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本文通过汇泉湾浴场的环境调查资料的分析,对汇泉湾海滩的形态和变化、水下沙坝的形成机制以及砾石滩问题进行了初步探讨,并对海滩的保护,砾石滩的改造问题提出了建议。 相似文献
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通过物理模型实验研究了海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的形成和演化过程,给出了稳定的沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的几何特征。实验中考虑了两种初始坡度(1∶20和1∶10)和不同波高的规则波和不规则波,讨论了不同初始坡度海岸上破碎波空间分布特征。结果表明,沙坝产生后存在向岸和离岸两种运动形态,但最终将停留在稳定位置。稳定的沙坝剖面对应不同初始坡度和波浪存在不同的大沙坝和小沙坝分布。沙坝剖面由长时间小波高波浪序列作用后可转化为稳定滩肩剖面,该剖面不依赖于波浪和初始坡度。实验也给出了平衡剖面与理论曲线的对比以及剖面上泥沙粒径的分布。 相似文献
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关于水下沙坝的成因问题目前已有几种论点。本文所指的“沙咀状水下沙坝”是在汇泉湾中分布的、形态上类似于沙咀、沙坝脊线处于不同高程上的水下沙坝(图1)。这种沙坝在青岛附近的某些海湾内也有发育。在开发利用青岛海滨的可行性研究中,我们对这种沙坝进行了综合性的调查研究。发现其形态有别于一般水下沙坝,用以往的关于沙 相似文献
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泉州湾波浪分布特征研究 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
本文通过对福建泉州湾内实测波浪资料的统计分析,阐述了湾内波浪随季节变化的分布特征及生成机制,综合分析了湾内波型的周年分布特征及各波要素间的相关关系,讨论了台风期间湾内波浪的演变过程。认为海湾内的波浪除受季风影响外,更主要的是受外海传入的海浪的影响。 相似文献
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青岛海滩沉积构造及其底形特征 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
通过对青岛汇泉湾垂直剖面沉积构造的分析,揭示了汇泉湾的沙坝一泻湖沉积体系的形成与演化过程;对山东头海滩典型剖面及沉积构造、流清河剖面及海滩底形进行了调查与分析,研究了青岛东部海岸的现代沉积环境。 相似文献
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基于人工沙坝影响波浪破碎的理论分析,采用极端高水位、设计高水位和0.00m水位下的极限波高作为入射波,对近岸人工沙坝进行了模拟试验,研究波浪动力对人工沙坝剖面的变形及其对岸滩养护的影响。结果表明:坝顶水深和沙坝高度之比h/d决定沙坝的稳定性,h/d较小时,沙坝能接近稳定;沙坝的变形与坝前波浪破碎有关,可用坝顶水深和临界水深之比h/hb判定波浪在沙坝上的破碎;近岸人工沙坝使波浪提前破碎,滩肩拓宽,使泥沙向岸输移大于向海输移,减小岸滩侵蚀区域,增大淤积范围。 相似文献
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全球海岸生态系统正遭受气候变化及人类活动带来的威胁, 本文基于沙坝-潟湖系统海岸典型剖面形态, 通过设计实施动床波浪水槽试验, 定量研究了侵蚀浪条件下沉水植被对该系统海岸冲淤的影响。结果表明: 沉水植被明显削弱了沙坝前坡波浪破碎区前缘的波高增大幅度, 并使坝后波高衰减; 植被作用使波浪反射和透射系数减小、耗散系数增大; 侵蚀浪作用下, 沙坝坝顶冲刷较明显, 潟湖内呈淤积趋势, 海岸前丘受波浪冲刷呈陡坎形态。植被影响下沙坝和前丘区域最大侵蚀厚度均减小; 植被可减少沙坝净侵蚀量、潟湖内淤积量及离岸输沙量, 对海岸前丘有较好的保护作用。 相似文献
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砂质海滩剖面形态受到泥沙粒径、海洋动力的影响。自然或人工海滩一般由粒径不同的级配泥沙组成,其海滩剖面形态应与海滩砂的级配有关。本文用不同粒径和级配的砂铺设海滩,进行了不同波浪动力作用下滩形形成的水槽试验,探究海滩剖面与波浪动力、泥沙粒径以及级配之间的关系。结果表明:波高越大越容易形成沙坝型剖面,波高越小越容易形成滩肩型剖面,沙床粒径越细,泥沙横向输移量越大,沙坝宽度越大,沙坝位置更为向海,滩肩更为向岸;波周期越大,滩肩位置越容易淤积;级配沙床中,对沙坝形态起主要影响作用的为粗颗粒泥沙。试验得到的水下沙坝形态参数奎利根比并非已有研究给出的定值,与泥沙组成和波参数有关。 相似文献
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通过波浪水槽实验,对海平面变化造成的波浪动力因素改变引起的沙质岸滩形态响应开展机理性研究。实验采用1∶10单一沙质斜坡概化岸滩,利用3种不同实验水深模拟海平面变化,考虑椭圆余弦波、非规则波、规则波和孤立波4种类型波浪作用。实验对波浪在斜坡上的传播变形、破碎、上爬和回落过程的波高及波浪作用后的岸滩地形进行了测量。实验结果表明,椭圆余弦波、规则波和非规则波作用下,平衡岸滩呈现出滩肩形态,孤立波作用下则呈沙坝形态。海平面上升造成波浪动力增强,沙质岸滩平衡剖面形状基本保持不变向岸平移,槽谷、滩肩、沙坝位置以及岸线蚀退距离,均呈现出良好规律性。 相似文献
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A.F. Velegrakis M.I. VousdoukasA.M. Vagenas Th. KarambasK. Dimou Th. Zarkadas 《Coastal Engineering》2007
This short contribution reports the results of a field study on the nearshore characteristics of waves generated by both conventional and high speed passenger ferries. The field observations took place in the late summer of 2005, at a beach close to the port of Mytilene (Island of Lesbos, Greece), and involved the visual observation of ship waves, using digital video recordings and image processing techniques. The results showed that passage of the fast ferry was associated with a longer, more complex and energetic nearshore event; this event not only did include higher nearshore waves (up