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1.
Nancy L. Jackson 《Estuaries and Coasts》1999,22(2):215-223
Predicting erosion and accretion of sand beaches in estuaries is important to managing shoreline development and identifying
potential relationships between biological productivity and beach change. Wave, sediment and profile data, gathered over twenty-nine
days on an estuarine sand beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, were used to evaluate the performance of four criteria that predict
beach erosion and accretion due to wave-induced cross-shore sediment movement (Dean 1973; Sunamura and Horikawa 1974; Hattori
and Kawamata 1980; Kraus et al. 1991). Each criterion defines a relation, between a wave and sediment parameter, and includes
a coefficient that discriminates beach erosion and accretion events. Relations, based on small-scale laboratory and field
data, were evaluated for predicting erosion or accretion at the study site. Significant wave heights at the study site, monitored
near high water, ranged from 0.08 to 0.52 m with periods of 2.4 to 12.8 s. Median grain sizes of sediments on the beach foreshore,
gathered at low water, ranged from 0.33 to 0.73 mm. All four criteria showed a clustering of erosion and accretion events.
Relations derived from small-scale laboratory data were better predictors of erosion on the profile at the field site than
those derived from field data gathered on exposed ocean environments. The planar profile and dominance of incident waves of
low height and short period are similar to laboratory conditions characterized by initial planar beach slopes and monochromatic
waves. Decreasing the value of the empirical coefficient to account for the differences in the magnitude of wave energy and
grain size increases the performance of the criteria tested to predict erosion of the profile. 相似文献
2.
Nalin Prasanna Ratnayake Amila Sandaruwan Ratnayake P. V. Keegle M. A. K. M. Mallawa Arachchi H. M. R. Premasiri 《Environmental Earth Sciences》2018,77(1):24
Man-made coastal structures directly affect sediment balance and sediment dynamics on the surrounding beaches. The Colombo Harbor Expansion Project has created about 5-km-long breakwater nearly perpendicular to the beach. The present study is focused on quantitatively and qualitatively analyzing the effect of the Colombo Harbor Expansion Project on economically important beaches in and around Colombo city area. In this study, the authors measured monthly variations of beach width, beach profile and the mean grain-size of the sediments at mean sea level for complete annual monsoon cycle. Data were analyzed to establish site-specific erosion vulnerability. Monitoring results show that cumulative beach erosion has increased after the construction of the breakwater (rate = 0.7 m/year from May 2000 to April 2011 and rate = 28.2 m/year from April 2011 to June 2012). In addition, the cumulative and site-specific sand accretion and erosion patterns have a clear relationship with the monsoon seasonality. Beaches were narrower during the stormy southwestern monsoon, whereas beaches were wider during fair weather of northeast monsoon and inter-monsoon periods. In contrast, the constructed breakwater obstructs natural longshore sediment dynamics. For example, a significant amount of sediments from the Kelani-Ganga River were buried in the Colombo Harbor due to alteration of prominent longshore sediments transportation on the western coast of Sri Lanka. Therefore, this study shows enhancement of coastal erosion in the studied southern beaches due to a lack of sediment deposition. 相似文献
3.
Mahmoud M. El Banna 《Environmental Geology》2007,52(1):41-49
Beach profile data, covering the coast of Ras El Bar, northeast Nile Delta, collected during the years from 1990 to 2002 combined
with landsat images for the area and sedimentological investigation have been used to identify beach and nearshore seafloor
sediment changes. Along the coast of Ras El Bar, two accretion sectors and one of erosion have been recognized. The first
accretion sector is located west of Damietta harbour, where the harbour jetties have halted the littoral transport, while
the second one is behind a system of detached breakwaters protecting Ras El Bar resort. Both the two sectors are characterized
by growing shoreline with maximum rates ∼15 and 10 m/year, respectively. Also, they have maximum nearshore seafloor accretion
rates of ∼18 and 22 cm/year, respectively. The erosion sector is located east of Damietta port and has a maximum rate of shoreline
retreat ∼−10 m/year. Erosion of its nearshore seafloor is indicated recording a maximum rate of ∼−20 cm/year. The rate of
net sediment volume change in the area indicates shifting of the accretion sector (II) westward, responding to installation
of the new breakwaters unit. The two accretion sectors are characterized by dominance of moderately sorted fine sands in their
shore area which change seaward into less sorting very fine sands. Beach sands of the eroded sector are poorly sorted medium
grain size. The dominant constituents of heavy mineral species in beach and sea-bottom sands are the characteristic assemblages
of the Nile deposits. The sands of the eroded zone are relatively enriched in monazite, zircon, tourmaline, garnet, and rutile. 相似文献
4.
