首页 | 本学科首页   官方微博 | 高级检索  
相似文献
 共查询到20条相似文献,搜索用时 46 毫秒
1.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(7):573-588
Using shoreline water-level time series collected during 10 dynamically diverse field experiments, an empirical parameterization for extreme runup, defined by the 2% exceedence value, has been developed for use on natural beaches over a wide range of conditions. Runup, the height of discrete water-level maxima, depends on two dynamically different processes; time-averaged wave setup and total swash excursion, each of which is parameterized separately. Setup at the shoreline was best parameterized using a dimensional form of the more common Iribarren-based setup expression that includes foreshore beach slope, offshore wave height, and deep-water wavelength. Significant swash can be decomposed into the incident and infragravity frequency bands. Incident swash is also best parameterized using a dimensional form of the Iribarren-based expression. Infragravity swash is best modeled dimensionally using offshore wave height and wavelength and shows no statistically significant linear dependence on either foreshore or surf-zone slope. On infragravity-dominated dissipative beaches, the magnitudes of both setup and swash, modeling both incident and infragravity frequency components together, are dependent only on offshore wave height and wavelength. Statistics of predicted runup averaged over all sites indicate a − 17 cm bias and an rms error of 38 cm: the mean observed runup elevation for all experiments was 144 cm. On intermediate and reflective beaches with complex foreshore topography, the use of an alongshore-averaged beach slope in practical applications of the runup parameterization may result in a relative runup error equal to 51% of the fractional variability between the measured and the averaged slope.  相似文献   

2.
The spatial distribution of the ghost crab Ocypode cursor was determined for beaches on eastern Boa Vista Island, Cabo Verde Archipelago. The main objectives were to analyse the across-shore distribution by means of burrow counts and to identify preferential zones and spatial segregation. Six beaches were investigated using 20 across-shore beach transects. It was demonstrated that ghost crabs occur throughout the entire intertidal zone, with higher densities in a 9–13 m band above the waterline. There was an exponential relationship between the carapace length of captured crabs and the diameter of their burrows. Mean burrow diameter was correlated with burrow density and increased linearly with distance from the waterline, although small burrows, representing individuals smaller than the median size, occurred across the beach. Burrow diameter and depth were positively correlated, with larger holes indicating larger crabs and deeper burrows. Deeper burrows were more common in the upper intertidal zone. These results are similar to those described for ghost crab populations elsewhere and contribute to an understanding of the ecology of the species in the local context.  相似文献   

3.
Sea surface height anomaly maps of realistic eddy activity were obtained by applying space-time optimum interpolation to altimeter data. Analysis error and rate of reconstructing eddy signals were investigated by taking account of: 1) dependency on orbit configurations of single and multiple altimeters; 2) dependency on space-time scales of realistic, dominant eddies; and 3) effect of space-time scales of eddy propagation. Large-scale sea surface height anomalies are subtracted from altimeter data by applying an along-track filter to allow easy handling of eddy signals. The space-time scales of the first-guess error in the optimum interpolation are statistically evaluated by fitting a space-time anisotropic Gaussian function to space-time-distributed correlation coefficients of sea surface height using the TOPEX data. The results of the optimum interpolation clarify the followings: 1) ERS has a better capability of reconstructing eddy signals than TOPEX. Comparison of maps from multi-altimeter data shows that TOPEX+ERS has a better capability than Jason−1+TOPEX in lower latitudes and vice versa in higher latitudes, though the differences are small. 2) The small space-time scale yields a low reconstruction rate in marginal seas and alongside the equator. The persistent timescale is large, and westward propagation is dominant in the subtropical and subarctic regions, where the reconstruction rates are high. 3) The optimum interpolation, taking account of eddy propagation, provides higher reconstruction rates than that taking no account of the propagation. The effect of propagation on the optimum interpolation is greater when it is applied to single-altimeter data than to multi-altimeter data. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

