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1.
The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform. 相似文献
2.
A laboratory study on the turbulence and wave energy dissipations of spilling breakers in a surf zone is presented. Instantaneous velocity fields of propagating breaking waves on a 1/20 slope were measured using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV). Due to the large region of the evolving wave breaking generated turbulent flow, seven PIV fields of view (FOVs) were mosaicked to form a continuous flow field in the surf zone. Mean and turbulence quantities were extracted by ensemble averaging 25 repeated instantaneous measurements at each FOV. New results for distribution and evolution of turbulent kinetic energy, mean flow energy, and total energy across the surf zone were obtained from analyzing the data. The turbulence dissipation rate was estimated based on several different approaches. It was found that the vertical distribution of the turbulence dissipation rate decays exponentially from the crest level to the bottom. The resulting energy budget and energy flux were also calculated. The calculated total energy dissipation rate was compared to that based on a bore approximation. It was found that the ratio of turbulence dissipation rate to total energy dissipation rate was about 0.01 in the outer surf zone and increased to about 0.1 after the breaking waves transformed into developed turbulent bores in the inner surf zone. 相似文献
3.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(1):53-80
In this paper, a two-dimensional multi-scale turbulence model is proposed to study breaking waves. The purpose of developing this model is to produce a relatively accurate model with moderate computer requirements. The free surface is tracked by the VOF technique, the log-law profile for the mean velocity is applied at the bottom. Comparing with the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes models (RANS), the present model shows improving agreement with experimental measurements in terms of surface elevations, particle velocities, wave height distributions and undertow profiles. The subgrid scale (SGS) turbulent transport mechanism is also discussed in the paper. It is found that turbulent production and dissipation are of the same order, but turbulent production is primarily located at the wavefront and above the wave trough, whereas turbulent dissipation is primarily located at the back face of a wave, indicating that in these regions, the assumption of equilibrium is not correct. Below the trough level, the local equilibrium assumption is reasonable. Turbulent convection and diffusion are of the same order at the trough level. Above the trough level, turbulent convection dominates. Under the spilling breaking wave, turbulent kinetic energy is continue to dissipate in the bore region, whereas under the plunging breaking wave, the turbulent kinetic energy is dissipated very rapidly within one wave period. 相似文献
4.
5.
As a fully developed (Airy) wave propagates from deep into shallow water, its crest becomes more peaked while the trough flattens out. The median crest diameter MCD, defined as the distance between the wave flanks under the crest at a level halfway between the crest and trough, therefore decreases relative to the similarly defined median trough diameter MTD, which remains constant up to the breaking point. The MCD is directly related to other wave characteristics, which enables water particle velocities to be calculated for any water depth without having to recur to more complex, higher-order Stokes, cnoidal or Fenton theories. Over a nearly horizontal bottom, most fully developed wave characteristics can be expressed as functions of the wave period Tw. It is shown that the horizontal particle velocity at the bottom under the breaker crest is at least 9 times faster than under the breaker trough, which explains why sediment is transported landward under fair weather conditions. The proposed equations also shed new light on the formation of spilling, plunging and surging/collapsing breakers. 相似文献
6.
Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope. 相似文献
7.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(1):53-86
A numerical model is used to simulate wave breaking, the large scale water motions and turbulence induced by the breaking process. The model consists of a free surface model using the surface markers method combined with a three-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence is described by large eddy simulation where the larger turbulent features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and the small scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model is represented by a sub-grid model. A simple Smagorinsky sub-grid model has been used for the present simulations. The incoming waves are specified by a flux boundary condition. The waves are approaching in the shore-normal direction and are breaking on a plane, constant slope beach. The first few wave periods are simulated by a two-dimensional model in the vertical plane normal to the beach line. The model describes the steepening and the overturning of the wave. At a given instant, the model domain is extended to three dimensions, and the two-dimensional flow field develops spontaneously three-dimensional flow features with turbulent eddies. After a few wave periods, stationary (periodic) conditions are achieved. The surface is still specified to be uniform in the transverse (alongshore) direction, and it is only the flow field that is three-dimensional.The turbulent structures are investigated under different breaker types, spilling, weak plungers and strong plungers. The model is able to reproduce complicated flow phenomena such as obliquely descending eddies. The turbulent kinetic energy is found by averaging over the transverse direction. In spilling breakers, the turbulence is generated in a series of eddies in the shear layer under the surface roller. After the passage of the roller the turbulence spreads downwards. In the strong plunging breaker, the turbulence originates to a large degree from the topologically generated vorticity. The turbulence generated at the plunge point is almost immediately distributed over the entire water depth by large organised vortices. Away from the bed, the length scale of the turbulence (the characteristic size of the eddies resolved by the model) is similar in the horizontal and the vertical direction. It is found to be of the order one half of the water depth. 相似文献
8.
