共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 298 毫秒
1.
Dependence of Whitecap Coverage on Wind and Wind-Wave Properties 总被引：13，自引：0，他引：13
2.
Li Luping 《海洋学报(英文版)》1997,16(1):45-56
In this paper, it is held that the universal relationships of wave growth in fetch-limited conditions , i. e.,(f|~) p=A(x|~)-Band (m|~)0= C(x|~) Dshould satisfy the Toba 3/2 power law and the wave energy balance equation. In the ideal generation situation, theoretically it can be derived that the ideal fetch-limited wave growth relationship should have D=3B and D B =1, (i.e., B = 0.25, D = 0.75 ) and A3C=2. 1×l(T4C~(1/2)_d , where Cd is the drag coefficient. The 3/2 power law, the wave energy balance equation and the decrease of wave steepness with increasing fetch have became three requirements which should be satisfied by fetch-limited wave growth algorithms. A semi-empirical and semi-theoretical model for fetch-limited wave growth is presented. In the application to the slanting wind situation an un(?)ersal relationship of dimensionless wave energy vs dimensionless peak frequency is presented and the comparisons show that the model is in good agreement with observations. 相似文献
3.
The effect of swell on the drag coefficient, C
D, observed at the Hiratsuka Tower Station, presented by Suzuki et al. (1998, 2002), has been investigated. C
D increases sharply with the windsea Reynolds number, R
B, when there is a counter swell against the windsea direction, and only gradually when the swell comes from a mixture of directions.
In cases where 2-D wave spectra were unavailable (1998, and others), swells showed a scattering effect compared with the pure
windsea case on the C
D-R
B Diagram. R
B is a useful parameter for investigating the effect of swells and further systematic accumulation of appropriate data is needed. 相似文献
4.
Momoki Koga 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(2):105-114
The relation between the intensity of breaking of individual wind-wave crests and parameters of wave size and wave form (e. g., height, period, steepness and skewness) is examined, and the process of change of these parameters is studied in a wind-wave
tank (reference wind speed 15 m sec−1, fetch 16 m). Distributions of the wave form parameters are different for breaking and nonbreaking waves. Fully breaking
waves seem to hold the relationH ∞T
2, whereH is the individual wave height andT is the period. The condition of breaking is not simply determined by the simple criterion of Stokes' limit. Wave height and
steepness of a breaking wave are not always larger than those of a nonbreaking wave. This suggests the existence of an overshooting
phenomenon in the breaking wave. The wave form parameters are found to change cyclically in a statistical sense during the
wave propagation. The period of the cycle in the present case is estimated to be longer than four wave periods. An intermittency
of wave breaking is associated with this cyclic process. Roughly speaking, two or three succeeding breaking-waves sporadically
exist among a series of nonbreaking waves along the fetch. 相似文献
5.
Experimental investigations on perforated hollow piles in two rows were conducted in a two dimensional wave flume. The influence of water depth, incident wave steepness, clear spacing between the piles and the spacing of pile rows on transmission coefficient have been studied. The effect of staggering of piles in rows is investigated. The results are also compared with the results of experiments on piles without perforations. The investigations have revealed that perforated piles attenuate more wave energy than non-perforated piles. The transmission coefficient Kt decreases as the wave steepness increases for both non-perforated and perforated piles. For non-perforated piles as relative clear spacing between the piles (b/D) decreases, for waves of higher steepness, Kt decreases while for perforated piles as b/D decreases, Kt is decreasing for all the steepness considered. As the relative clear spacing between the pile rows (B/D) increases Kt initially decreases till B/D is around one and later it starts increasing for both non-perforated and perforated piles. Staggering of piles has little effect on Kt. It is also found that water depth has insignificant influence on transmission coefficient at higher steepness for both perforated and non-perforated piles. Wave period alone does not directly influence transmission coefficient Kt. 相似文献
6.