4.
Measuring run-up on a natural beach   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Field experiments have been performed to evaluate and intercompare two techniques for measuring run-up on natural beaches, resistance wires and films. Simultaneous deployment of wire sensors shows a low error (< 5%) in electronics gain, but a strong sensitivity to the elevation of the wires above the beach face. On a low slope (β ~ 0.02) beach, with incident wind waves of moderate height (H ~ 1 m), differences of only a few cm in the wire elevation cause variance differences as large as 25%, in otherwise identical sensors. Replicate digitizations of the same run-up film show variance differences as large as 20%, with an average deviation from the mean variance of 8%.Use of the film and resistance wire sensors on the same run-up field showed small differences in the mean swash elevation (i.e., set-up), but an 83% difference in swash variance. Much further work is needed to determine the dependence of sensor differences on beach slope, porosity, camera elevation and other factors.  相似文献   

5.
Ten exposed sandy sites covering a range from reflective to dissipative beaches were sampled in south-central Chile to evaluate: (1) spatial changes in species richness, abundance and biomass of the intertidal macroinfauna in response to changes in mean grain size, beach face slope and beach type, and (2) spatial changes in abundance, biomass and body sizes of the most abundant species in response to changes in the physical factors. The number of species, abundance and biomass per beach in general decreased with increasing particle size and beach face slope (steeper beaches) and increased from reflective to dissipative conditions. The best fit for number of species was with Dean's parameter, a measure of beach type, whereas for abundance and biomass the best fits were found with particle size. The isopod Excirolana braziliensis and the anomuran Emerita analoga increased in abundance and biomass towards dissipative conditions, whereas Excirolana hirsuticauda showed the opposite trend in biomass and was significantly larger in beaches with steeper profiles. It is concluded that responses to changes in beach type are more pronounced at community level than within species populations.  相似文献   

6.
Large-amplitude internal solitary waves (or “solitons”) occurring in packets near the shelf break in the Bay of Biscay are well-documented and understood. The presence of similar features has now also been reported in the central Bay, ≈150 km from the nearest shelf break topography. The present paper analyses available remote-sensing synthetic aperture radar (SAR) data from the ERS satellites in this region. By doing so, we are able to provide convincing support for the hypothesis that these waves, instead of having travelled along the thermocline from the shelf break, are instead generated locally in the central Bay by the surfacing of a beam of internal tidal energy originating from the shelf break. This reinforces the results of a previous independent study, while at the same time providing a much more extensive investigation than was then possible. We have also exploited the large swath width (100 km) and high spatial resolution (100 m×100 m) of the SAR to examine for the first time the full surface structure of the internal waves in the central Bay, which are found to have a mean wavelength of 1.35 km, and a mean along-crest “coherence” length of 21.55 km.  相似文献   

7.
8.
周永  张东  邓慧丽  徐南  张慧铭  郝昕  沈永明 《海洋学报》2021,43(12):133-143
水边线法是潮间带地形遥感反演的重要方法。针对常规水边线方法在应用于地形多变的岸外沙洲潮间带数字高程模型(DEM)构建中出现的水边线交叉和缺乏表现潮沟微地形特征的问题,本文提出了一种增强型地形遥感构建方法:首先通过潮位排序,筛选出具有正确高程变化趋势、空间分离的水边线;然后对筛选过程中水边线位置相近的影像组按像元计算改进的归一化差值水体指数并进行均值序列合成,提取出合成海陆边界线,二者共同构建出初始的潮间带DEM;进一步利用低潮期的潮沟边界线和中线生成潮沟DEM,通过潮沟镶嵌处理,最终获得可表达滩面微地形起伏的潮滩DEM。该方法在江苏岸外辐射沙洲中部核心区域的模拟应用表明,对比4条验证剖面的平均结果,高程平均绝对误差为0.43 m,均方根误差为0.54 m,相关系数(r)为0.75,模拟高程与验证高程在剖面起伏形态变化方面具有良好的一致性,同时模拟DEM的空间破碎度小,能够反映更多的细节地形特征。该方法可为利用多源遥感数据构建考虑微地形变化的高精度潮间带地形DEM提供新的思路。  相似文献   

