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1.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(7):617-631
A calibrated morphodynamic model of the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands [Grunnet, N.M., Walstra, D.J.R., Ruessink, B.G., 2004. Process-based modelling of a shoreface nourishment. Coastal Eng. 51/7, 581–607], comprising the island and its two adjacent tidal inlet systems, is applied to identify the relative contribution of tides, wind and waves to the cross-shore and alongshore redistribution of a 2 Mm3 nourishment supplied to the nearshore zone along the island. Several model simulations with varying combinations of horizontal and vertical tide, wind and wave forcing were designed to investigate the effect of each individual forcing on a large spatio-temporal scale (order of kilometres and months, respectively). As expected, stirring and transport by waves and wave-induced currents are predicted to be by far the dominant contributor to the net sediment transport along the coast of Terschelling. Because of the strong obliquity of the winds and the relatively small tidal currents in front of the island (≈ 0.5 m/s), alongshore wind-driven currents increase sediment transport rates and horizontal tides virtually have no net transport capacity. This motivated a local model of the study area along the closed coast of Terschelling, not including tidal inlets and further simplifying tidal boundary definitions by omitting the horizontal tides: morphodynamic simulations of the local model show virtually identical results as the larger model predictions. The reduction in complexity in setting up a local model instead of a regional model coupled with the corresponding significant reduction in computational time points to an increasing applicability of complex process-based models. 相似文献
2.
Internal tidal currents are the likely cause of erosional features such as current ripples, sand waves, and truncated bedding horizons on the sediment cap of Horizon Guyot. Current meter data obtained over a 9 month period in 1983–1984 at about 213 m above the guyot show that the tidal currents are anomalously strong for mid-oceanic depths, probably the result of topographically induced generation of internal tidal waves. An analysis of the initiation of motion of the foraminiferal sand by the internal tidal currents indicates that these currents, particularly during the months of March–May, are likely to transport the surficial sediment and generate the observed bedforms. 相似文献
3.
Tide-driven bed load transport is an important portion of the net annual sediment transport rate in many shoreface and shelf environments. However, bed load transport under waves cannot be measured in the field and bed load transport by currents without waves is barely measurable, even in spring tidal conditions. There is, consequently, a strong lack of field data and validated models. The present field site was on the shoreface and inner shelf at 2 to 8.5 km offshore the central Dutch coast (far outside the surfzone), where tidal currents flow parallel to the coast. Bed load transports were carefully measured with a calibrated sampler in spring tidal conditions without waves at a water depth of 13–18 m with fine and medium sands. The near-bed flow was measured over nearly a year and used for integration to annual transport rates. An empirical bed load model was derived, which predicts bed load transports that are a factor of > 5 smaller than predicted by existing models. However, they agree with laboratory data of sand and gravel transport in currents near incipient motion. The damped transport rates may have been caused by cohesion of sediment or turbulence damping due to mud or biological activity. The annual bed load transport rate was calculated using a probability density function (pdf) derived from the near-bed current and orbital velocity data which represented the current and wave climate well when compared to 30 years of data from a nearby wave station. The effect of wave stirring was included in the transport calculations. The net bed load transport rate is a few m2/year. This is much less than predicted in an earlier model study, which is partly due to different bed load models but also due to the difference in velocity pdf. The annual transport rate is very sensitive to the probability of the largest current velocities. 相似文献
4.
Field measurements were conducted in Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, a megatidal embayment (spring tidal range of 15 m), in order to monitor, over the course of a tidal cycle, sediment transport variability due to waves and tides on the upper part of a tidal flat characterised by shallow water depths. Sensors used to measure currents, water depth and turbidity were installed just above the bed (0.04 m). Two experiments were conducted under contrasting hydrodynamic conditions. The results highlight wave activity over the tidal flat even though observed wind waves were largely dissipated due to the very shallow water depths. Very high suspended sediment concentrations (up to 6 kg/m3) were recorded in the presence of wave activity at the beginning of the local flood, when significant sediment transport occurred, up to 7 times as much as under conditions of no wave activity. This influence may be attributed to the direct action of waves on bed sediments, to wave-induced liquefaction, and to the erosive action of waves on tidal channel banks. The sediment composition, comprising a clay fraction of 2-5%, may also enhance sediment transport by reducing critical shear stress through the sand lubrication effect. The results also show that antecedent meteorological conditions play an important role in suspended sediment transport on the tidal flat. Total sediment flux directions show a net transport towards the inner part of the bay that contributes to deposition over the adjacent salt marshes, and this tendency also prevails during strong wave conditions. Such sediment transport is characterised by significant variability over the course of the tidal cycle. During fair and moderate weather conditions, 83% and 71% of the total flux was observed, respectively, over only 11% and 28% of the duration of the local tidal cycle and with water depths between 0.04 and 0.3 m. These results suggest that in order to improve our understanding of sediment budgets in this type of coastal environment, it is essential to record data just at the beginning and at the end of tidal submergence close to the bed. 相似文献
5.