The experimental results have so far shown that when a wave breaks on a vertical wall with an almost vertical front face at the instant of impact that is called perfect breaking or perfect impact, the greatest impact forces are produced on the wall. Therefore, the configuration of breaking waves is important in the design considerations of coastal structures. The present study is concerned with determining the geometrical properties of oscillatory waves that break perfectly on the vertical wall of composite-type breakwaters. The laboratory tests for perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters are conducted with base slopes of 1/2, 1/4 and 1/6, and with berm widths of 0.00, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30 and 0.40 m. The shape and the dimensions of waves at the instant of perfect breaking on the wall are determined using a video camera. The experimental results for the geometrical properties of the breakers are presented non-dimensionally. Within the range of present experimental conditions, it is found that the dimensionless breaker crest height, hb/dw, and dimensionless breaker height, Hb/dw, decrease; and, dimensionless breaker depth, dw/H0, increases with increasing relative berm width, B/D. The breaker height index, Hb/H0, is almost unaffected by B/D. The deep-water wave steepness and the base slope of the breakwater do not seem to influence the geometrical properties of the breakers at wall systematically. 相似文献
7.
Examination of wind-wave interaction source term in WAVEWATCH III with tropical cyclone wind forcing
Results of drag coefficient(CD) from field observations and laboratory wave tank experiments indicate that the operational wave model can overestimate wind energy input under high wind conditions. The wind-wave interaction source term in WAVEWATCH Ⅲ has been modified to examine its behavior with tropical cyclone wind forcing. Using high resolution wind input,numerical experiments under idealized wind field and tropical cyclone Bonnie(1998) were designed to evaluate performance of the modified models. Both experiments indicate that the modified models with reduced CD significantly decrease wind energy input into the wave model and then simulate lower significant wave height(SWH) than the original model. However,the effects on spatial distribution of SWH,mean wavelength,mean wave direction,and directional wave spectra are insignificant. Due to the reduced wind energy input,the idealized experiment shows that the modified models simulate lower SWH than the original model in all four quadrants. The decrease in the front quadrants is significantly larger than that in the rear quadrants;it is larger under higher winds than lower winds. The realistic experiment on tropical cyclone Bonnie shows that the modified model with the various downward trends of CD in high winds creates a simulation that agrees best with scanning radar altimeter observations. 相似文献
8.
9.
Experimental data of equilibrium shorelines behind a detached breakwater obtained by previous investigators were collected and re-reviewed to investigate the major parameters affecting the shoreline shapes. The result shows that the equilibrium shorelines depend not only on the breakwater length B and the distance of the breakwater from the initial shoreline S, but also on the incident wave steepness H0/L0, beach slope Sb and the sand size D50. Most of equilibrium shorelines behind a detached breakwater could be approximately described by a couple of elliptic curves as proposed by McCormick (Ports, Coastal & Ocean Engineering ASCE 119, 1993, p. 657). However, after re-examination, this paper shows that the dimensionless semiminor axis b/S and the dimensionless distance G/b in the McCormick’s elliptic-curve model should be modified, as compared with the available experimental data. The modified expressions of b/S and G/b were proposed, and the performances of the modified expressions were also detaily examined in this paper. 相似文献
10.
Paul C. Liu 《Ocean Engineering》1983,10(6):429-441
This paper proposes the following generalized representation for a wind-wave frequency spectrum:
where E = ∫S(f)df is the variance of the surface displacement; fm is the frequency of the spectral peak; and Ci's, i = 1,2,3, are dimensionless parameters that can be determined from the internal spectral parameters of a given spectrum.When applied to 234 sets of wave spectra recorded in the Great Lakes, this representation has been realistic, accurate, and capable of representing widely varied wave processes. The Ci's are clearly related to wave growth processes; they are large during early growth, decrease as waves grow, and reach approximate equilibrium when waves are fully developed. 相似文献
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11.
