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1.
The paper describes the results of an experimental study on the behavior of cover stones on a liquefiable soil bed exposed to a progressive wave. The soil was silt with d50 = 0.098 mm. Stones, the size of 4 cm, were used as cover material. The effect of packing density of stones, and that of number of stone layers (including the effect of an intermediate filter layer) were investigated. Pore pressure was measured across the soil depth. The experiments show that the soil liquefaction depended mainly on two parameters: the packing density of stones, and the number of stone layers. When the liquefaction occurs, stones sink in the soil. Mechanisms of liquefaction and sinking are described, and practical guidelines are recommended.  相似文献   

2.
Wave boundary layer over a stone-covered bed   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
This paper summarizes the results of an experimental investigation on wave boundary layers over a bed with large roughness, simulating stone/rock/armour block cover on the sea bottom. The roughness elements used in the experiments were stones the size of 1.4cm and 3.85cm in one group of experiments and regular ping-pong balls the size 3.6cm in the other. The orbital-motion-amplitude-to-roughness ratio at the bed was rather small, in the range a/ks = 0.6–3. The mean and turbulence properties of the boundary-layer flow were measured. Various configurations of the roughness elements were used in the ping-pong ball experiments to study the influence of packing pattern, packing density, number of layers and surface roughness of the roughness elements. The results show that the friction factor seems to be not extremely sensitive to these factors. The results also show that the friction factor for small values of the parameter a/ks does not seem to tend to a constant value as a/ks → 0 (contrary to the suggestion made by some previous investigators). The present friction-factor data indicates that the friction factor constantly increases with decreasing a/ks. An empirical expression is given for the friction factor for small values of a/ks. The results further show that the phase lead of the bed friction velocity over the surface elevation does not seem to change radically with a/ks, and found to be in the range 12°–23°. Furthermore the results show that the boundary-layer turbulence also is not extremely sensitive to the packing pattern, the packing density, the number of layers and the surface roughness of the roughness elements. There exists a steady streaming near the bed in the direction of wave propagation, in agreement with the existing work. The present data indicate that the steady streaming is markedly smaller in the case where the ping-pong balls are aligned at 45° to the wave direction than in the case with 90° alignment. Likewise, it is found that the steady streaming is relatively smaller in the case of the one-layer ping-pong-ball roughness than in the case of the two-layer situation.  相似文献   

3.
The experimental investigation of unidirectional random wave slamming on the three-dimensional structure in the splash zone is presented. The experiment is conducted in the marine environment channel in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology. The test wave is unidirectional irregular wave. The experiments are carried out with perpendicular random waves (β=0°) and oblique random waves (β=15°, 30°, 45°), the significant wave heights H1/3 ranging from 7.5 to 20 cm with 2.5 cm increment, the peak wave periods Tp ranging from 0.75 to 2.0 s with 0.25 s increment, and the clearance of the model with respect to the significant wave height s/H1/3 ranging from 0.0 to 0.5 with 0.1 increment. The statistical analysis results of different test cases are presented. The statistical distribution characteristics of the perpendicular irregular wave impact pressures are compared with that of the oblique irregular wave on the underside of the structure. The effect of the wave direction β on the wave impact forces on the underside of the structure is determined. The relation between the impact forces and the parameters such as the significant wave height, the relative structure width and the relative clearance of the structure is also discussed.  相似文献   

4.
《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(11-12):1577-1589
The basic principle involved in the design of S-shaped breakwater is the provision of a wide berm at or around the water level with smaller size armor stones than that used in conventional design, which are allowed to reshape till an equilibrium slope is achieved. An attempt is made to assess the influence of wave height, wave period, and berm width on the stability of S-shaped breakwater with reduced (30% reduction in armor stone weight) armor unit weight. From the investigation, it is found that the berm breakwater with 30% reduced armor weight would be stable for the design wave height if the berm width is 60 cm and wave period 1.2 s. For higher wave periods studied, zero damage wave height reduces by 20–40% of the design wave height. Wave period has large influence on the stability of berm breakwaters. The runup increases with decrease in weight up to Wo/W=0.9.  相似文献   