利用2014–2017年在台湾海峡西部采集的多波束、单道地震剖面、沉积物粒度样品及海流监测资料,在厦门湾近岸陆架区识别出一系列海底沙波,并对沙波的形态特征、分布规律和沉积物组成特征进行分析,探讨水动力条件及其对沙波发育的影响。结果表明沙波发育区水深一般为10~60 m,地形较平缓开阔,坡度一般为0°~1°;平面上沙波区呈一系列NW-SE向条带状坡地,波脊呈线性或新月形,波脊轴线为SW-NE方向,沙波波长为120~800 m,波高2~12 m,沙波指数较大(>30)。地震剖面显示,波形形态主要分为三类:近对称性沙波、非对称性沙波及叠合沙波。近对称性沙纹的波高较大,沙波指数小;非对称性沙波的波长较长,沙波指数大;稳定沙波经后期水流“改造、激活”形成叠合沙波。砂含量较高,沉积物类型以砂、粉砂质砂及砂质粉砂为主,多为细砂—中砂。厦门湾口外的近岸陆架区水动力较强,流系复杂,总体受浙闽沿岸流、南海表层流和黑潮分支的影响。本区为不正规半日潮,流速为0.3~0.7 m/s,落潮流以S向为主,涨潮流向以NNE向为主,潮流作用对沙波的发育和改造起重要影响。 相似文献
6.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(2):159-175
The Frisian Inlet is one of the tidal basins of the Dutch Wadden Sea. In 1969, its basin area was reduced by 30%. As documented by bathymetric surveys, this has led to an import of sediment of 30×106 m3 over the first 18 years. The study presented in this paper seeks to establish the mechanisms responsible for the passage of the sediment through the throat cross-section of the inlet channel. Emphasis is on a 14-day period of relative calm when sediment transport can be attributed solely to tidal currents. Use is made of continuous measurements of velocity, sand and silt concentration. The measurement station was located on one side of the throat cross-section in a water depth of approximately 6 m. For both the sand and silt fraction of the sediment, suspended load transport is the dominant transport mode. It is shown that for sand, concentration variations and net transport are determined by the local (in the throat section) velocity. Especially the residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry play an important role in the net sand flux. For silt, except for transport associated with locally generated vertical mixing, the net transport is largely determined by sedimentation–erosion processes in the basin and the silt concentration in the North Sea. Comparison with measurements in a station located in the middle of the throat section shows considerable difference in residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry. As a result, the sediment fluxes also differ. Accurately determining the net sediment flux in the throat section would require a dense net of measurement stations. 相似文献
7.
