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1.
In this paper the 0-1 combined BEM is adopted to subdivide the computational domain boundary,and to discretize the Green’s integral expression based on Laplace equation.The FEM is used to subdivide the wave surface and deduce the surface equation which satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions on the surface.The equations with potential function and wave surface height as an unknown quantity by application of Taylor expansion approach can be solved by iteration within the time step.In m-time iteration within the computational process of time step(n-1)Δt to nΔt,the results of the previous iteration are taken as the initial value of the two-order unknown terms in the present iteration.Thus,an improved tracking mode of nonlinear wave surface is established,and numerical results of wave tank test indicate that this mode is improved obviously and is more precise than the previous numerical model which ignored the two-order unknown terms of wave surface location and velocity potential function in comparison with the theoretical values. 相似文献
2.
The most common parameters and functions used to characterize wave groups in linear seas are reviewed and interrelated in a unified manner. A three-axes representation of run lengths is used to characterize wave groups using exponential and Markov chain approximations. A relationship between four parameters (Qp, Qe, κ2, and ρ2) and the correlation coefficient between consecutive wave heights [rHH(1)] is demonstrated. The wave-height function method is reviewed in some detail in order to relate the run length theory with envelope theories. The theoretical estimates used to demonstrate the relationships between the various parameters must be considered as only first-order trends to parameter estimates computed from real wave data due to the statistical variability in these estimates when computed from real wave data. 相似文献
3.
《Ocean Modelling》2008,20(1):35-60
The generalized Langrangian mean theory provides exact equations for general wave–turbulence–mean flow interactions in three dimensions. For practical applications, these equations must be closed by specifying the wave forcing terms. Here an approximate closure is obtained under the hypotheses of small surface slope, weak horizontal gradients of the water depth and mean current, and weak curvature of the mean current profile. These assumptions yield analytical expressions for the mean momentum and pressure forcing terms that can be expressed in terms of the wave spectrum. A vertical change of coordinate is then applied to obtain glm2z-RANS equations with non-divergent mass transport in cartesian coordinates. To lowest order, agreement is found with Eulerian mean theories, and the present approximation provides an explicit extension of known wave-averaged equations to short-scale variations of the wave field, and vertically varying currents only limited to weak or localized profile curvatures. Further, the underlying exact equations provide a natural framework for extensions to finite wave amplitudes and any realistic situation. The accuracy of the approximations is discussed using comparisons with exact numerical solutions for linear waves over arbitrary bottom slopes, for which the equations are still exact when properly accounting for partial standing waves. For finite amplitude waves it is found that the approximate solutions are probably accurate for ocean mixed layer modelling and shoaling waves, provided that an adequate turbulent closure is designed. However, for surf zone applications the approximations are expected to give only qualitative results due to the large influence of wave nonlinearity on the vertical profiles of wave forcing terms. 相似文献
4.
Based on Green–Naghdi equation this work studies unsteady ship waves in shallow water of varying depth. A moving ship is regarded as a moving pressure disturbance on free surface. The moving pressure is incorporated into the Green–Naghdi equation to formulate forcing of ship waves in shallow water. The frequency dispersion term of the Green–Naghdi equation accounts for the effects of finite water depth on ship waves. A wave equation model and the finite element method (WE/FEM) are adopted to solve the Green–Naghdi equation. The numerical examples of a Series 60 (CB=0.6) ship moving in shallow water are presented. Three-dimensional ship wave profiles and wave resistance are given when the ship moves in shallow water with a bed bump (or a trench). The numerical results indicate that the wave resistance increases first, then decreases, and finally returns to normal value as the ship passes a bed bump. A comparison between the numerical results predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations is made. It is found that the wave resistance predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation is larger than that predicted by the shallow water equations in subcritical flow
, and the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations predict almost the same wave resistance when
, the frequency dispersion can be neglected in supercritical flows. 相似文献
5.