5.
Regular waves were applied in a laboratory flume to investigate the evolutions of the velocity fields near above a fine sandy bed (d50=0.073 mm) during fluidized responses. Measurements of 2D velocity components and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) at 1 cm above the bed in addition to water surface displacements and sub-soil pore pressures were carried out with an acoustic Doppler velocimeter and an optical probe. The results have shown similar three typical soil responses including one unfluidized and two fluidized responses to previous report in other fine-grained soil beds. In the post- and pre-fluidized stages of a resonantly fluidized response, amplitudes of horizontal velocity component can be decreased by a maxima value of 50% while vertical components can be amplified up to 5 times larger. The developments of near-bed velocity field become less significant in consecutive non-resonantly fluidized responses. Particularly, the evolutions of the velocity field are closely dependent on the deepening of fluidized surface soil layers df and the characteristics of soil fluidization responses. The amplified vertical velocity components are clearly contradictory to the dissipated overloading waves near above a fluidized bed but are critical to much drastic sediment suspensions by interactions between overloading waves and fluidized bed soils.  相似文献   

6.
The reproductive biology of a shelf morid, red cod (Salilota australis) was investigated in the Falkland Islands, in order to expand our knowledge of the reproductive strategy of this relatively unstudied family of fishes. Red cod spawn to the south and south-west of West Falkland between August and October. Length frequency and sex ratio data suggest that females arrive at the spawning grounds first. The greatest spawning activity occurred in early evening and this timing may be an adaptation to reduce predation on eggs. Ripe egg size varied from 0.95 to 1.26 mm and was not dependant on female size. There was no regulative atresia during maturation and the formation of fecundity and fecundity increased with increasing fish total length (LT) from 300,000 (42-45 cm LT) to 4.5-9.0 million eggs (75-83 cm LT). The fecundity of most of the population was between 2 and 5 million eggs. Red cod releases small batches of eggs over the spawning period. Batch size ranged from 30,000-90,000 (39-42 cm LT) in smaller animals to 400,000-800,000 (>75 cm LT) in larger animals and the batch size of first spawners was significantly higher than for advanced spawners. The study allows us to discuss the evolutionary relationships between the Gadiformes.  相似文献   

7.
In the present paper a general longshore transport (LT) model is proposed after a re-calibration of the model originally introduced by Lamberti and Tomasicchio (1997) based on a modified stability number, Ns⁎⁎, for stone mobility at reshaping or berm breakwaters. Ns⁎⁎ resembles the traditional stability number (Ahrens, 1987; van der Meer, 1988) taking into account the effects of a non-Rayleighian wave height distribution at shallow water (Klopman and Stive, 1989), wave steepness, wave obliquity, and nominal diameter of the units. Nine high-quality data sets from field and laboratory experiments have been considered to extend the validity of the original model for a wider mobility range of the units: from stones to sands. The predictive capability of the proposed model has been verified against the most popular formulae in literature for the LT estimation of not cohesive units at a coastal body. The comparison showed that the model gives a better agreement with the physical data with respect to the other investigated formulae.The proposed transport model presents a main advantage with respect to other formulae: it can represent an engineering tool suitable for a large range of conditions, from sandy beaches till reshaping breakwaters.  相似文献   

8.
The diurnal variation of nitric oxide (NO) emission fluxes from a Kandelia obovata and Avicennia marina mangrove wetland were studied in the Zhangjiang River Estuary Mangrove National Nature Reserve using a dynamic chamber-based technique and a chemiluminescent analyzer. Results from field experiments show that NO emission from K. obovata and A. marina sampling sites reached maximal values of 1.07 ng N m−2 s−1 and 1.23 ng N m−2 s−1, respectively after the night tide. Meanwhile NO emission maintained at a steady lower level in daytime for both wetland sites. In laboratory experiments, NO emission from the mangrove wetland soil samples treated with simulated tides in the darkness exhibited higher values than those in the light, therefore it seems that tides and darkness could increase NO emission from mangrove wetlands, while intensive light, high temperature, and dryness in the daytime decreased NO emission. Compared with K. obovata soil samples, the diurnal average NO emission rate of the A. marina site was significantly higher, which was closely related to relatively higher diurnal average CO2 emission rate, soil available nitrogen content and soil net nitrification rate of the A. marina site. Moreover, soil samples of the A. marina site were more responsive to simulated tides and the addition of nitrogen than those of the K. obovata site.  相似文献   

9.
Understanding sediment movement in coastal areas is crucial in planning the stability of coastal structures, the recovery of coastal areas, and the formation of new coast. Accretion or erosion profiles form as a result of sediment movement. The characteristics of these profiles depend on the bed slope, wave conditions, and sediment properties. Here, experimental studies were performed in a wave flume with regular waves, considering different values for the wave height (H0), wave period (T), bed slope (m), and mean sediment diameter (d50). Accretion profiles developed in these experiments, and the geometric parameters of the resulting berms were determined. Teaching–learning-based optimization (TLBO) and artificial bee colony (ABC) algorithms were applied to regression functions of the data from the physical model. Dimensional and dimensionless equations were found for each parameter. These equations were compared to data from the physical model, to determine the best equation for each parameter and to evaluate the performances of the TLBO and ABC algorithms in the estimation of the berm parameters. Compared to the ABC algorithm, the TLBO algorithm provided better accuracy in estimating the berm parameters. Overall, the equations successfully determined the berm parameters.  相似文献   