to 0.74 m) and was organised in different wave packets, but it was also an order of magnitude longer (∼ 680 s) than the conventional ferry event. Regarding the effects on beach sediment dynamics, the fast ferry waves were estimated to be very efficient in mobilising the nearshore sediments in contrast to those of the conventional ferry. The fast ferry service appears to generate daily prolonged nearshore events, which contain waves with higher energy than those expected from the normal summer wind wave regime of the area; these events also include some high and very steep waves, which can be particularly erosive. Therefore, fast ferry wakes may have considerable impacts on the seasonal beach sediment dynamics/morphodynamics and the nearshore benthic ecology, as well as they may pose significant risks to bathers, affecting the recreational use of the beaches exposed to fast ferry traffic. Finally, the study has shown that satisfactory field observations of the nearshore characteristics of ship-generated (and wind) waves can be obtained using inshore deployments of calibrated poles, digital video cameras and appropriate image processing algorithms. 相似文献
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The measurements by using ADCP (500 KH) and CTD were made during August 2000 in the south (37°55''N, 120°25''E) of the Bohai Sea, where the water depth was about 16.5m. The data of horizontal velocity with sampling interval of 2 min in 7 layers were obtained. The power spec-trum analysis of these data indicates that there are very energetic infragrvity waves with a period of about 6 min. The coherence spetrum analysis and the analysis of temporal variation of shear show that these infragravity waves are mainly the free wave model (properties of edge waves), in the meantimethey possess some characteristics of internal waves, which are likely due to the distinctive marine environment in this area. It is speculated on that the instability processes (chiefly shear instability) of sheared stratified tidal flow owing to the effect of sea-floor slope in the coastal area might be the main mechanism generating these infragravity waves. 相似文献
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Water waves induce a slow drift of an object floating on the water surface. In this study, we examined, by a series of laboratory experiments, the drift motion of small rigid floating objects driven by regular waves in deep water. Different shapes of planar objects, including square, circular and elliptical, were investigated for two different submergences, and their drift motions in waves were determined using an infrared motion monitoring system. The corresponding measurements enabled the quantification of the drift characteristics with respect to the wave characteristics and object shapes. Numerical simulations based on an existing theory were presented and comparisons between the experimental data and the predictions by the existing theory were performed. 相似文献
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Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice. 相似文献
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台湾岛邻近海域台风浪的模拟研究 总被引：8，自引：0，他引：8