The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves with significant wave height more than 2 m based on the data collected along the Indian coast is examined. It was found that the value of Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) parameters (α and γ) increases with significant wave height and mean wave period and decreases with spectral peak period. The estimated average value (0.0027 and 1.63) of the JONSWAP parameters, α and γ were less than the generally recommended values of 0.0081 and 3.3, respectively. By carrying out a multi-regression analysis, an empirical equation is arrived relating the JONSWAP parameters with significant wave height, peak wave period and mean wave period. It was found that the Scott spectra underestimate the maximum spectral energy of high waves. The study shows that the measured wave spectra can be represented by JONSWAP spectra with the JONSWAP parameters estimated based on the equation proposed in this paper. 相似文献
6.
A numerical boundary integral equation method combined with a non-linear time stepping procedure is used for the calculation of wave forces on a large, submerged, horizontal circular cylinder. As the method is based on potential theory, all computations are performed in the inertia dominated domain, that is, for small Keulegan-Carpenter numbers. Computations are carried out for the Eulerian mean current under wave trough level equal to zero. When the cylinder is moved towards the sea bed the computations show that the inertia coefficients increase significantly, which is associated with a blockage effect. Furthermore, the effect of the wave steepness is reduced when the submergence of the cylinder is increased. In the vicinity of the free water surface the vertical inertia coefficient is highly dependent upon the wave steepness, which tends to reduce it, whereas the horizontal inertia coefficient is only slightly dependent on the wave steepness. Computations are also carried out for cylinder diameters comparable with the wave length. Finally, inertia coefficients computed by the present method are compared with some analytical results by Ogilvie [(1963), First and second order forces on a cylinder submerged under a free surface. J. Fluid Mech. 16, 451–472]. As long as the assumptions leading to Ogilvie's theory are fulfilled (cylinder radius small compared to the wave length), the results are quite similar. 相似文献
7.
This study investigates the dynamic response of a Triangular Configuration Tension Leg Platform (TLP) under random sea wave loads. The random wave has been generated synthetically using the Monte-Carlo simulation with the Peirson–Moskowitz (P–M) spectrum. Diffraction effects and second-order wave forces have not been considered. The evaluation of hydrodynamic forces is carried out using the modified Morison equation with water particle kinematics evaluated using Airy's linear wave theory. Wave forces are taken to be acting in the surge degree-of-freedom. The effect of coupling of various structural degrees-of-freedom (surge, sway, heave, roll, pitch and yaw) on the dynamic response of the TLP under random wave loads is studied. Parametric studies for random waves with different Hs and Tz under the presence of current have also been carried out. For the orientation of the TLP, surge, heave and pitch degrees-of-freedom responses are influenced significantly. The surge power spectral density function (PSDF) indicates that the mean square response is affected by the amplification at the natural frequency of the surge degree-of-freedom and also at the peak frequency of the wave loading. The PSDF of the heave response shows higher peak values near the surge frequency and near the peak frequency of the wave loading. Surge response, therefore, influences heave response to the maximum. Variable submergence seems to be a major source of nonlinearity and significantly enhances the responses in surge, heave and pitch degrees-of-freedom. In the presence of current, the response behaviour of the TLP is altered significantly introducing a non-zero mean response in all degrees-of-freedom. 相似文献
8.
A wave transformation model (RIDE) was enhanced to include the process of wave breaking energy dissipation in addition to water wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, and harbor resonance. The Gaussian Elimination with partial Pivoting (GEP) method for a banded matrix equation and a newly developed bookkeeping procedure were used to solve the elliptic equation. Because the bookkeeping procedure changes the large computer memory requirements into a large hard-disk-size requirement with a minimum number of disk I/O, the simple and robust GEP method can be used in personal computers to handle realistic applications. The computing time is roughly proportional to N1.7, where N is the number of grid points in the computing domain. Because the GEP method is capable of solving many wave conditions together (limited by having the same wave period, no bottom friction and no breaking), this model is very efficient compared to iteration methods when simulating some of the wave transformation process. 相似文献
9.