Inter-comparison of model-predicted wave heights with satellite altimeter measurements in the north Indian Ocean 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A numerical model based on a wind-wave energy transport formulation of Toba is developed to generate hindcast wave height data for the equatorial and the north Indian Ocean, which is otherwise a data-sparse region. The intercomparison between model-predicted wave heights for three years (1987–1989) obtained utilising analysed surface wind fields' data, and model grid averaged GEOSAT Altimeter significant wave height data showed moderate match, particularly for HS greater than 1 m. 相似文献
12.
V. G. Polnikov 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2010,46(4):511-523
Based on different modifications of the source function in the WAM(C4) wind-wave model, a large series of verification calculations
aimed at increasing the quality of the numerical model (with respect to the parameters of accuracy and performance) is performed.
We propose a methodology allowing us to solve the following fundamental and practical problems of numerical modeling: (1)
determining the minimum interval of verification of numerical wind-wave models, (2) finding a criterion for choosing the best
model out of all models subjected to verification, and (3) formulating the accuracy requirement for specifying the input field
necessary for the given accuracy of wind-wave field calculations. Particularly, we have found that (a) the minimum term of
verification calculations for numerical wind-wave models is three months; (b) according to our criterion, the proposed modification
of the WAM model impartially is “essentially preferable” to the original model; and (c) the relative errors (yielded by the
proposed version of the WAM model) in the calculated wave heights ρH
s
and average periods ρT
m
for different levels of the relative error of the input wind-wave field ρW make it possible to solve the third problem mentioned
above. 相似文献
13.
Predictions of maximum wave height Hmax are made at Cromer, Happisburgh and Lowestoft on the East Anglian Coast using the formula Hmax = CKRKS U2/g where C is a constant, KR, KS are refraction and shoaling cofficients, U is wind speed and g is the acceleration due to gravity. Comparisonsare made with the models of Darbyshire Draper (1963) and Bretschneider (1958) Using this wave prediction formula, an estimate of the wave climate in the southern North Sea is deduced for the gales of 2–3 January 1976. 相似文献
14.
When the nondimensional aerodynamic roughness parameter for the sea surface (gz
0/u
*
2,g being the acceleration of gravity,u
* the air friction velocity) is plotted as a function of the wave age, the data points in the diagram are distributed mostly in a triangle area between the Charnock formula and the Toba-Koga formula; the nondimensional roughness perameter is not expressed as a unique function of the wave age, but rather there seem to be multiple regimes. In order to investigate the cause of the data point scattering, a reanalysis was made of the 4.5-hour time series of the wind profile and wind-wave statistics which were obtained at an oceanographic tower station under the conditions of a winter monsoon wind having slightly fluctuating speed and steadily growing wind waves.It is concluded that the averaged variation ofz
0 is given by the Toba-Koga formula with a constant of value 0.015. However, as a result of the wind fluctuation on the time scales ranging from several minutes to an hour, data points show a conspicuous fluctuation on the nondimensional roughness parameter-wave age diagram in the direction transverse to the averaged variation. The variation inz
0 directly reflects the degree of over- or under-saturation in the high-frequency range of the wind-wave spectra. Physical interpretation of these variations is also presented. 相似文献
15.
The stability of the antifer units used on breakwaters in case of irregular placement 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The primary aim of the study is to experimentally investigate the stability performance of antifer units on the trunk section of breakwaters under the effect of regular and irregular waves in case of irregular placement. The stability performance tests were conducted for different slopes, i.e. cot α=1.25, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, under irregular waves and for cot α=2.5 under regular waves. Hudson’s formula was employed in order to characterize the stability performance of antifer units for the irregular placement technique. Different representative wave height parameters, i.e. Hs, H1/10 and Hmax, were examined to determine the one best characterizing breakwater stability. Furthermore, the effects of wave period and wave steepness on the stability of the breakwater were explored. 相似文献
16.