Large Eddy Simulation for Plunge Breaker and Sediment Suspension 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1
Breaking waves are a powerful agent for generating turbulence that plays an important role in many fluid dynamical processes, particularly in the mixing of materials. Breaking waves can dislodge sediment and throw it into suspension, which will then be carried by wave-induced steady current and tidal flow. In order to investigate sediment suspension by breaking waves, a numerical model based on large-eddy-simulation (LES) is developed. This numerical model can be used to simulate wave breaking and sediment suspension. The model consists of a free-surface model using the surface marker method combined with a two-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence and the turbulent diffusion are described by a large-eddy-simulation (LES) method where the large turbulence features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and a subgrid model represents the small-scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model. A dynamic eddy viscosity subgrid scale stress model has been used for the 相似文献
9.
Franoise Ozanne Andrew J. Chadwick David A. Huntley David J. Simmonds John Lawrence 《Coastal Engineering》2000,41(4)
In this paper, the performance of a 1-D Boussinesq model is evaluated against laboratory data for its ability to predict surf zone velocity moments. Wave evolution over a plane beach and a complex bathymetry both extending into the surf-zone is examined for six cases. For the plane beach, these comprise two cases, a spilling and a plunging cnoidal wave. For the complex bathymetry, these comprise four cases of longer and short wavelengths (spilling and plunging breakers), with regular and irregular periodicity. The model evaluation places emphasis on parameters of the wave field that could be used for the prediction of sediment transport; orbital velocity, undertow, velocity skewness, kurtosis and asymmetry. It is found that, despite an overestimation of the depth-averaged horizontal velocity in the regular waves cases, the predicted higher order velocity moments and undertow are in good agreement with the laboratory data. A bispectral analysis demonstrates that the nonlinear transfers of energy amongst the low order harmonics are well reproduced, but energy exchanges with the higher harmonics are less well predicted. As a result, the model handles velocity moments better in the shorter wave tests than in the long wave cases where triad interactions are stronger. Of the four parameters describing wave breaking, the model behaviour is most sensitive to the critical wave front slope φB, especially with regard to velocity skewness and kurtosis predictions. It is also found that increasing the thickness of the surface roller for the case of plunging breakers improves the model's performance. 相似文献
10.
珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。 相似文献
11.
A number of parameterisations for the simulation of mixing processes in the thermocline are compared and tested against the microstructure data of the PROVESS campaigns, conducted in the northern part of the North Sea during the autumn of 1998. The transport term in the turbulent kinetic energy equation is parameterised via the introduction of a third stability function Sk for turbulent energy diffusion. The formulations are compared with a simpler scheme based upon limiting conditions for turbulence variables. Improved results are obtained with a new form of Sk. The best agreement is, however, found with the simpler limiting scheme. This is explained in terms of a turbulence length scale theory for stably stratified turbulence. In agreement with previous laboratory and ocean data it is found that the ratios of the Thorpe and Kolmogorov scales to the Ozmidov length scale approach critical limiting values in the thermocline. The first of these conditions is satisfied when limiting conditions are implemented into the scheme, providing the necessary minimum value for the dissipation rate, whereas the schemes without limiting conditions fail to produce this critical ratio. The basic reason for this failure is that the Thorpe scale is overestimated, which is shown to be connected to an even larger overprediction of the dissipation rate of temperature variance. To investigate the impact of non-resolved advective processes and salinity stratification on the turbulence predictions, additional numerical experiments were conducted using a simple scheme for data assimilation. The best agreement is found again with the limiting scheme, which is able to make reasonable predictions for the dissipation rate without knowing the detailed shape of the mean stratification profile. It is shown that advective transport due to tidally and wind-driven motions has a non-negligible impact on vertical mixing. This is seen in the data and the models by periodic enhancements of turbulent mixing inside the thermocline. 相似文献
12.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):463-485
A Navier–Stokes solver with a free surface model is used for simulating wave breaking, undertow, and turbulence in breaking waves. The free surface model is based on the Volume of Fluid concept. Turbulence scales larger than the grid scale are simulated directly while turbulence scales smaller than the grid scale are represented by a sub-grid scale model. Two different approaches for the sub-grid scale model have been applied, which are the Smagorinsky model and a model based on a k-equation for the sub-grid scale turbulence. The waves approach the shore in shore-normal direction and break on a plane constant sloping beach. Periodic spilling and plunging breakers are simulated for 20 and 16 wave periods, respectively. The set-up, undertow, and turbulence levels are compared to experimental results. Despite the rather coarse resolution of the computational domain, satisfactory results for the wave height decay and undertow have been obtained. However, the turbulence levels are over-predicted when using the standard values of the model parameters and a complete answer to this problem has not been found. Furthermore, the evolution of vorticity over the wave period has been studied. It shows that at the initial breaking point vorticity is generated around the vertical as well as around the transverse axis. Later vorticity around the longitudinal axis (offshore–onshore direction) is generated, probably through deformation of vorticity around the other axis. 相似文献
13.
