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1.
Third-generation wave models have been evolved in 1980s with the state-of-the-art physics of wave generation. Using these
models, the real time wave estimation is made possible but, in general, it is found to be underpredicted. This is mainly due
to the smoothened wind vectors from the atmospheric model. An accurate prediction of wind is thus necessary to improve the
wave prediction further. A better way of overcoming the discrepancies in the wind is by the way of wave data assimilation.
In the present study, an operationally efficient yet a versatile assimilation model, optimal interpolation (OI), has been
presented. The weighting matrix, so-called gain matrix, has been formulated according to the model physics by which the wind
generates waves. The efficiency of the assimilative model using real time buoy observations at the Arabian Sea has been evaluated
and described in this article. The root mean square error reduction of wave height is found to be of the order of 30–50% at
the validation stations. 相似文献
2.
The focus of the present study is the assessment of the impact of wind forcing on the spectral wave model MIKE 21 SW in the Indian Ocean region. Three different wind fields, namely the ECMWF analyzed winds, the ECMWF blended winds, and the NCEP blended winds have been used to drive the model. The wave model results have been compared with in-situ observations and satellite altimeter data. This study also evaluated the performance of the wind products during local phenomenon like sea breeze, since it has a significant impact on the wave prediction in the Indian coastal region. Hence we explored the possibility of studying the impact of diurnal variation of winds on coastal waves using different wind fields. An analysis of the model performance has also been made during high wind conditions with the inference that blended winds generate more realistic wave fields in the high wind conditions and are able to produce the growth and decay of waves more realistically. 相似文献
3.
December 2004 tsunami in the Indian Ocean region has been simulated using MIKE-21 HD model. The vertical displacement of the seabed is incorporated into the numerical simulation by using time-varying bathymetry data. In the open ocean, sea surface height from altimeter observation has been used to validate the model results. To the west of the rupture zone, the crest is observed to precede the trough of the tsunami waves while to the east, trough preceded the crest. The model performance along the coastal region has been validated using de-tided sea levels from tide gauge measurements at Tuticorin, Chennai, Vishakapattanam, and Paradip ports along the east coast of India. Unique coastal characteristics of the tsunami waves, wave height, and wave celerity are reasonably simulated by the numerical model. Spectral analysis of tide gauge observations and corresponding model results has been done, and the distribution of frequency peaks from the analysis of gauge observations and the model results is observed to have a reasonable comparison. Low-frequency waves, contributed from the coastally trapped edge waves, are found to dominate both the tide gauge observations and the model results. The subsequent increase in the tsunami wave height observed at Chennai, Vishakapattanam, and Paradip has been explained on the basis of coastally trapped edge waves. From the validation studies using altimeter data and tide gauge data, it is observed that the model can be used effectively to simulate the tsunami wave height in the offshore as well as in the coastal region with satisfying performance. 相似文献
4.
In the early stages of wave growth it is seen that wave heights are underestimated by presently available models especially in a low wind regime. Parametric wind-sea relationships of significant wave height (H2) and zero-crossing period (T 2) for slight to moderate sea-states were proposed earlier on an analysis of wind and wave data. This model is based on the concept of time delay between the wind speed (U) and wave evolution process. It is simple and requires less computational effort compared to the spectral method. The present paper attempts to test and evaluate the performance of the proposed model with additional field data of wind and waves measured off the Indian coast. MeasuredU,H 2, andT 2 ranged between 1 and 15 m/s, 0·5 and 2·7 m and 4 and 10 s respectively. By and large, the comparison between model output and field observations are encouraging. A hindcast study was carried out earlier using a spectral wave prediction model (TOHOKU) for Indian Seas using field measurements which include the data sets utilized in this study. Comparison between these two models reveals a good agreement. 相似文献
5.