Twenty three bathymetric profiles up to a depth of 28 m were surveyed along and across the western inner shelf off the Nile delta. These surveys were conducted during 1919/22, 1976/77 and 1986. Comparison of these profiles establish that there are significant delta-wide changes in the patterns of erosion and accretion that correspond to sediment movement resulting from the prevailing dynamic factors affecting this area. Maximum bottom erosion (negative relief deformation) was detected along Abu Quir bay, on the tip of the Rosetta promontory, along both sides of the Rosetta mouth, and along the Burullus-Baltim coast. In contrast, there has been maximum bottom accretion (positive relief deformation) at Abu Quir cape and at Abu Khashaba. The sources of the accreted sediment probably come from areas of beach erosion as well as from offshore due to the combined effect of the offshore-onshore exchange. 相似文献
5.
This study evaluates the impacts resulting from the construction of two large-scale detached breakwater systems on the Nile delta coast of Egypt at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches (~18.3 km shoreline length). The two protective systems were installed in a water depth of between 3 and 4 m and consist of 17 units in total (each ~250 m long). A comprehensive monitoring program spanning the years 1990 to 2002 was implemented and included beach-nearshore profiles, grain size distribution of seabed sand and information related to the background coastal processes. Evaluation of these systems concentrates on the physical impacts on coastal morphodynamics, mitigation and their design implications. The beach and nearshore sedimentation (erosion/accretion patterns) and grain texture of seabed sediment in the study areas have been substantially disrupted due to the interruption of longshore transport by the shore-parallel detached breakwaters. Rate of shoreline and seabed changes as well as alongshore sediment volume have been substantially affected, resulting in accretion in the breakwater landward sides (tombolo or salient) followed by downdrift erosion. The preconstruction beach erosion at Baltim (–5 m/year) and at Ras El Bar (–6 m/year) has been replaced, respectively, by the formation of sand tombolo (35 m/year) and salient (9 m/year). On the other hand, beach erosion has been substantially increased in the downdrift sides of these protective systems, being –20 m/year at Baltim and –9 m/year at Ras El Bar. Further seaward, the two protective systems at Baltim and Ras El Bar have accumulated seabed sand at maximum rates of 30 and 20 cm/year and associated with downdrift erosion of –45 and –20 cm/year, respectively. Strong gyres and eddies formed in the breakwater gabs have drastically affected swimmers and subsequently caused a significant number of drownings each summer, averaging 35 and 67 victims/year at Baltim and Ras El Bar beaches, respectively. This study provides baseline information needed to help implement mitigation measures for these breakwater systems. 相似文献
6.
Quantifying rates of coastal progradation from sediment volume using GPR and OSL: the Holocene fill of Guichen Bay, south-east South Australia 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Guichen Bay on the south‐east coast of South Australia faces west towards the prevailing westerly winds of the Southern Ocean. The bay is backed by a 4 km wide Holocene beach‐ridge plain with more than 100 beach ridges. The morphology of the Guichen Bay strandplain complex shows changes in the width, length, height and orientation of beach ridges. A combination of geomorphological interpretation, shallow geophysics and existing geochronology is used to interpret the Holocene fill of Guichen Bay. Six sets of beach ridges are identified from the interpretation of orthorectified aerial photographs. The ridge sets are distinguished on the basis of beach‐ridge orientation and continuity. A 2·25 km ground‐penetrating radar (GPR) profile across the beach ridges reveals the sedimentary structures and stratigraphic units. The beach ridges visible in the surface topography are a succession of stabilized foredunes that overlie progradational foreshore and upper shoreface sediments. The beach progrades show multiple truncation surfaces interpreted as storm events. The GPR profile shows that there are many more erosion surfaces in the subsurface than beach ridges on the surface. The width and dip of preserved beach progrades imaged by GPR shows that the shoreface has steepened from around 2·9° to around 7·5°. The changes in beach slope are attributed to increasing wave energy associated with beach progradation into deeper water as Guichen Bay was infilled. At the same time, the thickness of the preserved beach progrades increases slightly as the beach prograded into deeper water. Using the surface area of the ridge sets measured from the orthophotography, and the average thickness of upper shoreface, foreshore and coastal dune sands interpreted from the GPR profile, the volume of Holocene sediments within three of the six sets of beach‐ridge accretion has been calculated. Combining optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) ages and volume calculations, rates of sediment accumulation for Ridge Sets 3, 4 and 5 have been estimated. Linear rates of beach‐ridge progradation appear to decrease in the mid‐Holocene. However, the rates of sediment accumulation calculated from beach volumes have remained remarkably consistent through the mid‐ to late Holocene. This suggests that sediment supply to the beach has been constant and that the decrease in the rate of progradation is due to increasing accommodation space as the beach progrades into deeper water. Changes in beach‐ridge morphology and orientation reflect environmental factors such as changes in wave climate and wind regime. 相似文献
7.
