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1.
LI Ruijie WANG Houjie
Dr. Associate Professor Engineering College of Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China
Ph. D. Candidate Engineering College of Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China 《中国海洋工程》1999,(3)
Nonlinear effect is of importance to waves propagating from deep water to shallow water.Thenon-linearity of waves is widely discussed due to its high precision in application.But there are still someproblems in dealing with the nonlinear waves in practice.In this paper,a modified form of mild-slope equa-tion with weakly nonlinear effect is derived by use of the nonlinear dispersion relation and the steady mild-slope equation containing energy dissipation.The modified form of mild-slope equation is convenient to solvenonlinear effect of waves.The model is tested against the laboratory measurement for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach given by Berkhoff et al,The present numerical results are also comparedwith those obtained through linear wave theory.Better agreement is obtained as the modified mild-slope e-quation is employed.And the modified mild-slope equation can reasonably simulate the weakly nonlinear ef-fect of wave propagation from deep water to coast. 相似文献
2.
In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone. 相似文献
3.
Two types of analytical solutions for waves propagating over an asymmetric trench are derived. One is a long-wave solution and the other is a mild-slope solution, which is applicable to deeper water. The water depth inside the trench varies in proportion to a power of the distance from the center of the trench (which is the deepest water depth point and the origin of x-coordinate in this study). The mild-slope equation is transformed into a second-order ordinary differential equation with variable coefficients based on the longwave assumption [Hunt's, 1979. Direct solution of wave dispersion equation. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coast. and Ocean Engineering 105, 457–459] as approximate solution for wave dispersion. The analytical solutions are then obtained by using the power series technique. The analytical solutions are compared with the numerical solution of the hyperbolic mild-slope equations. After obtaining the analytical solutions under various conditions, the results are analyzed. 相似文献
4.
Wave shoaling and diffraction in current over a mild-slope 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
The wave relative frequency in the coordinate system moving with current and the angle between the direction of wave propagation and that of current are computed based on the wave dispersion relation. The current field is computed by solving the depth averaged shallow water equations. The wave field is computed by solving the mildslope equation which has taken the current‘s effect into account. A numerical model is established using a finite element method for simulating the wave shoaling and diffraction in current over a mild-slope, and the numerical results are reasonable to compare with the experimental data. 相似文献
5.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,44(1):1-12
In order to verify modified mild-slope equation models in a horizontal two-dimensional space, a hydraulic experiment is made for surface wave propagation over a circular shoal on which water depth varies substantially. A horizontal two-dimensional numerical model is also constructed based on the hyperbolic equations that have been developed from the modified mild-slope equation to account for the substantial depth variation. Comparison between experimental measurements and numerical results shows that the modified mild-slope equation model is capable of producing accurate results for wave propagation in a region where water depth varies substantially, while the conventional mild-slope equation model gives large errors as the mild-slope assumption is violated. 相似文献
6.
考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3
提出了逼近Kirby和Dalrymple的非线性弥散关系的显式非线性弥散关系的表达式,该显式表达式与他们的非线性弥散关系的精度几乎完全相同.采用显式非线性弥散关系,结合含弱非线性效应的缓坡方程,得到考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型,并对该数学模型进行了数值验证.结果表明,考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型更为精确. 相似文献
7.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(6):513-533
Using the perturbation method, a time dependent parabolic equation is developed based on the elliptic mild slope equation with dissipation term. With the time dependent parabolic equation employed as the governing equation, a numerical model for wave propagation including dissipation term in water of slowly varying topography is presented in curvilinear coordinates. In the model, the self-adaptive grid generation method is employed to generate a boundary-fitted and varying spacing mesh. The numerical tests show that the effects of dissipation term should be taken into account if the distance of wave propagation is large, and that the outgoing boundary conditions can be treated more effectively by introduction of the dissipation term into the numerical model. The numerical model is able to give good results of simulating wave propagation for waters of complicatedly boundaries and effectively predict physical processes of wave propagation. Moreover, the errors of the analytical solution deduced by Kirby et al. (1994) [Kirby, J.T., Dalrymple, R.A., Kabu, H., 1994. Parabolic approximation for water waves in conformal coordinate systems. Coastal Engineering 23, 185–213.] from the small-angle parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation for the case of waves between diverging breakwaters in a polar coordinate system are corrected. 相似文献
8.
