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1.
Wind and wind-generated waves were measured in a wind-wave tank. A clear transition was found in the relation between the wind speed U 10 and the wind friction velocity u * near u * = 0.2 m/s, where U 10 is the wind speed at 10 m height extrapolated from the measured wind profile in a logarithmic layer, and u * = 0.2 m/s corresponds roughly to U 10 = 8 m/s in the present measurement. Quite a similar transition was found in the relation between the spectral density of high frequency wind waves and u *. These results suggest the existence of the critical wind speed for air–sea boundary processes, which was proposed by Munk (J Marine Res 6:203–218, 1947) more than half a century ago. His original idea of the critical wind speed was based on the discontinuities in such phenomena as white caps, wind stress, and evaporation, which commonly appear at a wind speed near 7 m/s. On the basis of the results of our present study and those of earlier studies, we discuss the phenomena which are relevant to the critical wind speed for the air–sea boundary processes. The conclusion is that the critical wind speed exists and it is attributed to the start of wave breaking rather than the Kelvin–Helmholtz instability, but the air–sea boundary processes are not discontinuous at a particular wind speed; because of the stochastic nature of breaking waves, the changes occur over a range of wind speeds. Detailed discussions are presented on the dynamical processes associated with the critical wind speed such as wind-induced change of sea surface roughness and high frequency wave spectrum. Future studies are required, however, to clarify the dynamical processes quantitatively. In particular, there is a need to further examine the gradual change of breaking patterns of wind waves with the increase of wind speed, and the associated change of the structure of the wind over wind waves, such as separation of the airflow at the crest of wind waves, the turbulent stress, and wave-induced stress. Studies on the dynamical structure of the high frequency wave spectrum are also needed.  相似文献   

2.
Sea-surface roughness length fluctuating in concert with wind and waves   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  
When the nondimensional aerodynamic roughness parameter for the sea surface (gz 0/u * 2,g being the acceleration of gravity,u * the air friction velocity) is plotted as a function of the wave age, the data points in the diagram are distributed mostly in a triangle area between the Charnock formula and the Toba-Koga formula; the nondimensional roughness perameter is not expressed as a unique function of the wave age, but rather there seem to be multiple regimes. In order to investigate the cause of the data point scattering, a reanalysis was made of the 4.5-hour time series of the wind profile and wind-wave statistics which were obtained at an oceanographic tower station under the conditions of a winter monsoon wind having slightly fluctuating speed and steadily growing wind waves.It is concluded that the averaged variation ofz 0 is given by the Toba-Koga formula with a constant of value 0.015. However, as a result of the wind fluctuation on the time scales ranging from several minutes to an hour, data points show a conspicuous fluctuation on the nondimensional roughness parameter-wave age diagram in the direction transverse to the averaged variation. The variation inz 0 directly reflects the degree of over- or under-saturation in the high-frequency range of the wind-wave spectra. Physical interpretation of these variations is also presented.  相似文献   

3.
This paper describes the dispersal of droplets over breaking wind waves under the direct action of wind, based on a comparison between the actual distribution of droplet velocity and the wind field measured in a wind-wave tank (reference wind speed 16 m sec–1). The velocity distribution of droplets with a diameterd>0.81 mm over breaking wind waves was measured by Koga (1981). In this paper the wind field over breaking wind waves is measured by a flow visualization technique using styrofoam flakes as a tracer. The comparison allows a clear interpretation of droplet movement over the wave profile, and shows that the horizontal movement of the droplets ofd>0.81 mm is approximately determined by acceleration by the wind while their vertical movement is determined by acceleration due to gravity. These observations offer some support for the dispersion model proposed by Koga and Toba (1981).  相似文献   

