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1.
The present study investigates the impact of wave energy and littoral current on shorelines along the south-west coast of Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu, India. The multi-temporal Landsat TM, ETM+ images acquired from 1999 to 2011 were used to demarcate the rate of shoreline shift using GIS-based Digital Shoreline Analysis System. The statistical analysis such as net shoreline movement and end point rate were determined from the multi-temporal shoreline layers. Moreover, the wave energy and seasonal littoral current velocity were calculated for each coastal zone using mathematical equations. The results reveal that the coastal zones, which include Kanyakumari, Kovalam, Manavalakurichi and Thengapattinam coasts, consisting of maximum wave energy along with high velocity of littoral current, have faced continuous erosion processes. The estimated wave energy along these zones ranges from 6.5 to 8.5 kJ/km2 and the observed current velocity varies from 0.22 to 0.32 m/s during south-west and north-east monsoons. The cumulative effect of these coastal processes in the study area leads to severe erosion that is estimated as 300.63, 69.92, 54.12 and 66.11 m, respectively. However, the coastal zones, namely Rajakkamangalam, Ganapathipuram, Muttam and Colachel, have experienced sediment deposits due to current movement during the north-east monsoon. However, the trend changes during the south-west monsoon as a result of sediment drift through backwash. The spatial variation of shoreline and its impact on wave energy and the littoral current have been mapped using the geo-spatial technology. This study envisages the impact of coastal processes on site-specific shorelines. Hence, the study will be effective for sustainable coastal zone management. 相似文献
2.
为揭示河口湾水动力环境对滩涂利用的累积响应过程,以珠江口伶仃洋河口湾为例,基于潮波数学模型和潮流数学模型,研究了1981年以来湾内进出潮量、分潮振幅和潮流流速的累积变化。结果表明:相对于1981年,2018年岸线条件下伶仃洋湾口断面涨落潮量累积减少4.9%~6.0%、内伶仃断面涨落潮量累积减少9.0%~12.8%、深圳湾断面涨落潮量累积减少17.8%、南沙断面涨落潮量累积减少5.0%~6.3%;伶仃洋M2分潮振幅呈增加趋势,振幅增幅由南向北增加,潮波由南向北变形进一步加剧;伶仃洋最大可能潮差变化与M2分潮振幅变化趋势一致,潮汐性质没有发生变化;伶仃洋潮流流速总体减小,西岸流速减幅高于东岸,湾顶附近流速略有增加。 相似文献
3.
2007年7月在上海崇明东滩盐沼内部采用复合测量手段进行了现场观测,对取得的盐沼水动力过程数据进行了较系统的分析。崇明东滩盐沼内部的观测及分析结果表明:(1)潮沟及盐沼表面对潮波产生严重阻尼作用,潮波传播至盐沼内部时,潮沟水位波动明显异于外海,水位上升极快,而下降慢。当潮沟有退水时,涨潮初期的当地水位上升并不是潮水进入潮沟的结果,而是流向相反的潮沟进口涨潮水和潮沟内退潮水形成的水位壅高;(2)潮波进入盐沼内部时,风具有一定作用,向岸风可抬高潮沟及盐沼内部水位,离岸风反之;(3)潮沟水流流速与潮沟水位变化率、外海潮位变化率都不存在相关关系;(4)潮沟水位低时,过流断面较小,涨潮水进入潮沟时,潮沟水一旦改变流向,就具备很高的流速并伴随流速峰值的出现。潮沟水向盐沼表面漫溢时,过流断面突变,潮沟流速出现峰值。由于潮沟退潮水位变化慢,盐沼表面水归槽时并没有产生潮沟流速峰值。根据崇明东滩观测结果,概括了盐沼水动力过程的影响因素,指出了以后研究应重视的问题。 相似文献
4.
Coastal salt marshes represent an important coastal wetland system. In order to protect coastlines from erosion and rapid
increase in accumulation rate, Spartina alterniflora (S. alterniflora) was introduced into the Chinese coast. Two study areas (Wanggang and Quanzhou Bay) were selected that represent the plain
type and embayment type of the coastal salt marshes. In situ measurements show that the tidal current velocities are stronger
on the intertidal mudflat without S. alterniflora than that with S. alterniflora, and the velocity above the canopy surface is larger than that in the salt marsh canopy. The existence of S. alterniflora also influences the velocity structure above the bare flat during ebb tide. With the decrease in current flow velocity when
seawater enters into the S. alterniflora marsh, suspended sediments are largely entrapped on the marsh surface, leading to increase in sedimentation rates and change
in physical evolution processes of the coastal salt marshes. The highly developed root systemof S. alterniflora induces sediment mixing and exchange between subsurface sediment strata and affects the vertical sediment distribution remarkably.
