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1.
为了说明波浪场中浓度输移扩散Stokes漂移效应的欧拉描述方法,采用欧拉方法推导了波浪场中波浪周期平均的浓度输移扩散方程,其对流项是由波浪速度的波动和物质浓度的波动相互作用而产生,所含的对流速度恰是Stokes漂移速度。由此说明,波浪场中浓度扩散问题的Stokes漂移效应可以自动的由欧拉法来考虑,所得到的Stokes漂移效应与拉格朗日描述的结果是等价的。为了进一步说明这一问题,将粒子追踪法的拉格朗日描述的Stokes漂移速度与欧拉法的结果进行了对比,二者是一致的。研究中也数值求解了线性波浪场中σ坐标下浓度扩散方程,将浓度的Stokes漂移、浓度分布和粒子追踪法的结果进行了对比,以证明欧拉描述和拉格朗日描述两种方法的等价性。研究中也根据实验结果对实际波浪场中Stokes漂移效应所引起的浓度漂移进行了讨论,解释了物理模型实验中的观察到的波浪场中浓度漂移现象。 相似文献
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基于波浪作用下软质海崖的侵蚀机理，考虑波浪水动力和海崖土质条件，建立了一种波浪作用下软质海崖侵蚀量的计算模型，利用室内水槽试验进行验证和参数回归，并使用该模型计算了平潭岛东北部软质海崖的侵蚀状况，与实测数据进行对比分析。研究发现：（1）海崖最大侵蚀量基本发生在静水位线处，随波浪持续作用，最大侵蚀量位置有所上移，当波浪持续作用一定时间时侵蚀基本停止；（2）当波高超过某一临界值时，侵蚀才会发生，而波高非常大的波浪对侵蚀的贡献相对不是很大；（3）平潭岛东北部的两处海崖，每次强台风连续作用8h时的侵蚀距离计算值为0.31m和0.25m。 相似文献
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为研究以流体粒子描述波浪运动，以固体单元描述砾石运动的两相介质大变形运动，在港口、海岸工程科学研究中具有重要意义。本文提出砾石单元法（GEM），介绍了光滑粒子动力学方法（SPH）和GEM的基本原理，阐述了GEM与离散单元法（DEM）的异同之处，说明了采用SPH方法与GEM构建波浪砾石耦合运动数学模型的方法和过程。应用SPH方法建立数值波浪水槽，用GEM模拟波浪作用下堆积砾石的滚落、坍塌变形，构建了SPH方法与GEM耦合数学模型。模拟了水槽造波和波浪生成过程和波浪作用下砾石的滚落、坍塌变形，并与物理模型试验成果进行了比较，结果基本吻合。本文提出的GEM法具有模拟单相堆积砾石运动和堆积砾石与流体粒子耦合多相介质运动的功能，是对DEM法的补充和改善。本文提出的堆积力学球概念和拟序排列求解方法是砾石单元法的重要组成部分。 相似文献
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海底石油管线泄漏可能导致海床内部形成高浓度石油污染。在波浪作用下,海床沉积物易发生再悬浮甚至液化失稳现象,进而导致海床内部石油类污染物通过多种途径向水体再次释放并在土体内部发生迁移,造成更大范围的石油扩散。本研究以总石油烃（Total Petroleum Hydrocarbon,TPH）设为代表性污染物,将污染泥浆以椭球状埋设在沉积物内部,采用波浪水槽试验研究不同强度波浪作用下TPH向上覆水体的释放规律及在沉积物内部的迁移规律。结果表明,在沉积物静置固结阶段前期,TPH随孔隙水由沉积物向上覆水体迁移释放,固结阶段前期TPH向上覆水体的释放量高于后期。在波浪作用未引起沉积物液化阶段,波浪促进石油类污染物向水体释放的作用较弱,由于悬浮泥沙对石油类污染物的吸附作用,水体中石油类污染物的浓度略低于静置固结阶段。在波浪作用引起沉积物液化阶段,随着悬浮泥沙浓度升高,TPH向上覆水体释放量加大;TPH在沉积物内部垂向迁移及平面扩散迁移距离加大,平面迁移距离大于垂向迁移距离,垂向扩散深度与液化深度基本一致,污染土体体积占比约为土体未液化时的3倍。 相似文献
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基于高分四号卫星的黄海绿潮漂移速度提取研究 总被引：3，自引：2，他引：1
静止轨道卫星高分四号（GF-4）具有高时间分辨率（20 s）和高空间分辨率（50 m）的独特优势。为了挖掘GF-4卫星在海洋灾害监测中的应用潜力，本文基于2016年6月25日1天4景的GF-4卫星影像，利用最大相关系数法（MCC），开展了黄海绿潮漂移速度提取研究，分析了海面风场、潮汐等对绿潮漂移的影响。研究发现:（1）MCC方法可高精度自动追踪GF-4影像中绿潮的分钟级（8~9 min）位置变化，绿潮漂移速率和方向的相对偏差分别为11%和5%；当2景GF-4影像的成像时间间隔增大至小时级（如6 h）时，随着绿潮斑块形状的改变，MCC方法绿潮自动追踪的准确性下降。（2）绿潮在1天之中的漂移速率和方向可发生显著变化，当日上午9时黄海绿潮漂移速率均值为（0.36±0.13）m/s，方向以东南向为主，至15时，绿潮漂移速率显著增加至（0.69±0.12）m/s，方向变为东北偏北。（3）绿潮漂移速度与海面风速的相关系数为0.74，绿潮漂移方向为风向偏右；绿潮的向岸、离岸运动与相应时刻的涨、落潮具有较好的对应关系。GF-4卫星数据可为绿潮快速漂移的高精度监测提供数据支撑。 相似文献
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基于势流理论和时域高阶边界元方法,建立了三维完全非线性数值波浪水槽模型.利用源造波法产生入射波浪,应用五阶斯托克斯波理论给定波浪速度;采用混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法追踪流体瞬时水面,将二阶泰勒级数展开法应用于更新下一时间步的波面和速度势;通过加速势的方法准确计算自由水面速度的法向导数和物面速度势的时间导数.对完全非线性波浪进行了模拟,得到了稳定的波形.当波浪非线性较小时,与四阶Runge- Kutta法(RK4)计算结果和五阶斯托克斯波理论解均吻合良好;随着波浪非线性的增大,计算结果误差逐渐增大.通过数值试验分析,在满足精度要求的基础上,本方法计算时间略大于四阶Runge- Kutta法的四分之一,大大减少了计算量. 相似文献
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为了研究真实海域中振荡水柱（OWC）波能转换装置的水动力性能,本文基于势流理论和高阶边界元方法,建立了不规则波与岸基式OWC波能装置相互作用的二维非线性数值模型,不规则波基于JONSWAP谱生成。为了考虑由于水体黏性引起的能量耗散,在气室内水面边界条件中引入人工黏性阻尼。并在大连理工大学波流水槽中开展了物理模型试验,对数值模型的有效性进行了验证。研究发现,在不规则波作用下,OWC波能装置的水动力效率相较于规则波作用下有所降低,特别是在低频波区域效率差值最大。与规则波相比,不规则波浪作用下装置峰值效率对应的频率变大。气室内的相对水面高程随着有效波高的增加而降低,而气室内相对气压则随有效波高的增加而增大。OWC波能装置的水动力效率受有效波高的影响较小,其峰值效率对应的频率不受波浪非线性的影响。本文可以为OWC波能装置的设计提供参考。 相似文献
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波浪作用下渤海湾近岸海域污染物的输移扩散规律 总被引：13，自引：3，他引：10
用物理模型实验和数学模型计算相结合的方法,研究了均匀缓坡岸滩上,规则波及不规则波浪作用下形成的沿岸流及其对岸边排放污染物输移扩散的影响。针对渤海湾的地形和主要波浪方向,研究了渤海湾主要排污口附近单纯波浪以及波浪、潮流共同作用下近岸海域内流动速度分布与相应污染物输移扩散规律。结果表明,在渤海湾近岸海域(一定范围内),污染物输移扩散受到波浪作用的影响,表现为平行岸线方向。波浪作用使得远离污染物排放口的滩涂受污染的影响增大。 相似文献