4.
The relation between the intensity of breaking of individual wind-wave crests and parameters of wave size and wave form (e. g., height, period, steepness and skewness) is examined, and the process of change of these parameters is studied in a wind-wave tank (reference wind speed 15 m sec−1, fetch 16 m). Distributions of the wave form parameters are different for breaking and nonbreaking waves. Fully breaking waves seem to hold the relationH ∞T 2, whereH is the individual wave height andT is the period. The condition of breaking is not simply determined by the simple criterion of Stokes' limit. Wave height and steepness of a breaking wave are not always larger than those of a nonbreaking wave. This suggests the existence of an overshooting phenomenon in the breaking wave. The wave form parameters are found to change cyclically in a statistical sense during the wave propagation. The period of the cycle in the present case is estimated to be longer than four wave periods. An intermittency of wave breaking is associated with this cyclic process. Roughly speaking, two or three succeeding breaking-waves sporadically exist among a series of nonbreaking waves along the fetch.  相似文献   

5.
A new growth equation for wind waves of simple spectrum is presented upon three basic concepts. The period and the wave height of significant waves in dimensionless forms, which are considered to correspond to the peak frequency and the energy level, respectively, are used as representative quantities of wind waves. One of the three basic concepts is the concept of local balance, and the other two concern the acquisition of wave energy and the dissipation of wave energy, respectively. It is shown from some actual data that the equation, together with two universal constants concerning the acquisition and the dissipation of wave energy (B=6.2×10?2 andK=2.16×10?5, respectively), is applied universally to wide ranges of wind waves from those in a wind-wave tunnel to fully developed sea in the open ocean. “The three-second power law for wind waves of simple spectrum”, and a few relations as the lemmas, are derived, such that the mean surface transport due to the orbital motion of wind waves is always proportional to the friction velocity in wind, and that the steepness is inversely proportional to the root of the wave age. It is also derived that the portion of wind stress which directly enters the wind waves decreases exponentially with increasing wave age and is 7.5 % of the total wind stress for very young waves. Also, equations are presented as to the increase of momentum of drift current, and as to the supply of turbulent energy by wind waves into the upper ocean.  相似文献   

6.
Dependence of Whitecap Coverage on Wind and Wind-Wave Properties   总被引：13，自引：0，他引：13  
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7.
Observational data on air-sea boundary processes at the Shirahama Oceanographic Tower Station, Kyoto University, obtained in November, 1969, was analyzed and presented as an example representing the structure of growing wind-wave field. The condition was an ideal onshore wind, and the data contained continuous records of the wind speed at four heights, the wind direction, the air and water temperatures, the tides, and the growing wind waves, for more than six hours. The main results are as follows. Firstly, in both of the wind speed and the sea surface wind stress, rather conspicuous variations of about six-minute period were appreciable. Secondly, the three-seconds power law and its lemma expressed byH *=BT *3/2 and=2BT *–1/2, respectively, are very well supported by the data, whereH *(gH/u * 2) andT *(gT/u *) are the dimensionless significant wave height and period, respectively, the wave steepness,u * the friction velocity of air,g the acceleration of gravity, andB=0.062 is a universal constant. Thirdly, the spectral form for the high-frequency side of the spectral maximum is well expressed by the form of()= sgu*–4, where is the angular frequency and() the spectral density. The value of s is determined as 0.062±0.010 from the observational data. There is a conspicuous discrepancy between the spectral shape of wind waves obtained in wind-wave tunnels and those in the sea, the former containing well-defined higher harmonics of the spectral peak, and consequently there is an apparent difference in the values of s also. However, it is shown that the discrepancy of s may be eliminated by evaluating properly the energy level of the spectral form containing higher harmonics.  相似文献   

8.
The internal flow structure of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel was investigated on the bases of the measured vorticity distributions, streamline patterns, internal pressure fields, and stress distributions at the water surface for some waves in the field. In part I the experimental method and the internal vorticity structure relative to the individual wave crests are described. The measured vorticity distributions of distinct waves (waves with waveheight comparable with or larger than that of significant wavesH 1/3) in the field indicate that the surface vorticity layer is extraordinarily thickened near the crest, and the vorticity near the water surface shows a particularly large value below the crest. The flow near the crest of distinct waves is found to be in excess of the phase speed in a very thin surface layer, and the tangential stress distribution has a dominant peak near the crest. It is argued that the occurrence of the region of high vorticity in distinct waves is associated with the local generation of vorticity near the crest by tangential stress which attains a peak, under the presence of excess flow.  相似文献   

