression-dynamic-sedimentation” processes. Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 49236120). Pmject codmg: SCIEL 21198103.  相似文献   

9.
Dark aeolian deposits on Mars are thought to consist of volcanic materials due to their mineral assemblages, which are common to basalts. However, the sediment source is still debated. Basaltic dunes on Earth are promising analogs for providing further insights into the assumed basaltic sand dunes on Mars. In our study we characterize basaltic dunes from the Ka'u Desert in Hawaii using optical microscopes, electron microprobe, and spectral analyses. We compare the spectra of terrestrial and Martian dune sands to determine possible origins of the Martian dark sediments. Our results show that the terrestrial sands consist primarily of medium to coarse sand‐sized volcanic glass and rock fragments as well as olivine, pyroxene, and plagioclase minerals. Grain shapes range from angular to subrounded. The sample composition indicates that the material was derived from phreatomagmatic eruptions partially with additional proportions of rock fragments from local lava flows. Grain shape and size indicate the materials were transported by aeolian processes rather than by fluvial processes. Spectral analyses reveal an initial hydration of all terrestrial samples. A spectral mineralogical correlation between the terrestrial and Martian aeolian sands shows a similarity consistent with an origin from volcanic ash and lava. We suggest that the Martian deposits may contain similar abundances of volcanic glass, which has not yet been distinguished in Martian spectral data. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
Size and Fourier-shape characteristics of quartz sand grains were determined by computerized image analysis in order to distinguish between aeolian and fluvial soil parent materials in the Dallol Bosso in Niger. Factor analysis of grain-size distributions gave four sand end-members that can be related to fluvial transport dynamics operating when the sediments were initially deposited. The medium to fine (and more angular shaped) sand fractions are being reworked by wind. Aeolian deposits were well sorted whereas fluvial deposits were poorly sorted in both size and shape. Although gross-shape characteristics (lower harmonics of Fourier series expansion) indicated a common source rock for all sands, the aeolian sands were well rounded whereas the fluvial sands tended to be more angular (upper harmonics of Fourier series).  相似文献   

11.
The coast of southeast Africa is dominated by sandy beaches that tend to be confined within log‐spiral or headland‐bound embayments. Investigations using serendipitous air imagery data set have been previously undertaken and conclusions drawn about the stability of the coast. We show that conclusions drawn from this data, with respect to the high water mark (HWM) position are fraught with errors, which include tidal state, pressure regime, beach slope, high‐swell erosion, seasonal and multi‐annual changes. We highlight and discuss these sources of error, together with their magnitudes. The most significant of these are the high‐swell, seasonal and multi‐annual variations. From case studies we show that the seasonal beach rotation and long‐term beach width variation are responsible for tens of metres of unaccounted HWM variation, 30 to 50 m is common, with maximums reaching 60 to 100 m. Overall the southeast African coastline appears to be in a state of long‐term dynamic equilibrium. There is no evidence of any sea‐level rise‐forced transgression in the coastal sediment budget, despite sea‐level rise (SLR). If such a signal is, in fact present, it is lost within the beach width variation. Some southeast African coastal reaches are suffering chronic erosion, but these are related to anthropogenic impacts. The extreme difficulty of placing a HWM, with any temporal validity on this coast precludes the routine use of the Bruun Rule. Although no transgressive signature is found, there is evidence of a decreasing coastal sand budget as a result of anthropogenic or natural climate change, or both. This decrease in the coastal sand volume is likely to result in increased future erosion. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