By using a process of successive approximations, the Boundary-Layer equations are solved to determine the separation points of a circular cylinder in oscillatory flow under the conditions of vortex existing. Combining with the discrete vortex model, the separation points and the fluid force coefficients are calculated at different KC numbers and Re numbers, A modified Morison equation is used in calculating the inline forces, and good agreements are obtained between the calculated results and those from other's experiments. 相似文献
10.
Atsushi Kubokawa 《Journal of Oceanography》1995,51(2):207-224
Gyre-scale frontal structures, e.g., the Subtropical Front, have been well documented in the oceans. Although the generation mechanism of such a front remains unclear, it may be ascribed to the steepening of nonlinear planetary waves as discussed by Dewar (1992). To discuss the stationary wave characteristics and their shock formation in a two-layer wind-driven gyre, the present paper introduces a new coordinate, referred to as theSverdrup coordinate here, in which the Sverdrup function is used instead of the longitudinal coordinate, and especially, investigates the possibility of the frontgenesis caused by the Rossby waves emanating from the western boundary region. On theSverdrup coordinate, since the advection by the Sverdrup flow is in the direction normal to that of the Rossby wave propagation, the system becomes much simpler than that on the (x,y)-coordinate, and the solution to this coordinate does not explicitly depend on the distribution of the Ekman pumping, i.e., we can treat cases, in which the Ekman pumping is a function of bothx andy, in a similar way to the case with zonally uniform Ekman pumping. 相似文献
11.
In this study the evolution of internal solitary waves shoaling onto a shelf is considered. The results of high resolution two-dimensional numerical simulations of the incompressible Euler equations are compared with the predictions of several weakly-nonlinear shoaling models of the Korteweg–de Vries family including the Gardner equation and the cubic regularized long wave (or Benjamin–Bona–Mahoney) equation. Wave models in both physical x–t space and in s–x space are considered where s is a commonly used characteristic time variable. The effects of rotation, background currents and damping are ignored. The Boussinesq and rigid lid approximations are also used. The shoaling internal solitary waves generally fission into several waves. Reflected waves are negligible in the cases considered here. Several hyperbolic tangent stratifications are considered with and without a critical point. Among the equations in x–t space the cubic regularized long wave equation gives the best predictions. The Gardner equation in s–x space gives the best predictions of the shape of the leading waves on the shelf, but for many stratifications it predicts a propagation speed that is too large. 相似文献
12.
基于几何形态测量学的4种金线鱼矢耳石识别研究 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
利用2007年9月至2010年9月采自北部湾海域的24尾红棘金线鱼(Nemipterus nemurus)、32尾金线鱼(N.virgatus)、36尾深水金线鱼(N.bathybius)和35尾日本金线鱼(N.japonicus)性成熟后的矢耳石样本,运用几何形态测量学方法研究了4种鱼类矢耳石形态识别问题。耳石经图像处理后提取地标点坐标值,进行相对扭曲主成分分析,通过判别分析区分4种金线鱼的耳石,利用薄板样条分析和网格变形分析耳石形态变异。结果表明:在相对扭曲主成分分析中,第1、2、3主成分分别解释了总变异的30.78%、28.44%和11.75%,可以将四种金线鱼耳石区分开来。其中Ⅰ型地标点6、10、11,Ⅱ型地标点2,Ⅲ型地标点7,贡献作用较大,解释了主要形态变异。相对扭曲主成分的逐步判别分析中,四种鱼的平均判别成功率达91.3%;交互验证结果显示,四种鱼的平均判别成功率达89.8%,表明几何形态测量学分析可以作为鱼种耳石识别的有效方法之一,在耳石形态学与鱼种判别研究中具有重要应用价值。 相似文献
13.
Generally, the sea-state (random waves) is best described by a wave spectrum. A number of statistical models for wave spectra has been well established and a sea-state can be specified. Once the specified sea-state is established, the corresponding model for wave forces acting on a single cylinder or a group of cylinders can be formulated. Since peak force is of more practical value, a multivariate or joint probability density function for wave forces has been developed for the peak force distribution of wave forces. This theoretical force model derives the tri-variate probability density function P(F, F′, F″), where F is the peak force defined by Morison equation. This model is of wide-band in nature and is tested by wave flume experiments. 相似文献
14.