9.
《Applied Ocean Research》2005,27(4-5):235-250
The present study describes an experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action. In a wind wave flume, waves were generated using different wind speeds and measured at different locations to obtain wave trains of no, intermittent, or frequent breaking. Water particle movement and free surface elevation were measured simultaneously using a PIV system and a wave gauge, respectively. For wind waves, not all the waves measured at a fixed location are breaking waves, and the breaking of a larger wave is not guaranteed. However, the larger the wave height, the larger the probability of breaking. In order to take as many breaking waves as possible for the cases of frequent breaking, we used the waves whose heights were close to the highest one-tenth wave height. The experimental results showed that the geometric or kinematic breaking criteria could not explain the occurrence of breaking of wind waves. On the other hand, the vertical acceleration beneath the wave crest was close to the previously suggested limit value, −0.5g, when frequent breaking of large waves occurred, indicating that the dynamic breaking criterion would be good for discriminating breaking waves under a strong wind action.  相似文献   

10.
Based on the 45-year (09/1957-08/2008) European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Reanalysis (ERA-40) wave reanalysis dataset, this study analyzes interannual and interdecadal variabilities and intraseasonal oscillations of sea surface wind speed (WS), wind sea wave height (Hw), swell wave height (Hs) and significant wave height (Hs) in the Roaring Forties and tropical waters of the Indian Ocean, to determine swell propagation characteristics. The results show: (1) monthly variabilities of Hs in the Roaring Forties are in good agreement with those in tropical waters of the Indian Ocean; swell plays a dominant role in mixed waves throughout most of the Indian Ocean; and WS, Hw, Hs, and Hs exhibit a significant increasing trend over the 45-year study period. (2) Hs in the Roaring Forties and tropical waters of the Indian Ocean share a common period of 9.8–10.4 years on an interdecadal scale; and WS and Hs in the Roaring Forties and Hs in the tropical waters of the Indian Ocean share a common period of approximately 8 days (weekly oscillation) on an intraseasonal scale. (3) Swell of the Roaring Forties needs approximately 30 h to fully respond to the wind in this region. Approximately 84 h are required for Hs to propagate from the Roaring Forties to the tropical waters of the south Indian Ocean, while it takes approximately 132–138 h for Hs to propagate from the Roaring Forties to the tropical waters of the north Indian Ocean.  相似文献   

11.
A new set of empirical formulas for the production rate and the number concentration of sea-water droplets on the sea surface are proposed, synthesizing past observation data of sea-salt particles in the sea and water droplets in wind-wave tanks. A new levelz c is introduced as the effective wind-sea surface where seawater droplets are produced. The new formulas are expressed in linear functions in logarithmic scales ofu*2/v p , a parameter to describe overall conditions of airsea boundary processes, whereu * is the friction velocity of air,v the kinematic viscosity of air and p the peak angular frequency of wind-wave part of wave spectra. A model of coexistence of spray droplets and suspended particles near the sea surface is proposed. As for the independent parameter, a comparison between the uses ofu*2/v p and ofu * 3 which was the traditional way of parameterization excluding wave measure, shows that the advantage of usingu*2/v p is statistically significant with a confidence limit 89% in F-test.  相似文献   

12.
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13.
Adjustment of Wind Waves to Sudden Changes of Wind Speed   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
An experiment was conducted in a small wind-wave facility at the Ocean Engineering Laboratory, California, to address the following question: when the wind speed changes rapidly, how quickly and in what manner do the short wind waves respond? To answer this question we have produced a very rapid change in wind speed between U low (4.6 m s?1) and U high (7.1 m s?1). Water surface elevation and air turbulence were monitored up to a fetch of 5.5 m. The cycle of increasing and decreasing wind speed was repeated 20 times to assure statistical accuracy in the measurement by taking an ensemble mean. In this way, we were able to study in detail the processes by which the young laboratory wind waves adjust to wind speed perturbations. We found that the wind-wave response occurs over two time scales determined by local equilibrium adjustment and fetch adjustment, Δt 1/T = O(10) and Δt 2/T = O(100), respectively, in the current tank. The steady state is characterized by a constant non-dimensional wave height (H/gT 2 or equivalently, the wave steepness for linear gravity waves) depending on wind speed. This equilibrium state was found in our non-steady experiments to apply at all fetches, even during the long transition to steady state, but only after a short initial relaxation Δt 1/T of O(10) following a sudden change in wind speed. The complete transition to the new steady state takes much longer, Δt 2/T of O(100) at the largest fetch, during which time energy propagates over the entire fetch along the rays (dx/dt = c g) and grows under the influence of wind pumping. At the same time, frequency downshifts. Although the current study is limited in scale variations, we believe that the suggestion that the two adjustment time scales are related to local equilibrium adjustment and fetch adjustment is also applicable to the ocean.  相似文献   