It is generally held that subtle changes in sandy environments are very difficult to detect in imagery. Nonetheless, this study demonstrates how synthetic aperture radar (SAR) interferometric decorrelation can be used to identify changes in individual sand dunes. The use of coherence maps over time facilitates the analysis of dune dynamics, both temporally and spatially. The Ashdod‐Nizzanim coastal dunes, along the southern coastal plain of Israel, were chosen as an illustrative example of the analysis of dune dynamics. High‐resolution TerraSAR‐X (TSX) radar images covering the entire research area were acquired for the period February to July 2012, together with meteorology data (wind and rain) for the area. The coherence results enabled the stability of individual dunes to be described as a function of time. It was found that the dune crests were more stable than the windward slopes and that the degree of stability was dependent on the distance of the dune from the sea. The results of this study show the potential of using interferometric synthetic aperture radar (InSAR) decorrelation for aeolian studies, even in areas characterized by low coherence. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
Sedimentological, compositional and geochemical determinations were carried out on 54 desert and coastal dune sand samples to study the provenance of desert and coastal dunes of the Altar Desert, Sonora, Mexico. Grain size distributions of the desert dune sands are influenced by the Colorado River Delta sediment supply and wind selectiveness. The desert dune sands are derived mainly from the quartz‐rich Colorado River Delta sediments and sedimentary lithics. The dune height does not exert a control over the grain size distributions of the desert dune sands. The quartz enrichment of the desert dune sands may be due to wind sorting, which concentrates more quartz grains, and to the aeolian activity, which has depleted the feldspar grains through subaerial collisions. The desert dune sands suffer from little chemical weathering and they are chemically homogeneous, with chemical alteration indices similar to those found in other deserts of the world. The desert sands have been more influenced by sedimentary and granitic sources. This is supported by the fact that Ba and Sr concentration values of the desert sands are within the range of the Ba and Sr concentration values of the Colorado River quartz‐rich sediments. The Sr values are also linked to the presence of Ca‐bearing minerals. The Zr values are linked to the sedimentary sources and heavy mineral content in the desert dunes. The Golfo de Santa Clara and Puerto Peñasco coastal dune sands are influenced by long shore drift, tidal and aeolian processes. Coarse grains are found on the flanks whereas fine grains are on the crest of the dunes. High tidal regimens, long shore drift and supply from Colorado Delta River sediments produce quartz‐rich sands on the beach that are subsequently transported into the coastal dunes. Outcrops of Quaternary sedimentary rocks and granitic sources increase the sedimentary and plutonic lithic content of the coastal dune sands. The chemical index of alteration (CIA) values for the desert and coastal dune sands indicate that both dune types are chemically homogeneous. The trace element values for the coastal dune sands are similar to those found for the desert dune sands. However, an increase in Sr content in the coastal dune sands may be due to more CaCO3 of biogenic origin as compared to the desert dune sands. Correlations between the studied parameters show that the dune sands are controlled by sedimentary sources (e.g. Colorado River Delta sediments), since heavy minerals are present in low percentages in the dune sands, probably due to little heavy mineral content from the source sediment; grain sizes in the dune sands are coarser than those in which heavy minerals are found and/or the wind speed might not exert a potential entrainment effect on the heavy mineral fractions to be transported into the dune. A cluster analysis shows that the El Pinacate group is significantly different from the rest of the dune sands in terms of the grain‐size parameters due to longer transport of the sands and the long distance from the source sediment, whereas the Puerto Peñasco coastal dune sands are different from the rest of the groups in terms of their geochemistry, probably caused by their high CaCO3 content and slight decrease in the CIA value. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

14.