The responses of a sandy beach to the southwest monsoonal waves are studied based on biweekly observations. The onslaught
of the first spell of monsoonal breakers causes maximum erosion in the sub-aerial section of the beach. However, further spells
of high breakers do not affect this zone significantly. The erosion in the sub-aerial zone is followed by accretion in the
nearshore zone and vice versa. Whereas the sub-aerial zone has a net erosion the total section of the beach including the
nearshore zone shows near equilibrium condition. It is concluded that in spite of erosion or accretion of the sub-aerial zone,
equilibrium conditions may be found in the total section of the beach. 相似文献
8.
近年来频发的海啸灾害造成巨大损失,而红树林具有很好的减小海啸灾害的作用。实验采用PVC圆管来概化模拟红树林,以无黏性沙堆砌而成1/10~1/20组合坡概化岸滩,选取孤立波模拟海啸波。实验结果表明,红树林的存在对岸滩剖面变化产生了较大影响,适当增加植物分布密度,并优化植物的分布方式,可有效减小海啸波对岸滩的冲刷危害。在本次实验条件下,得到了岸滩冲刷坑尺度、淤积沙坝尺度、最大冲刷深度、最大淤积高度与红树林的分布方式和密度、海啸波波高、泥沙比重和岸滩坡度之间的关系式,揭示了沙质岸滩剖面变化与红树林、海啸波水动力特性、泥沙颗粒、岸滩坡度之间的内在联系,为减小海啸灾害提供科学依据。 相似文献
9.
Aerial photographs taken in the 1963 and 2001 and bathymetric charts, in conjunction with coastal processes are analyzed to assess changes in rate of shoreline position, seabed level, and seabed grain sizes along the Tabarka–Berkoukech beach at the north-western Tunisian coastline. The littoral cell of this beach, 12-km-long, is bounded by pronounced embayments and rocky headlands separated by sandy stretches. Although not yet very much undeveloped, this littoral is still experienced degradation and modification, especially along its shoreline, with significant coastal erosion at some places. Results obtained from analysis of shoreline position indicate that El Morjene Beach is experienced a landward retreat of more than −62 m, at a maximum rate of −1.64 m/year, whereas the El corniche beach is advanced about 16–144 m, at an average rate of 0.42 m–3.78 m/year. This beach accretion has been formed on the updrift side of the Tabarka port constructed between 1966 and 1970. Comparison of bottom contours deduced from bathymetric charts surveyed in 1881 and 1996 off the coastline between Tabarka Port and El Morjene Beach identifies erosional areas (sediment source) and accretionary zones (sediment sink). Erosion (0.87–4.35 cm/year) occurs between El kebir River Mouth and El Morjene beach, whereas accretion exists in the zone down wind of the port ranges between 0.87 and 5.21 cm/year. Morphological analyses of the shoreline and the seabed of the study nearshore area indicate that shoreline retreat corresponds to areas of seabed scour (sediment source) while shoreline accretion is associated with areas of seabed deposition (sediment sink). Furthermore, simulation of wave propagation using STWAVE model combined with grain size distributions of the seabed shows that fine sands are much dominated in depositional areas with low wave energy, whereas coarser sands in erosive zones with high wave energy. The results obtained suggest that the change of seabed morphology, wave height pattern and grain size sediment have a great influence on the modification of shoreline morphology and dynamics. 相似文献
10.