基于目前国际上较为先进的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN（Simulation Waves Near-shore)。在充分考虑相关物理过程（风生浪，底摩擦，白帽耗散，深度诱导波破碎，非线性波－波相互作用）基础上，以较高的分辨率对影响台湾岛邻近海域的9015号台风浪过程进行了模拟研究。模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型同化相应台风资料后提供；用自嵌套方式提供模式波谱边界条件。模拟结果与实际台风浪资料相符较好。台风过程模拟结果表明；台风中心位于台湾岛邻近海域的不同位置，台风浪有效波高的分布特征和传播方向都有着较大的差异。可以为整个台湾岛邻近海域台风浪分布特征的了解与认识提供较好的参考。 相似文献
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Past studies of harbor resonance have mainly been restricted to the quasi-steady oscillations induced by steady wave conditions. This paper investigates the response of a rectangular harbor to subaerial landslide-generated impact waves based on physical models, in order to compare the oscillations induced by steady and transient waves. In response to steady incident waves, oscillations within the harbor need to experience a long process to obtain their maximum value before the input energy and the losses are balanced. Landslide-generated impact waves usually include components with solitary wave characteristics and also components with dispersive wave characteristics. Each component travels with a different celerity. Usually, solitary wave components propagate faster, and arrive in the harbor first. Oscillations attain their maximum status as soon as these components arrive. The subsequently arriving components with dispersive characteristics do not enhance the resonance oscillations. So the waves with solitary characteristics are considered to play an important role in harbor resonance. Numerical experiments, using the FUNWAVE model, were conducted in order to further verify these conclusions. 相似文献
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Recent progress in formulating Boussinesq-type equations includes improved features of linear dispersion and higher-order nonlinearity. Nonlinear characteristics of these equations have been previously analysed on the assumption of weak nonlinearity, being therefore limited to moderate wave height. The present work addresses this aspect for an important class of wave problems, namely, regular waves of permanent form on a constant depth. Using a numerical procedure which is valid up to the maximum wave height, permanent-form waves admitted by three sets of advanced Boussinesq-type equations are analysed. Further, the characteristics of each set of the Boussinesq-type equations are discussed in the light of those from the potential theory satisfying the exact free-surface conditions. Phase velocity, amplitude dispersion, harmonic amplitudes (namely, second and third) and skewness of surface profile are shown over a two-parameter space of frequency and wave height. 相似文献
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为了研究真实海洋表面马蹄波特性以及对建筑物的作用,通过物理模型实验研究了马蹄波的波形特征参数以及马蹄波对圆柱体的作用。实验中通过对浪高仪采集的波面升高时间历程曲线进行分析得出了不同水深情况下马蹄波的垂向几何特征,并通过快速傅里叶变换得出了马蹄波波幅谱的特征,研究了马蹄波各组成波波幅沿空间的变化从而得出了圆柱存在对马蹄波演化的影响,同时给出马蹄波绕射形成的波面分布和不同频率谐波在圆柱周围的分布,讨论了马蹄波不同于Stokes波对圆柱作用的特征。结果表明,马蹄波波形受水深影响较大,水深越浅,马蹄波的波面形状越接近椭圆余弦波。圆柱体的存在干扰了马蹄波不稳定的增长,使其在接近圆柱时呈下降趋势,导致不稳定幅值最大值的位置提前并且出现在偏离圆柱迎浪点的侧表面,从而使圆柱受到侧向力的作用。 相似文献
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三维极限波的产生方法及特性 总被引：11，自引：2，他引：9
极限破碎波浪是造成海洋结构物破坏的主要因素之一,对极限波浪的产生方法和特性进行研究具有重要的工程意义.利用长波传播快、短波传播慢的原理,从理论上给出了产生三维极限波的方法,利用基于Boussinesq方程的数值模拟对该方法进行了验证,同时研究了中心频率、频率宽度和频谱形式等对极限波浪特性的影响,为该方法的进一步应用提出了建议. 相似文献