A boundary layer flow under spilling breakers in a laboratory surf zone with a smooth bottom is investigated using a high resolution particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique. By cross-correlating the images, oscillatory velocity profiles within a viscous boundary layer of O(1) mm in thickness are resolved over ten points. Using PIV measurements taken for an earlier study and the present study, flow properties in the wave bottom boundary layer (WBBL) over the laboratory surf zone are obtained, including the mean velocities, turbulence intensity, Reynolds stresses, and intermittency of coherent events. The data are then used to estimate the boundary layer thickness, phase variation, and bottom shear stress. It is found that while the time averaged mass transport inside the WBBL is onshore in the outer surf zone, it changes to offshore in the inner surf zone. The zero Eulerian mass transport occurs at h/hb ≈ 0.92 in the outer surf zone. The maximum overshoot of the streamwise velocity and boundary layer thickness are not constant across the surf zone. The bottom shear stress is mainly contributed by the viscous stress through mean velocity gradient while the Reynolds stress is small and negligible. The turbulence level is higher in the inner surf zone than that in the outer surf zone, although only a slight increase of turbulent intensity is observed inside the WBBL from the outer surf zone to the inner surf zone. The variation of phase inside and outside the WBBL was examined through the spatial velocity distribution. It is found the phase lead is not constant and its value is significantly smaller than previous thought. By analyzing instantaneous velocity and vorticity fields, a remarkable number of intermittent turbulent eddies are observed to penetrate into the WBBL in the inner surf zone. The size of the observed large eddies is about 0.11 to 0.16 times the local water depth. Its energy spectra follow the − 5/3 slope in the inertial subrange and decay exponentially in the dissipation subrange. 相似文献
14.
内波破碎引起的能量耗散和混合是海洋内部的重要物理过程。通过在二维内波水槽进行实验室实验,分析内波与地形的作用,探究内孤立波与平顶海山地形作用时波要素、能量以及湍耗散率的时空变化。本实验利用重力塌陷法在两层流体中制造第一模态内孤立波,通过粒子图像测速技术(particle image velocimetry, PIV)获得内孤立波与地形作用时的流场结构,定量分析整个作用过程。结果表明,地形会改变波形甚至引起破碎,内波与地形作用时,振幅和能量密度会在内孤立波爬坡时迅速增大,在地形前缘产生强烈能量耗散。入射波的能量与塌陷高度呈二次函数关系,透射波能量随地形升高减小,反射波能量随地形升高增大。地形前缘局地湍耗散率极值时间序列在部分实验中呈双峰结构,对应内孤立波界面处剪切加强引起湍流耗散和波后缘翻转破碎。破碎引起的地形前缘区域平均湍耗散率量级在10~(-5)m~2/s~3,局地湍耗散率极值与入射波振幅呈指数关系,所有实验中局地湍耗散率的最大值接近10~(-3) m~2/s~3量级。 相似文献
15.
通过大尺度水槽波浪引起泥沙悬移的动床模型实验,研究了沙坝海岸破波带内水底悬沙浓度形成机理,通过比较时间平均水底悬沙浓度与时间平均水底波浪水质点动能或时间平均水底湍动能之间的相关性,论证了利用时间平均湍动能比利用时间平均波浪水质点动能计算时间平均水底悬沙浓度更为适用,并提出了以上时间平均水底悬沙浓度与水底湍动能之间的关系也可以用来近似表达时间变化的水底悬沙浓度与时间变化的水底湍动能之间的关系。研究针对规则波、波群和不规则波3种波浪形态进行,并分别对破波带内的爬坡区、内破波区和沙坝区3个区域实验结果进行讨论。 相似文献
16.
Surf zones are highly dynamic, physically stressful parts of sandy beach ecosystems. The high wave energy of surf zones has in the past severely hampered ecological surveys of these systems. Here we used a novel technique to collect fauna from this environment along the Dutch coast. A large vehicle in the form a tripod that drives along the sandy seafloor and supports a sampling platform 11 m above the water line can collect both infaunal (grabs) samples and pull beam trawls for epibenthos. The distribution and diversity of macrofauna were studied at different depths in the surf zone along the Dutch coast. Species diversity and abundance increased with increasing depth of the water column. This increase was especially noticeable on the seaward side of the outer breaker bar. Within the surf zone, in the trough between the two breaker bars, there were spots of high diversity and abundance of macrobenthic infauna. Moreover, the area is also important for epibenthic and fish species, like the commercially important flatfish sole. Spatial patterns of species richness and abundance across an onshore-offshore gradient from the beach to seawards of the breakers suggest the presence of faunal zonation in this environment. The high abundance recorded in troughs was primarily caused by patches of juvenile Sand mason Lanice conchilega. The management implications of these results are that we suggest to protect the surf zone, including the trough between the two breaker bars, as a potential area of high diversity and abundance and to reconsider the objectives of the EU-Habitat Directive and the Water Framework Directive for the coastal area. 相似文献
17.