9.
《Marine Geodesy》2013,36(3-4):319-334
In the framework of the TOPEX/Poseidon and Jason-1 CNES-NASA missions, two probative experiments have been conducted at the Corsica absolute calibration site in order to determine the local marine geoid slope under the ascending TOPEX/Poseidon and Jason-1 ground track (No. 85). An improved determination of the geoid slope was needed to better extrapolate the offshore (open-ocean) altimetric data to on-shore tide-gauge locations. This in turn improves the overall precision of the calibration process. The first experiment, in 1998, used GPS buoys. Because the time required to cover the extended area with GPS buoys was thought to be prohibitive, we decided to build a catamaran with two GPS systems onboard. Tracked by a boat at a constant speed, this innovative system permitted us to cover an area of about 20 km long and 5.4 km wide centered on the satellites' ground track. Results from an experiment in 1999 show very good consistency between GPS receivers: filtered sea-surface height differences have a mean bias of ?0.2 cm and a standard deviation of 1.2 cm. No systematic error or distortions have been observed and crossover differences have a mean value of 0.2 cm with a standard deviation of 2.7 cm. Comparisons with tide gauges data show a bias of 1.9 cm with a standard deviation of less than 0.5 cm. However, this bias, attributable in large part to the effect of the catamaran speed on the waterline, does not affect the geoid slope determination which is used in the altimeter calibration process. The GPS-deduced geoid slope was then incorporated in the altimeter calibration process, yielding a significant improvement (from 4.9 to 3.3 cm RMS) in the agreement of altimeter bias determinations from repeated overflight measurements.  相似文献   

10.
Oil pollution of the oceans has been a problem ever since man began to use fossil fuels. Biodegradation by naturally occurring populations of micro-organisms is a major mechanism for the removal of petroleum from the environment. To examine the effects of crude oil pollution on intertidal bacteria, we repeated the same contamination experiments on nine different sub-Antarctic intertidal beaches using specifically built enclosures (PVC pipe, 15 cm in inner diameter and 30 cm in height). Despite the pristine environmental conditions, significant numbers of indigenous hydrocarbon-degrading bacteria were observed in all the studied beaches. Introduction of oil into these previously oil-free environments resulted in several orders of magnitude of increase in hydrocarbon-degrading micro-organisms within a few days in some of the studied sites but has no obvious effects on two others. The physical environment of the bacterial assemblage seems to play a major role in the biodegradation capacities. After 3 months of contamination, both remaining oil concentrations and biodegradation indexes differ strongly between the different stations. Thus, chemical and biological parameters reveal a strong heterogeneity of biodegradation capacities between the different sites.  相似文献   

11.
During the spring-neap period of 17–24 August 2004, turbidity, horizontal and vertical current velocities and echo intensity were measured using OBS-3A and ADP-XR instruments over an intertidal flat within the semi-enclosed Jiaozhou Bay, China, to examine patterns in suspended sediment concentration (SSC) and possible control factors. SSC was found to be lower than 30 mg l−1 in most of the water column and for most of the tidal cycle. This is attributed mainly to the low hydrodynamic energy, in particular weak currents (near-bottom maximum 1- and 8-min-interval velocities were only 26.1 and 14.2 cm s−1, respectively), and limited fine-grained sediment supply by rivers. However, high SSC values ranging from 100 to >1,000 mg l−1 occurred over short periods at the beginning and the end of inundation. This phenomenon is attributed to the shoaling effect of frequent wind-generated waves, as a result of which near-bottom SSC fluctuations display a U-shaped trend during each tidal cycle.  相似文献   

12.
Exposed sandy beaches filter huge volumes of sea water daily as a result of wave and tide action. A regression model is developed which predicts the volume of water filtered daily by a beach as a function of tide range, beach slope and sand particle size. From these parameters estimates are also made of intertidal distance, the degree of expansion of the intertidal above the still water tide range by wave action and the average path length through the sand interstices percolated by filtered sea water. An equation is derived relating the degree of mineralisation of organic matter in the filtered sea water to the distance filtered through the sand and the sand particle size. Employing all this information, a simple model is used to estimate the volumes of sea water filtered and the amounts of inorganic nitrogen regenerated by intertidal sandy beaches over a range of physical conditions. The implications of this nutrient generation for the inshore zone are discussed.  相似文献   

