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Ching-Piao Tsai Hong-Bin Chen Hwung-Hweng Hwung Ming-Jen Huang 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(3-4):469-483
Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index. 相似文献
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The run-up flow and related pressure of solitary waves breaking on a 1:20 plane beach were investigated experimentally in a super tank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m). Swash flow measurements of flow velocities are compared with an existing analytical solution. By incorporating an analytical solution, the hydrodynamic pressure for a quasi-steady flow state is determined and compared with laboratory data. Concerning the evident extra pressure exerted by the impact of swash flow, an empirical drag coefficient for a circular plate is also suggested in the present study. 相似文献
3.
Ray-Yeng Yang Ying-Chih Wu Hwung-Hweng Hwung Jiing-Yih Liou Igor V. Shugan 《Ocean & Coastal Management》2010,53(9):552-561
The shoreline of Taiwan is approximately 1100 km long, composed of sandy beach, rocky coast, and reef coast. Almost half of the shoreline has been protected by seawalls, which play an important role for coastal protection and prevent people and infrastructure from coastal hazard. Besides, offshore breakwaters and groynes are also built in the serious erosion coastal shores. All these hard engineering structures made our coastal land safety to some extent at last fifty years. However, until now, the hard engineering structures applied for shore protection do not always work well on all the coasts around Taiwan. Some coastal areas still get eroded seriously with structures being damaged. Furthermore in the recent years, people gradually value the shore protection from different viewpoints, like environment, recreation, and ecology. The objectives of the shore protection are diversified by these new demands.Therefore, the purpose of this study is to evaluate the strategy on how to conjoint soft solutions into the current hard engineering structures for beach erosion control throughout Taiwan coast. Meanwhile, this paper will also introduce environmentally, user-oriented, and technically sound creditable protection works to meet the new trends of shore protection. For application purpose, two local sites in the southwestern Taiwan coast are selected for field experimental study to integrate the proposed soft solution with hard shore protection system at present. Furthermore for coastal management purpose, this paper also collects and analyzes hydro-morphodynamic data around Taiwan in order to identify beach erosion mechanism. Lastly, the results are presented by database and geographic information system. 相似文献
4.
A laboratory study on the turbulence and wave energy dissipations of spilling breakers in a surf zone is presented. Instantaneous velocity fields of propagating breaking waves on a 1/20 slope were measured using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV). Due to the large region of the evolving wave breaking generated turbulent flow, seven PIV fields of view (FOVs) were mosaicked to form a continuous flow field in the surf zone. Mean and turbulence quantities were extracted by ensemble averaging 25 repeated instantaneous measurements at each FOV. New results for distribution and evolution of turbulent kinetic energy, mean flow energy, and total energy across the surf zone were obtained from analyzing the data. The turbulence dissipation rate was estimated based on several different approaches. It was found that the vertical distribution of the turbulence dissipation rate decays exponentially from the crest level to the bottom. The resulting energy budget and energy flux were also calculated. The calculated total energy dissipation rate was compared to that based on a bore approximation. It was found that the ratio of turbulence dissipation rate to total energy dissipation rate was about 0.01 in the outer surf zone and increased to about 0.1 after the breaking waves transformed into developed turbulent bores in the inner surf zone. 相似文献
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A boundary layer flow under spilling breakers in a laboratory surf zone with a smooth bottom is investigated using a high resolution particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique. By cross-correlating the images, oscillatory velocity profiles within a viscous boundary layer of O(1) mm in thickness are resolved over ten points. Using PIV measurements taken for an earlier study and the present study, flow properties in the wave bottom boundary layer (WBBL) over the laboratory surf zone are obtained, including the mean velocities, turbulence intensity, Reynolds stresses, and intermittency of coherent events. The data are then used to estimate the boundary layer thickness, phase variation, and bottom shear stress. It is found that while the time averaged mass transport inside the WBBL is onshore in the outer surf zone, it changes to offshore in the inner surf zone. The zero Eulerian mass transport occurs at h/hb ≈ 0.92 in the outer surf zone. The maximum overshoot of the streamwise velocity and boundary layer thickness are not constant across the surf zone. The bottom shear stress is mainly contributed by the viscous stress through mean velocity gradient while the Reynolds stress is small and negligible. The turbulence level is higher in the inner surf zone than that in the outer surf zone, although only a slight increase of turbulent intensity is observed inside the WBBL from the outer surf zone to the inner surf zone. The variation of phase inside and outside the WBBL was examined through the spatial velocity distribution. It is found the phase lead is not constant and its value is significantly smaller than previous thought. By analyzing instantaneous velocity and vorticity fields, a remarkable number of intermittent turbulent eddies are observed to penetrate into the WBBL in the inner surf zone. The size of the observed large eddies is about 0.11 to 0.16 times the local water depth. Its energy spectra follow the − 5/3 slope in the inertial subrange and decay exponentially in the dissipation subrange. 相似文献