The sedimentation rate of S. alterniflora marsh at the Wanggang area is much higher than the relative sea level rise rate, where rapid progradation of theWanggang
saltmarshes that is protecting the coast from sea erosion is observed. 相似文献
5.
动参数法包括频率法和频率-初速法已应用于检测各种地基和桩基的承载力。在用频率法检测地基承载力大小的基础上提出了一种改进的动参数法。首先,采用不同的压模面积,利用线性回归分析得到地基抗压刚度系数Cz和压模面积A的立方根的乘积值的大小,再计算了承压板面积为20 m2时的地基抗压刚度系数,最后通过相关规范得到地基承载力的大小。并与静力法测试结果相比较,发现其结果非常相似。 相似文献
6.
Anne-Eleonore Paquier Jana Haddad Seth Lawler Celso M. Ferreira 《Estuaries and Coasts》2017,40(4):930-946
Coastal wetlands are receiving increased consideration as natural defenses for coastal communities from storm surge. However, there are gaps in storm surge measurements collected in marsh areas during extreme events as well as understanding of storm surge processes. The present study evaluates the importance and variation of different processes (i.e., wave, current, and water level dynamics with respect of the marsh topography and vegetation characteristics) involved in a storm surge over a marsh, assesses how these processes contribute to storm surge attenuation, and quantifies the storm surge attenuation in field conditions. During the Fall of 2015, morphology and vegetation surveys were conducted along a marsh transect in a coastal marsh located at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, mainly composed of Spartina alterniflora and Spartina patens. Hydrodynamic surveys were conducted during two storm events. Collected data included wave characteristics, current velocity and direction, and water levels. Data analysis focused on the understanding of the cross-shore evolution of waves, currents and water level, and their influence on the overall storm surge attenuation. Results indicate that the marsh area, despite its short length, attenuates waves and reduces current velocity and water level. Tides have a dominant influence on current direction and velocity, but the presence of vegetation and the marsh morphology contribute to a strong reduction of current velocity over the marsh platform relative to the currents at the marsh front. Wave attenuation varies across the tide cycle which implies a link between wave attenuation and water level and, consequently, storm surge height. Storm surge reduction, here assessed through high water level (HWL) attenuation, is linked to wave attenuation across the front edge of the marsh; this positive trend highlights the reduction of water level height induced by wave setup reduction during wave propagation across the marsh front edge. Water level attenuation rates observed here have a greater range than the rates observed or modeled by other authors, and our results suggest that this is linked to the strong influence of waves in storm surge attenuation over coastal areas. 相似文献
7.
The kinematic and dynamic of steep two-dimensional focusing wave trains on a shearing flow in deep water are investigated analytically and numerically. In the absence of waves, the vorticity due to the vertical gradient of the horizontal current velocity is assumed constant. A linear kinematic model based on the spatio-temporal evolution of the frequency is derived, predicting the focusing distance and time of a chirped wave packet in the presence of constant vorticity. Furthermore, a linear model, based on a Fourier integral, is used to describe the evolution of the free surface on shearing current. To compute the fully nonlinear evolution of the wave group in the presence of vorticity, a new numerical model, based on a BIEM approach, is developed. On the basis of these different approaches, the role of constant vorticity on rogue wave occurrence is analysed. Two main results are obtained: (1) the linear behaviour expected in the presence of constant vorticity is significantly different from what is commonly expected in the presence of constant current and (2) the nonlinear effects are found to be of significant influence in the case at hand. 相似文献
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10.
A Field Study of How Wind Waves and Currents May Contribute to the Deterioration of Saltmarsh Fringe
Deltaic landscapes, such as the Mississippi River Delta, are sites of extensive conversion of wetlands to open water, where increased fetch may contribute to erosion of marsh edges, increasing wetland loss. A field experiment conducted during a storm passage tested this process through the observations of wave orbital and current velocities in the fringe zone of a deteriorating saltmarsh in Terrebonne Bay, Louisiana. Incident waves seaward of the marsh edge and wave orbital and current velocities immediate landward of the marsh edge were measured. Through a dimensional analysis, it shows that the current and orbital velocities in the marsh fringe were controlled by the incident waves, inundation depth, submergence ratio, and vegetation density. Similarly, it is shown that the longshore currents in the inundated saltmarsh fringe depended on the local wave-induced momentum flux, vegetation submergence, and vegetation density in the fringe zone. The cross-shore current showed the presence of a return flow in the lower region of the velocity profile. A high correlation between the current direction and the local flow-wave energy ratio as well as the vegetation submergence and density is found, indicating the important role of surface waves in the fringe flow landward of an inundated wetland under storm conditions. The field observations shed light on the potential ecological consequences of increased wave activities in coastal saltmarsh wetlands owing to subsidence, sea level rise, limited sediment supply, increases in wind fetch, and storm intensity. 相似文献
11.