Li Luping 《海洋学报(英文版)》1997,16(1):45-56
In this paper, it is held that the universal relationships of wave growth in fetch-limited conditions , i. e.,(f|~) p=A(x|~)-Band (m|~)0= C(x|~) Dshould satisfy the Toba 3/2 power law and the wave energy balance equation. In the ideal generation situation, theoretically it can be derived that the ideal fetch-limited wave growth relationship should have D=3B and D B =1, (i.e., B = 0.25, D = 0.75 ) and A3C=2. 1×l(T4C~(1/2)_d , where Cd is the drag coefficient. The 3/2 power law, the wave energy balance equation and the decrease of wave steepness with increasing fetch have became three requirements which should be satisfied by fetch-limited wave growth algorithms. A semi-empirical and semi-theoretical model for fetch-limited wave growth is presented. In the application to the slanting wind situation an un(?)ersal relationship of dimensionless wave energy vs dimensionless peak frequency is presented and the comparisons show that the model is in good agreement with observations. 相似文献
15.
Reflection of long sea waves from an underwater slope described by a power law is studied within the shallow water theory.
The slope is connected with the flat bottom. This model allows us to estimate the roles of a pointwise reflection from the
inflection point of the bottom profile and distributed reflection at the underwater slope. The case of the underwater slope
described by the so-called nonreflecting beach (h(x) ∼ x
4/3, where h is the depth of the basin and x is the coordinate) when the wave is reflected only from the inflection point (pointwise reflection) is specially considered.
The reflection and transmission coefficients over the bottom topography were calculated, and it was shown that the sum of
the squared absolute values of these values differs from unity for all profiles except the nonreflecting one. This difference
is related to the distributed re-reflections (resonances) over the underwater slope that lead to the deviations in the wave
height from the known Green’s law. 相似文献
16.
A laboratory investigation of wave forces induced by a regular train of waves on a large pipeline resting on the bed and at various clearances from the bed is presented. From considerations of dimensional analysis horizontal and vertical components of wave forces acting on the pipeline are expressed as force coefficients which are shown to be functions mainly of H/2a, gT2/2a, d/a and e/2a. A simple unseparated flow model based on potential flow theory and Morison's equation is presented for evaluating the maximum forces on the pipeline. The experimental results are com3ared with the theoretical results and data from existing literature. Based on the experimental results, hydrodynamic coefficients CM and CL have been evaluated 相似文献
17.
双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤具有低反射、结构受力小、适宜较大水深和工程造价低等优点。为明确双消浪室局部开孔沉箱水动力特性的主要影响因素,采用理论分析和物理模型试验相结合的方法,对规则波和不规则波作用下双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤的反射特性进行研究。基于势流理论,建立规则波和不规则波对局部开孔沉箱防波堤作用的三维解析解,采用二次压力损失边界条件考虑沉箱开孔墙对波浪运动的影响,利用周期性边界条件考虑防波堤结构沿长度方向的周期性变化。开展相应规则波和不规则波物理模型试验,验证理论模型的合理性。通过算例分析,研究不同波浪要素和结构参数对防波堤反射特性的影响。研究表明:双消浪室局部开孔沉箱相对消浪室宽度取值为0.08~0.20,沉箱前墙开孔率大于后墙开孔率时,防波堤在较大波浪频率范围内消波效果显著;当前后墙的开孔率相等时,防波堤反射系数的最小值随着开孔率增大而减小。 相似文献
18.
