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1.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(11):965-982
Tests on two fine sandy soils (d50 = 0.134 mm and 0.092 mm) under monochromatic wave actions were conducted in a wave flume of 37 m (L) by 1.2 m (H) by 1 m (W) to investigate characteristics of fluidized responses. The pore pressure measurements demonstrate only an unfluidized response in the coarser sandy bed, while in the finer one, two more feature fluidized responses. Fluidized responses are similarly classified into resonantly and non-resonantly fluidized according to Foda and Tzang [Foda, M.A., Tzang, S.-Y., 1994. Resonant fluidization of silty soil by water waves. J. Geophys. Res., 99-C10: 20463–20475.]. At a given depth, they are in principle defined by magnitude of fluidization ratio between excess pore pressure and static soil stresses and by the occurrence of a resonance event in the same test series. Inside the sandy bed, the excess pore pressures of a fluidized response are almost initiated simultaneously. Their magnitudes are essentially in static balance to the integrated weight of overlaying fluidized soil layers. Comparisons with previously reported data from a silty bed (d50 = 0.05 mm) by Foda and Tzang have immediately indicated the importance of grain fraction. With less fine constituents, surface layers of the two sandy soils are less susceptible to fluidization. Resonance mechanism is evidently diminishing in a resonantly fluidized response, and re-fluidization becomes less potential in the subsequent tests. In a resonantly fluidized response, pore pressures at a given depth would start to resonantly grow from a fluidization ratio of 7–14%. In a few wave cycles, resonant growth subsides at a fluidization ratio of greater than 50%, which value increases with depth. The analyses clearly illustrate that fluidization tends to be initiated in surface layers and fast spreads into lower layers. Fluidization is dependent on finer constituting grains, smaller shear modulus G and permeability k and thinner boundary layers in bed soils. Measurements of previous silt tests are analyzed to show that lower limits of wave steepness on resonantly fluidizing a soil bed increase linearly with relative water depth ranging from 0.13 to 0.23. Data of present fine sand tests have preliminarily confirmed the linear trend. Over a fluidized sandy bed, similar vivid sediment suspensions were observed during wave generations as had been reported in silt tests. 相似文献
2.
We have employed laboratory and numerical experiments in order to investigate propagation of waves in both long and short-crested wave fields in deep water. For long-crested waves with steepness, ϵ = kcac = 0.1 (a fairly extreme case), reliable prediction can be performed with the modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation up to about 40 characteristic wavelengths. For short-crested waves the accuracy of prediction is strongly reduced with increasing directional spread. 相似文献
3.
The paper examines the dependency between total sediment transport, q, and grain size, D (i.e. q ∝ Dp) under dam break generated swash flows. Experiments were performed in a dam break flume over a sloping mobile sand bed with median grain sizes ranging from 0.22 mm to 2.65 mm. The total sediment transport was measured by truncating the flume bed and collecting the sediment transported over the edge. The experiments were designed to exclude pre-generated turbulence and pre-suspended sediment so as to focus solely on the swash flow. The magnitude and nature of the grain size dependency (i.e. p value) were inferred for different flow parameters; the initial dam depth, do, the integrated depth averaged velocity cubed, ∫ u3dt, and against the predicted transport potential, qp, using the Meyer-Peter Muller (MPM) transport model and variations of that model. The data show that negative dependencies (p < 0) are obtained for do and qp, whilst positive dependencies (p > 0) are obtained for ∫ u3dt. This indicates that a given do and qp transport less sediment as grain size increases, whereas transport increases with grain size for a given ∫ u3dt. The p value is found to be narrowly ranged, 0.5 ≤ p ≤ − 0.5. On average, the incorporation of a pressure gradient term via the piezometric head into the MPM formulation reduces qp by 4% (fine sand) to 18% (coarse sand). The measured total transport for fine and coarse sands is best predicted using MPM and MPM + dp*/dx respectively. However, the inferred optimum transport coefficient in the MPM formulation is about 30, much higher than the standard coefficient in a steady flow and this is not due to the presence of the pre-suspended sediment. The optimum transport coefficient indicates some sensitivity to grain size, suggesting that some transport processes remain unaccounted for in the model. 相似文献
4.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(9):781-792
This paper presents results of a series of detailed measurements of geometric and migrating characteristics of ripples superimposed upon sandwaves under the action of combined waves and currents. Velocity measurements within the fluid, surface wave characteristics and 3D mapping of the bottom were recorded with an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter (ADV), an acoustic water level sensor and a 32 composite element array of sub-aquatic acoustic sensors, respectively. Bottom records were statistically analyzed to obtain height, length and migration rates of ripples. Experiments examined ripple heights and wavelengths for the mobility factors (as defined in Eq. (4)) and the Reynolds wave number within the ranges 10 < ψ < 88 and 16 × 103 < Rew < 5 × 105, respectively. Measured values were compared with laboratory and field data together with semi-empirical and analytical formulae from the literature. Good correlation was obtained when plotting measured ripple length and length in dimensionless form as a function of the Reynolds wave number Rew. Under a given hydraulic condition, it was observed that ripples with different geometric characteristics may coexist at different locations over the sandwave. Ripple steepness is presented as a function of the Shields parameter although characterized with rather large scatter. Finally, average ripple migration speed is presented as a function of the Shields parameter and the mobility number. 相似文献
5.
