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1.
《Coastal Engineering》1998,35(3):185-209
Two depth inversion algorithms (DIA) applicable to coastal waters are developed, calibrated, and validated based on results of computations of periodic waves shoaling over mild slopes, in a two-dimensional numerical wave tank based on fully nonlinear potential flow (FNPF) theory. In actual field situations, these algorithms would be used to predict the cross-shore depth variation h based on sets of values of wave celerity c and length L, and either wave height H or left–right asymmetry s2/s1, simultaneously measured at a number of locations in the direction of wave propagation, e.g., using video or radar remote sensing techniques. In these DIAs, an empirical relationship, calibrated for a series of computations in the numerical wave tank, is used to express c as a function of relative depth koh and deep water steepness koHo. To carry out depth inversion, wave period is first predicted as the mean of observed L/c values, and Ho is then predicted, either based on observed H or s2/s1 values. The celerity relationship is finally inverted to predict depth h. The algorithms are validated by applying them to results of computations for cases with more complex bottom topography and different incident waves than in the original calibration computations. In all cases, root-mean-square (rms)-errors for the depth predictions are found to be less than a few percent, whereas depth predictions based on the linear dispersion relationship—which is still the basis for many state-of-the-art DIAs—have rms-errors 5 to 10 times larger.  相似文献   

2.
The method of empirical orthogonal function (EOF) or principal component analysis (PCA) was used to investigate the spatial and temporal variability of shoreline data sets from Duck, North Carolina, the Gold Coast, Australia, and the United States Pacific Northwest. In the present work, an attempt is made to relate the individual modes of shoreline variability identified by the EOF analyses to select parameterizations of the nearshore environment. The parameters considered include the wave energy (E), the cross-shore and longshore wave energy fluxes (Fx and Fy), the wave steepness (Ho/Lo), the non-dimensional fall velocity parameter (Ω), the profile parameter (P), the surf-similarity parameter (ζ), and a surfzone Froude number (Fr). Correlation analyses were used to evaluate the linear relationship between each of these parameters and the temporal eigenfunctions, ck(t), associated with individual modes of shoreline change. Typically, strong correlations were observed between longshore uniform modes and the monthly means of several of the nearshore parameters.  相似文献   

3.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,37(1):37-56
The seasonal closure of tidal inlets is a common and important coastal phenomena. However, studies which have been specifically geared to identify processes governing seasonal inlet closure are almost non-existent. Hence, this study was undertaken to gain insight into processes governing seasonal inlet closure. To determine the processes governing this phenomenon, Wilson Inlet, Western Australia, a typical seasonally open tidal inlet is taken as a case study. The study comprised of a field experiment over the summer of 1995, and a numerical modeling exercise employing a morphodynamic model. Results of the field study imply that longshore processes may not be the cause of inlet closure, but that onshore sediment transport due to persistent swell wave conditions in summer may govern seasonal closure of the inlet. Application of a morphodynamic model, which includes both cross-shore and longshore processes, to Wilson Inlet conclusively shows that seasonal closure of the inlet is due to onshore sediment transport under typical summer conditions. The effects of summer streamflow and storm events, which are not uncommon, are also examined using the morphodynamic model. The effect of both streamflow and storm events on the `open duration' of the inlet is shown to be dependent on the intensity and timing of the event.  相似文献   

4.
This paper presents an analysis of longshore sediment transport (LST) rates based on an accumulation of data obtained during five storms. Direct measurements of velocities and suspended sediment concentration were conducted at a minimum of nine positions across a barred profile in waves up to Hm0=3.5 m to provide a measure of the cross-shore distribution and total suspended-load sediment transport rates. The study was conducted at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station's Field Research Facility, located in Duck, NC. Measurements were made using the Sensor Insertion System (SIS) which provides an economical means to collect the required information. The largest LST rate computed from the measurements was 1780 m3 h−1. Although the cross-shore distribution of the LST varied, it most often had two peaks associated with wave shoaling and breaking at the bar and near the beach. Comparisons of measurement results with predictions using the ‘CERC' LST formula show the predicted rates were sometimes higher and other times lower; suggesting that additional terms may be required for short term predictions during storms. Comparisons to a ‘Bagnold' type formulation, which included a velocity term that could account for wind and other effects on LST, show better agreement for at least one of the storms. These results are intended to help fill a void of information documenting the cross-shore distribution and LST rates, particularly during storms.  相似文献   