10.
A 1DV-RANS diffusion model is used to study sand transport processes in oscillatory flat-bed/sheet flow conditions. The central aim is the verification of the model with laboratory data and to identify processes controlling the magnitude and direction (‘onshore’/‘offshore’) of the net time-averaged sand transport. The model is verified with a large series of measured net sand transport rates, as collected in different wave tunnels for a range of wave-current conditions and grain sizes. Although not all sheet flow details are represented in the 1DV-model, it is shown that the model is able to give a correct representation of the observed trends in the data with respect to the influence of the velocity, wave period and grain diameter. Also detailed mean sediment flux profiles in the sheet flow layer are well reproduced by the model, including the direction change from ‘onshore’ to ‘offshore’ due to a difference in grain size from 0.34 mm (medium sand) to 0.13 mm (fine sand). A model sensitivity study with a selected series of net transport data shows that the stirring height of the suspended sediment εs/ws strongly controls the magnitude and direction of the net sediment transport. Inclusion of both hindered settling and density stratification appears to be necessary to correctly represent the sand fluxes for waves alone and for waves + a superimposed current. The best agreement with a large dataset of net transport measurements is obtained with the 1DV-RANS model in its original settings using a Prandtl–Schmidt number σρ = 0.5.  相似文献   

11.
This paper presents an investigation of the roughness effects in the turbulent boundary layer for asymmetric waves by using the baseline (BSL) k–ω model. This model is validated by a set of the experimental data with different wave non-linearity index, Ni (namely, Ni = 0.67, Ni = 0.60 and Ni = 0.58). It is further used to simulate asymmetric wave velocity flows with several values of the roughness parameter (am/ks) which increase gradually, namely from am/ks = 35 to am/ks = 963. The effect of the roughness tends to increase the turbulent kinetic energy and to decrease the mean velocity distribution in the inner boundary layer, whereas in the outer boundary layer, the roughness alters the turbulent kinetic energy and the mean velocity distribution is relatively unaffected. A new simple calculation method of bottom shear stress based on incorporating velocity and acceleration terms is proposed and applied into the calculation of the rate of bed-load transport induced by asymmetric waves. And further, the effect of bed roughness on the bottom shear stress and bed-load sediment transport under asymmetric waves is examined with the turbulent model, the newly proposed method, and the existing calculation method. It is found that the higher roughness elements increase the magnitude of bottom shear stress along a wave cycle and consequently, the potential net sediment transport rate. Moreover, the wave non-linearity also shows a big impact on the bottom shear stress and the net sediment transport.  相似文献   

12.
The formation of beach megacusps along the shoreline of southern Monterey Bay, CA, is investigated using time-averaged video and simulated with XBeach, a recently developed coastal sediment transport model. Investigations focus on the hydrodynamic role played by the bay's ever-present rip channels. A review of four years of video and wave data from Sand City, CA, indicates that megacusps most often form shoreward of rip channels under larger waves (significant wave height (Hs) = 1.5–2.0 m). However, they also occasionally appear shoreward of shoals when waves are smaller (Hs ~ 1 m) and the mean water level is higher on the beach. After calibration to the Sand City site, XBeach is shown to hindcast measured shoreline change moderately well (skill = 0.41) but to overpredict the erosion of the swash region and beach face. Simulations with small to moderate waves (Hs = 0.5–1.2 m) suggest, similar to field data, that megacusps will form shoreward of either rip channels or shoals, depending on mean daily water level and pre-existing beach shape. A frequency-based analysis of sediment transport forcing is performed, decomposing transport processes to the mean, infragravity, and very-low-frequency (VLF) contributions for two highlighted cases. Results indicate that the mean flow plays the dominant role in both types of megacusp formation, but that VLF oscillations in sediment concentration and advective flow are also significant.  相似文献   