13.
沙宏杰  张东  崔丹丹  吕林  倪鹏 《海洋学报》2019,41(9):170-180
淤泥质海岸冲淤变化大,岸滩剖面形态多样。本文首先根据多时相遥感水边线之间的潮差关系自动判断岸滩剖面形态,进而分别采用不同的函数进行剖面拟合,构建了一种剖面形态自适应的海岸线遥感推算新方法,并在江苏中部淤泥质海岸进行了实证应用。研究表明:下凹形侵蚀岸段、斜坡形平缓岸段和上凸形淤长岸段分别采用三指数衰减函数、线性函数和二阶多项式函数具有良好的剖面拟合效果,利用3条水边线数据拟合所得剖面平均坡度绝对误差分别为0.20‰、–0.17‰和0.13‰,小于剖面实测平均坡度一个数量级。利用5条水边线数据拟合进行海岸线推算时,侵蚀岸段、平缓岸段的海岸线平面位置误差分别为6.5 m和–91.96 m,与平均坡度法相比,误差减小约82.4%。进一步考虑岸滩季节性变化时,使用冬季的水边线数据推算海岸线,对侵蚀岸段和淤长岸段影响不大,但对斜坡形平缓岸段,误差减小约63.65%,因此使用冬季的水边线数据比不区分季节具有更高的海岸线推算精度。  相似文献   

14.
宋慧丽  慕芳红  孙燕  华尔 《海洋学报》2021,43(8):139-151
本研究于2015年12月在濒临渤海的大连夏家河子沙滩和濒临黄海的大连金沙滩采集海洋线虫样品,对两处砂质潮间带海洋线虫群落结构及多样性特征进行了研究。研究结果表明,两处砂质潮间带海洋线虫丰度、优势种、摄食结构及多样性差异显著。夏家河子海洋线虫平均丰度为(592.0±318.9) ind./(10 cm2),金沙滩海洋线虫平均丰度为(54.6±53.8) ind./(10 cm2),显著低于夏家河子。共鉴定海洋线虫43种,共有种13个。夏家河子沙滩海洋线虫优势种为Daptonema sp.1、Daptonema sp.2、Theristus sp.1、Setosabatieria sp.1、Prochromadorella sp.1、Daptonema sp.3、Paracyatholaimus sp.1、Sabatieria breviseta,以非选择性沉积食性线虫为主;金沙滩海洋线虫优势种为Oncholaimus sp.1、Chromadorita sp.1、Theristus sp.2, Neochromadora sp.1、Enoplus sp.1、Prochromadorella sp.1,以杂食性或捕食性线虫为主。两处砂质潮间带海洋线虫种数S、丰富度指数d和香农?威纳多样性指数H'存在极显著的差异,其值均表现为夏家河子显著高于金沙滩。相似性分析结果显示,两处沙滩的海洋线虫群落结构存在显著差异。间隙水pH、沉积物有机质含量及中值粒径是引起海洋线虫群落结构及多样性差异的主要因子,其中,沉积物中值粒径对线虫群落特征的影响最为突出。就两处沙滩潮区差异而言,受沉积物粒径特征及pH的影响,夏家河子海洋线虫群落特征在不同潮区之间也存在差异,其低潮带海洋线虫多样性高于高、中潮带,杂食者和捕食者丰度高,反映其海洋线虫群落结构较复杂。金沙滩不同潮区的环境因子无显著差异,线虫群落结构及多样性潮区差异不显著,较为均一。此外,水动力对海洋线虫群落结构沙滩差异和潮区差异也产生重要影响。一方面,水动力通过影响不同粒径沉积物的沉积影响海洋线虫群落特征;另一方面,水动力可影响线虫的分散性,进而对其潮区分布产生影响。  相似文献   