A mathematical model has been developed to forecast or hindcast wind, waves, and longshore currents during the passage of a coastal storm. Storm intensity is a function of the barometric pressure gradient which is modeled by rotating an inverted normal curve around the center of an ellipse. The length and orientation of the major and minor axes of the ellipse control the size and shape of the storm. The path of the storm is determined by a sequence of storm positions for the hindcast mode, and by interpolated positions assuming constant speed and direction for the forecast mode. The site location, shoreline orientation, and nearshore bottom slope provide input data for the shore position. The geostrophic wind speed and direction at the shore site are computed from the latitude and barometric pressure gradient. The geostrophic wind is converted into surface wind speed and direction by applying corrections for frictional effects over land and sea. The surface wind speed and direction, effective fetch, and wind duration are used to compute wave period, breaker height, and breaker angle at the shore site. The longshore current velocity is computed as a function of wave period, breaker height and angle, and nearshore slope. The model was tested by comparing observed data for several coastal locations with predicted values for wind speed, wave period and height, and longshore current velocity. Forecasts were made for actual storms and for hypothetical circular and elliptical storms. 相似文献
6.
Judith Wolf 《Natural Hazards》2009,49(2):241-260
Wind waves and elevated water levels together can cause flooding in low-lying coastal areas, where the water level may be
a combination of mean sea level, tides and surges generated by storm events. In areas with a wide continental shelf a travelling
external surge may combine with the locally generated surge and waves and there can be significant interaction between the
propagation of the tide and surge. Wave height at the coast is controlled largely by water depth. So the effect of tides and
surges on waves must also be considered, while waves contribute to the total water level by means of wave setup through radiation
stress. These processes are well understood and accurately predicted by models, assuming good bathymetry and wind forcing
is available. Other interactions between surges and waves include the processes of surface wind-stress and bottom friction
as well as depth and current refraction of waves by surge water levels and currents, and some of the details of these processes
are still not well understood. The recent coastal flooding in Myanmar (May 2008) in the Irrawaddy River Delta is an example
of the severity of such events, with a surge of over 3 m exacerbated by heavy precipitation. Here, we review the existing
capability for combined modelling of tides, surges and waves, their interactions and the development of coupled models. 相似文献
7.
The disastrous effects of numerous winter storms on the marine environment in the North Sea and the Baltic Sea during the
last decade show that wind waves generated by strong winds actually represent natural hazards and require high quality wave
forecast systems as warning tools to avoid losses due to the impact of rough seas. Hence, the operational wave forecast system
running at the German Weather Service including a regional wave model for the North Sea and the Baltic Sea is checked extensively
whether it provides reasonable wave forecasts, especially for periods of extraordinary high sea states during winter storms.
For two selected extreme storm events that induced serious damage in the area of interest, comprehensive comparisons between
wave measurements and wave model forecast data are accomplished. Spectral data as well as integrated parameters are considered,
and the final outcome of the corresponding comparisons and statistical analysis is encouraging. Over and above the capability
to provide good short-term forecast results, the regional wave model is able to predict extreme events as severe winter storms
connected with extraordinary high waves already about 2 days in advance. Therefore, it represents an appropriate warning tool
for offshore activities and coastal environment. 相似文献
8.
为了解影响舟山岛的台风浪特性,基于舟山岛东北部沿海水域深、浅水两个测站同步测量的6个台风过程波浪资料,统计分析了两测站的波参数变化和谱变化特性,探讨了波浪变化的原因。研究显示:①灿鸿过程的深、浅水站最大波高均大于其他5个台风浪过程;②多数台风浪过程深水站波向主要为东及东南东向,而浅水站主要为东、东北东及东北向,水下地形对波向变化起主要作用;③不同路径台风对两测站谱型有明显影响,灿鸿、巴蓬、黄蜂和天鹅过程的波浪在两站以双峰谱为主,苏迪罗和杜鹃过程深水站波浪以单峰谱居多,浅水站则多峰谱多于单峰谱。研究成果对沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾有重要参考价值。 相似文献
9.
Sensitivity of MM5 and WRF mesoscale model predictions of surface winds in a typhoon to planetary boundary layer parameterizations 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
Sea surface winds and coastal winds, which have a significant influence on the ocean environment, are very difficult to predict.