在近岸缓坡浅水海岸,波浪破碎产生沿岸流是近岸海域流场的重要组成部分,它对污染物输移扩散规律的影响重大,在高阶近似抛物化缓坡方程求解大面积波浪场基础上,建立了波浪作用下污染物输移扩散数学模型.计算结果与不同坡度均匀斜坡地形上具有不同波高、周期的规则波及不规则波浪作用下污染物输移扩散实验结果进行了比较,分析了各种因素对波浪作用下沿岸流分布规律影响,所得结论认为地形坡度及入射波高对污染物输移扩散的影响较大,波浪作用将使缓坡海滩上污染物的输移扩散平行岸线方向. 相似文献
9.
A numerical model is presented in this study to investigate the wave transformation over a submerged permeable breakwater on a porous slope seabed. For this purpose, the time-dependent mild-slope equation is newly derived for waves propagating over two layers of porous medium. This new mild-slope equation involves the parameters of the porous medium, and it is a type of hyperbolic differential equation, therefore numerically efficient. The validity of the present model is verified based on the comparisons with the previous experiments. The effects of the permeable properties of both the porous seabed and the submerged permeable breakwater are discussed in detail. The geometry of the submerged permeable breakwater to the wave transformation is also investigated based on the numerical solutions. 相似文献
10.
Owing to lack of observational data and accurate definition,it is difficult to distinguish the Kuroshio intrusion water from the Pacific Ocean into the South China Sea(SCS).By using a passive tracer to identify the Kuroshio water based on an observation-validated three-dimensional numerical model MITgcm,the spatio-temporal variation of the Kuroshio intrusion water into the SCS has been investigated.Our result shows the Kuroshio intrusion is of distinct seasonal variation in both horizontal and vertical directions.In winter,the intruding Kuroshio water reaches the farthest,almost occupying the area from 18°N to 23°N and 114°E to 121°E,with a small branch flowing towards the Taiwan Strait.The intrusion region of the Kuroshio water decreases with depth gradually.However,in summer,the Kuroshio water is confined to the east of 118°E without any branch reaching the Taiwan Strait;meanwhile the intrusion region of the Kuroshio water increases from the surface to the depth about 205 m,then it decreases with depth.The estimated annual mean of Kuroshio Intrusion Transport(KIT) via the Luzon Strait is westward to the SCS in an amount of –3.86×106 m3/s,which is larger than the annual mean of Luzon Strait Transport(LST) of –3.15×106 m3/s.The KIT above 250 m accounts for 60%–80% of the LST throughout the entire water column.By analyzing interannual variation of the Kuroshio intrusion from the year 2003 to 2012,we find that the Kuroshio branch flowing into the Taiwan Strait is the weaker in winter of La Ni?a years than those in El Ni?o and normal years,which may be attributed to the wind stress curl off the southeast China then.Furthermore,the KIT correlates the Ni?o 3.4 index from 2003 to 2012 with a correlation coefficient of 0.41,which is lower than that of the LST with the Ni?o 3.4 index,i.e.,0.78. 相似文献
11.
Nonlinear Dispersion Relation in Wave Transformation 总被引：13，自引：1，他引：13
1 .Ｉｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎ1ＴｈｉｓｗｏｒｋｗａｓｆｉｎａｎｃｉａｌｌｙｓｕｐｐｏｒｔｅｄｂｙｔｈｅＮａｔｕｒａｌＳｃｉｅｎｃｅＦｏｕｎｄａｔｉｏｎｏｆＣｈｉｎａ (ＧｒａｎｔＮｏ .4 0 0 760 2 6ａｎｄ 4 0 0 760 2 8) Ｃｏｒｒｅｓｐｏｎｄｉｎｇａｕｔｈｏｒ.Ｅ ｍａｉｌ:ｒｊｌｉ@ｈｈｕ .ｅｄｕ .ｃｎ Ｉｔｉｓａｖｅｒｙｕｓｅｆｕｌａｎｄｅｆｆｅｃｔｉｖｅｗａｙｔｏａｄｊｕｓｔｔｈｅｗａｖｅｄｉｓｐｅｒｓｉｏｎｒｅｌａｔｉｏｎｆｏｒｔｈｅｓｔｕｄｙｏｆｔｈｅｎｏｎ ｌｉｎｅａｒｉｔｙｏｆｗａｖｅｐｒｏ… 相似文献
12.
In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave propagated to a coastal zone from different directions. 相似文献
13.
14.