《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2006,53(11):1810-1830
Measurements of 234Th/238U disequilibria and particle size-fractionated (1, 10, 20, 53, 70, 100 μm) organic C and 234Th were made to constrain estimates of the export flux of particulate organic C (POC) from the surface waters of the Ligurian, Tyrrhenian and Aegean Seas in March–June 2004. POC exported from the surface waters (75–100 m depth) averaged 9.2 mmol m−2 d−1 in the Ligurian and Tyrrhenian Seas (2.3±0.5–14.9±3.0 mmol m−2 d−1) and 0.9 mmol m−2 d−1 in the Aegean Sea. These results are comparable to previous measurements of 234Th-derived and sediment-trap POC fluxes from the upper 200 m in the Mediterranean Sea. Depth variations in the POC/234Th ratio suggest two possible controls. First, decreasing POC/234Th ratios with depth were attributed to preferential remineralization of organic C. Second, the occurrence of maxima or minima in the POC/234Th ratio near the DCM suggests influence by phytoplankton dynamics. To assess the accuracy of these data, the empirical 234Th-method was evaluated by quantifying the extent to which the 234Th-based estimate of POC flux, PPOC, deviates from the true flux, FPOC, defined as the p-ratio (p-ratio=PPOC/FPOC=STh/SPOC, where S=particle sinking rate). Estimates of the p-ratio made using Stokes’ Law and the particle size distributions of organic C and 234Th yield values ranging from 0.93–1.45. The proximity of the p-ratio to unity implies that differences in the sinking rates of POC- and 234Th-carrying particles did not bias 234Th-normalized POC fluxes by more than a factor of two. 相似文献
6.
Wave–current flow is a phenomenon that is present in many practical engineering situations. Over the past several decades, this type of flow has been increasingly investigated under controlled laboratory conditions. This paper presents a numerical study of wave–current flow in the ocean basin of the LabOceano (COPPE/UFRJ). A homogeneous multiphase model based on the RANS equations and the k–ɛ turbulence model implemented in ANSYS-CFX code were used. A cross section of the ocean basin was represented. A regular wave with a height of 0.08 m and a period of 1.80 s (i.e., a wave steepness of H/L = 0.016), propagating on favourable currents, was simulated. The behaviour of the free surface elevation over time and the streamlines along the basin for wave and wave–current flows were presented. The numerical results were compared to the non-viscous theory given by the Rayleigh equation applied to the problem of wave–current interaction. Good agreement was found between the wave length estimated by the numerical results and the analytical solutions, with a deviation of less than 2%. 相似文献
7.
