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1.
Field observations are made of the formation of backwash ripples on the beach face, formed by undular hydraulic jumps generated by backwash down the beach face colliding with wave bores. Measured ripple wavelengths range from set averages of 48 to 70 cm. Within a particular set of ripples the spacing tends to decrease in the offshore direction. These observations are compared with laboratory experiments where undular jumps are generated in a flume, and with a computer simulation model which calculates both the flow within an undular hydraulic jump and the resulting sediment transport which gives rise to the backwash ripples. The computer model involves a numerical solution of the Bousssinesq equations which govern the fluid flow, and sediment transport equations which relate the sand transport rate to the local mean flow velocity. The model permits a study of the detailed time-history of the undular jump development and the formation of the backwash ripples and shows good agreement with the field observations of backwash ripples, predicting an offshore decrease in their spacings. The laboratory experiments showed a similar result so long as the Froude number of the supercritical flow before the jump occurs is small (c. 1–4). Small differences between the computer model and experiments arose principally from the neglect of internal friction and surface tension in the model. 相似文献
2.
GERAINT OWEN 《Sedimentology》1994,41(2):211-213
Current crescents are well preserved on the upper surfaces of quartzite beds in the Lower Cambrian Herreria Formation of the Cantabrian Mountains in northern Spain. Within a sequence of nearshore deposits, the current crescents are interpreted as having formed by flow separation of wave backwash around obstacles on a beach. The obstacles are not preserved and are inferred to have been perishable organic material, such as stranded algae or jellyfish, which subsequently decayed. 相似文献
3.
The dynamic sediment budget on the intertidal face of sandy surf beaches is influenced by interaction of swash/backwash flows with the beach watertable. Watertable height variations are coupled to tides and pass into the beach as a slow wave of diminishing amplitude and increasing lag. High-frequency pulses from the onshore wave train also propagate into the beach. The height at which the watertable outcrops on the beach face is affected by antecedent tide and wave history and influences balance of sand deposition and entrainment during swash and backwash. Experimental lowering of the watertable by pumping an array of wells induces sand deposition. Energy expended in pumping is less than 0.3% of the onshore flux in the wave train. 相似文献
4.
各种类型的沉积物床面形态及层理构造大量保存在沉积岩中,成为恢复古沉积环境和古地理的重要标志之一。1981年,作者在山东白沙口海岸,对海岸带不同地貌条件下的床面形态系列及层理构造进行了观测,并对其形成过程进行了探讨。 相似文献
5.
On the south‐west coast of Vancouver Island, Canada, sedimentological and ichnological analysis of three beach–shoreface complexes developed along a strait margin was undertaken to quantify process–response relations in straits and to develop a model for strait‐margin beaches. For all three beaches, evidence of tidal processes are expressed best in the lower shoreface and offshore and, to a lesser extent, in the middle shoreface. Tidal currents are dominant offshore, below 18 m water depth (relative to the mean spring high tide), whereas wave processes dominate sediment deposition in the nearshore (intertidal zone to 5 m water depth). From 18 to 5 m water depth, tidal processes decrease in importance relative to wave processes. The relatively high tidal energy in the offshore and lower shoreface is manifest sedimentologically by the dominance of sand, of a similar grain size to the upper shoreface/intertidal zone and, by the prevalence of current‐generated structures (current ripples) oriented parallel to the shoreline. In addition, the offshore and lower shoreface of strait‐bound beach–shoreface complexes are recognized ichnologically by traces typical of the Skolithos Ichnofacies. This situation contrasts to the dominantly horizontal feeding traces characteristic of the Cruziana Ichnofacies that are prevalent in the lower shoreface and offshore of open‐coast (wave‐dominated) beach–shorefaces. These sedimentological and ichnological characteristics reflect tidal influence on sediment deposition; consequently, the term ‘tide‐influenced shoreface’ most accurately describes these depositional environments. 相似文献
6.
7.