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The movement of floating pollutants such as oil slicks on the surface of the sea is due to a number different factors, among which wave drift is certainly significant.In principle, it has been known since Stokes' time that a floating particle is subject to the movement caused by the orbital motion of water particles and that an average drift velocity results because the trajectories are not closed. In the past, however, this effect was often either disregarded or simply included with the surface wind induced current. In recent times the difference between the two effects has been conceptually clarified, so that the average wave drift in random one-dimensional seas has been the object of research and the results are now included in most handbooks and models for oil slick forecasting.Due to the chaotic nature of the wave field, however, the drift also causes floating substances to disperse, and this phenomenon is a much more neglected area of research. Recent work by Bovolin et al. [IAHR Congress, 1997] and Sobey and Barker [J. Coast. Res. 13 (1997)] has brought the subject to attention, and computational tools can now be made to quantify the effect and to verify when and how it should be taken into consideration in oil slick accident practise.The work presented in this paper is based on random simulation of the wave induced Eulerian velocity field in a directional sea, by making use of standard offshore wave directional models and on the ensemble averaging of floating particles trajectories in order to compute the spatial dispersion. 相似文献
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In the Boussinesq approximation, we study the nonlinear effects observed in the process of propagation of internal waves in
the presence of turbulence. The space damping factor of the waves is evaluated. The Stokes drift velocity and the Euler velocity
of the mean current induced by waves due to the presence of nonlinearity are determined. It is shown that the principal contribution
to the wave transfer is made by the horizontal velocity of the induced current. The Stokes drift is significant only near
the bottom. The vertical component of the Stokes drift velocity obtained with regard for the turbulent viscosity is nonzero. 相似文献
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Shear Flow Dispersion Under Wave and Current 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The longitudinal dispersion of solute in open channel flow with short period progressive waves is investigated. The waves induce second order drift velocity in the direction of propagation and enhance the mixing process in concurrent direction. The 1-D wave-period-averaged dispersion equation is derived and an expression for the wave-current induced longitudinal dispersion coefficient (WCLDC) is proposed based on Fischer's expression (1979) for dispersion in unidirectional flow. The result shows that the effect of waves on dispersion is mainly due to the cross-sectional variation of the drift velocity. Furthermore, to obtain a more practical expression of the WCLDC, the longitudinal dispersion coefficient due to Seo and Cheong (1998) is modified to incluee the effect of drift velocity. Laboratory experiments have been conducted to verify the proposed expression. The experimental results, together with dimensional analysis, show that the wave effect can be reflected by the ratio between the wave amplitude and wave period. A comparative study between the cases with and without waves demonstrates that the magnitude of the longitudinal dispersion coefficient is increased under the presence of waves. 相似文献