This work presents the results of a beach-monitoring program carried out in the Bay of Cadiz (SW Spain), which consists of
urban, natural and nourished beaches. In the present study, 24 topographic profiles have been monthly monitored during the
1996–1998 period, in order to draw the morphodynamic behavior of this coast and the general characterization of short-term
coastal trends. This way, total volumetric budgets have been calculated for each beach profile in order to group beaches in
different erosive/accreting sectors. Studied beaches recorded both erosion and accretion: the greatest accretionary trends
have been observed at Aguadulce, La Costilla and Rota beaches, with values ranging from 30 to 70 m3/m. The largest erosion episodes have been recorded in the southernmost end of Valdelagrana spit, with values over 50 m3/m, and in Rota and Vistahermosa, after nourishment works. Main erosion and accretion pathways have been related to the existence
of natural and human structures, which blocked the longshore drift suggesting the existence of littoral cells. 相似文献
11.
Beach erosion under rising sea‐level modulated by coastal geomorphology and sediment availability on carbonate reef‐fringed island coasts 
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下载免费PDF全文 Bradley M. Romine Charles H. Fletcher L. Neil Frazer Tiffany R. Anderson 《Sedimentology》2016,63(5):1321-1332
This study addresses gaps in understanding the relative roles of sea‐level change, coastal geomorphology and sediment availability in driving beach erosion at the scale of individual beaches. Patterns of historical shoreline change are examined for spatial relationships to geomorphology and for temporal relationships to late‐Holocene and modern sea‐level change. The study area shoreline on the north‐east coast of Oahu, Hawaii, is characterized by a series of kilometre‐long beaches with repeated headland‐embayed morphology fronted by a carbonate fringing reef. The beaches are the seaward edge of a carbonate sand‐rich coastal strand plain, a common morphological setting in tectonically stable tropical island coasts. Multiple lines of geological evidence indicate that the strand plain prograded atop a fringing reef platform during a period of late‐Holocene sea‐level fall. Analysis of historical shoreline changes indicates an overall trend of erosion (shoreline recession) along headland sections of beach and an overall trend of stable to accreting beaches along adjoining embayed sections. Eighty‐eight per cent of headland beaches eroded over the past century at an average rate of ?0·12 ± 0·03 m yr?1. In contrast, 56% of embayed beaches accreted at an average rate of 0·04 ± 0·03 m yr?1. Given over a century of global (and local) sea‐level rise, the data indicate that embayed beaches are showing remarkable resiliency. The pattern of headland beach erosion and stable to accreting embayments suggests a shift from accretion to erosion particular to the headland beaches with the initiation of modern sea‐level rise. These results emphasize the need to account for localized variations in beach erosion related to geomorphology and alongshore sediment transport in attempting to forecast future shoreline change under increasing sea‐level rise. 相似文献
12.
Omran E. Frihy 《Arabian Journal of Geosciences》2017,10(5):109
An analysis of beach morphodynamics and relative vulnerability to erosion processes and sea inundation within the Nile delta’s lower coastal plain was performed as a basis for evaluation of future planning initiatives undertaken by the National Centre for Planning State Land Uses (NCPSLU). The conceptual management plans incorporate a variety of land-use plans including residential, recreational, industrial, agricultural, harboring, fish farming, and placer sand mining. Appropriateness of shores fronting the planned land uses is assessed in the present study by applying the Coastal Vulnerability Index (CVI) approach, which depends primarily on a variety of variables that affect beach stability of the proposed plans. These variables are prominent morphologic features, shoreline erosion or accretion rates, sea-level rise, beach type (dissipative, reflective, or rhythmic bar), and oceanographic conditions (tidal range and mean wave height). Results disclosed that not all of the examined delta coastlines are equally vulnerable to beach erosion (ranging from relatively low to highly susceptible). However, the most serious threat is that the relatively stable coastlines lying close to nodal points are likely to be affected by erosion due to net sediment transport reversals heading eastward or westward which eventually may require remedial protection. Future planning of the unprotected highly vulnerable and low-elevated subsiding zones, such as Manzala lagoon barrier, requires effective mitigation measures. Quarrying of Abu Khashaba beach, as an example, for mineral mining placers (at Abu Khashaba) and other fish farming applications (possibly at Burullus lagoon barrier) is considered as a risk and is to be avoided as it accelerates eroding the natural protective barrier that fronts the Burullus lagoon. 相似文献
13.