5.
Airy waves have a sinusoidal profile in deep water that can be modeled by a time series at any point x and time t, given by η(x,t) = (Ho/2) cos[2πx/Lo − 2πt/Tw], where Ho is the deepwater height, Lo is the deepwater wavelength, and Tw is the wave period. However, as these waves approach the shore they change in form and dimension so that this equation becomes invalid. A method is presented to reconstruct the wave profile showing the correct wavelength, wave height, wave shape, and displacement of the water surface with respect to the still water level for any water depth.  相似文献   

6.
The hydrodynamic efficiency of the vertical porous structures is investigated under regular waves by use of physical models. The hydrodynamic efficiency of the breakwater is presented in terms of the wave transmission (kt ), reflection (kr) and energy dissipation (kd ) coefficients. Different wave and structural parameters affecting the breakwater efficiency are tested. It is found that, the transmission coefficient (kt ) decreases with the increase of the relative water depth (h/L), the wave steepness (Hi/L), the relative breakwater widths (B/L, B/h), the relative breakwater height (D/h), and the breakwater porosity (n). The reflection coefficient (kr) takes the opposite trend of kt when D/h=1.25 and it decreases with the increasing h/L, Hi/L and B/L when D/h 1.0. The dissipation coefficient (kd) increases with the increasing h/L, Hi/L and B/L when D/h 1.0 and it decreases when D/h=1.25. In which, it is possible to achieve values of kt smaller than 0.3, krlarger than 0.5, and kd larger than 0.6 when D/h=1.25, B/h=0.6, h/L 0.22, B/L 0.13, and Hi/L 0.04. Empirical equations are developed for the estimation of the transmission and reflection coefficients. The results of these equations are compared with other experimental and theoretical results and a reasonable agreement is obtained.  相似文献   

7.
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8.
ABSTRACT

Chilika, a lagoon along the east coast of India, is undergoing transformation due to frequent shoreline change near inlet(s). Shoreline change near inlet includes change in position and shape of inlet, inlet channel length, and spit growth/erosion. These variable features of lagoon inlet(s) critically depend on alongshore sediment transport (LST) and discharge (water and sediment) from the lagoon to the sea. The LST and the processes responsible for sand spit growth/erosion, considered as important attributes of inlet stability, are the subject matter of the present investigation and hence the study assumes importance. The study includes integration of observational and modeling framework. Observations include nearshore wave, bathymetry, beach profile, shoreline and sediment grain size of spits while numerical modeling includes simulation of the wave using MIKE 21 Spectral Wave model and LST simulation using LITtoral DRIFT. The results indicate that the predominant wave directions as S and SSE, which induces round the year south to north alongshore transport with significant seasonal variation in magnitude. The estimated LST closely matches with previous studies near Chilika inlet and for other locations along the Odisha coast. Besides temporal variability, the study reveals spatial variability in alongshore transport near Chilika inlet and considers it as one of the important attributes along with northward spit growth for inlet migration/closure/opening.  相似文献   

9.
New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/wsT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/wsT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/wsT, promoting erosion.  相似文献   