15.
In the framework of the TOPEX/Poseidon and Jason-1 CNES-NASA missions, two probative experiments have been conducted at the Corsica absolute calibration site in order to determine the local marine geoid slope under the ascending TOPEX/Poseidon and Jason-1 ground track (No. 85). An improved determination of the geoid slope was needed to better extrapolate the offshore (open-ocean) altimetric data to on-shore tide-gauge locations. This in turn improves the overall precision of the calibration process. The first experiment, in 1998, used GPS buoys. Because the time required to cover the extended area with GPS buoys was thought to be prohibitive, we decided to build a catamaran with two GPS systems onboard. Tracked by a boat at a constant speed, this innovative system permitted us to cover an area of about 20 km long and 5.4 km wide centered on the satellites' ground track. Results from an experiment in 1999 show very good consistency between GPS receivers: filtered sea-surface height differences have a mean bias of -0.2 cm and a standard deviation of 1.2 cm. No systematic error or distortions have been observed and crossover differences have a mean value of 0.2 cm with a standard deviation of 2.7 cm. Comparisons with tide gauges data show a bias of 1.9 cm with a standard deviation of less than 0.5 cm. However, this bias, attributable in large part to the effect of the catamaran speed on the waterline, does not affect the geoid slope determination which is used in the altimeter calibration process. The GPS-deduced geoid slope was then incorporated in the altimeter calibration process, yielding a significant improvement (from 4.9 to 3.3 cm RMS) in the agreement of altimeter bias determinations from repeated overflight measurements.  相似文献   

16.
This study describes the macrofauna of the three beaches situated in central Gulf of Gabès (Tunisia): Ouderef, Gabès and Zarrat. The Gulf of Gabès has the largest tides in the Mediterranean and the beaches showed a wide intertidal zone. The beaches were sampled once during the spring low tides of June 2005. A transect was extended at each beach, from above the drift line to below the swash line at five sampled levels; at each level six 0.05 m2 replicates were taken to a depth of 30 cm and sieved through a 1-mm mesh, and the organisms collected and preserved. The three beaches showed a different physical environment. Sediment type was medium sand at the steeper Ouderef beach, fine sands at Gàbes beach, and very fine sands at the flatter Zarrat beach. The total number of species collected was 31: 12 crustaceans, 10 polychaetes, four molluscs and five insects. The supralittoral and mediolittoral zones were very different. The supralittoral zone was dominated by Talitrus saltator and insects. The most abundant mediolittoral species were the amphipod crustacean Bathyporeia guilliamsoniana at Ouderef beach (23069 ind.m−1), the surf clam Donax trunculus at Gabès beach (60711 ind.m−1) and the spionid polychaete Scolelepis mesnili at Zarrat beach (18345.6 ind.m−1).  相似文献   

17.
Accuracies of the benthic acoustic stress sensor (BASS) and the proposed modular acoustic velocity sensor (MAVS) are evaluated. A simple model of the hydrodynamic sources of error for acoustic current meters is presented and compared with the measured performance of BASS in a tow-tank and in field deployments. The sources of error addressed include those due to ideal flow around the sensor cage, wake effects from the support structure and transducers, vortex shedding from the cage, and electronic zero-point offsets. Electronic error dominates at velocities less than 5-10 cm/s, while flow disturbance dominates at higher speeds  相似文献   

18.
The bathymetric LiDAR system is an airborne laser that detects sea bottom at high vertical and horizontal resolutions in shallow coastal waters. This study assesses the capabilities of the airborne bathymetric LiDAR sensor (Hawk Eye system) for coastal habitat mapping in the Oka estuary (within the Biosphere Reserve of Urdaibai, SE Bay of Biscay, northern Spain), where water conditions are moderately turbid. Three specific objectives were addressed: 1) to assess the data quality of the Hawk Eye LiDAR, both for terrestrial and subtidal zones, in terms of height measurement density, coverage, and vertical accuracy; 2) to compare bathymetric LiDAR with a ship-borne multibeam echosounder (MBES) for different bottom types and depth ranges; and 3) to test the discrimination potential of LiDAR height and reflectance information, together with multi-spectral imagery (three visible and near infrared bands), for the classification of 22 salt marsh and rocky shore habitats, covering supralittoral, intertidal and subtidal zones. The bathymetric LiDAR Hawk Eye data enabled the generation of a digital elevation model (DEM) of the Oka estuary, at 2 m of horizontal spatial resolution in the terrestrial zone (with a vertical accuracy of 0.15 m) and at 4 m within the subtidal, extending a water depth of 21 m. Data gaps occurred in 14.4% of the area surveyed with the LiDAR (13.69 km2). Comparison of the LiDAR system and the MBES showed no significant mean difference in depth. However, the Root Mean Square error of the former was high (0.84 m), especially concentrated upon rocky (0.55–1.77 m) rather than in sediment bottoms (0.38–0.62 m). The potential of LiDAR topographic variables and reflectance alone for discriminating 15 intertidal and submerged habitats was low (with overall classification accuracy between 52.4 and 65.4%). In particular, reflectance retrieved for this case study has been found to be not particularly useful for classification purposes. The combination of the LiDAR-based DEM and derived topographical features with the near infrared and visible bands has permitted the mapping of 22 supralittoral, intertidal and subtidal habitats of the Oka estuary, with high overall classification accuracies of between 84.5% and 92.1%, using the maximum likelihood algorithm. The airborne bathymetric Hawk Eye LiDAR, although somewhat limited by water turbidity and wave breaking, provides unique height information obscured from topographic LiDAR and acoustic systems, together with an improvement of the habitat mapping reliability in the complex and dynamic coastal fringe.  相似文献   