Estimating palaeowind strength from beach deposits 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Kenneth D. Adams 《Sedimentology》2003,50(3):565-577
Abstract The geological record of past wind conditions is well expressed in the coarse gravel, cobble and boulder beach deposits of Quaternary palaeolakes in the Great Basin of the western USA and elsewhere. This paper describes a technique, using the particle‐size distribution of beach deposits, to reconstruct palaeowind conditions when the lakes were present. The beach particle technique (BPT) is first developed using coarse beach deposits from the 1986–87 highstand of the Great Salt Lake in Utah, combined with instrumental wind records from the same time period. Next, the BPT is used to test the hypothesis that wind conditions were more severe than at present during the last highstand of Lake Lahontan (≈ 13 ka), which only lasted a decade or two at most. The largest 50 beach clasts were measured at nine beach sites located along the north, west and south sides of Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake, all of which formed in 1986–87. At these sites, the largest clast sizes range from 10 to 28 cm (b‐axis), and fetch lengths range from 25 to 55 km. Nearshore wave height was calculated by assuming that the critical threshold velocity required to move the largest clasts represents a minimum estimate of the breaking wave velocity, which is controlled by wave height. Shoaling transformations are undertaken to estimate deep‐water wave heights and, ultimately, wind velocity. Wind estimates for the nine sites, using the BPT, range from 6·5 to 17·4 m s?1, which is in reasonable agreement with the instrumental record from Salt Lake City Airport. The same technique was applied to eight late Pleistocene beaches surrounding the Carson Sink sub‐basin of Lake Lahontan, Nevada. Using the BPT, estimated winds for the eight sites range from 9·7 to 27·1 m s?1. The strongest winds were calculated for a cobble/boulder beach with a fetch of 25 km. Instrumental wind records for the 1992–99 period indicate that wind events of 9–12 m s?1 are common and that the strongest significant wind event (≥ 9 m s?1 for ≥ 3 h) reached an average velocity of 15·5 m s?1. Based on this preliminary comparison, it appears that the late Pleistocene western Great Basin was a windier place than at present, at least for a brief time. 相似文献
8.
海南岛三亚湾及其周边海滩可分为两种主要类型:一类是岩礁海岸海滩,发育于基岩和珊瑚礁岛波影区或珊瑚礁平台后侧,多为背叠式砂砾滩,滩窄、坡陡,具有数道陡坎,在岛礁背风侧常发育不同阶段的连岛坝,如白排人工岛西南端海滩、鹿回头湾大洲后侧及对岸的海滩、鹿回头湾和小东海海滩;另一类是沙坝海岸海滩,发育于向外海敞开的大沙坝的向海侧,海湾内砂质沉积物丰富,形成滩脊式或背叠式砂质滩,滩面宽坦,物质较细,如三亚湾和大东海海滩。因湾口朝向与湾内岛礁分布发育情况不同,湾内受常浪和台风强浪作用的强度与频率不同,加之现代泥沙补给情况的差异,这一类海滩的形态结构亦不尽相同。如三亚湾西侧近岬角处,波能辐聚,动力强,侵蚀作用突出,滩面呈近直线形倾斜,并形成两道陡坎;三亚湾中部,受岛礁保护,滩面宽阔,波浪消能空间充足,物质丰富,发育滩脊型海滩,滩面呈上凸形,基本稳定;三亚湾东侧,虽有岛礁掩蔽,但由于人为修建的绿地草坪带和水泥碎砖石小径等,建设高度过低, 束狭了激浪带的自由作用宽度,减小了波浪消能范围,破坏了海滩的整体结构,同时阻断了沙坝向海滩的供沙, 使滩面坡度加大,物质粗化,局部与小径相接处形成侵蚀陡坎、椰树等倾斜,呈侵蚀状态。 相似文献
9.