A numerical study of transport dynamics and seasonal variability of the Yellow River sediment in the Bohai and Yellow seas 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
A sediment numerical model was embedded into a wave-tide-circulation coupled model to simulate the transport processes of the Yellow River-derived sediment considering the wave-induced vertical mixing (Bv) and the wave-current coupled bottom shear stress (BSS). Numerical results show that the main stream of the Yellow River-derived sediment moves first eastward off the northern Shandong Peninsula and then southward into the South Yellow Sea all year round. In spring, the sediment moves northeastward in the Bohai Sea. In summer, there is a northeastward branch of sediment in the Bohai Sea off the west coast of the Liaodong Peninsula, while the main part goes eastward to the Yellow Sea. The Yellow River-derived sediment transport from the Bohai Sea to the North Yellow Sea across the Bohai Strait is mainly limited to the top 10 m, and with a maximum centered at 37.9°N in summer. The transport from the North Yellow Sea to the South Yellow Sea across the transect of 37°N is mainly in the 0–30 m layer with a maximum around 123.7°E in autumn. The simulated Yellow River-discharged sediment deposits along the Shandong Peninsula and between 20 and 30 m isobaths in the Yellow Sea, which is consistent with observation. If surface waves are not considered in the model, the sediment deposits westward to the nearshore area in the South Yellow Sea. The sediment would deposit further southward in the numerical experiment results without wind influence. In the numerical experiment of no tide, there is hardly any sediment deposited on the Yellow Sea floor, while in the Bohai Sea most of the sediment is transported southward and northwestward around the river mouth instead of eastward as in the Control Run, indicating the tides play a key role in forming the deposition pattern. 相似文献
8.
Depth of activation on a mixed sediment beach 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The relationship between wave height and depth of sediment activation is evaluated on an estuarine beach to determine whether activation depth is less in pebbles than sand. Rods with washers were used to monitor three excavated beach plots filled with (1) pebbles with mean grain size of 11.5 mm; (2) sand and granules; and (3) sand, granules and pebbles. Plots were monitored for 26 events over 27 days. Significant wave heights ranged from 0.18 to 0.40 m and activation depths from 0.02 to 0.12 m. Activation depths in the pebble plot were less than the other two plots when waves reworked sediment not activated during previous tidal cycles. Proportionality coefficients for activation depth to wave height, when net change was < 0.02 m, were 0.24 in the pebble plot and 0.30–0.31 in the other plots when experimental fill sediments remained and 0.22 to 0.23 in all three plots over the entire monitoring period, which included activation of newly deposited native sediment. Results suggest that for similar wave heights, activation depths in pebbles is lower than in sand, granules and pebbles or sand and granules, but once waves have reworked the sediment there is little difference in activation depths. 相似文献
9.
潮流场对渤、黄、东海陆架底质分布的控制作用 总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10
朱玉荣 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》2001,21(2):7-13
运用二维潮流数学模型，模拟了渤、黄、东海陆架的M2潮汐、潮流。结果表明，渤、黄、东海陆架的潮流有强弱之分以及往复流和旋转汉之别。在此基础上，计算了8种粒径沙的湖平均悬移输沙率、潮平均推移输沙以及相应的输沙率散度。根据输沙率散度的正负，划分了海底冲刷区与淤积区。根据不同粒径泥沙输沙率散度的相对大小，确定出海底的主要底质类型为砂质沉积、粉砂质泥沉积和以粉砂为主的混合沉积。计算结果表明，海底3种主要底负类型的分布格局与海底的冲淤格局以及与输沙率矢量的发散和聚合状况基本一致。在渤、黄、东海陆架，沙脊主要在强往复流区形成，沙席主要在强或较强的旋转流区形成，泥质沉积主要在弱潮流区形成。砂质沉积、泥质沉积以及混合沉积这3种主要底质类型并非孤立存在，而是受渤、黄、东海陆架潮流场控制而形成的一个完整的潮流沉积体系。渤、黄、东海陆架的砂质沉积与泥质沉积并非残留沉积，而是潮流沉积。在没有冷涡的情况下，黄、东海陆架的典型泥质沉积在弱潮流环境中同样可以形成，因此，认为冷涡并非黄、东海陆架典型泥质沉积形成的必要条件。 相似文献
10.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(2):115-142
The Arcachon Lagoon on the French Atlantic coast is a triangular shaped lagoon of 20 km on a side connected to the ocean by a 3-km wide inlet between the mainland and an elongated sand spit. This tidal inlet exhibits a particularly active morphology due to locally strong tidal currents and rough wave conditions. During the past 300 years, minimum and maximum spatial extents of the Cap Ferret sand spit have varied by 8 km while one or two channels have alternately allowed circulation between the lagoon and the ocean. These impressive morphological changes have never prevented regular flushing of the lagoon, eventhough the spit came as close as 300 m from the coast during the 18th century. According to Bruun's concept of tidal inlet stability [Theory and Engineering (1978), 510 pp.], the balance between longshore littoral transport and the tidal prism ensures the perpetuity of the inlet.Process modeling was believed to give better insight into the respective roles of tides and waves in driving the long-term morphological changes of the inlet. A two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was therefore developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. The use of process models at a scale of decades requires a schematization of the input conditions. We defined representative mean annual wave and tide conditions with respect to sediment transport, i.e. conditions that induce the same annual transport as measured in the field. Driven by these representative conditions, simulations run from the 1993 bathymetry show that the tide is responsible for the opening of a new channel at the extremity of the sand spit (where tidal currents are the strongest), while waves induce a littoral transport responsible for the longshore drift of sand bodies across the inlet. One particular simulation consisted in running the model from a hypothetical initial topography where the channels are filled with sand and the entire inlet is set to a constant depth (3 m). The results show the reproduction of a channel and bar system comparable to historical observations, which supports the idea that the lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades. 相似文献
11.