The largest plain in the North Vietnam has formed by the redundant sediment of the Red River system. Sediment supply is not equally distributed, causing erosion in some places. The paper analyzes the evolvement and physical mechanism of the erosion. The overlay of five recent topographical maps (1930, 1965, 1985, 1995, and 2001) shows that sediment redundantly deposits at some big river mouths (Ba Lat, Lach, and Day), leading to rapid accretion (up to 100 m/y). Typical mechanism of delta propagation is forming and connecting sand bars in front of the mouths. Erosion coasts are distributed either between the river mouths (Hai Hau) or nearby them (Giao Long, Giao Phong, and Nghia Phuc). The evolvement of erosion is caused by wave-induced longshore southwestward sediment transport. Meanwhile sediment from the river mouths is not directed to deposit nearshore. The development of sand bars can intensively reduce the erosion rate nearby river mouths. Erosion in Hai Hau is accelerated by sea level rise and upstream dams. Sea dike stability is seriously threatened by erosion-induced lowering of beach profiles, sea level rise, typhoon, and storm surge. 相似文献
14.
基于近60年（1959—2018年）系列水下地形资料，研究九段沙成形以来的地貌演化特征和动力成因。结果表明:九段沙1959—1990年处于稳速淤涨、以低滩为主的自然演化状态；近30年（1990—2018年），0 m及以上高滩受植被生长和长江口深水航道治理工程作用快速淤涨，-1~-2 m滩面受干扰程度小、稳速淤涨；近20年（1998—2018年），-3 m及以下低滩受流域减沙和临近的大型涉水工程影响淤涨放缓并由淤积转冲刷，期间流域减沙使得九段沙淤积放缓滩地由低到高向上延伸。未来流域来沙可能进一步下降并维持在较低水平，九段沙将面临-3 m及以下低滩进一步冲蚀，-3 m以上滩地淤积放缓并由低到高逐渐转冲的风险。 相似文献
15.
基于近60年（1959—2018年）系列水下地形资料，研究九段沙成形以来的地貌演化特征和动力成因。结果表明：九段沙1959—1990年处于稳速淤涨、以低滩为主的自然演化状态；近30年（1990—2018年），0 m及以上高滩受植被生长和长江口深水航道治理工程作用快速淤涨，-1~-2 m滩面受干扰程度小、稳速淤涨；近20年（1998—2018年），-3 m及以下低滩受流域减沙和临近的大型涉水工程影响淤涨放缓并由淤积转冲刷，期间流域减沙使得九段沙淤积放缓滩地由低到高向上延伸。未来流域来沙可能进一步下降并维持在较低水平，九段沙将面临-3 m及以下低滩进一步冲蚀，-3 m以上滩地淤积放缓并由低到高逐渐转冲的风险。 相似文献
16.
Beach erosion has advanced in many countries of the world, especially in Japan, because of a decrease in sediment sources from rivers and a lack of longshore sediment transport from the adjacent coasts due to coastal structures. The former cause concerns the reduction of river deltas due to a decrease in sediment input from the river. Two timescales important in beach erosion, a longer timescale which concerns a change in the location of the river mouth, and a shorter one which is due to a decrease in longshore sediment transport, are discussed in the formation and reduction of the delta of the Kurobe River. Based on these timescales, beach erosion control is considered. 相似文献
17.