An experimental study, conducted in the large wave flume of CIEM in Barcelona, is presented to evaluate the effects of Posidonia oceanica meadows on the wave height damping and on the wave induced velocities. The experiments were performed for irregular waves from intermediate to shallow waters with the dispersion parameter h/λ ranging from 0.09 to 0.29. Various configurations of the artificial P. oceanica meadow were tested for two stem density patterns (360 and 180 stems/m2) and for plant's height ranging from 1/3 to 1/2 of the water depth.The results for wave height attenuation are in good agreement with the analytical expressions found in literature, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the vegetated field is due to the drag forces. Based on this hypothesis, an empirical relationship for the drag coefficient related to the Reynolds number, Re, is proposed. The Reynolds number, calculated using the artificial P. oceanica leaf width as the length scale and the maximum orbital velocity over the meadow edge as the characteristic velocity scale, ranges from 1000 to 3500 and the drag coefficient Cd ranges from 0.75 to 2.0.The calculated wave heights, using the analytical expression from literature and the proposed relationship for the estimation of Cd, are in satisfactory agreement with those measured. Wave orbital velocities are shown to be significantly attenuated inside the meadow and just above the flume bed as indicated by the calculation of an attenuation parameter. Near the meadow edge, energy transfer is found in spectral wave velocities from the longer to the shorter wave period components. From the analysis it is shown that the submerged vegetation attenuates mostly longer waves. 相似文献
8.
We describe experiments with multi-directional focused waves interacted with a vertical circular cylinder in a 3D wave basin. The focus of this study is on the run-up of multi-directional focused waves, wave forces, and wave pressures on the cylinder. Part I, the study on wave run-up, has already been presented by Li et al. (2012). In this paper, the analysis of the wave force on the vertical cylinder is presented.In this experiment, a cylinder with 0.25 m in diameter was adopted and different wave parameters, such as focused wave amplitude, peak frequency, frequency bandwidth and directional spreading index, are considered. The model scale kpa (kp is the wave number corresponding to peak frequency, a is the radium of the cylinder) varies from 0.32 to 0.65. The maximum forces of multi-directional focused wave on cylinder were measured and investigated. The results showed that the wave parameters have a significant influence on the wave force, and that the spatial profile of the surface of multi-directional focused wave can also affect its force on the cylinder, which is different from two-dimensional wave. In addition, the ‘secondary loading cycle’ phenomenon was also observed and discussed. In our experiments, the ‘secondary loading cycles’ occur when kA > 0.36 for all cases. While in some referred small scale experiments, the secondary load cycles are observed even for kA = 0.2, when the waves are longer enough. To larger model scale, the pronounced secondary load cycle occurs with larger wave steepness waves. 相似文献
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In this paper, the evolution of focused waves using different paddle displacements (piston type) under laboratory conditions is presented. It is well known that in intermediate water depths, linear paddle displacements will generate spurious, free, sub and super harmonics. Thus, a second order correction to suppress these spurious free sub and super harmonics was used to generate the focused waves. The focused waves were generated in the laboratory using a linear superimposition principle, in which the wave paddle displacement is derived based on the sum of a number of sinusoidal components at discrete frequencies, whose phases are accordingly set to focus at a particular location. For this method of generation, the second order wave maker theory proposed by Schäffer [24] can be easily adopted and was used in the present study. Two different centre frequencies (fc = 0.68 Hz and 1.08 Hz) with three different bandwidth ratios (Δf/fc = 0.5, 0.75 and 1.0) were tested in a constant water depth, to consider both narrow and broadband spectra. These test cases correspond to wave focusing packets propagating in intermediate and deep water regions. Further, for each wave packet, two different amplitudes were considered in order to analyze non-breaking and breaking cases. Thus, by systematically generating the wave packets using the linear and second order paddle displacements, the analysis was carried out for the spectral and temporal evolution of selected long waves. The temporal evolution of the selected harmonics was analyzed using the Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT), to show the propagation of the spurious, free, long waves. Further, the variations in energy for the lower, higher and primary frequency ranges are reported for different wave paddle displacements. The analysis revealed that for the broadband spectrum the differences are more pronounced when using linear paddle displacements. We have also noticed a shift in focusing/breaking location and time (i.e. premature) due to the increase in crest height using linear displacements. The experiment data used in this paper has been provided as a supplementary, which can be used to validate the numerical models. 相似文献
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12.
《Ocean Engineering》1999,26(4):363-380
A sea water intake well of size 20 m diameter and 15.5 m height in a water depth of 9.8 m is proposed north of the Visakhapatnam Port for a project to extract magnesia from sea water. A 1:25 scale model of the intake well was tested in the wave basin of the Ocean Engineering Centre, Indian Institute of Technology, Madras to measure the wave forces and moments on the intake well and the variation of water levels inside and outside the well. Accordingly, an intake well model of 0.8 m diameter and 0.62 m height was fabricated and fixed over a false bottom in a wave basin. The well model was subjected to the action of both regular waves for two test conditions, intake well inlet closed during installation and intake well inlet open. The experimental results on wave forces and moments were compared with the results of the Linear Diffraction Theory. The water level inside the well was measured to determine the submergence of suction pipes of pumps and location of the inlet opening of the intake well. The wave crest elevation in front of the well was also measured in order to fix the deck level of the well so as to avoid water overspill onto the deck. The salient results of the present study are presented and discussed in this paper. 相似文献
13.