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Spilled oil floats and travels across the water’s surface under the influence of wind, currents, and wave action. Wave-induced Stokes drift is an important physical process that can affect surface water particles but that is currently absent from oil spill analyses. In this study, two methods are applied to determine the velocity of Stokes drift, the first calculates velocity from the wind-related formula based upon a one-dimensional frequency spectrum, while the second determines velocity directly from the wave model that was based on a two-dimensional spectrum. The experimental results of numerous models indicated that: (1) oil simulations that include the influence of Stokes drift are more accurate than that those do not; (2) for medium and long-term simulations longer than two days or more, Stokes drift is a significant factor that should not be ignored, and its magnitude can reach about 2% of the wind speed; (3) the velocity of Stokes drift is related to the wind but is not linear. Therefore, Stokes drift cannot simply be replaced or substituted by simply increasing the wind drift factor, which can cause errors in oil spill projections; (4) the Stokes drift velocity obtained from the two-dimensional wave spectrum makes the oil spill simulation more accurate. 相似文献
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This study investigates experimentally the drift velocity of an elliptical surface film advected by deep-water waves. Thin polyethylene sheets were used to simulate the inextensible surface film. The drift velocities were obtained by recording and analyzing a sequence of images captured using a video camera. The results show that the drift velocity increases with the longitudinal length of the polyethylene sheet until approximately 0.8 times the wavelength. Beyond that, further increment would not result in substantial increase in the drift velocity. The effect due to the normalized transverse width is found to be significant within a particular range. At large wave steepness, the drift velocity appears to be limited by the Stokes drift. A set of best-fit empirical equations based on the sigmoidal function is introduced for oil spill trajectory prediction. 相似文献
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The paper provides a simple analytical method which can be used to give estimates of the Stokes drift based on short-term variation of wave conditions. This is achieved by providing bivariate distributions of wave height and surface Stokes drift as well as wave height and volume Stokes transport for individual random waves within a sea state. The paper presents and discusses statistical aspects of these Stokes drift parameters, as well as examples of results corresponding to typical field conditions. 相似文献
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A. A. Slepyshev 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2016,52(3):301-308
Free internal waves are considered in a Boussinesq approximation in the situation when horizontal eddy viscosity and diffusion in a vertically inhomogeneous flow are taken into account. The dispersion relation and wave damping factor are found in a linear approximation. The Stokes drift velocity is determined in the second order of smallness based on the wave amplitude. It has been indicated that the Stokes drift velocity, transverse with respect to the wave propagation direction, differs from zero if the flow-rate transverse component depends on the vertical coordinate. Vertical momentum fluxes differ from zero and can be comparable with or exceed the corresponding turbulent fluxes if eddy viscosity and diffusion are taken into account. 相似文献
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Jin-Bao Song 《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2009,56(5):659-671