14.
The minimum value of wind stress under which the flow velocity in short wind waves exceeds the phase speed is estimated by calculating the laminar boundary layer flow induced by the surface tangential stress with a dominant peak at the wave crest as observed in previous experiments. The minimum value of the wind stress is found to depend strongly on, the ratio of the flow velocity just below the boundary layer and the phase speed, but weakly onL, the wavelength. For wind waves previously studied (=0.5,L=10 cm), the excess flow appears when the air friction velocityu * is larger than about 30 cm sec–1. The present results confirm that the excess flow found in my previous experiments is associated with the local growth of a laminar boundary layer flow near the wave crest.  相似文献   

15.
Breaking wave loads on coastal structures depend primarily on the type of wave breaking at the instant of impact. When a wave breaks on a vertical wall with an almost vertical front face called the “perfect breaking”, the greatest impact forces are produced. The correct prediction of impact forces from perfect breaking of waves on seawalls and breakwaters is closely dependent on the accurate determination of their configurations at breaking. The present study is concerned with the determination of the geometrical properties of perfect breaking waves on composite-type breakwaters by employing artificial neural networks. Using a set of laboratory data, the breaker crest height, hb, breaker height, Hb, and water depth in front of the wall, dw, from perfect breaking of waves on composite breakwaters are predicted using the artificial neural network technique and the results are compared with those obtained from linear and multi-linear regression models. The comparisons of the predicted results from the present models with measured data show that the hb, Hb and dw values, which represent the geometry of waves breaking directly on composite breakwaters, can be predicted more accurately by artificial neural networks compared to linear and multi-linear regressions.  相似文献   

16.
Dependence of sea surface drag coefficient on wind-wave parameters   总被引：3，自引：2，他引：1  
The relationships between sea surface roughness z 0 and wind-wave parameters are analyzed,and spurious self-correlations are found in all of the parameterization schemes.Sea surface drag coefficient C D is fitted by four wind-wave parameters that are wave age,wave steepness,windsea Reynolds number R B and R H ,and the analyzed data are divided into laboratory,field and combined data sets respectively.Comparison and analysis of dependence of C D on wind-wave parameters show that R B can fit the C D most appropriately.Wave age and wave steepness are not suitable to fit C D with a narrow range data set.When the value of wave age has a board range,R H is not suitable to fit C D either.Three relationships between C D and R B are integrated into the bulk algorithm COARE to calculate the observational friction velocity,and the results show that the relationship between C D and R B which is fitted with field data set can describe the momentum transfer in the open ocean,under low-moderate wind speed condition,most appropriately.  相似文献   