A fully nonlinear Boussinessq-type model with several free coefficients is considered as a departure point. The model is monolayer and low order so as to simplify numerical solvability. The coefficients of the model are here considered functions of the local water depth. In doing so, we allow to improve the dispersive and shoaling properties for narrow banded wave trains in very deep waters. In particular, for monochromatic waves the dispersion and shoaling errors are bounded by ~ 2.8% up to kh = 100, being k the wave number and h the water depth. The proposed model is fully nonlinear in weakly dispersive conditions, so that nonlinear wave decomposition in shallower waters is well reproduced. The model equations are numerically solved using a fourth order scheme and tested against analytical solutions and experimental data. 相似文献
14.
《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2001,48(9):2073-2096
Sulfate reduction rate measurements by the 35SO42− core injection method were carried out in situ with a benthic lander, LUISE, and in parallel by shipboard incubations in sediments of the Black Sea. Eight stations were studied along a transect from the Romanian shelf to the deep western anoxic basin. The highest rates measured on an areal basis for the upper 0–15 cm were 1.97 mmol m−2 d−1 on the shelf and 1.54 mmol m−2 d−1 at 181 m water depth just below the chemocline. At all stations sulfate reduction rates decreased to values <3 nmol cm−3 d−1 below 15 cm depth in the sediment. The importance of sulfate reduction relative to the total mineralization of organic matter was very low, 6%, on the inner shelf, which was paved with mussels, and increased to 47% on the outer shelf at 100 m depth. Where the oxic–anoxic interface of the water column impinged on the sea floor at around 150 m depth, the contribution of sulfate reduction increased from >50% just above the chemocline to 100% just below. In the deep sea, mean sulfate reduction rates were 0.6 mmol m−2 d−1 corresponding to an organic carbon oxidation of 1.3 mmol m−2 d−1. This is close to the mean sedimentation rate of organic carbon over the year in the western basin. A comparison with published data on sulfate reduction in Black Sea sediments showed that the present results tend to be higher in shelf sediments and lower in the deep-sea than most other data. Based on the present water column H2S inventory and the H2S flux out of the sediment, the calculated turnover time of H2S below the chemocline is 2100 years. 相似文献
15.
《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2002,49(9):1651-1667
The fugacity of CO2 and abundance of chlorophyll a (Chla) were determined in two long transects from the Polar Front to the Antarctic Continent in austral summer, December 1995–January 1996. Large undersaturations of CO2 in the surface water were observed coinciding with high Chla content. In the major hydrographic regions the mean air–sea fluxes were found to range from −3 to +7 mmol m−2 d−1 making these regions act as a sink as well as a source for CO2. In the total 40-d period, the summation of the several strong source and sink regions revealed an overall modest net source of 0.3 mmol m−2 d−1, this based on the Wanninkhof (J. Geophys. Res. 97 (1992) 7373) quadratic relationship at in situ windspeed. A simple budget approach was used to quantify the role of phytoplankton blooms in the inorganic carbonate system of the Antarctic seas in a time frame spanning several weeks. The major controlling physical factors such as air–sea flux, Ekman pumping and upwelling are included. Net community production varies between −9 and +7 mmol m−2 d−1, because of the large oscillations in the dominance of autotrophic (CO2 fixation) versus heterotrophic (CO2 respiration) activity. Here the mixed layer depth is the major controlling factor. When integrated over time the gross influx and efflux of CO2 from air to sea is large, but the net residual air/sea exchange is a modest efflux from sea to atmosphere. 相似文献
16.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(1):39-48
This paper describes a simple method for modelling wave breaking over submerged structures, with the view of using such modelling approach in a coastal area morphodynamic modelling system.A dominant mechanism for dissipating wave energy over a submerged breakwater is depth-limited wave breaking. Available models for energy dissipation due to wave breaking are developed for beaches (gentle slopes) and require further modifications to model wave breaking over submerged breakwaters.In this paper, wave breaking is split into two parts, namely: 1) depth-limited breaking modelled using Battjes and Janssen's (1978) theory [Battjes, J.A. and Jannsen, J.P.F.M. (1978). Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves. Proceedings of the 16th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng., Hamburg, Germany, pp. 569-587.] and 2) steepness limited breaking modelled using an integrated form of the Hasselmann's whitecapping dissipation term, commonly used in fully spectral wind–wave models. The parameter γ2, governing the maximum wave height at incipient breaking (Hmax = γ2d) is used as calibration factor to tune numerical model results to selected laboratory measurements. It is found that γ2 varies mainly with the relative submergence depth (ratio of submergence depth at breakwater crest to significant wave height), and a simple relationship is proposed. It is shown that the transmission coefficients obtained using this approach compare favourably with those calculated using published empirical expressions. 相似文献
17.