Owing to lack of observational data and accurate definition,it is difficult to distinguish the Kuroshio intrusion water from the Pacific Ocean into the South China Sea(SCS).By using a passive tracer to identify the Kuroshio water based on an observation-validated three-dimensional numerical model MITgcm,the spatio-temporal variation of the Kuroshio intrusion water into the SCS has been investigated.Our result shows the Kuroshio intrusion is of distinct seasonal variation in both horizontal and vertical directions.In winter,the intruding Kuroshio water reaches the farthest,almost occupying the area from 18°N to 23°N and 114°E to 121°E,with a small branch flowing towards the Taiwan Strait.The intrusion region of the Kuroshio water decreases with depth gradually.However,in summer,the Kuroshio water is confined to the east of 118°E without any branch reaching the Taiwan Strait;meanwhile the intrusion region of the Kuroshio water increases from the surface to the depth about 205 m,then it decreases with depth.The estimated annual mean of Kuroshio Intrusion Transport(KIT) via the Luzon Strait is westward to the SCS in an amount of –3.86×106 m3/s,which is larger than the annual mean of Luzon Strait Transport(LST) of –3.15×106 m3/s.The KIT above 250 m accounts for 60%–80% of the LST throughout the entire water column.By analyzing interannual variation of the Kuroshio intrusion from the year 2003 to 2012,we find that the Kuroshio branch flowing into the Taiwan Strait is the weaker in winter of La Ni?a years than those in El Ni?o and normal years,which may be attributed to the wind stress curl off the southeast China then.Furthermore,the KIT correlates the Ni?o 3.4 index from 2003 to 2012 with a correlation coefficient of 0.41,which is lower than that of the LST with the Ni?o 3.4 index,i.e.,0.78. 相似文献
12.
为研究内孤立波与沙波的相互作用,本文对基于OpenFOAM的SedWaveFoam求解器进行改进,建立了内孤立波-泥沙运动欧拉两相流模型。在利用试验资料对模型进行验证的基础上,在南海北部典型代表性条件下,模拟分析了500 m水深位置沙波床面上内孤立波作用下的水动力变化和泥沙运动。结果表明,内孤立波逐渐离开沙波时,海底沙波背流面处出现与内孤立波背景流速反向的流速,在内孤立波导致的流场作用下,沙波床面上的泥沙悬起并运动到床面以上的水体中。振幅100 m的内孤立波可以导致床面以上14 m高的位置处出现约0.07 kg/m3的悬沙浓度。 相似文献
13.
南黄海西侧的江苏海岸近岸区域,素以地形复杂、潮流强劲、悬沙输运剧烈著称,但是较长期的同步潮位和潮流观测数据仍然缺乏,尤其是在近岸(20 km)浅水(20 m)区域。2014年1月在大丰港附近开展了连续潮位和潮流观测,获得的数据揭示了一系列特征。此地潮汐潮流为正规半日潮,浅水分潮显著。平均潮差为3.05 m,最显著的两个分潮为M2和S2分潮,振幅分别为1.45 m和0.52 m。潮流最显著的半日分潮M2分潮和最显著的浅水分潮M4分潮在沿岸方向上振幅分别为0.84m/s和0.12m/s,在跨岸方向上振幅分别为0.24 m/s和0.01 m/s,沿岸方向占绝对优势。潮波的沿岸传播介于前进波和驻波之间,驻波的特征稍强。M2分潮潮流椭圆最大流(长轴)方向为南偏东7.4°。存在冬季沿岸向北的余流,垂向平均值的大小为2.2 cm/s。以上潮汐潮流特征为该区域海洋物质输运研究提供了基础资料。 相似文献
14.
