共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
1.
A VOF-based numerical model for breaking waves in surf zone 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This paper introduces a numerical model for studying the evolution of a periodic wave train, shoaling, and breaking in surf zone. The model can solve the Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations for a mean flow, and (he k-s equations for turbulence kinetic energy k and turbulence dissipation rate e. To track a free surface, the volume of fluid (VOF) function, satisfying the advection equation was introduced. In the numerical treatment, third-order upwind difference scheme was applied to the convection terms of the RANS equations in order to reduce the effect of numerical viscosity. The shoaling and breaking processes of a periodic wave train on gently sloping beaches were modeled. The computed wave heights of a sloping beach and the distribution of breaking wave pressure on a vertical wall were compared with laboratory data. 相似文献
2.
As an important physical process at the air-sea interface, wave movement and breaking have a significant effect on the ocean surface mixed layer （OSML）. When breaking waves occur at the ocean surface, turbulent kinetic energy （TKE） is input downwards, and a sublayer is formed near the surface and turbulence vertical mixing is intensively enhanced. A one-dimensional ocean model including the Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure equations was employed in our research on variations in turbulent energy budget within OSML. The influence of wave breaking could be introduced into the model by modifying an existing surface boundary condition of the TKE equation and specifying its input. The vertical diffusion and dissipation of TKE were effectively enhanced in the sublayer when wave breaking was considered. Turbulent energy dissipated in the sublayer was about 92.0% of the total depth-integrated dissipated TKE, which is twice higher than that of non-wave breaking. The shear production of TKE decreased by 3.5% because the mean flow fields tended to be uniform due to wave-enhanced turbulent mixing. As a result, a new local equilibrium between diffusion and dissipation of TKE was reached in the wave-enhanced layer. Below the sublayer, the local equilibrium between shear production and dissipation of TKE agreed with the conclusion drawn from the classical law-of-the-wall （Craig and Banner, 1994）. 相似文献
3.
ZHENGGuizhen SHENGLifang CONGPeixiu 《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2004,3(2):123-128
A mechanism is suggested in this paper concerning the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves. According to this mechanism, a non-uniform current brings changes to the breaking criteria of short wind waves through modulating the surface drift, and hence enhances or weakens wave breaking. Some modification is proposed to the source term, which represents the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking so that the source term can incorporate this mechanism. In order to illustrate whether this mechanism is significant, a real case is studied, in which the wind waves propagate on a tidal current flowing over the sea bottom covered with sand waves. Finally, the effect of the new mechanism on the equilibrium spectrum of small scale gravity waves is discussed. Numerical estimates suggest that, for water depths less than 50 m and wavelengths less than 1 m, this current field may result in distinct spatial variations of the wave breaking criteria, the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation and the equilibrium spectrum of short gravity waves. 相似文献
4.
楼菁 《中国海洋湖沼学报》1994,12(4):361-371
A numerical model based on the mild-slope equation of water wave propagation over complicated bathymetry,taking into account the combined effects of refraction,diffraction and dissipation due to wavebreaking is presented.Wave breaking is simulated by modifying the wave height probability density func-tion and the wave energy dissipation mechanism is parameterized according to that of the hydraulic jumpformulation.Solutions of the wave height,phase function,and the wave direction at every grid point areobtained by finite difference approximation of the governing equations,using Gauss-Seidel Iterative Method(GSIM)row by row.Its computational convenience allows it to be applied to large coast regions tostudy the wave transformation problem.Several case studies have been made and the results compare verywell with the experiment data and other model solutions.The capability and utility of the model forreal coast areas are illustrated by application to a shallow bay of northeast Australia. 相似文献
5.
Laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the evolution of interfacial internal solitary waves(ISWs) incident on a triangular barrier. ISWs with different amplitudes were generated by gravitational collapse. The ISW energy dissipation and turbulence processes were calculated as waves passed over the triangular barrier. Experimental results showed that ISWs were reflecting back off the triangular barrier, and shoaling ISWs led to wave breaking and mixing when waves propagated over the obstacle. Wave instability created the dissipation of energy as it was transmitted from waves to turbulence. The rate of ISW energy dissipation, the maximum turbulent dissipation, and the buoyancy diffusivity linearly increased with the increase in the incident wave energy. 相似文献
6.
7.