The response of near-surface current profiles to wind and random surface waves are studied based on the approach of Jenkins [1989. The use of a wave prediction model for driving a near surface current model. Dtsch. Hydrogr. Z. 42, 134–149] and Tang et al. [2007. Observation and modeling of surface currents on the Grand Banks: a study of the wave effects on surface currents. J. Geophys. Res. 112, C10025, doi:10.1029/2006JC004028]. Analytic steady solutions are presented for wave-modified Ekman equations resulting from Stokes drift, wind input and wave dissipation for a depth-independent constant eddy viscosity coefficient and one that varies linearly with depth. The parameters involved in the solutions can be determined by the two-dimensional wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves, wind speed, the Coriolis parameter and the densities of air and water, and the solutions reduce to those of Lewis and Belcher [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans. 37, 313–351] when only the effects of Stokes drift are included. As illustrative examples, for a fully developed wind-generated sea with different wind speeds, wave-modified current profiles are calculated and compared with the classical Ekman theory and Lewis and Belcher's [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans 37, 313–351] modification by using the Donelan and Pierson [1987. Radar scattering and equilibrium ranges in wind-generated waves with application to scatterometry. J. Geophys. Res. 92, 4971–5029] wavenumber spectrum, the WAM wave model formulation for wind input energy to waves, and wave energy dissipation converted to currents. Illustrative examples for a fully developed sea and the comparisons between observations and the theoretical predictions demonstrate that the effects of the random surface waves on the classical Ekman current are important, as they change qualitatively the nature of the Ekman layer. But the effects of the wind input and wave dissipation on surface current are small, relative to the impact of the Stokes drift. 相似文献
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基于Jenkins(1989)建立的包含Stokes漂流、风输入和波耗散影响的修正Ekman模型,采用Paskyabi等(2012)使用的推广的Donelan等(1987)中的谱和波耗散函数,并利用Paskyabi等(2012)中修正方法给出的包含高频波的风输入函数,在粘性不依赖于水深及粘性随深度线性变化的条件下,研究了包含高频毛细重力波的随机表面波对Stokes漂流和Song(2009)导出的波浪修正定常Ekman流解的影响。结果表明高频表面波使Stokes漂流在海表面剪切加强,对定常Ekamn流解的影响通常不能忽略,但对Ekman流场的角度偏转影响很小。最后,将考虑高频表面波尾谱影响所估算的定常Ekman流解与已有观测结果以及经典Ekman解进行了比对分析。 相似文献
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Adrian W. K. Law 《Ocean Engineering》1999,26(11):301
In this study, the surface drift of an inextensible film due to a series of progressive gravity waves is investigated both analytically and experimentally. A second approximation of the conformal mapping that transforms the progressive sinusoidal surface to the horizontal axis is applied, thus allowing the analysis to formally accommodate a boundary layer thickness that is much less than the wave height. By computing the stream function to the third order that is an order higher than the past analysis, a pressure component in phase with the wave slope is revealed. The pressure force generated is comparable to the bottom shear on the thin film induced by the moving fluid and thus cannot be ignored. Based on the combined forces on the surface firm, a mean drift is estimated by assuming that the opposing force is due to the viscous drag induced by the drift motion. The experimental results show that the computed drift velocity based on the present study mostly underestimates the experimental observations, but it is in closer agreement than the classical Phillips' 7/4 estimate. 相似文献