17.
The problems of wind-induced waves on the sea surface are considered. To this end, the empirical fetch laws that determine variations in the basic periods and heights of waves in relation to their fetch are used. The relation between the fetch and the physical time is found, as are the dependences of the basic characteristics of waves on the time of wind forcing. It is found that about 5% of wind energy dissipated in the near-water air layer contributes to the growth of wave heights, i.e. wave energy, although this quantity depends on the age of waves and the exponent in the fetch laws. With consideration for estimates of the probability distribution functions for the wind over the world ocean [11], it is found that the rate of wind-energy dissipation in the near-water air layer is on the order of 1 W/m2. The calculations of wind waves [19] for the world ocean for 2007 have made it possible to assess the mean characteristics of the cycle of wave development and their seasonal variations. An analysis of these calculations [19] shows that about 20% of wind energy is transferred to the water surface. The remaining amount (80%) of wind energy is spent on the generation of turbulence in the near-water air layer. About 2%, i.e., one tenth of the energy transferred to water, is spent on turbulence generation due to the instability of the vertical velocity profile of the Stokes drift current and on energy dissipation in the surf zones. Of the remaining 18%, 5% is spent directly on wave growth and 13% is spent on the generation of turbulence during wave breaking and on a small-scale spectral region. These annually and globally mean estimates have a seasonal cycle with an amplitude on the order of 20% in absolute values but with a smaller amplitude in relative values. According to [19] and to the results of this study, the annually mean height of waves is estimated as 2.7 m and their age is estimated as 1.17.  相似文献   

18.
A model for the downward transfer of wind momentum is derived for growing waves. It is shown that waves, which grow due to an uneven pressure distribution on the water surface or a wave-coherent surface shear stress have horizontal velocities out of phase with the surface elevation. Further, if the waves grow in the x-direction, while the motion is perhaps time-periodic at any fixed point, the Reynolds stresses associated with the organized motion are positive. This is in agreement with several field and laboratory measurements which were previously unexplained, and the new theory successfully links measured wave growth rates and measured sub-surface Reynolds stresses. Wave coherent air pressure (and/or surface shear stress) is shown to change the speed of wave propagation as well as inducing growth or decay. From air pressure variations that are in phase with the surface elevation, the influence on the waves is simply a phase speed increase. For pressure variations out of phase with surface elevation, both growth (or decay) and phase speed changes occur. The theory is initially developed for long waves, after which the velocity potential and dispersion relation for linear waves in arbitrary depth are given. The model enables a sounder model for the transfer to storm surges or currents of momentum from breaking waves in that it does not rely entirely on ad-hoc turbulent diffusion. Future models of atmosphere-ocean exchanges should also acknowledge that momentum is transferred partly by the organized wave motion, while other species, like heat and gasses, may rely totally on turbulent diffusion. The fact that growing wind waves do in fact not generally obey the dispersion relation for free waves may need to be considered in future wind wave development models.  相似文献   

19.
进一步研究强风条件下海-气湍流动量交换以及海浪特征,有助于提高数值天气模式对台风强度演变、移动路径以及恶劣海况的预报能力。依照前人的方法将台风分为风向与浪向(1)相同,(2)相反,和(3)交叉3个扇形区,并结合台风路径数据,得到了浮标数据相对于台风的方位。分别对3种类型的浮标数据进行分析,进而发现了波浪高度和相速度随风速增加而变化的规律。并利用GWW参数化方案计算出摩擦速度(u*)、拖曳系数(CDN)和粗糙长度(z0)。将这些结果与前人代表性的研究论文中所用观测数据和所得研究结论进行比较,结果表明二者有较强的一致性。该研究证明GWW参数化方案在强风条件下依然有很好的适用性。  相似文献   

20.
Wave run-up on foundations is a very important factor in the design of entrance platforms for offshore wind turbines. When the Horns Reef 1 wind turbine park in Denmark was designed the vertical wave run-up phenomenon was not well known in the industry, hence not sufficiently considered in the design of Horns Reef 1. As a consequence damage was observed on the platforms. This has been the situation for several sites and design tools for platform loads are lacking. As a consequence a physical model test study was initiated at Aalborg University to clarify wave run-up on cylindrical piles for different values of diameter to water depth ratios (D/h) and different wave heights to water depth ratios (H/h) for both regular and irregular waves. A calculation model is calibrated based on stream function theory for crest kinematics and velocity head stagnation theory. Due to increased velocities close to the pile an empirical factor is included on the velocity head. The evaluation of the calculation model shows that an accurate design rule can be established even in breaking wave conditions. However, calibration of a load model showed that it was necessary to increase the run-up factor on the velocity head by 40% to take into account the underestimation of run-up for breaking or nearly breaking waves given that they produce thin run-up wedges and air entrainment, two factors not coped with by the measurement system.  相似文献   

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