10.
Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
Statistics of wave run-up maxima have been calculated for 149 35-minutes data runs from a natural beach. During the experiment incident wave height varied from 0.4 to 4.0 m, incident wave period from 6 to 16 s, and beach face slope from 0.07 to 0.20. Four extreme statistics were calculated; the maximum run-up height during each run, the 2% exceedence level of shoreline elevation, the 2% exceedence height for individual run-up peaks, and the 2% exceedence level for swash height as determined by the zero-upcrossing method. These statistics were best parameterized when normalized by the incident significant wave height and plotted against the Iribarren number, ξ = β/(H/L0)1/2. The swash data (with set-up removed) showed less scatter than total run-up (with set-up included). For Iribarren number greater than 1.5 the run-up was dominated by the incident frequencies, for lower Iribarren number longer period motions dominated the swash. A reasonable value of wave steepness for a fully developed storm sea is 0.025 so that a storm Iribarren number can be estimated as 6.3 times the beach slope. Using this and an offshore design wave height, the included graphs may provide guidance in determining a design run-up height.  相似文献   

11.
《Coastal Engineering》2002,45(1):19-32
The remote sensing of the sea surface is commonly regarded as a logistically simple and cost-effective way of obtaining long-term (>years) time series of nearshore sandbar location. In this paper, we demonstrate that, similar to video imagery, time-exposure X-band (∼3 cm wave length) radar images contain alongshore, breaking-related high-intensity bands that can be used to compute the location of the underlying sandbar crests. Analysis of time-exposure X-band images and bathymetric surveys collected at Egmond aan Zee, Netherlands shows that the radar-based bar crest location, defined as the cross-shore location of maximum radar intensity, differs from the in situ surveyed crest location by a distance of O(10 m). This difference, Δx̄radar, depends linearly on the offshore water level, consistent with model predictions in which the radar intensity is assumed to behave as the energy of the surface roller. The model additionally suggests a dependence of Δx̄radar on the offshore wave height when the wave field across the bar is non-saturated. In general, such wave conditions did not result in radar images with sufficient contrast to determine the bar crest location and, accordingly, the wave-height dependence was not observed clearly in the field. Because of the dependence of Δx̄radar on the offshore water level, time series of radar-based bar crest location show artificial variability when the images are collected at different water levels. Various techniques for correcting this variability are discussed.  相似文献   

12.
Experimental data are described on the threshold of transport of quartz, ilmenite, and cassiterite grains under oscillatory flow in a flume and the results are compared to those of other investigators. The results show that for a given particle size, critical shear stress (τcrit) increases with increasing wave period and that τcrit increases with both grain size and grain density. These data are compared with prediction equations.  相似文献   

13.
Coastal structures may cease to function properly due to seabed scouring. Hence, prediction of the maximum scour depth is of great importance for the protection of these structures. Since scour is the result of a complicated interaction between structure, sediment, and incoming waves, empirical equations are not as accurate as machine learning schemes, which are being widely employed for the coastal engineering modeling. In this paper, which can be regarded as an extension of Pourzangbar et al. (2016), two soft computing methods, a support vector regression (SVR), and a model tree algorithm (M5′), have been implemented to predict the maximum scour depth due to non-breaking waves. The models predict the relative scour depth (Smax/H0) on the basis of the following variables: relative water depth at the toe of the breakwater (htoe/L0), Shields parameter (θ), non-breaking wave steepness (H0/L0), and reflection coefficient (Cr). 95 laboratory data points, extracted from dedicated experimental studies, have been used for developing the models, whose performances have been assessed on the basis of statistical parameters. The results suggest that all of the developed models predict the maximum scour depth with high precision, the M5′ model performed marginally better than the SVR model and also allowed to define a set of transparent and physically sound relationships. Such relationships, which are in good agreement with the existing empirical findings, show that the relative scour depth is mainly affected by wave reflection.  相似文献   

14.
Experimental data are described on the threshold of transport of quartz, ilmenite, and cassiterite grains under oscillatory flow in a flume and the results are compared to those of other investigators. The results show that for a given particle size, critical shear stress (τcrit) increases with increasing wave period and that τcrit increases with both grain size and grain density. These data are compared with prediction equations.  相似文献   