LI Qiang MAO Xianzhong DENG Guotong ZHAO Ruixiang ZHANG Chuanzheng ZHU Xiaohua 《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2019,(4)
Internal tides generated by a rough sea floor are an important source of mixing in the abyssal ocean. Two linear models are employed to evaluate the conversion rate from barotropic tides to internal tides and the energy distribution in each mode. Considering the periodicity of internal tides, the topography is represented by periodically distributed knife edges and sinusoidal ridges within one wavelength of mode-1 internal tides. The knife edges generate greater internal tides than the sinusoidal ridges due to their sharp shape, which approximates an extremely supercritical condition. Energy flux concentrates in modes whose numbers are multiples of the knife edge or ridge number. Then, a fully nonlinear model that integrates viscosity and diffusion is implemented, and its results are compared with those of the linear model. Internal wave rays generated in the nonlinear model show a distribution similar to the linear models' prediction. High dissipation rates coincide with the rays, suggesting that nonlinear wave-wave interaction is a dominant mechanism for internal tide dissipation in the abyssal ocean. 相似文献
8.
Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using
a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations. The model is first tested by the additional
experimental data, and the model’s capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope
is demonstrated. Then, the model’s breaking index is replaced and tested. The new breaking index, which is optimized from
the several breaking indices, is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes. Numerical tests
show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking.
Finally, the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over
a submerged bar. Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the
dimensionless bar height (normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses. It is also found that the bar
slope (limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length (normalized by incident wave length)
have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses. 相似文献
9.
A THIRD GENERATION SHALLOW WATER WAVE NUMERICAL MODEL-YE-WAM 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
This paper pnesents a third gneration shallow Whter disode spedtal wave nbotal medeIYE-WAM based on the spedtal action balance equation. The mode accounts for all edevan effectsof currents on waves, incuding tmpotally and spatialy varying depth and current inded refraction,sttalning and fequency shift and also explidtly takeS into aanunt all source terms, speclally adePth-limited breaking dheipation. In addition, an energy forcing scheme is propond and applied to themode's open boundaries to areUn for the propagution of sedIs into the study spstem The upwinddiffeIenng scheme and a standard hybrid diffdrencing scheme for the propagaion terrn and a simpleEuler method for the source teme are employed. 相似文献
10.
Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model is first tested by the additional experimental data,and the model's capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated.Then,the model's breaking index is replaced and tested.The new breaking index,which is optimized from the several breaking i... 相似文献
11.
lareODUcrI0NThephenomenonofbreakingwavesintheoasnoocurswheneveramomentahiyhighcrestmecheSanunstablecondition.It0ccursintendtimhy,andtheoccurrencefre-qUencydePendsonthescastate.ManystudAshaddricaniedoutontheoccurmcefre-qUencyofbrmkingwavesindeepweter.0chiandTsai(l983),LongueHiggins(l975)andVanD0mandPamn(l975)nadstheptalictonofbrmkingwavesoccurrenceindeePwater,usingabaskingcriterionforindividualwavesbasedonthewavesmpness.ThecriterioncanbeexpmeedintennSofthewaVehdghtHandperiodTasH>PgT'(… 相似文献
12.
In this study, the simulating waves nearshore(SWAN) model with a locally refined curvilinear grid system was constructed to simulate waves in Jervis Bay and the neighbouring ocean of Australia, with the aim of examining the wave characteristics in an area with special topography and practical importance.This model was verified by field observations from buoys and acoustic Doppler profilers(ADPs). The model precisions were validated for both wind-generated waves and open-ocean swells. We present an approach with which to convert ADP-observed current data from near the bottom into the significant wave height. Our approach is deduced from the Fourier transform technique and the linear wave theory. The results illustrate that the location of the bay entrance is important because it allows the swells in the dominant direction to propagate into the bay despite the narrowness of the bay entrance. The wave period T p is also strongly related to the wave direction in the semi-enclosed bay. The T p is great enough along the entire propagating direction from the bay entrance to the top of the bay, and the largest T p appears along the north-west coast,which is the end tip of the swells' propagation. 相似文献
13.
Ray Q. Lin Scott Chubb 《中国海洋湖沼学报》2006,24(3):225-235
1 INTRODUCTION Wave-wave interactions play a key role in the evolution of the dynamics of upper ocean phenomena. Even though they conserve total wave energy, these interactions cause energy cascades to occur in which wave-energy is transferred at the surf… 相似文献
14.
In order to build a rapid ocean ambient noise model adapted for a stratified shallow water, a hybrid model of normal mode method (for far field) and ray method (for near field) is suggested which combines the advantages of both methods. Since the near field of wind-generated noise is not sensitive to the sound speed profile, the sound speed profile is regarded as a constant; which makes the model rapid and accurate. The simulation results are in agreement with those of the wave model. 相似文献
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16.