Although most planetary boundary layer (PBL) parameterizations have demonstrated the capability to represent many meteorological
phenomena, little attention has been paid to the precise prediction of winds at the lowest PBL level. In this study, the ability
to simulate sea winds of two widely used mesoscale models, fifth-generation mesoscale model (MM5) and weather research and
forecasting model (WRF), were compared. In addition, PBL sensitivity experiments were performed using Medium-Range Forecasts
(MRF), Eta, Blackadar, Yonsei University (YSU), and Mellor–Yamada–Janjic (MYJ) during Typhoon Ewiniar in 2006 to investigate
the optimal PBL parameterizations for predicting sea winds accurately. The horizontal distributions of winds were analyzed
to discover the spatial features. The time-series analysis of wind speed from five sensitivity experimental cases was compared
by correlation analysis with surface observations. For the verification of sea surface winds, QuikSCAT satellite 10-m daily
mean wind data were used in root-mean-square error (RMSE) and bias error (BE) analysis. The MRF PBL using MM5 produced relatively
smaller wind speeds, whereas YSU and MYJ using WRF produced relatively greater wind speeds. The hourly surface observations
revealed increasingly strong winds after 0300 UTC, July 10, with most of the experiments reproducing observations reliably.
YSU and MYJ using WRF showed the best agreements with observations. However, MRF using MM5 demonstrated underestimated winds.
The conclusions from the correlation analysis and the RMSE and BE analysis were compatible with the above-mentioned results.
However, some shortcomings were identified in the improvements of wind prediction. The data assimilation of topographical
data and asynoptic observations along coast lines and satellite data in sparsely observed ocean areas should make it possible
to improve the accuracy of sea surface wind predictions. 相似文献
10.
The cyclone wave parameters are predicted using Young’s parametric hurricane wave prediction model. The input cyclone tracks
for this work are obtained from Fleet Naval Meteorology and Oceanography Center, USA. Extreme value analysis is carried out
to obtain the wave heights and periods for 1 in 5, 10, 50 and 100 years return periods, respectively. The deep-water hindcast
wave corresponding to 100 years from probable directions are allowed to propagate to Visakhapatnam coastal waters using nearshore
spectral wind-wave mode. The offshore wave height for one in 100-year return period is 11.9 m, and the corresponding nearshore
wave height at 10-m water depth varies between 4.6 and 5.6 m depending on the directional spreading. Weibull distribution
is chosen to fit the 24 cyclonic data sets over a total period of 30 years (September 1972 to November 2002). This paper demonstrates
usefulness of Young’s wave model for deep-water extreme wave hindcasting. Further, the results of the present study would
be highly useful for assessing the design wave height for Visakhapatnam coast. 相似文献
11.
北太平洋Rossby波研究进展 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
系统地阐述了北太平洋Rossby波在卫星观测、理论扩展及模型应用3个方面的研究成果.随着卫星观测技术的发展,明显地探测到海表面信号的Rossby波特征,且观测到波速在热带外大于自由Rossby波理论值.为解释这个波动加速现象,在自由Rossby渡理论的基础上,考虑了大气强迫、非静止基流及海底地形等因子的作用,使得Rossby波的波动理论得到了扩展.而关于风应力强迫Rossby波的线性理论模型主要有3类:一阶斜压Rossby波模型、局地Ekman抽吸模型和Svetdrup平衡模型.这些模型被广泛地应用到北太平洋海表面高度和温度/密度跃层深度等要素变化的机理研究中,得到了不同的模型在大洋的不同区域有不同的作用等结论.最后,对线性Rossby波研究存在的问题进行了初步探讨,提出了需要进一步解决的新课题. 相似文献
12.
Madhav L. Khandekar 《Natural Hazards》1994,9(1-2):125-153
The Grand Banks and the Scotian Shelf regions of the Canadian Atlantic often experience strong winds and high waves associated with the passage of intense storms during the winter months of December to March. These storm waves are identified as a major hazard to shipping, offshore exploration and other marine activities in eastern Canada.In this study, an operational spectral ocean wave model has been used to simulate sea-states associated with selected storm events in the Canadian Atlantic. The wave model operates on a grid (with grid spacing of about 111 km) which covers a major portion of the north Atlantic. A nested fine grid (with grid spacing of about 37 km) has been designed which covers the shelf regions of the Canadian Atlantic. The model employs deep-water physics over the coarse grid while over the fine grid shallow-water processes as represented by wave refraction, wave shoaling, bottom friction and wave number scaling are included. The wave model also includes, as an optional package, the third-generation source terms as represented by the nonlinear wave-wave interaction terms.For two selected storm events, the model generated sea-states are evaluated against available buoy data as well as against hand analyzed operational wave height charts over the northwest Atlantic. The evaluation shows that the various versions of the model can simulate the observed sea-states, reasonably well. The utility of the wave model in providing numerical guidance for offshore activities is briefly discussed. 相似文献
13.