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Turbulent flow fields under spilling breaking waves are measured by particle image velocimetry and analyzed using the wavelet techniques in a laboratory surf zone. The turbulent vortical structures and corresponding length scales in the flow are detected through the eduction of the most excited mode with local intermittency measure that is found to correlate with the passage of the structure. Distributions and evolution of the educed vortical structures are presented and discussed. Packets of vortical structures with high intermittency is observed to stretch downward below the initially low-intermittency trough level, indicating these structures play a crucial role in turbulent mixing below the trough level. It is found that the probability density functions of the intermittent energy of the educed structures, vorticity and swirl strength display an exponential decay. Ensemble-averaged length scales of the educed vortical structures are found to be about 0.1 to 0.2 times the local water depth, close to the turbulent mixing length reported in the surf zone. The Kolmogorov microscale is evaluated and the turbulent mixing length is estimated using the k − ε relation and mixing length hypothesis. The k − ε relation may overestimate the mixing length scale for energetic descending eddies. 相似文献
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Observation and measurement of the bottom boundary layer flow in the prebreaking zone of shoaling waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
In this paper, the characteristics of the bottom boundary layer flow induced by nonlinear, asymmetric shoaling waves, propagating over a smooth bed of 1/15 uniform slope, is experimentally investigated. Flow visualization technique with thin-layered fluorescent dye was first used to observe the variation of the flow structure, and a laser Doppler velocimeter was then employed to measure the horizontal velocity, U.The bottom boundary layer flow is found to be laminar except within a small region near the breaking point. The vertical distribution of the phase-averaged velocity U at each phase is non-uniform, which is directly affected by the mean velocity,
. The magnitude of
increases from zero at the bottom to a local positive maximum at about z/δ2.02.5 (where z is the height above the sloping bottom and δ is the Stokes layer thickness), then decreases gradually to zero at z/δ6.07.0 approximately, and finally becomes negative as z/δ increases further. Moreover, as waves propagate towards shallower water, the rate of increase in the maximum onshore oscillating velocity component
is greater than that of the offshore counterpart
except near the breaking point. The free stream velocities in the profiles of the maximum onshore and offshore oscillating velocity components,
and
are found to appear at z/δ≥6.0. This implies that, if the Stokes layer thickness is used as a length scale, the non-dimensionalized boundary layer thickness remains constant in the pre-breaking zone. Although
is greater than
and the asymmetry of the maximum free stream velocities (i.e.
) increases with decrease of water depth, a universal similar profile can be established by plotting z/δ versus (
) or (
). The final non-dimensional profile is symmetric and unique for the distributions of the maximum onshore and offshore oscillating velocity components within the bottom boundary layer, which are induced by nonlinear, asymmetric shoaling waves crossing the pre-breaking zone. 相似文献
8.
A series of experiments were conducted in a super-wave flume (300 m×5 m×5.2 m) to examine the low-frequency motion induced by waves with different incident steepness, sloping gradients and normalized frequency (sideband space). Two kinds of waves including initial uniform wave train and modulated wave train (one carrier with a pair of sidebands) are utilized for incident wave conditions. From the experimental results, it is found that for a given slope gradient the infra-gravity wave component decreases as wave nonlinearity increases and frequency downshift is a predominant factor. Furthermore, the magnitude of low-frequency component decreases with slope gradients for a given initial wave condition. In addition, the maximum value of low-frequency motion is found to be close to the normalized frequency, δ=1.0. 相似文献
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When a block of dense sandy soil moves downhill, the shear-induced soil dilatancy along the basal shear boundary produces a negative value of excess pore pressure that increases the basal frictional resistance. Dilatancy angle,Ψ, the degree to which the basal soil dilates due to the shear, normally evolves during slope failure. A study by other researchers shows that if Ψ is constant, the block of dense soil will remain stable(or unstable) sliding when the velocity-weakening rate of the basal friction coefficient of the block is small(or large) enough. Moreover, during unstable sliding processes, the block of dense soil exhibits "periodic" patterns of intermittent slipping. Here, we used a more efficient and accurate numerical scheme to revisit that study. We expanded their model by assuming Ψ evolves during slope failure. Consequently, we acquired completely different results. For instance, even though the velocity-weakening rate of the friction coefficient is fixed at the same smaller(or larger) value that those researchers use, the stable(or unstable) steady states of landslide they predict will inversely change to unstable(or stable) when Ψ decreases(or increases) with the increase of slide displacement to a value small(or large) enough. Particularly, in unstable processes, the soil block exhibits "aperiodic" styles of intermittent slipping, instead of "periodic". We found out that the stick states appearing later last longer(or shorter) in the case of decreasing(or increasing) Ψ. Moreover, because the basic states of landslides with impacts of dilatancy evolution are not steady nor periodic, traditional stability-analysis methods cannot be "directly" used to analyze the stability of such landslides. Here, we broke through this technical problem to a degree. We showed that combining a concept called "quasi-steady-state approximation" with a traditional stability-analysis technique can qualitatively predict the instability onset of the landslides. Through this study, we demonstrated that the combination of Chebyshev collocation(CC) and 4~(th)-order Runge-Kutta methods is more accurate and efficient than the numerical scheme those researchers use. 相似文献
10.
A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions. 相似文献
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