海南岛西部岸外沙波的高分辨率形态特征 总被引：12，自引：1，他引：12
利用SIMRAD-EM3000多波束探测系统和DGPS定位系统,对海南岛东方岸外的沙波沙脊区进行了高精度探测,分析结果表明:从海岸到陆架底形具有明显的分带性,依次出现弱侵蚀底形段、沙波沙脊底形段和平坦底形段。沙波仅发育于沙波沙脊段,介于水深20~50 m之间,沙波形态有二维与三维两种,沙波波高多为0.7~2.5 m,波长20~70 m,沙波指数(L/H)为20~60,对称指数为1~3;沙波沙脊区沉积物的搬运方向有明显的规律性,在沙脊的西侧,沉积物主要向北搬运;在沙脊的东侧,沉积物主要向南搬运;沙波的形成和发育主要受潮流场控制,热带风暴对其有改造作用。 相似文献
15.
We observed strong internal tidal waves in the Kara Gates Strait. Internal tides are superimposed over a system of mean currents from the Barents to the Kara Sea. Field studies of internal tides in the Kara Gates were performed in 1997, 2007, and 2015. In 2015, we analyzed data from towed CTD measurements, numerical model calculations, and satellite images in the region. An internal tidal wave with a period of 12.4 h is generated due to the interaction between the currents of the barotropic tide and the bottom relief on the slopes of a ridge that crosses the strait from Novaya Zemlya to the continent. The depths of the ridge crest are 30–40 m. A constant current of relatively warm water flows from the Barents to the Kara Sea. An internal wave propagates in both directions from the ridge. In the Barents Sea, internal waves are intensified by the current from the Barents to the Kara Sea. Internal bores followed by a packet of short-period internal waves are found in both directions from the strait. Satellite images show that short-period internal waves are generated after the internal bore. A hydraulic jump was found on the eastern side of the strait. Numerical modeling agrees with the experimental results. 相似文献
16.
南黄海辐射沙洲附近海域悬浮体的研究 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
对2003年春季(3—4月)和秋季(9月)南黄海辐射沙洲附近海域的悬浮体样品进行了空间分布特征、有机无机组成、粒度特征及其季节变化分析。结果表明:(1)2003年春季研究区内悬浮体浓度要普遍高于秋季的悬浮体浓度。悬浮体浓度最高值区位于长江口-老黄河口之间的近岸区。陆源物质为主的无机组分是悬浮体的主体成分,特别是在近岸浅水区和接近海底的底层水中尤为突出;(2)研究区海水中的悬浮体主要来源于辐射沙脊区(老黄河-长江复合三角洲)沉积物再悬浮;(3)悬浮体分布是风浪、潮流及沿岸流等多种因素综合作用的结果,而风浪和潮流是影响本区悬浮体分布的主要因素,巨大的风浪和强大的潮流造成辐射沙洲海底的沉积物再悬浮、搬运和再沉积,并在苏北沿岸流的作用下向沙洲外缘输运。 相似文献
17.
渤海波浪和潮汐风暴潮相互作用对波浪影响的数值研究 总被引：11，自引：2，他引：11
基于依赖波浪成长状态波令的表面风应力，提出了一个波浪和风暴潮潮汐运动相互作用的联合数值模式，实现了第三代波浪模式和三维风暴潮潮汐模式联合作用的数值研究，并结合渤海典型天气个例的研究，给出了渤海波浪和风暴潮潮汐相互作用对波浪影响的机制和大小量级的定量估计。研究表明，对不同天气过程，波浪和风暴潮潮汐相互作用对波浪影响的性质和大小不同；对强寒潮过程，对波浪影响主要由风暴潮所支配波高调制可达1m，在黄河口区一般达0．5m；对弱天气过程，对波浪影响主要由潮所控制，波高调制约在0．2m，联合作用模式给出的结果与实测更吻合。 相似文献
18.