Analysis of 75 vibracores from the backbarrier region of Kiawah Island, South Carolina reveals a complex association of three distinct stratigraphic sequences. Beach ridge progradation and orientation-controlled backbarrier development during the evolution of Kiawah Island, and resulted in deposition of: (1) a mud-rich central backbarrier sequence consisting of low marsh overlying fine-grained, tidal flat/lagoonal mud; (2) a sandy beach-ridge swale sequence consisting of high and low marsh overlying tidal creek channel and point bar sand, and foreshore/shoreface; and (3) a regressive sequence of sandy, mixed, and muddy tidal flats capped by salt marsh that occurs on the updrift end of the island. Central backbarrier deposits formed as a result of the development of the initial beach ridge on Kiawah Island. Formation of this beach ridge created a backbarrier lagoon in which fine-grained estuarine and tidal flat mud accumulated. Washovers, oyster mounds, and tidal creek deposits form isolated sand and/or shell-rich lenses in the lagoon. Spartina alterniflora low marsh prograded into the lagoon as the tidal flats aggraded. Barrier progradation and sediment bar-bypassing at Stono Inlet created digitate beach ridges on the northeast end of Kiawah Island. Within the beach-ridge swales, tidal flats were disconformably deposited on shoreface and foreshore sand of the older beach ridges. Tidal creek drainage systems evolved to drain the swales. These rapidly migrating creeks reworked the tidal flat, foreshore, and shoreface sediments while redepositing a fining-upward sequence of channel lag and point bar deposits, which served as a substrate for salt marsh colonization. This resultant regressive sedimentary package marks the culmination of barrier island development and estuary infilling. Given enough time and sedimentation, the backbarrier sequence will ultimately prograde over the barrier island, reworking dune, beach, and foreshore sediments to form the upper sand-rich bounding surface of the barrier lithosome. Preservation of the regressive sequence is dependent upon sediment supply and the relative rate of sea-level rise, but the reworking of barrier islands by tidal inlets and migrating tidal creeks greatly alter and complicate the stratigraphic sequence. 相似文献
10.
Quantifying rates of coastal progradation from sediment volume using GPR and OSL: the Holocene fill of Guichen Bay, south-east South Australia 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Guichen Bay on the south‐east coast of South Australia faces west towards the prevailing westerly winds of the Southern Ocean. The bay is backed by a 4 km wide Holocene beach‐ridge plain with more than 100 beach ridges. The morphology of the Guichen Bay strandplain complex shows changes in the width, length, height and orientation of beach ridges. A combination of geomorphological interpretation, shallow geophysics and existing geochronology is used to interpret the Holocene fill of Guichen Bay. Six sets of beach ridges are identified from the interpretation of orthorectified aerial photographs. The ridge sets are distinguished on the basis of beach‐ridge orientation and continuity. A 2·25 km ground‐penetrating radar (GPR) profile across the beach ridges reveals the sedimentary structures and stratigraphic units. The beach ridges visible in the surface topography are a succession of stabilized foredunes that overlie progradational foreshore and upper shoreface sediments. The beach progrades show multiple truncation surfaces interpreted as storm events. The GPR profile shows that there are many more erosion surfaces in the subsurface than beach ridges on the surface. The width and dip of preserved beach progrades imaged by GPR shows that the shoreface has steepened from around 2·9° to around 7·5°. The changes in beach slope are attributed to increasing wave energy associated with beach progradation into deeper water as Guichen Bay was infilled. At the same time, the thickness of the preserved beach progrades increases slightly as the beach prograded into deeper water. Using the surface area of the ridge sets measured from the orthophotography, and the average thickness of upper shoreface, foreshore and coastal dune sands interpreted from the GPR profile, the volume of Holocene sediments within three of the six sets of beach‐ridge accretion has been calculated. Combining optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) ages and volume calculations, rates of sediment accumulation for Ridge Sets 3, 4 and 5 have been estimated. Linear rates of beach‐ridge progradation appear to decrease in the mid‐Holocene. However, the rates of sediment accumulation calculated from beach volumes have remained remarkably consistent through the mid‐ to late Holocene. This suggests that sediment supply to the beach has been constant and that the decrease in the rate of progradation is due to increasing accommodation space as the beach progrades into deeper water. Changes in beach‐ridge morphology and orientation reflect environmental factors such as changes in wave climate and wind regime. 相似文献
11.