13.
A ten-year data set for fetch- and depth-limited wave growth   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
This paper presents the key results from a ten-year data set for Lake IJssel and Lake Sloten in The Netherlands, containing information on wind, storm surges and waves, supplemented with SWAN 40.51 wave model results. The wind speeds U10, effective fetches x and water depths d for the data set ranged from 0–24 m s− 1, 0.8–25 km and 1.2–6 m respectively. For locations with non-sloping bottoms, the range in non-dimensional fetch x? ( = gxU10− 2) was about 25–80,000, while the range in dimensionless depth d? ( = g d U10− 2) was about 0.03–1.7. Land–water wind speed differences were much smaller than the roughness differences would suggest. Part of this seems due to thermal stability effects, which even play a role during near-gale force winds. For storm surges, a spectral response analysis showed that Lake IJssel has several resonant peaks at time scales of order 1 h. As for the waves, wave steepnesses and dimensionless wave heights H? ( = gHm0U10− 2) agreed reasonably well with parametric growth curves, although there is no single curve to which the present data fit best for all cases. For strongly depth-limited waves, the extreme values of d? (0.03) and Hm0 / d (0.44) at the 1.7 m deep Lake Sloten were very close to the extremes found in Lake George, Australia. For the 5 m deep Lake IJssel, values of Hm0 / d were higher than the depth-limited asymptotes of parametric wave growth curves. The wave model test cases of this study demonstrated that SWAN underestimates Hm0 for depth-limited waves and that spectral details (enhanced peak, secondary humps) were not well reproduced from Hm0 / d = 0.2–0.3 on. SWAN also underestimated the quick wave response (within 0.3–1 h) to sudden wind increases. For the remaining cases, the new [Van der Westhuysen, A.J., Zijlema, M., and Battjes, J.A., 2007. Nonlinear saturation-based whitecapping dissipation in SWAN for deep and shallow water, Coast. Eng., 54, 151–170] SWAN physics yielded better results than the standard physics of Komen, G.J., Hasselmann, S., Hasselmann, K., 1984. On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 14, 1271–1285, except for persistent overestimations that were found for short fetches. The present data set contains many interesting cases for detailed model validation and for further studies into the evolution of wind waves in shallow lakes.  相似文献   

14.
Experiments on three types of soil (d50=0.287, 0.057 and 0.034 mm) with pipeline(D=4 cm) either half buried or resting on the seabed under regular wave or combined with current actions were conducted in a large wave flume to investigate characteristics of soil responses. The pore pressures were measured through the soil depth and across the pipeline. When pipeline is present the measured pore pressures in sandy soil nearby the pipeline deviate considerably from that predicted by the poro-elasticity theory. The buried pipeline seems to provide a degree of resistance to soil liquefaction in the two finer soil seabeds. In the silt bed, a negative power relationship was found between maximum values of excess pore pressure pmax and test intervals under the same wave conditions due to soil densification and dissipation of the pore pressure. In the case of wave combined with current, pore pressures in sandy soil show slightly decrease with time, whereas in silt soil, the current causes an increase in the excess pore pressure build-up, especially at the deeper depth. Comparing liquefaction depth with scour depth underneath the pipeline indicates that the occurrence of liquefaction is accompanied with larger scour depth under the same pipeline-bed configuration.  相似文献   

15.
Airy waves have a sinusoidal profile in deep water that can be modeled by a time series at any point x and time t, given by η(x,t) = (Ho/2) cos[2πx/Lo − 2πt/Tw], where Ho is the deepwater height, Lo is the deepwater wavelength, and Tw is the wave period. However, as these waves approach the shore they change in form and dimension so that this equation becomes invalid. A method is presented to reconstruct the wave profile showing the correct wavelength, wave height, wave shape, and displacement of the water surface with respect to the still water level for any water depth.  相似文献   

16.
Sabellariid worms, such as Phragmatopoma lapidosa, are sessile suspension feeders that attach to exposed hard bottom and serve as foundation species for worm reefs which are complex, multifaceted habitats. While worm reefs are adapted to dynamic sedimentary environments, burial of these habitats by beach nourishment projects is a concern. This study determined duration and depth of burial that can be tolerated by P. lapidosa without death. Worm rock samples were buried in sand at 1–10 cm (1-cm intervals), and at 15, 25 and 40 cm for the duration of 72, 144, and 216 h and then surveyed for initial mortality after burial and one week after removal of sediment (latent effects). Initial mortality was similar across all burial depths for the 72-h duration with values ranging from 8.3% (±0.8 SE) for 1 cm to 24.0% (±8.0 SE) for 10 cm of sediment. As burial duration increased to 144 h, mortality generally increased as burial depth increased with an average mortality for 2 cm of sediment of 23.5% (±5.3 SE) increasing to 96.0% (±14.3 SE) with 40 cm of sediment. The mean percent mortality for burial samples in the 216 h treatment varied from a low of 71.2% (±3.3 SE) for 1 cm depth to a high of 100% (±0 SE) for 10, 15, 25, and 40 cm depths. Mortality for most treatments also increased over time after removal of sediment indicating latent effects of burial stress.  相似文献   