P. Vethamony V. M. Aboobacker K. Sudheesh M. T. Babu K. Ashok Kumar 《Natural Hazards》2009,49(2):411-420
The Ministry of Shipping desires to revise the inland vessels’ limit (IVL) notification based on scientific rationale to improve
the safety of vessels and onboard personnel. The Mormugao port region extending up to the Panaji was considered for this pilot
study. Measured winds and wave parameters (AWS and moored buoy) as well as NCEP re-analysis and NCMRWF winds were used for
the analysis and input to regional and local models. The results of wave model were validated with measured significant wave
heights (SWHs) and the comparison shows a good match. The analysis indicates that SWHs do not exceed 2.0 m during non-monsoon
months, and in monsoon months exceed 5.0 m, and even 7.0 m, especially during extreme events. In order to draw IVL contours
for Goa coastal region, local model was set up and nearshore waves were simulated for the period May 2004–May 2005. Based
on the nearshore SWH distribution, IVL contours have been fixed for the Mormugao port and Panaji coastal regions. 相似文献
14.
The data of rogue wave accidents reported in mass media during 2006–2010 years are collected and analysed. The collection
includes 106 events, which are classified by their validity as true (78) and possible (28) and by the location of their occurrence:
we distinguish deep, shallow and coastal rogue waves, which occurred in deep/shallow waters or at the coast. The validity
of the event has been estimated by the rogue wave height, which should be twice larger than the significant wave height (significant
wave height has been taken from satellite data), and/or by the associated hazard. It is shown that rogue waves cause especially
high damage in shallow waters and at the coast. 相似文献
15.
An attempt is made to derive wind speed from wave measurements by carrying out an inverse modeling. This requirement arises
out of difficulties occasionally encountered in collecting wave and wind data simultaneously. The wind speed at every 3-h
interval is worked out from corresponding simultaneous measurements of significant wave height and average wave periods with
the help of alternative data-driven methods such as program-based genetic programming, model trees, and locally weighted projection
regression. Five different wave buoy locations in Arabian Sea, representing nearshore and offshore as well as shallow and
deep water conditions, are considered. The duration of observations ranged from 15 months to 29 months for different sites.
The testing performance of calibrated models has been evaluated with the help of eight alternative error statistics, and the
best model for all locations is determined by averaging out the error measures into a single evaluation index. All the three
methods satisfactorily estimated the wind speed from known wave parameters through inverse modeling. The genetic programming
is found to be the most suitable tool in majority of the cases. 相似文献
16.
Javier Lario Chris Spencer Teresa Bardají Ángel Marchante Victor H. Garduño-monroy Jorge Macias Sergio Ortega 《Sedimentology》2020,67(3):1481-1504
The Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico, has typically been considered a tectonically stable region with little significant seismic activity. The region though, is one that is regularly affected by hurricanes. A detailed survey of ca 100 km of the eastern Yucatán and Cozumel coast identified the presence of ridges containing individual boulders measuring >1 m in length. The boulder ridges reach 5 m in height and their origin is associated with extreme wave event activity. Previously modelled tsunami waves from known seismically active zones in the region (Muertos Thrust Belt and South Caribbean Deformed Belt) are not of sufficient scale in the area of the Yucatán Peninsula to have produced the boulder ridges recorded in this study. The occurrence of hurricanes in this region is more common, but two of the most destructive (Hurricane Gilbert 1988 and Hurricane Wilma 2005) produced coastal waves too small to have created the ridges recorded here. In this paper, a new tsunami model with a source area located on the Motagua/Swan Island Fault System has been generated that indicates a tsunami event may have caused the extreme wave events that resulted in the deposition of the boulder ridges. 相似文献
17.
Rupa Kamineni S. R. H. Rizvi S. C. Kar U. C. Mohanty R. K. Paliwal 《Journal of Earth System Science》2002,111(3):351-364
Oceansat-1 was successfully launched by India in 1999, with two payloads, namely Multi-frequency Scanning Microwave Radiometer
(MSMR) and Ocean Color Monitor (OCM) to study the biological and physical parameters of the ocean. The MSMR sensor is configured
as an eight-channel radiometer using four frequencies with dual polarization. The MSMR data at 75 km resolution from the Oceansat-I
have been assimilated in the National Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasting (NCMRWF) data assimilation forecast system.