19.
Turbot (Psetta maxima Linnaeus) is a high value commercially exploited marine flatfish which occurs in European waters, from the Northeast Atlantic to the Arctic Circle, the Baltic and Mediterranean Sea. In Ireland, turbot are the most valuable commercial non-quota species. Very little is known about their population dynamics in the wild, in particular during the sandy beach nursery phase of the life history. In 2000, a survey was established to assess flatfish species on nursery grounds on the west coast of Ireland. Eleven sandy beaches were assessed for 0+ turbot by beach seining, over an eight year period (2000–2007) during the months of August and September. The objective of the study was to estimate juvenile turbot abundance and size structure to determine if any spatial and annual trends existed. Large scale variability in the recruitment of fish to nursery grounds may be indicative of fluctuations in the adult stock. Turbot were found to recruit to five beaches consistently over the eight year period. Temporal and spatial variability in the relative abundance and length of turbot was discerned, with no apparent overall trend. However, certain nursery grounds were shown in most of the years examined to support higher abundances of turbot in comparison to other areas over the eight year period. Turbot abundances on nursery grounds were significantly correlated with mean spring sea temperatures during the pelagic stage. The condition of turbot did not significantly differ on an annual or spatial scale. Mean densities of 0+ turbot along the Irish coast were found to be similar and at times higher than other areas in Europe, ranging from 0.1 (± 0.3) individuals 1000 m− 2 to 18.5 (± 6.9) individuals 1000 m− 2. Mean turbot total length on beaches ranged from 3.8 cm (± 0.6) to 6.6 cm (± 4.3). The observed spatial and temporal variability in abundance and length highlights the need for long-term studies when assessing juvenile flatfish populations. Results from the present study have provided much needed baseline data on wild juvenile turbot populations which is severely lacking for this species both on an Irish and on a European scale.  相似文献   

20.
The objective of this study was to investigate that the effects of different hydrodynamic conditions on sediment resuspension on a tidal mudflat in the Yellow River Estuary. A field experiment was conducted on an intertidal flat of the Yellow River Delta, China. The sediment resuspension concentrations and hydrodynamic conditions were obtained in the field from September 2–7, 2013. The resuspended sediment concentrations induced by wave loading were compared with those induced by coupled wave–current actions in Yellow River Delta. The results were as follows: (1) when the wave height was higher than 10?cm and the shear stress induced by the waves was greater than the critical stress of the seabed sediments, the surface seabed was eroded and sediment was resuspended. In addition, 60% of the significant wave heights were larger than 10?cm on the intertidal flat of the Yellow River Delta. (2) The contribution of waves to sediment resuspension was greater than 30% when the significant wave height is higher than 10?cm, and the average contribution of waves to sediment resuspension was 51%. The mechanism of wave-induced sediment resuspension and processes of sediment resuspension were described in this paper.  相似文献   

设为首页 | 免责声明 | 关于勤云 | 加入收藏

Copyright©北京勤云科技发展有限公司  京ICP备09084417号