17.
Breakwaters with a berm can significantly reduce overtopping and reduce the required rock size compared to straight slopes without a berm. Here, the stability of rock slopes with a horizontal berm has been studied by means of physical model tests to provide information on the required rock size. The tests and analysis are focussed on the slope above the berm as well as the slope below the berm. Also the stability of the rock at the berm is addressed. The influence of the slope angle (1:2 and 1:4), the width of the berm, the level of the berm, and the wave steepness has been investigated. Based on the test results prediction formulae have been derived to quantify the required rock size for rubble mound breakwaters with a berm. Especially for the slope above the berm, the rock size can be reduced significantly compared to straight slopes.  相似文献   

18.
As reported in preceding paper (Part 1. Soil Fluidization), the observed phenomena of sediment suspensions above a fluidized sandy bed of Sand II (d50 = 0.092 mm) under monochromatic wave actions are quantitatively investigated. The suspended sediment concentration (SSC) at a single point within 5 cm above the bed was synchronously measured with water waves and bed soil's pore pressures with an intrusive optical sediment-concentration probe. The measurements show that SSC initiates several wave cycles after initiation of bed soil's fluidized response and grows to a peak value mainly in the post-fluidization phase. Under similar wave loadings in the same test series, SSC is usually higher over a resonantly fluidized (RF) bed than over a non-resonantly fluidized (NRF) bed. On the contrary, only relatively low SCC can be identified above an unfluidized bed. The analyses illustrate that to certain extent, peak values of SSC are directly proportional to the thickness of fluidized soil layer df. Values of df usually decrease with repeated fluidized response, longer consolidation periods, and in deeper water depths. Once the fluidized responses initiate, pore pressures are generally much significantly amplified in both shallow fluidized soil layers and near below the fluidized layer, especially during the resonance event. The resulting depth gradients of dynamic pore pressure amplitudes in shallow layers are likely to have caused higher initial rises of SSC in a RF bed than in the subsequent NRF bed. Those in deeper layer should have contributed to sustain the fluidization state for further SSC increments. Immediately after termination of wave loading, re-deposited suspended sediments always result in a typical flat bed form. For a pre-fluidized bed, wave-induced drastic sediment suspensions are still obtainable very near above the bed with even a rather thin fluidized surface soil layer.  相似文献   

19.
Efforts are made to enhance the predictive formula for the inception of wave breaking. To achieve success, the existing formulas are extensively reviewed. They are categorized into four types, i.e., the McCowan type, the Miche type, the Goda type and the Munk type. The inherent relations among the different types are then exploited. The differences among each formula within a group are also discussed. Four representative formulas from the different types are chosen to compare with the measured data for a total number of 1193 cases reported in literatures. It is shown that Goda's and Ostendorf and Madsen's formulas are advantageous in general among the selected ones. Goda's formula, however, is found to be inaccurate as the beach slope becomes steeper than 1/10. Ostendorf and Madsen's formula is fairly good even for cases of very steep slopes, but its accuracy for the cases of ordinary slopes is not as good as Goda's. A new predictive formula for the inception of wave breaking is proposed. The unique index, defined by ψ′b = (1.21 − 3.30λb)(1.48 − 0.54γb)ψb, where ψb = gHb/Cb2, Hb is the breaking wave height, Cb is the breaking wave celerity, λb is the breaking wave steepness, γb is the relative breaking wave height, and g is the gravity acceleration, is introduced. The incipient condition of wave breaking is then given by ψ′b = 0.69. This formula is a significant improvement to the existing ones in terms of the accuracy. In addition, it is a local relation. Further verification shows that the proposed formula performs similarly well when applied to the field and to the waves over permeable bed.  相似文献   

20.
The observed trend of peak storm surge ηmax increasing with storm size Rmax, roughly as ηmax ∞ Rmax0.22, particularly on gently sloping coasts, is discussed in relation to the simple 1D analytical solutions for forced long waves due to respectively surface pressure ps and wind stress τw. At constant depth h, the τw-driven surge is proportional to storm size while the ps-driven part is not. This could perhaps be seen to explain why the size-dependence is stronger on flatter slopes where the τw-driven surge dominates. However, this direct size dependence disappears in the sloping beach scenario if the typical depth is assumed proportional to storm size. The observed size dependence is then more likely due to a combination of two 2D effects: Firstly, the sideways radiation from a travelling surge which exceeds the “stationary height” Δp/ρg is relatively weaker for a wider system. Secondly, the wind stress field is a dipole, and the mutual cancellation of the two poles is weaker for larger systems.  相似文献   

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