In agricultural basins of the southeastern coastal plain there are typically large disparities between upland soil erosion and sediment delivered to streams. This suggests that colluvial storage and redistribution of eroded soil within croplands is occurring, and/or that processes other than fluvial erosion are at work. This study used soil morphology and stratigraphy as an indicator of erosion and deposition processes in a watershed at Littlefield, North Carolina. Soil stratigraphy and morphology reflect the ways in which mass fluxes associated with cultivation transform the local soils. Fluvial, aeolian and tillage processes were all found to be active in the redistribution of soil. The soil transformations are of five general types. First, erosion and compaction in the cultivated area as a whole result in the thinning of Arenic and Grossarenic Paleudults and Paleaquults to form Arenic, Typic and Aquic Paleudults and Paleaquults. Second, redistribution of surficial material within the fields results in transitions between Arenic and Typic or Aquic subgroups as loamy sand A and E horizons are truncated or accreted. Third, aeolian deposition at forested field boundaries leads to the formation of compound soils with podzolized features. Fourth, sandy rill fan deposits at slope bases create cumulic soils distinct from the loamy sands of the source area or the darker, finer terrace soils buried by the fan deposits. Finally, tillage and fluvial deposition in upland depressions results in the gradual burial of Rains (poorly drained Typic Paleaquults) soils. Results confirm the importance of upland sediment storage and redistribution, and the role of tillage and aeolian processes as well as fluvial processes in the region. Copyright © 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
The evolution of barchan-to-parabolic dunes can be driven by vegetation establishment, which may be linked to climate change and/or human activity. However, little is known of the impact of changes in wind strength on vegetation development and the resulting impacts on the evolution of dune morphology and sedimentological characteristics. To address this issue, we studied the morphology and grain-size characteristics of barchan, barchan-to-parabolic and parabolic dunes in the Mu Us Desert in north China, which was combined with an analysis of changes in normalized difference vegetation index (NDVI) and climatic variables during 1982–2018. The results reveal a trend of increasing growing-season NDVI which was related to a significant decrease in drift potential (DP). Therefore, we suggest that the initiation of dune transformation was caused by the reduced wind strength which favored the establishment and development of vegetation. To reveal the response of sedimentological reorganization during the processes of dune transformation, grain-size characteristics along the longitudinal profile of the three different types of dunes were examined. The decreasing wind strength led to the transport of fine sands on the upper part of the windward face of the dunes, resulting in a progressive coarsening of the grain-size distribution (GSD) and a reduction in dune height at the crest area. No distinct trend in sorting and mean grain-size was observed on the windward slope of the barchan-to-parabolic dune, indicating that the sand in transit had little influence on the GSD. Conversely, progressive sorting and coarsening of the sand occurred towards the crest of the parabolic dune. This indicates that vegetation development limited the transport of sand from upwind of the dune, and affected a shift in the dune source material to the underlying source deposits, or to reworked pre-existing aeolian deposits, and resulted in the trapping of sand in the crest area. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
Although dunes fronted by sandy beaches constitute approximately 80 per cent of South Africa's coastline, few studies have addressed the formation and life cycle of coastal foredunes, the small, ephemeral shore‐parallel dune ridges typically less than 5 m high and 20 m wide, which form seaward of the storm line. This study used regular, detailed topographic surveys of embryo and foredunes at Tugela mouth, an aggrading stretch of shoreline on the subtropical east coast of South Africa, over a 32‐month period, to gain insight into the formation and motion of these highly mobile landforms over the short term. Average wind drift potential at Tugela mouth during the study period, at 2·35 m s?1, was an order of magnitude lower than that typical of most parts of the eastern South African coast. The dominant sand‐moving wind for the region was from the southwest to west‐southwest at 10·7 to 13·8 m s?1, with a secondary vector from north to north‐northeast at 10·8 to 13·8 m s?1. Signi?cant shoreline retreat, a result of the low sediment yield of the Tugela River during the study period, was one of the main results. This provided the context for redistribution of sand from the inland to the seaward side of the study area, a consequence of the dominant wind direction, and for frequent creation and destruction of short‐lived embryo dunes. Those foredunes which survived the whole study period tended to increase in height, but there was no consistent directional trend in foredune crest movement throughout the 32 months. The study results generally supported Psuty's model of foredune development, but could not con?rm his contention of landward retreat of dune forms under conditions of shoreline erosion. This may be due to the relatively short duration of the study, or possibly to low wind drift potential at the site. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
Optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating of sand samples from stabilized (or inactive) coastal dunes in Denmark provides information on the age of the termination phase of the last major aeolian activity period. A total of 26 sand samples were taken from four different coastal dunefields around the North Sea, Skagerrak and Kattegat coasts of Denmark. The OSL dates indicate that the last major phase of aeolian activity terminated between ad 1860 and 1905. Most of the dunes examined in this study were active around 1820, during a period documented to have been very stormy. A dune management scheme started around 1792, and this no doubt was a major cause of dunefield stabilization, but an overall decline of storminess, particularly spring and summer storminess, around the end of the 19th century must also have contributed to the increasing inactivity of coastal dunes. The new OSL dates on aeolian sand movement agree well with historical data and data from topographic maps on dune movement. This agreement supports the observation from earlier work that OSL dating of recent aeolian sand movement is accurate over the last few decades to centuries. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
Marine and eolian carbonate deposits, grouped under the name “Tamala Limestone”, have been investigated along thousands of kilometers of coastal Western Australia (WA). Relative-age diagenetic features of carbonate sand dunes or “eolianites” indicate that coastal ridges decrease in age seaward, reflecting coastal accretion during successive sea-level stands. Yellow- to red-stained quartz sands are associated with eolianites as pits, lenses, extensive beds, and even 40-m-high dunes.A regional survey using whole-rock and land snail amino acid epimerization geochronology confirms the eolianite succession and provides a means of correlating widespread deposits along a steep climatic gradient and 16° of latitude. AMS 14C and uranium–thorium (U/Th) ages provide independent radiometric calibration of the amino acid ratios, and eolianite ages can be estimated using a parabolic kinetic model.Over 90% of the sampled eolianite deposits comprise Aminozones A, C, E (125 ka), F?, G, and H, and correlate with interglacials from <10 ka (Holocene) to ca. 500 ka. In contrast, at the type locality of the Tamala Limestone along the Zuytdorp Cliffs, the upper eolianite-paleosol units are characterized by advanced stages of cavernous weathering, pedogenesis, and recrystallization. In the same units, sediment and snail samples generally yield very low or non-detectable levels of amino acids. These factors along with the stratigraphic complexity of the deposits reflect an age much greater than a large majority of sites along the WA coastline. These findings encourage a revision of the existing classification and nomenclature of Quaternary carbonate deposits in WA, as well as a reexamination of the underlying mechanisms related to the formation and emplacement of both carbonate and quartz dunes.  相似文献   

19.
At Pedro Beach on the southeastern coast of Australia a series of foredune ridges provides an opportunity to explore the morphodynamic paradigm as it applies to coastal barrier systems using optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating, ground penetrating radar (GPR) and airborne LiDAR topography. A series of sandy dune-capped ridges, increasing in height seawards, formed from c. 7000 years ago to c. 3900 years ago. During this time the shoreline straightened as the embayment filled and accommodation space for Holocene sediments diminished. Calculation of Holocene sediment accumulation above mean sea level utilising airborne LiDAR topography shows a decline in average sediment supply over this time period coupled with a decrease in shoreline progradation rate from 1.2 m/yr to 0.38 m/yr. The average ridge ‘exposure lifetime’ during this period increases resulting in higher ridges as dune-forming processes have longer to operate. Increasing exposure to wave and wind energy also appears to have resulted in higher ridges as the sheltering effect of marginal headlands was diminished. An inherited disequilibrium shoreface profile will drive onshore accumulation of sandy sediments forming a prograded barrier; however, if there is no longer ‘accommodation space’ for sediment, this will be an overriding factor causing the cessation of progradation, as occurred c. 3900 years ago at Pedro Beach. Excess sediment in the nearshore zone after 3900 years ago may have been moved northward to nourish downdrift beaches in the compartment. A high outer foredune has formed through vertical accretion after 500 years ago, evidenced by GPR subsurface structures and OSL ages, with a distinct period of vertical and lee slope accretion and dated to the period 1890–1930 AD. The increased dune sediment transport resulting in foredune building is attributed to recent human disturbance. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×107 m3 during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.  相似文献   

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