Mohammed Taaouati Driss Nachite Javier Benavente Abdelmounim Elmrini 《Environmental Earth Sciences》2011,64(5):1225-1236
The morphodynamic behavior of a mesotidal sandy beach was monitored during both calm and energetic conditions. Two years of
seasonal surveys were carried out on Charf el Akab, a gently sloped beach in the North Atlantic coast of Morocco. The method
of survey consisted of a 3D study of the beach morphological changes and provided 2 cm vertical accuracy. During the surveyed
period, Charf el Akab beach underwent very energetic wave conditions, and the breaking wave height was of H
b ≥ 1.5 m. The beach is characterized by a nonpermanent swash bar and composed of well-sorted medium sand. The application
of environmental parameters revealed a dissipative state with very low beach gradient which did not vary significantly over
the studied period. Morphological changes consist of beach erosion and bar decay under high-energy waves, whereas the intertidal
bar re-established and the beach recorded an accentuated accretion due to relatively fair weather conditions. The beach volume
reveals a seasonal behavior; the sand accumulated during summer is dramatically removed during winter season. The range in
beach sand volume from the most accreted to the most eroded conditions observed is about −5,493 m3. The average sand volume flux between surveys reaches −1 and 0.4 m2/day during peak erosion and accretion periods. The relationships between the wave forcing and the sand volume adjustments
were examined. The sand volume change was found to be highly correlated (0.91) with the wave energy flux. The highest correspondence
(0.95) was found between the sand flux rate and the wave energy flux. The wave forcing is expected to be the main factor governing
beach morphodynamics at Charf el Akab site. 相似文献
12.
三亚海岸演变与人工海滩设计研究* 总被引：12，自引：0，他引：12
三亚海岸位于海南岛南部,属弱潮海区,以来自开阔外海的偏南向风浪为海岸优势动力。三亚海岸经历了从基岩港湾海岸到岬角与港湾相间的海蚀-海积海岸的发育演化过程,沙坝(沙咀)发育始于中更新世初期,珊瑚礁发育始于8kaB.P. ,目前海岸总体处于相对平衡发展阶段。对三亚地区海岸地貌、动力及泥沙运动的调查研究,总结三亚湾及其周边不同类型海滩的特点,提取其海滩参数。依据处于不同发展时期的自然海滩形成演变的条件和规律,设计建构三亚白排人工海滩的关键参数。设计海滩总长度约400m,宽度\{40~\}50m,坡度4.5°~5.0°,相对高度约2m,填砂M为0.5,以粒径1.0~\}0.5mm的粗砂为主,总填砂量48000m3。从滩面物质和滩面坡度两个关键方面,利用代表性的数学模型,检验了设计海滩的稳定性。本项研究旨在服务白排人工海滩建设,研究方法对海滩侵蚀防护与同类海岸工程建设等具有参考价值。 相似文献
13.
本文讨论了广西北海现代海岸各种环境的自然地理分带、地质营力、沉积物以及生物生态等特征，指出环境能量直接决定了环境类型、沉积物类型以及生物组合类型。海岸环境据其能量划分为高能海滩、低能海湾、中能岩质潮坪和砂质潮坪、低能泥质红树林潮坪以及高能潮上沙丘等6种沉积类型；混合沉积作用主要发育于高能海滩和中能潮坪沉积环境内。涠洲岛现代地壳的上升活动控制着该区海蚀地貌的形成。 相似文献
14.
Short-term morphological change and sediment dynamics in the intertidal zone of a macrotidal beach 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper describes the morphological and sedimentological evolution of a macrotidal beach over a 20 day period under varying hydrodynamic conditions (significant breaker heights of 0·3–2 m and tidal ranges of 2–5 m). During the field campaign, an intertidal bar developed around the mid‐tide level, migrated onshore, welded to the upper beach and was then flattened under energetic wave conditions. The bar had a wave breakpoint origin and its formation was triggered by a reduction in tidal range, causing more stationary water‐level conditions, rather than an increase in wave height. Most of the onshore bar migration took place while the bar was positioned in the inner to mid‐surf zone position, such that the bar moved away from the breakpoint and exhibited ‘divergent’ behaviour. The depth of disturbance over individual tidal cycles was 10–20% of the breaker height. Such values are more typical of steep reflective beaches, than gently sloping, dissipative beaches, and are considered to reflect the maximum height of wave‐generated ripples. The grain size distribution of surficial sediments did not vary consistently across the beach profile and temporal changes in the sedimentology were mostly unrelated to the morphological response. The lack of clear links between beach morphology and sedimentology may be in part due to shortcomings in the sampling methodology, which ignored the vertical variability in the sediment size characteristics across the active layer. 相似文献
15.