《中国海洋湖沼学报》2019,(6)
In this study, typhoon waves generated during three typhoons(Damrey(1210), Fung-wong(1416), and Chan-hom(1509)) in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were simulated in a simulating waves nearshore(SWAN) model, and the wind forcing was constructed by combining reanalyzed wind data with a Holland typhoon wind model. Various parameters, such as the Holland fitting parameter(B) and the maximum wind radius(R), were investigated in sensitivity experiments in the Holland model that affect the wind field construction. Six different formulations were considered and the parameters determined by comparing the simulated wind results with in-situ wind measurements. The key factors affecting wave growth and dissipation processes from deep to shallow waters were studied, including wind input, whitecapping, and bottom friction. Comparison with in-situ wave measurements suggested that the KOMEN scheme(wind input exponential growth and whitecapping energy dissipation) and the JONSWAP scheme(dissipation of bottom friction) resulted in good reproduction of the significant wave height of typhoon waves. A preliminary analysis of the wave characteristics in terms of wind-sea and swell wave revealed that swell waves dominated with the distance of R to the eye of the typhoon, while wind-sea prevailed in the outer region up to six to eight times the R values despite a clear misalignment between wind and waves. The results support the hypothesis that nonlinear wave-wave interactions may play a key role in the formation of wave characteristics. 相似文献
17.
通过对粤东后江湾近岸带垂岸方向上4个测站,同步观测到的波浪数据进行频域统计分析,初步探讨分析了波浪近岸传播过程中波浪统计性质的变化规律。结果表明:碎波带内波的频谱多峰特征显著,峰频两侧均存在着显著能量峰值,峰频能量发生转移;波浪经过破碎后,约束长波能量被释放出来;波浪向岸过程中谱宽度(ε)变大,同时谱尖度(Qp)减小,显著波陡(Ss)增大,峰值周期(Tp)增大,平均周期(Tm02)减小。 相似文献
18.
《中国海洋大学学报(英文版)》2015,(5)
This paper mainly analyzes the tidal characteristics and small-scale mixing process near Zhoushan Islands. First, the spectral analysis and wavelet analysis are adopted for the measured tide level data and tidal current data from the Zhoushan sea area, which indicate that the main tidal cycle near Hulu Island and Taohua Island is semi-diurnal cycle, the diurnal cycle is subordinate. Both their intensities are changed periodically, meanwhile, the diurnal tide becomes stronger when semi-diurnal tide becomes weak. The intensity of baroclinic tidal current weakens at first and then strengthens from top to bottom. Then, in this paper, the Gregg-Henyey(G-H) parameterization method is adopted to calculate the turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate based on the measured temperature and tidal current data. The results of which shown that the turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate around Hulu Island is higher than that around Taohua Island. In most cases, the turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate during spring tide is larger than that during the neap tide; the turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate in the surface layer and the bottom layer are higher than that in the intermediate water; the changes of turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate and tidal current are basically synchronous. The modeled turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate gets smaller with the increase of the stratification, however, gets larger with the increase of shearing. 相似文献
19.
To understand the processes and energy dissipation performance caused by turbulence during the wave run-up over a stepped revetment, hydraulic model tests with steady flow conditions are conducted and correlated with unsteady flow conditions of the wave run-up within a short time frame. Under irregular waves, the run-up reduction over a stepped revetment is dependent on the Iribarren number and decreases for decreasing Iribarren numbers. Velocity gradients are found to be similar in a steady and unsteady flow regime near the pseudo-bottom. 相似文献
20.
The effects of different wind input and wave dissipation formulations on the steady Ekman current solution are described. Two formulations are considered： one from the wave modeling （WAM） program proposed by Hasselmann and Komen and the other provided by Tsagareli and Babanin. The solution adopted for our study was presented by Song for the wave-modified Ekman current model that included the Stokes drift, wind input, and wave dissipation with eddy viscosity increasing linearly with depth. Using the Combi spectrum with tail effects, the solutions are calculated using two formulations for wind input and wave dissipation, and compared. Differences in the results are not negligible. Furthermore, the solution presented by Song and Xu for the eddy viscosity formulated using the K-Profile Parameterization scheme under wind input and wave dissipation given by Tsagareli and Babanin is compared with that obtained for a depth-dependent eddy viscosity. The solutions are further compared with the available well-known observational data. The result indicates that the Tsagareli and Babanin scheme is more suitable for use in the model when capillary waves are included, and the solution calculated using the K-Profile Parameterization scheme agrees best with observations. 相似文献