The operational analysis and forecast system at NCMRWF is based on a T80L18 global spectral model and Spectral Statistical
Interpolation (SSI) scheme for data analysis. The impact of the MSMR data is seen globally, however it is significant over
the oceanic region where conventional data are rare. The dry-nature of the control analyses have been removed by utilizing
the MSMR data. Therefore, the total precipitable water data from MSMR has been identified as a very crucial parameter in this
study. The impact of surface wind speed from MSMR is to increase easterlies over the tropical Indian Ocean. Shifting of the
positions of westerly troughs and ridges in the south Indian Ocean has contributed to reduction of temperature to around 30‡S. 相似文献
18.
近岸波浪的不对称特征对浅水区泥沙输运以及海岸结构物受波浪冲刷影响而引起的破坏都起着关键作用,而目前关于波浪不对称特征的研究多集中在正向传播方式上,没有考虑斜向传播的影响,因此,对斜向波浪在近岸传播过程中的波形不对称特征展开研究具有重要的意义。基于高阶Boussinesq水波方程建立了斜向入射波浪沿斜坡传播的数值模型,并利用该模型进行数值试验,模拟了入射波浪沿0°~75°不同方向的传播过程。通过对不同角度入射得到的结果进行比较,讨论了入射角度对波浪不对称特征的影响。结果表明:入射角度越大的波浪,其在变浅过程中的二阶谱以及波浪的偏度和不对称度参数也越小。说明随着波浪入射角度增大,其非线性相互作用程度会发生减弱,导致波浪的非线性特征增长趋势逐渐变缓。最后,给出了考虑斜向角度影响的波浪不对称特征参数经验公式。 相似文献
19.
概述了模拟海岸、河口的浅水波浪数值模型研究现状、存在的问题以及用能量平衡方程预报海浪的发展历史。介绍了基于当代最新波浪理论研究成果的第三代浅水波浪数值模型SWAN模型,对模型的适用性、数值特性、功能及局限性进行了阐述。介绍动谱平衡方程数学模型、方程离散要求、边界条件的处理和源项(包括能量输入、损耗及波与波之间非线性相互作用)的处理方法,重点介绍三相波非线性相互作用。模拟海安湾有效波高、波周期场,并分析波与波之间非线性相互作用对波浪要素预报的影响,最后对SWAN模型的应用前景和研究趋势进行了展望。 相似文献
20.
R. Raghavarao R. Suhasini R. Sridharan B. V. Krishnamurthy O. P. Nagpal 《Journal of Earth System Science》1990,99(3):413-423
The equatorial wave campaign-II which formed a part of the Indian Middle Atmosphere Programme (IMAP), was conducted from SHAR
(13.7°N, 80.2°E) from 15 January to 28 February 1986. Winds were measured from ground to 60 km by means of high altitude balloon
and a meteorological rocket (RH-200), once everyday, for 45 days. The frequencies of the oscillations in the deviations of
the east-west component of the winds from its mean at each height with one kilometer interval were obtained by the maximum
entropy (ME) method and phases/amplitudes of these frequencies were determined by the least squares technique on the wind
variation time series. The ME method has the inherent advantage of providing periodicities up to 1.5 times the data length.
The height structure of the long period waves of > 23 day periodicities that have larger amplitudes nearly by a factor of
2 as compared to the medium (9 to 22 day) or shorter period (4 to 8 day) ones, reveal two height regions of enhanced amplitudes,
one in the troposphere and another in the upper stratosphere/lower mesosphere, that too, mostly in the regions of positive
(westerly increasing or easterly decreasing with height) wind shears. The waves are seen to be inhibited in the negative wind
shear regions. From the abrupt changes in the altitude variation of phase, the possible source region has been identified.
The vertical wavelengths have been estimated to be 34 km and 19 km in the troposphere and lower stratosphere respectively
and 8 km in the upper stratosphere and lower mesosphere. Around 56 km the wave amplitude is reduced to 1/4 of its value below,
while the vertical shear strength in the mean wind doubled up. The tropospheric waves are suggested to be Rossby waves of
extratropical origin penetrating to tropical latitudes. The stratospheric/mesospheric waves however appear to emanate from
a source around the stratopause. 相似文献