古长江河口湾充填潮流作用机制的初步探讨 总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10
长江三角洲的发育是以古长江河日湾的充填来实现的.研究潮汐、潮流在古长江河口湾充填中所起的作用,可深入了解长江三角洲的形成发育过程.建立了渤海、黄海、东海的二维潮流数学模型,数值模拟了冰后期最大海侵,即现今长江三角洲地区为巨大河口湾时的M2潮汐、潮流.在此基础上,计算了古长江河口湾及其周围海域8种粒径泥沙的潮平均悬移与推移输沙率,并根据输沙率散度的正负,划分了海底冲刷区与淤积区.根据计算结果得出,冰后期最大海侵时,存在大致以古长江河口湾湾口中点为腹点、波腹线向海凸起的独特驻潮波波腹区.在其控制下,外海潮流大致以古长江河口湾湾口中点为顶点作辐聚、辐散运动.在古潮流场作用下,经历每一个潮周期后,古长江河口湾周围海域的泥沙均向河口湾内净输运,并在河口湾内淤积.古长江河口湾的充填是在长江带来大量泥沙,外海的潮汐、潮流又有利于泥沙向河口湾内净输运,且在河口湾内沉积的情况下实现的.外海的潮汐、潮流为古长江河口湾的充填、长江三角洲的发育提供了必要而又有利的水动力环境. 相似文献
19.
近年来，由于河口、海岸地区的泥沙运动与港口、航道以及海岸的冲淤有着直接的关系，对一些海岸建筑物比如防波堤、护岸工程等造成一定的威胁，甚至于使其完全丧失使用价值，造成巨大的损失。为此人们越来越重视对这一问题的研究。本文为估计岸滩的冲淤变化和了解岸滩的演变规律，对影响泥沙运动的海洋动力要素进行了研究。
为研究悬沙的输移规律，建立了一个由两部分组成的二维悬沙模型系统：①水动力模式。建立了一个综合多因素的二维波浪、潮汐和风暴潮耦合模式，以此来研究波、潮、风暴潮间的相互作用，并为泥沙计算提供流速场。②二维悬沙模式。运用得出的流场来研究悬沙的输移扩散规律。其中所采用的波浪模式是将流对波浪场的影响同时加以考虑的耦合数学模型，将流速加入波能方程，并考虑由于水面的升降而产生的不定常水深对波浪场的影响，再将波浪场对流场的影响通过辐射应力、考虑波浪影响的底应力以及依赖波龄的表面风应力耦合到流场中，从而建立了一个综合多种因素的波浪、潮汐、风暴潮联合作用下的二维悬沙模型系统。并在此模型系统的基础上，对黄河口泥沙的输移问题作了探讨，为今后的防堤、护岸工程提供依据。 相似文献
20.
Estimates have been made of the suspended sand transport at two sites on the Middelkerke Bank, in the southern North Sea, from suspended sand profiles and current meter measurements over a period of approximately 40 days. Sand resuspension was mainly due to waves while transport was dominated by a few hours when large waves coincided with peak flood currents. Soulsby's relationships for the stress under combined currents and waves were found to be poor predictors for the observed near-bed concentrations; the mean stress,
, predicting 45% of the variance while the maximum stress,
, predicted just 15%, and overestimate the effects of the waves. When the influence of the stress due to the waves is reduced, the variance explained increases to 67%. The sand transport rate on the steep slope of the bank was 10 times that of the southern end, and was up-slope at 25° to the bank axis, in the direction of the major axis of the tidal ellipse. The transport on the steep slope was mainly in the size range 100–140 μm which did not occur in any significant proportion in samples of the sea bed at that site but was advected from deeper water to the southeast. Excluding this finer component the transport rates of coarser sand (>200 μm) at the two sites were similar over the 40-day period. The up-slope transport during storms suggests that waves play an important part in the bank maintenance and are not simply the mechanism which prevents the continual growth of the sand bank due to asymmetrical transport by the tidal currents alone. The transport rates are consistent with a time-scale of 102–103 years for the formation of the Middelkerke Bank. 相似文献