Erich R. Gundlach Christopher H. Ruby Miles O. Hayes Anne E. Blount 《Environmental Geology》1978,2(3):131-143
The supertankerUrquiola grounded, exploded, and burned at the entrance to La Coruña harbor (Spain) on May 12, 1976. A total of 100,000 tons of Persian Gulf crude oil was lost, of which about 30,000 tons washed onto shoreline environments. From May 17 to June 10, 1976, the impact and interaction of oil on fine-sand, coarse-sand, and gravel beaches and on sheltered and exposed rocky coasts was monitored in detail. At 32 localities, the beach was profiled, trenched, extensively sampled, and photographed. Another 67 stations were examined for surficial oil coverage and distribution. The surficial distribution of oil on the beaches was influenced primarily by wave activity, tidal stage, and oil quantity. Heaviest accumulations formed along the high-tide swash line. Within beach sediments, oil was present at distinct oiled sediment layers, which were often deeply buried. The depth of burial was related to wave energy and sediment type. Deepest burial (1 m) was on a high-energy, coarse-sand beach (Mz=0.82φ). Burial on fine-sand beaches was less than 30 cm. The thickness of oiled sediment depended on sedimentary characteristics, the quantity of oil present, wave action, and capillary forces. Oil-soaked sediment, as much as 65-cm thick, occurred on coarse-grained beaches. On fine-sand beaches, oiled sediment was limited to thicknesses of 10 cm or less. On rocky shores, oil distribution was determined primarily by wave energy. Along high-energy, cliffed, or steeply dipping rocky areas, wave reflection kept the oil approximately 5 m offshore and contamination was minimal. In low-energy, sheltered areas, oil readily accumulated, causing apparent environmental damage. 相似文献
16.
受波浪及沿岸流影响,在滨岸地区形成的滩坝砂体是滨海（湖）带发育的主要砂体类型。目前国内外学者对滩坝沉积砂体的认识多来自于现代沉积和油气地质特征,对滩坝砂体的沉积机制和内部结构研究相对较弱。基于沉积水槽实验,采用规则波浪对沙质斜坡滨岸带进行模拟实验,观测波浪作用下滨岸带滩坝形成过程和波浪运动特征,记录波浪作用下滨岸带沙质滩坝在不同浪带平面时空演化规律。实验结果显示:波浪是改造湖岸原有沉积物的关键驱动力,波浪作用下沙质岸滩床面泥砂将发生输移运动,而滩坝是陆湖（海）泥沙在水动力驱动下搬运沉积的结果,水动力的强弱及水流结构引起泥沙在空间上的不均匀输运和分布,进而塑造不同的滩坝形态。与强波浪相关的高水位可以加速滩坝系统的形成并最终形成大规模的滩坝砂;相比之下,与较弱波浪相关的低水位只能略微改变初始沉积物形态。根据不同的沉积物特征可将实验中的滩坝系统分为三类:冲浪带和碎浪带滩坝系统近端部分的大规模厚层坝砂,破浪带和升浪带滩坝系统中部分布广泛的薄滩砂,以及位于滩坝系统中远端的弧形或平行排列的脊状、砂纹坝砂。建立了水槽实验模式下滩坝沉积模式,可用于指导油气勘探开发。 相似文献
17.