This study presents sand activation depth (SAD) measurements recently obtained on two contrasting beaches located along the Atlantic coast of France: the gently sloping, high-energy St Trojan beach where wave incidence is usually weak, and the steep, low-energy Arçay Sandspit beach where waves break at highly oblique angles. Comparisons between field measurements and predictions from existing formulae show good agreement for St Trojan beach but underestimate the SAD on the Arçay Sandspit beach by 40–60%. Such differences suggest a strong influence of wave obliquity on SAD. To verify this hypothesis, the relative influence of wave parameters was investigated by means of numerical modelling. A quasi-linear increase of SAD with wave height was confirmed for shore-normal and slightly oblique wave conditions, and a quasi-linear increase in SAD with wave obliquity was also revealed. Combining the numerical results with previously published relations, both a new semi-empirical and an empirical formula for the prediction of SAD were developed which showed good SAD predictions under conditions of oblique wave breaking. The new empirical formula for the prediction of SAD (Z 0) takes into account the significant wave height (H s), the beach face slope (β) and the wave angle at breaking (α), and is of the form $ Z_{0} = 1.6\tan {\left( \beta \right)}H^{{0.5}}_{{\text{s}}} {\sqrt {1 + \sin {\left( {2\alpha } \right)}} } This study presents sand activation depth (SAD) measurements recently obtained on two contrasting beaches located along the
Atlantic coast of France: the gently sloping, high-energy St Trojan beach where wave incidence is usually weak, and the steep,
low-energy Ar?ay Sandspit beach where waves break at highly oblique angles. Comparisons between field measurements and predictions
from existing formulae show good agreement for St Trojan beach but underestimate the SAD on the Ar?ay Sandspit beach by 40–60%.
Such differences suggest a strong influence of wave obliquity on SAD. To verify this hypothesis, the relative influence of
wave parameters was investigated by means of numerical modelling. A quasi-linear increase of SAD with wave height was confirmed
for shore-normal and slightly oblique wave conditions, and a quasi-linear increase in SAD with wave obliquity was also revealed.
Combining the numerical results with previously published relations, both a new semi-empirical and an empirical formula for
the prediction of SAD were developed which showed good SAD predictions under conditions of oblique wave breaking. The new
empirical formula for the prediction of SAD (Z
0) takes into account the significant wave height (H
s), the beach face slope (β) and the wave angle at breaking (α), and is of the form . The use of a dataset from the literature demonstrates the predictive skill of these new formulae for a wide range of wave
heights, wave incidence and beach gradients. 相似文献
19.
The characteristics of turbulence created by a plunging breaker on a 1 on 35 plane slope have been studied experimentally in a two-dimensional wave tank. The experiments involved detailed measurements of fluid velocities below trough level and water surface elevations in the surf zone using a fibre-optic laser-Doppler anemometer and a capacitance wave gage. The dynamical role of turbulence is examined making use of the transport equation for turbulent kinetic energy (the k-equation). The results show that turbulence under a plunging breaker is dominated by large-scale motions and has certain unique features that are associated with its wave condition. It was found that the nature of turbulence transport in the inner surf zone depends on a particular wave condition and it is not similar for different types of breakers. Turbulent kinetic energy is transported landward under a plunging breaker and dissipated within one wave cycle. This is different from spilling breakers where turbulent kinetic energy is transported seaward and the dissipation rate is much slower. The analysis of the k-equation shows that advective and diffusive transport of turbulence play a major role in the distribution of turbulence under a plunging breaker, while production and dissipation are not in local equilibrium but are of the same order of magnitude. Based on certain approximate analytical approaches and experimental measurements it is shown that turbulence production and viscous dissipation below trough level amount to only a small portion of the wave energy loss caused by wave breaking. It is suggested that the onshore sediment transport produced by swell waves may be tied in a direct way to the unique characteristics of turbulent flows in these waves. 相似文献
20.
The present study is a modification of the wave prediction model presented in the first paper of this title (Kawai
et al., 1979) based on the Toba's (1978) single parameter equation of the wind wave growth. The introduction of a grid method reduces
the two defects pointed out inKawai
et al., i.e., the absence of the prediction of certain instants at fixed points, and the concentration of wave energy at certain
points in the wind direction, arising from the lack of treatment of the lateral spreading of wave energy around the wind direction.
The new model is applied to the same set of data. The results shows overall improvements, such as the elimination of certain
overestimate in the first study and the coincidence of the predicted maximum with the measured one. The swells are separately
hindcasted and a very good agreement with measurement is obtained. 相似文献