为研究叠加波浪场的裂流特征,在平直沙坝海岸地形进行了叠加波浪形成的沿岸波高周期性变化的裂流试验研究。试验中叠加波浪是由波浪在垂直岸线的丁坝反射所形成的两列交叉波浪叠加产生,交叉波浪是具有等频率但入射角相反的两波列。通过对叠加波浪节腹点垂直岸线位置浪高的测量和沙坝范围内沿岸布置的声学多普勒测速仪流速测量结果来分析沙坝海岸丁坝反射波形成的裂流特性,讨论了波浪节腹点对裂流位置和裂流空间尺度的影响。对不同周期情况在x=5 m沙坝顶处的速度剖面对比,分析了不同周期对裂流的影响。 相似文献
12.
均匀介质中的F-K反偏移:基本概念、基本公式及其在非均匀介质中的应用 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
孙建国 《吉林大学学报(地球科学版)》2008,38(1):135-143
从经典的常速度F-K偏移成像理论公式出发,通过由垂直波数到角频率映射的途径首先建立了常速度F-K反偏移的基本理论公式和基本实现算法,然后再将其用于解决非均匀介质中的反偏移问题。与同样条件下的Kirchhoff型反偏移理论相比,在建立常速度F-K反偏移理论时没有引入任何近似。因此,所提出的是一个在均匀介质中严格精确的反偏移理论。对于一般条件下的非均匀介质,利用了在现代反射地震偏移理论研究中常用的局部化处理方法和相移加插值(PSPI)偏移的基本思想。具体地讲,在处理非均匀介质中的反偏移问题时假设偏移场的形成完全由局部薄板(层)中的速度结构决定。此外,还假设偏移场是速度的连续函数。因此,可以在局部薄板(层)中利用关于垂直坐标的Fourier变换和均匀介质中的频散关系,以及一组均匀参考速度来近似地构造出在不均匀速度模型中任意一个给定深度上的反偏移场。在算法上,在均匀介质中的F-K反偏移是一个一步过程,而在非均匀介质中基于PSPI的F-K反偏移是一个多步递归过程。为了实现反偏移必须要从速度模型的最大深度开始逐层地进行插值和反向相移计算,直至到达地表为止。 相似文献
13.
浅海底边界动力过程与物质交换研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
浅海底边界动力过程是能量分配、颗粒物输运和水—底边界物质交换的关键环节,深入研究浅海底边界动力过程是提高环境容纳量预测能力的重要前提。分析了国内外该研究方向的进展和现状,提出在黄海中部和长江口外两个典型海区,以集成先进设备的海床基观测平台和水体要素连续观测的研究策略,获得底边界流场结构、水体和底边界湍流混合特征、底耗散动力学参数、底颗粒物浓度和梯度变化等规律,建立潮汐、层化、海浪等不同动力条件下底边界动力过程参数化方案,研究沉积物启动、沉降等动力学规律,以数值模式探讨海底拖曳力变化对潮流和环流结构的影响;了解颗粒物组成的季节变化及对起动、再悬浮、絮凝等动力过程的影响,以颗粒物输运模型研究中国近海沉积物源汇分布;以同位素示踪研究底界面交换对动力过程的响应。为解决面临的2个科学问题：①中国近海底边界能量耗散在能量分配中的作用;②中国近海底边界动力过程、颗粒物输运与物质交换的多时空尺度变化规律,奠定基础。 相似文献
14.
A mathematical model has been developed to forecast or hindcast wind, waves, and longshore currents during the passage of a coastal storm. Storm intensity is a function of the barometric pressure gradient which is modeled by rotating an inverted normal curve around the center of an ellipse. The length and orientation of the major and minor axes of the ellipse control the size and shape of the storm. The path of the storm is determined by a sequence of storm positions for the hindcast mode, and by interpolated positions assuming constant speed and direction for the forecast mode. The site location, shoreline orientation, and nearshore bottom slope provide input data for the shore position. The geostrophic wind speed and direction at the shore site are computed from the latitude and barometric pressure gradient. The geostrophic wind is converted into surface wind speed and direction by applying corrections for frictional effects over land and sea. The surface wind speed and direction, effective fetch, and wind duration are used to compute wave period, breaker height, and breaker angle at the shore site. The longshore current velocity is computed as a function of wave period, breaker height and angle, and nearshore slope. The model was tested by comparing observed data for several coastal locations with predicted values for wind speed, wave period and height, and longshore current velocity. Forecasts were made for actual storms and for hypothetical circular and elliptical storms. 相似文献
15.