15.
Waves, topographic features and material properties are known as the most important factors affecting the sediment movement and coastal profiles. In this study, considering wave height (H=6.5, 17, 16, 20, 23, 26 and 30 cm) and period (T=1.46 and 2.03 s), bed slope (m=1/10, 1/15 and 1/25) and sediment diameter (d50=0.18, 0.26, 0.33 and 0.40 mm), cross-shore sediment movement was investigated using a physical model and various offshore bar geometric parameters were determined by the resultant erosion profile. The offshore bar geometric characteristics are the distance between the bar crest and the shoreline, the depth from bar crest to the still-water level, the distance between the equilibrium point and the shoreline, the distance between the closure point and the shoreline, and the bar volume. Dimensional and non-dimensional equations were obtained by using non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and compared with those of previously developed equations. The results have indicated that the proposed equations fit to experimental data better than previously developed equations.  相似文献   

16.
To provide coastal engineers and scientists with a detailed inter-comparison of widely used parametric wave transformation models, several models are tested and calibrated with extensive observations from six field experiments on barred and unbarred beaches. Using previously calibrated (“default”) values of a free parameter γ, all models predict the observations reasonably well (median root-mean-square wave height errors are between 10% and 20%) at all field sites. Model errors can be reduced by roughly 50% by tuning γ for each data record. No tuned or default model provides the best predictions for all data records or at all experiments. Tuned γ differ for the different models and experiments, but in all cases γ increases as the hyperbolic tangent of the deep-water wave height, Ho. Data from two experiments are used to estimate empirical, universal curves for γ based on Ho. Using the new parameterization, all models have similar accuracy, and usually show increased skill relative to using default γ.  相似文献   

17.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(1):35-52
Measurements were obtained from the swash-zone of a high-energy macrotidal dissipative beach of pore-pressure at four levels below the bed, and cross-shore velocity at a single height above the bed. Time-series from relatively high (Hs≈2.0 m) energy conditions were chosen for analysis from the mid-swash-zone at high tide. Calculation of upwards-directed pore-pressure gradients shows that, in this case, fluidisation of the upper layer of sediment, leading to enhanced backwash transport, is unlikely. An apparent conflict exists in the literature regarding the net effect of infiltration–exfiltration on the sediment transport, through the combined effects of stabilisation–destabilisation and boundary layer modification. This is examined for the data collected using a modified Shields parameter. Inferred instantaneous transport rates integrated over a single swash cycle show a decrease in uprush transport of 10.5% and an increase in backwash transport of 4.5%. Sensitivity tests suggest that there is a critical grain size at which the influence of infiltration–exfiltration changes from offshore to onshore. The exact value of this grain size is highly sensitive to the method used to estimate the friction factor.  相似文献   

18.
The performance of two well accepted formulations for white capping and wind input of third generation wave models, viz., WAM-3 and WAM-4, were investigated using parallel unstructured SWAN (PunSWAN). Several alternative formulations were also considered to evaluate the effects of higher order steepness and wave number terms in white capping formulations. Distinct model configurations were calibrated and validated against available in situ measurements from the Gulf of Mexico. The results showed that some of the in situ calibrated models outperform the saturation level calibrated models in reproducing the idealized wave growth curves. The simulation results also revealed that increasing the power of the steepness term can enhance the accuracy of significant wave height (Hs), at the expense of a higher bias for large waves. It also has negative effects on mean wave period (Ta) and peak wave period (Tp). It is also demonstrated that the use of the quadratic wave number term in the WAM-3 formulation, instead of the existing linear term, ameliorates the Ta underestimation; however, it results in the model being unable to reach any saturation level. In addition, unlike Hs and Tp, it has been shown that Ta is sensitive to the use of the higher order WAM-4 formulation, and the bias is decreased over a wide range of wave periods. However, it also increases the scatter index (SI) of simulated Ta. It is concluded that the use of the WAM-4 wind input formulation in conjunction with the WAM-3 dissipation form, is the most successful case in reproducing idealized wave growth curves while avoiding Ta underestimation of WAM-3 and a potential spurious bimodal spectrum of WAM-4; consequently, this designates another perspective to improve the overall performance of third generation wave models.  相似文献   

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