全面准确评估海滩的时空演变,是海滩侵蚀防护的前提;基于卫星图像资源全面准确评估海滩的时空演变,对于缺乏长期连续实测数据的海滩的侵蚀防护具有重要意义。本研究基于谷歌地球引擎合成并下载灵南海滩(灵山湾南部海滩)1984—2021年的880幅卫星图像,聚焦海滩剖面提取干湿线和水边线在剖面上的位置;结合模拟潮位分析海滩剖面形态,计算海滩坡度和平均高、低潮线等,采用多指标研究灵南海滩的时空演变;结合历史资料分析影响灵南海滩演变的主要因素,并利用海滩实测数据评估利用卫星图像提取的海滩岸线的误差。结果表明,大量卫星图像的应用提高了研究结果的时间分辨率、精度和可靠性。在1984—2021年间,灵南海滩部分岸段发生了阶段性快速侵蚀,侵蚀速率为5.2~60 m/a,总侵蚀量达30~78 m,持续时间为0.5~11年,该快速侵蚀主要是挖沙、养殖场改建和废弃等人为因素造成的,风暴潮起次要的辅助作用。除上述快速侵蚀时段外,灵南海滩普遍发生慢速侵蚀,侵蚀速率一般小于2 m/a,这是相对海平面上升和河流入海泥沙锐减等的结果。 相似文献
18.
The structure and development of foredunes on a locally prograding coast: insights from ground-penetrating radar surveys, Norfolk, UK 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
The internal structure of coastal foredunes from three sites along the north Norfolk coast has been investigated using ground‐penetrating radar (GPR), which provides a unique insight into the internal structure of these dunes that cannot be achieved by any other non‐destructive or geophysical technique. Combining geomorphological and geophysical investigations into the structure and morphology of these coastal foredunes has enabled a more accurate determination of their development and evolution. The radar profiles show the internal structures, which include foreslope accretion, trough cut and fill, roll‐over and beach deposits. Foredune ridges contain large sets of low‐angle cross‐stratification from dune foreslope accretion with trough‐shaped structures from cut and fill on the crest and rearslope. Foreslope accretion indicates sand supply from the beach to the foreslope, while troughs on the dune crest and rearslope are attributed to reworking by offshore winds. Bounding surfaces between dunes are clearly resolved and reveal the relative chronology of dune emplacement. Radar sequence boundaries within dunes have been traced below the water‐table passing into beach erosion surfaces. These are believed to result from storm activity, which erodes the upper beach and dunes. In one example, at Brancaster, a dune scarp and erosion surface may be correlated with erosion in the 1950s, possibly the 1953 storm. Results suggest that dune ridge development is intimately linked to changes in the shoreline, with dune development associated with coastal progradation while dunes are eroded during storms and, where beaches are eroding, a stable coast provides more time for dune development, resulting in higher foredune ridges. A model for coastal dune evolution is presented, which illustrates stages of dune development in response to beach evolution and sand supply. In contrast to many other coastal dune fields where the prevailing wind is onshore, on the north Norfolk coast, the prevailing wind is directed along the coast and offshore, which reduces the landward migration of sand dunes. 相似文献
19.
A. Merlotto G. R. Bértola F. I. Isla L. C. Cortizo M. C. Piccolo 《Environmental Earth Sciences》2014,71(3):1213-1225
The short and medium-term coastal evolution of Necochea Municipality, Buenos Aires province (Argentina) was studied. The medium-term evolution study was based on aerial photographs from 1967 and 1984, and satellite images from 2004, using the dune or cliff toe as coastline indicator. The short-term evolution was studied from February 2006 to December 2009 by means of seasonal beach profiles and sediment sampling. Results showed that in the medium-term at Necochea, the coastline has remained stable or has advanced. Whereas in the short-term, the analysis has evidenced incipient erosion processes. On the other hand, at Quequén the retreat of the coastline and the negative sedimentary balances (medium and short-term) are clearly indicating an accentuated erosion process. The different degrees of coastal erosion are related in part to beach vulnerability to wave storms but mainly to anthropogenic actions, which have affected the beach sediment supply. These results evidence the necessity to develop a coastal management programme. 相似文献
20.
建立了波浪、底部离岸流、泥沙运动和沙滩剖面演变耦合数学模型,模拟了实验室中波浪作用下沙坝剖面的形成过程,讨论了各个物理参数对剖面上的水动力和地形变化的影响。通过参数率定,较好地复演了不规则波作用下沙滩地形由均匀斜坡向沙坝剖面的演变,波高、底部离岸流、输沙率和剖面演变的计算结果与实测数据吻合良好。采用数值实验和误差分析方法,讨论了破碎波水滚倾角、泥沙扩散系数和床面休止角等物理参数对计算结果的影响。研究表明,所建立的模型能较好地描述波浪作用下沙坝剖面形成过程中的重要物理机制。 相似文献