The short-term wave characteristics are required for design and operation of industrial facilities within the coastal areas. Water surface displacement measured using waverider buoy moored at 13 m water depth in the eastern Arabian Sea off the west coast of India have been analyzed to study the short-term statistics of waves covering full one year period. The study indicates that the values of the observed maximum wave height as a function of duration are not consistent with the theoretical expected value. There is significant variation (1.29–2.19) in the ratio between highest 1% wave and significant wave height compared to the theoretical value of 1.67. The data recorded at 13 m water depth indicates that the significant wave height is ∼8% lower than that predicted by the conventional Rayleigh distribution. The theoretical bivariate log-normal distribution represents the joint distributions of wave heights and periods for the study area. 相似文献
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Based on the 45-year (09/1957-08/2008) European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Reanalysis (ERA-40) wave reanalysis dataset, this study analyzes interannual and interdecadal variabilities and intraseasonal oscillations of sea surface wind speed (WS), wind sea wave height (Hw), swell wave height (Hs) and significant wave height (Hs) in the Roaring Forties and tropical waters of the Indian Ocean, to determine swell propagation characteristics. The results show: (1) monthly variabilities of Hs in the Roaring Forties are in good agreement with those in tropical waters of the Indian Ocean; swell plays a dominant role in mixed waves throughout most of the Indian Ocean; and WS, Hw, Hs, and Hs exhibit a significant increasing trend over the 45-year study period. (2) Hs in the Roaring Forties and tropical waters of the Indian Ocean share a common period of 9.8–10.4 years on an interdecadal scale; and WS and Hs in the Roaring Forties and Hs in the tropical waters of the Indian Ocean share a common period of approximately 8 days (weekly oscillation) on an intraseasonal scale. (3) Swell of the Roaring Forties needs approximately 30 h to fully respond to the wind in this region. Approximately 84 h are required for Hs to propagate from the Roaring Forties to the tropical waters of the south Indian Ocean, while it takes approximately 132–138 h for Hs to propagate from the Roaring Forties to the tropical waters of the north Indian Ocean. 相似文献
20.
A lift based cycloidal wave energy converter (WEC) was investigated using potential flow numerical simulations in combination with viscous loss estimates based on published hydrofoil data. This type of wave energy converter consists of a shaft with one or more hydrofoils attached eccentrically at a radius. The main shaft is aligned parallel to the wave crests and submerged at a fixed depth. The operation of the WEC as a wave-to-shaft energy converter interacting with straight crested waves was estimated for an actual ocean wave climate. The climate chosen was the climate recorded by a buoy off the north-east shore of Oahu/Hawaii, which was a typical moderate wave climate featuring an average annual wave power PW = 17 kWh/m of wave crest. The impact of the design variables radius, chord, span and maximum generator power on the average annual shaft energy yield, capacity factor and power production time fraction were explored. In the selected wave climate, a radius R = 5 m, chord C = 5 m and span of S = 60 m along with a maximum generator power of PG = 1.25 MW were found to be optimal in terms of annual shaft energy yield. At the design point, the CycWEC achieved a wave-to-shaft power efficiency of 70%. In the annual average, 40% of the incoming wave energy was converted to shaft energy, and a capacity factor of 42% was achieved. These numbers exceeded the typical performance of competing renewables like wind power, and demonstrated that the WEC was able to convert wave energy to shaft energy efficiently for a range of wave periods and wave heights as encountered in a typical wave climate. 相似文献