This study investigates the applicability of neural networks to predict whether impact wave force will act on the upright section of a composite breakwater. We employ a three-layered neural network whose units of input layer are h/L, H/h, d/h and BM/h (h: the total water depth; L: the wavelength; H: the wave height; d: the water depth above the mound; BM: the horizontal distance from the shoulder of mound to the caisson). Teach signals are 0.99 and 0.01 according to the cases of occurrence and absence of impact wave force, respectively. The neural network whose parameters are determined through self-learning can accurately predict whether impact wave force occurs. 相似文献
17.
人放天养的中华绒螯蟹(Eriocheir sinensis)质量好、个体大、耐运输、肉质鲜美,是优质高档蟹的代表,但产量严重不足。建立一套湖泊中华绒螯蟹自然生产潜力估算的模型来估算湖泊中华绒螯蟹自然生产潜力,确定放养量,以达到湖泊中华绒螯蟹稳产已迫在眉睫。本文根据近20年来作者对湖泊中华绒螯蟹放养的经验,结合灰估理论,提出蟹自然生产潜力:W=[B1K1C1/R1+B2K2C2/R2]·(B1+B2)2/B12+B2和蟹种放养量:W0=P0[B1K1C1/R1+B2K2C2/R2]·U/P估算模型,并与生产实践进行求证。其结果与生产实践存在较好的一致性。其估算结果可作为指导湖泊中华绒螯蟹生产的依据。 相似文献
18.
Mooring forces in horizontal interlaced moored floating pipe breakwater with three layers 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
The paper presents the results from model scale experiments on the study of forces in the moorings of horizontally interlaced, multi-layered, moored floating pipe breakwaters. The studies are conducted with breakwater models having three layers subjected to waves of steepness Hi/L (Hi is the incident wave height and L the wavelength) varying from 0.0066 to 0.0464, relative width W/L (W is the width of breakwater) varying from 0.4 to 2.65, and relative spacing S/D (S is the spacing of pipes and D the diameter of pipe) of 2 and 4. The variation of measured normalized mooring forces on the seaward side and leeward side are analyzed by plotting non-dimensional graphs depicting f/γW2 (f is the force in the mooring per unit length of the breakwater, γ the weight density of sea water) as a function W/L for various values of Hi/d (d is the depth of water). It is found that the force in the seaward side mooring increases with an increase in Hi/L for d/W values ranging between 0.081 and 0.276. The experimental results also reveal that the forces in the seaward side mooring decrease as W/L increases, up to a value of W/L=1.3, and then increases with an increase in W/L. It is also observed that the wave attenuation characteristics of breakwater model with relative spacing of 4 is better than that of the model with relative spacing of 2. The maximum force in the seaward side mooring for model with S/D=4 is lower compared to that for the breakwater model with S/D=2. A multivariate non-linear regression analysis has been carried out for the data on mooring forces for the seaside and leeside. 相似文献
19.
Yoshiaki Toba 《Journal of Oceanography》1972,28(3):109-120
A new growth equation for wind waves of simple spectrum is presented upon three basic concepts. The period and the wave height of significant waves in dimensionless forms, which are considered to correspond to the peak frequency and the energy level, respectively, are used as representative quantities of wind waves. One of the three basic concepts is the concept of local balance, and the other two concern the acquisition of wave energy and the dissipation of wave energy, respectively. It is shown from some actual data that the equation, together with two universal constants concerning the acquisition and the dissipation of wave energy (B=6.2×10?2 andK=2.16×10?5, respectively), is applied universally to wide ranges of wind waves from those in a wind-wave tunnel to fully developed sea in the open ocean. “The three-second power law for wind waves of simple spectrum”, and a few relations as the lemmas, are derived, such that the mean surface transport due to the orbital motion of wind waves is always proportional to the friction velocity in wind, and that the steepness is inversely proportional to the root of the wave age. It is also derived that the portion of wind stress which directly enters the wind waves decreases exponentially with increasing wave age and is 7.5 % of the total wind stress for very young waves. Also, equations are presented as to the increase of momentum of drift current, and as to the supply of turbulent energy by wind waves into the upper ocean. 相似文献