A numerical model based on the mild-slope equation is applied to reproduce the propagation of small-amplitude transient waves. The model makes use of the Fourier Transform to convert the time-dependent hyperbolic equation into a set of elliptic equations in the frequency domain. The results of two available experimental studies on tsunamis generated by landslides are used to validate the model, which appears to be able of carefully reproducing the effects of the frequency dispersion. An example application of tsunamis propagating around the Stromboli island is also presented to show the applicability of the present approach to real life scenarios. It is finally discussed how this model could be applied as support to a tsunami early warning system. 相似文献
15.
Numerical Modeling of Wave Diffraction-Refraction in Water of Varying Current and Topography 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：2
FENG Weibing 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(1):45-58
—A numerical model for wave diffraction-refraction in water of varying current and topogra-phy is proposed,and time-dependent wave mild-slope equation with a dissipation term and correspondingequivalent governing equations are presented.Two different expressions of parabolic approximations forthe case of the absence of current are also given and analyzed.The influence of current on the results ofsimulation of waves is discussed.Some examples show that the present model is better than others in simu-lating wave transformation in large water areas.And they also show that the influence of current shouldbe taken into account,on numerical modeling of wave propagation in water of strong current and coastalareas,otherwise the modeling results will be largely distorted. 相似文献
16.
Nonlinear Dispersion Effect on Wave Transformation 总被引：5，自引：2，他引：3
—A new nonlinear dispersion relation is given in this paper.which can overcome the limitationof the intermediate minimum value in the dispersion relation proposed by Kirby and Dalrymple(1986).and which has a better approximation to Hedges'empirical relation than the modified relations by Hedges(1987).Kirby and Dalrymple(1987)for shallow waters.The new dispersion relation is simple in form.thusit can be used easily in practice.Meanwhile,a general explicit approximation to the new dispersion rela-tion and other nonlinear dispersion relations is given.By use of the explicit approximation to the newdispersion relation along with the mild slope equation taking into account weakly nonlinear effect.amathematical model is obtained,and it is applied to laboratory data.The results show that the model de-veloped with the new dispersion relation predicts wave transformation over complicated topography quitewell. 相似文献
17.
Numerical study of pollutant movement in waves and wave-induced long-shore currents in surf zone 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Water waves, wave-induced long-shore currents and movement of pollutants in waves and currents have been numerically studied based on the hyperbolic mild-slope equation, the shallow water equation , as well as the pollutant movement equation, and the numerical results have also been validated by experimental data. It is shown that the long-shore current velocity and wave set-up increase with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore plane ; the wave set-up increases with the in- creasing incident wave period;and the pollutant morement proceeds more quiekly with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore palane. In surf zones, the long-shore currents induced by the inclined incident waves have effectively affected the pollutant movement. 相似文献
18.
非结构化网格下近岸波生流数值模拟 总被引：5，自引：2，他引：3
波浪破碎产生的近岸流是近岸海域关键的水动力因素之一。基于近岸波浪的椭圆型缓坡方程和二维近岸波生流方程,建立了非结构化网格下近岸波浪破碎形成的近岸流数值模型。数值模型中,在空间上采用有限体积法进行数值离散,在时间上采用欧拉向前格式数值离散。数值计算结果表明,该数值模型可以有效地模拟近岸波浪破碎产生的近岸流。 相似文献
19.
The mild-slope equation is familiar to coastal engineers as it can effectively describe wave propagation in nearshore regions. However,its computational method in Cartesian coordinates often renders the model inaccurate in areas with irregular shorelines,such as estuaries and harbors. Based on the hyperbolic mild-slope equation in Cartesian coordinates,the numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is developed. The transformed model is discretized by the finite difference method and solved by th... 相似文献
20.
This paper presents the numerical solution of a new nonlinear mild-slope equation governing waves with different frequency components propagating in a region of varying water depth. There are two new nonlinear equations. The linear part of the equations is the mild-slope equation, and one of the models has the same non-linearity as the Boussinesq equations. The new equations are directly applicable to the problems of nonlinear wave-wave interactions over variable depth. The equations are first simplified with the parabolic approximation, and then solved numerically with a finite difference method. The Crank-Nicolson method is used to discretize the models. The numerical models are applied to a set of published experimental cases, which are nonlinear combined refraction-diffraction with generation of higher harmonic waves. Comparison of the results shows that the present models generally predict the measurements better than other nonlinear numerical models which have been applied to the data set. 相似文献