宁夏香山群为一套遭受轻微区域变质的砂岩、页岩、石灰岩和硅岩,可分为徐家圈组、狼嘴子组和磨盘井组。徐家圈组为深海斜坡沉积,狼嘴子组和磨盘井组为深海平原沉积。在宁夏中卫大柳树沟和下石棚的徐家圈组下部发现波痕,波长分别为13～15 cm和8～12.5 cm,波高分别为约2 cm和1.1～2 cm。波痕所在岩层底部和下伏岩层见槽模,波痕上覆岩层中见交错层理。通过对波痕、槽模、交错层理进行野外资料的采集,对古流向进行了分析。大柳树沟的波痕、槽模、交错层理反映古流向分别为SSE向、SSE向和NE向;而在下石棚地区分别为NW向、SSW向和SWW向。本文用复合流模式分析了波痕的成因,并对槽模、波痕、交错层理组成的沉积构造组合的形成过程进行了阐述。 相似文献
18.
The response of a rocky beach to different possible combinations of hydrodynamic conditions (tides, waves, oceanic currents) has been little studied. In this work, the morphodynamic response to different hydrodynamic forcing is evaluated from sedimentological and geomorphological analysis in seasonal and medium term (19 years) scale in Palmeras beach, located in the southwest of Gorgona Island National Natural Park (NNP), a mesotidal rocky island on the Colombian Pacific continental shelf. Palmeras is an important nesting area of two types of marine turtles, with no anthropogenic stress. In the last years, coastal erosion has reduced the beach width, restricting the safe areas for nesting and conservation of these species. Until now, the sinks, sources, reservoirs, rates, and paths of sediments were unknown, as well as their hydrodynamic forcing. The beach seasonal variability, from October 2010 to August 2012, was analyzed based on biweekly or monthly measurements of five beach profiles distributed every 200 m along the 1.2 km of beach length. The main paths for sediment transport were defined from the modeling of wave currents with the SMC model (Coastal Modeling System), as well as the oceanic currents, simulated for the dry and wet seasons of 2011 using the ELCOM model (Estuary and Lake COmputer Model). Extreme morphologic variations over a time span of 19 years were analyzed with the Hsu and Evans beach static equilibrium parabolic model, from one wave diffraction point which dominates the general beach plan shape. The beach lost 672 m3/m during the measuring period, and erosional processes were intensified during the wet season. The beach trends responded directly to a wave mean energy flux change, resulting in an increase of up to 14 m in the width northward and loss of sediments in the beach southward. This study showed that to obtain the integral morphodynamic behavior of a rocky beach it is necessary to combine information of hydrodynamic, sedimentology and geomorphology in different time scales. 相似文献
19.
Grain‐size distributions on high‐energy sandy beaches and their relation to wave dissipation 
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下载免费PDF全文 Grain size and sorting represent two key parameters when characterizing sediments or modelling beach morphology and sediment transport. Traditionally, an average value for grain size or sorting is often assumed for the entire area, determined from only a few sediment samples, ignoring any spatial (or temporal) variability in sediment characteristics. This contribution uses a data set of physical surface sediment samples from 53 beach locations around the south‐west peninsula of the United Kingdom, in addition to bi‐monthly, high spatial resolution (mean 240 samples) digital grain‐size surveys from a high‐energy, oceanic, sandy beach (Perranporth, North Cornwall). Systematic spatial variations in grain size and sorting were consistently observed in the seaward direction across the intertidal zone of sandy beaches, with grain‐sizes coarsening and sorting improving by up to 51·7% and 64·3%, respectively. This variability was deterministically related to the time‐averaged, antecedent‐adjusted energy dissipated by breaking waves, with the observed maximum grain‐size and sorting values correlating with the location of peak wave energy dissipation (r2 = 0·998, P < 0·01). 相似文献
20.
Late Palaeozoic glaciated rock surfaces and associated sediments occur along the northeastern coast of Kangaroo Island. The erosional forms include glacially polished rock surfaces, striae, grooves, chatter marks, friction cracks, crescentic gouges, p‐forms, sichelwannen, miniature rock crag‐and‐tails and roches moutonnées. The distribution and orientation of these along with till fabrics indicate a general northwesterly ice flow in this part of the Troubridge Basin. The glacial erosional forms and the presence of thick lodgement till imply that the local basal ice was at pressure‐melting point during their formation. Temperate to subpolar glacial ice conditions, similar to those currently prevailing in glaciers in Spitsbergen, are inferred. 相似文献