波浪破碎过程产生的湍流动量和能量垂向输运对于加快海洋上混合层中垂向混合具有显著效果。采用二维实验室水槽中对波浪破碎过程进行模拟。对采集的波浪振幅时间序列采用希尔伯特变换定位破碎波位置,波浪的破碎率随有效波高的增加而增大,波浪谱分析得到的波浪基本周期与有效周期结果相似。实验中采用粒子图像测速技术(particle image velocimetry, PIV)计算波浪破碎过程中湍动能耗散率的空间分布。湍流强度与波浪的相位密切相关,波峰位置处湍流活动最为剧烈,而且波峰位置处湍流混合区内湍动能耗散率量值的垂向分布基本保持不变,即出现"湍流饱和"现象,湍流影响深度可以达到波高的70%—90%。计算湍流扩散系数的垂向分布发现,湍流扩散在混合区上部随深度的增大以指数函数的形式增加,在混合区下部趋于稳定。作为对比,在相同位置处对声学多普勒流速测量仪(acoustic Doppler velocimeter, ADV)测量的单点流速做频谱分析,发现与该位置处PIV湍动能耗散率结果量级处于同一水平,进一步验证了实验结果的准确性。 相似文献
18.
Experimental Study on the Bed Shear Stress Under Breaking Waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The object of present study is to investigate the bed shear stress on a slope under regular breaking waves by a novel instrument named Micro-Electro-Mechanical System (MEMS) flexible hot-film shear stress sensor. The sensors were calibrated before application, and then a wave flume experiment was conducted to study the bed shear stress for the case of regular waves spilling and plunging on a 1:15 smooth PVC slope. The experiment shows that the sensor is feasible for the measurement of the bed shear stress under breaking waves. For regular incident waves, the bed shear stress is mainly periodic in both outside and inside the breaking point. The fluctuations of the bed shear stress increase significantly after waves breaking due to the turbulence and vortexes generated by breaking waves. For plunging breaker, the extreme value of the mean maximum bed shear stress appears after the plunging point, and the more violent the wave breaks, the more dramatic increase of the maximum bed shear stress will occur. For spilling breaker, the increase of the maximum bed shear stress along the slope is gradual compared with the plunging breaker. At last, an empirical equation about the relationship between the maximum bed shear stress and the surf similarity parameter is given, which can be used to estimate the maximum bed shear stress under breaking waves in practice. 相似文献
19.
The k-ε turbulence model which relates the eddy viscosity to turbulent kinetic energy, k, and to the rate of its dissipation, ε, and determines the distribution of these two quantities from modeled transport equations, is employed in calculating the vertical structure of wave-induced turbulent flows in two-dimensional estuaries. The empirical constants in this model are given the standard values cited in the literature and used successfully for calculating a large variety of steady flows; they are not tuned to the oscillating flows. The free surface elevation and the eddy-viscosity distribution are also calculated as a part of the solution. First, calculations performed for oscillatory laminar flows are compared with analytic solutions to ensure the proper performance of the numerical scheme. The turbulent flow in a laboratory-estuary model with one end closed, and in the Humber Estuary is simulated with the numerical model, and the results are compared with the corresponding flume and field measurements. The influence of frequency and roughness is thereby investigated. The results indicate that the time and space variation of the velocity field and the phase lag between the surface slope and the horizontal velocity can be predicted satisfactorily in wave-induced turbulent flows. 相似文献
20.
Numerical study on the characteristics of flow field and wave propagation near submerged breakwater on slope 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
In this study,characteristics of flow field and wave propagation near submerged breakwater on a sloping bed are investigated with numerical model. The governing equations of the vertical twodimensional model are Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes equations. The Reynolds stress terms are closed by a nonlinear k ε turbulence transportation model. The free surface is traced through the PILC-VOF method. The proposed numerical model is verified with experimental results. The numerical result shows that the wave profile may become more asymmetrical when wave propa-gates over breakwater. When wave crest propagates over breakwater,the anticlockwise vortex may generate. On the contrary,when wave hollow propagates over breakwater,the clockwise vortex may generate. Meanwhile,the influenced zone of vortex created by wave crest is larger than that created by wave hollow. All the maximum values of the turbulent kinetic energy,turbulent dissi-pation and eddy viscosity occur on the top of breakwater. Both the turbulent dissipation and eddy viscosity increase as the turbulent kinetic energy increases. Wave energy may rapidly decrease near the breakwater because turbulent dissipation increases and energy in lower harmonics is transferred into higher harmonics. 相似文献