Saltwater intrusion into coastal freshwater aquifers is an ongoing problem that will continue to impact coastal freshwater resources as coastal populations increase. To effectively model saltwater intrusion, the impacts of increased salt content on fluid density must be accounted for to properly model saltwater/freshwater transition zones and sharp interfaces. We present a model for variable density fluid flow and solute transport where a conforming finite element method discretization with a locally conservative velocity post-processing method is used for the flow model and the transport equation is discretized using a variational multiscale stabilized conforming finite element method. This formulation provides a consistent velocity and performs well even in advection-dominated problems that can occur in saltwater intrusion modeling. The physical model is presented as well as the formulation of the numerical model and solution methods. The model is tested against several 2-D and 3-D numerical and experimental benchmark problems, and the results are presented to verify the code. 相似文献
16.
Kuo-Chuin Wong 《Estuaries and Coasts》1999,22(2):194-205
The buoyant discharge from Delaware Bay forms two separate branches of residual outflow near the bay mouth, one along each shore. Upon exiting the bay, the branch along the Delaware shore turns right to form the southward flowing Delaware coastal current along the inner continental shelf off the Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia coasts. CTD and thermosalinograph, data collected at the mouth of Delaware Bay over two semidiurnal tidal cycles are used to examine the hydrographic distribution at the source region of the Delaware coastal current. In this region the buoyant source water of the coastal current, is largely detached from the shoreline and confined to the top 15 m of the water column over much of the tidal cycles. The core of the coastal current's source water, as defined by the point of salinity minimum, is located over the deep channel well offshore of the Delaware coast. The separation between this buoyant water and the more saline waters right along the Delaware coast and that in the central part of the bay mouth are marked by regions of high horizontal salinity gradients. The horizontal salinity gradients around the inshore and offshore boundaries of the source water of the coastal current are intensified during the flood tide, and clearly defined fronts (with a change of 3‰ over a distance of 150 m) are present at the offshore boundary near the end of the flood tide. The structure of the mean flow and the distribution of the brackish coastal current on the inner continental shelf contribute to the persistence of stratification in the source region off the Delaware shore throughout the ebb and flood tides. In contrast, the ebb-induced stratification in the region off the New Jersey shore is quickly destroyed with the onset of the flood current. 相似文献
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Effects of mesoscale physical processes on thin zooplankton layers at four sites along the west coast of the U.S. 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Olivia M. Cheriton Margaret A. McManus D. V. Holliday Charles F. Greenlaw Percy L. Donaghay Tim J. Cowles 《Estuaries and Coasts》2007,30(4):575-590
Within the coastal marine environment, populations of phytoplankton, zooplankton, bacteria, viruses, and aggregations of marine
snow are frequently concentrated beneath the surface in discrete, vertically thin layers. Thin layers range in vertical dimension
from a few centimeters to three meters, and have been observed to extend horizontally for kilometers. They appear in the water
column episodically and can persist for days. We present some of the results of an investigation of four coastal sites along
the west coast of the United States to assess frequency of occurrence of thin layers of zooplankton. Our study sites included
coastal sites near East Sound, Washington; Cape Perpetua, Oregon; Monterey Bay, California; and Santa Barbara, California.
At each site, we collected several, weeks-long time series of hydrography, current velocity, and acoustic backscatter due
to mesozooplankton. Our results show that thin layers were common features at all four sites. Across all study sites, a change
in the predominant physical regime, usually precipitated by a change in the wind pattern, corresponded with an absence of
thin Zooplankton layers. In order to make a first-order prediction about when thin layers have the possibility of occurring
in a coastal environment, we found it useful to examine regional wind and circulation patterns and to determine how they affect
stratification in each local environment. 相似文献
19.
高含水率饱和淤泥质软黏土在封闭系统中由冻结引起的土体内部水分迁移是影响其冻胀速率的重要因素。为揭示冷端温度对沿海软黏土水分迁移特性的影响,采用上海第四系滨海-浅海相淤泥质黏土,在-5~-20 ℃冷端温度条件下开展了封闭系统单向冻结试验,测定了试样冻胀量及沿着温度梯度方向的试样温度,得到了冻结锋面高度随冻结时间的发展规律、引起水分迁移的临界温度梯度、水分迁移入流通量及入流速率。结果表明:试样冻结锋面高度是关于冻结时间的函数,其拟合公式形如X(t)=t(at+b)-1;冻结区内温度梯度降低至临界温度梯度是水分迁移起始的判据,随着冷端温度的降低,临界温度梯度线性增大;水分入流速率随冻结时间的延长先增大后减小,水分入流通量-冻结时间曲线随冷端温度的降低由“S型”逐渐趋于线性;结合临界温度梯度-冷端温度关系式和冻结锋面高度-冻结时间拟合公式,可预测某一冷端温度条件下封闭系统单向冻结过程中试样内部水分迁移的起始时刻。以上试验结果有助于推进封闭系统单向冻结过程中高含水率软土水分迁移特性的定量研究,为沿海软土地区冻结法施工中冻胀量预警提供重要参考依据。 相似文献