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1.
A new form of higher order Boussinesq equations 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
On the basis of the higher order Boussinesq equations derived by the author (1999), a new form of higher order Boussinesq equations is developed through replacing the depth-averaged velocity vector by a new velocity vector in the equations in order to increase the accuracy of the linear dispersion, shoaling property and nonlinear characteristics of the equations. The dispersion of the new equations is accurate to a [4/4] Pade expansion in kh. Compared to the previous higher order Boussinesq equations, the accuracy of quadratic transfer functions is improved and the shoaling property of the equations have higher accuracy from shallow water to deep water. 相似文献
2.
建立基于四阶完全非线性Boussinesq水波方程的二维波浪传播数值模型。采用Kennedy等提出的涡粘方法模拟波浪破碎。在矩形网格上对控制方程进行离散,采用高精度的数值格式对离散方程进行数值求解。对规则波在具有三维特征地形上的传播过程进行了数值模拟,通过数值模拟结果与实验结果的对比,对所建立的波浪传播模型进行了验证。同时,为了考察非线性对波浪传播的影响,给出和上述模型具有同阶色散性、变浅作用性能但仅具有二阶完全非线性特征的波浪模型的数值结果。通过对比两个模型的数值结果以及实验数据,讨论非线性在波浪传播过程中的作用。研究结果表明,所建立的Boussinesq水波方程在深水范围内不但具有较精确的色散性和变浅作用性能,而且具有四阶完全非线性特征,适合模拟波浪在近岸水域的非线性运动。 相似文献
3.
Based on the classical Boussinesq model by Peregrine [Peregrine, D.H., 1967. Long waves on a beach. J. Fluid Mech. 27 (4), 815–827], two parameters are introduced to improve dispersion and linear shoaling characteristics. The higher order non-linear terms are added to the modified Boussinesq equations. The non-linearity of the Boussinesq model is analyzed. A parameter related to h/L0 is used to improve the quadratic transfer function in relatively deep water. Since the dispersion characteristic of the modified Boussinesq equations with two parameters is only equal to the second-order Padé expansion of the linear dispersion relation, further improvement is done by introducing a new velocity vector to replace the depth-averaged one in the modified Boussinesq equations. The dispersion characteristic of the further modified Boussinesq equations is accurate to the fourth-order Padé approximation of the linear dispersion relation. Compared to the modified Boussinesq equations, the accuracy of quadratic transfer functions is improved and the shoaling characteristic of the equations has higher accuracy from shallow water to deep water. 相似文献
4.
Bound waves and triad interactions in shallow water 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Boussinesq type equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics are derived and applied to study wave-wave interaction in shallow water. Weakly nonlinear solutions are formulated in terms of Fourier series with constant or spatially varying coefficients for two purposes: to derive higher order boundary conditions for regular and irregular wave trains and to derive evolution equations on constant or variable water depth. Wave transformation of monochromatic, bichromatic and irregular waves is studied and comparison with measurements and direct time domain solutions shows good agreement. The improvement relative to classical models from the literature is discussed. 相似文献
5.
通过改进二阶全非线性 Boussinesq 波浪方程中的色散项,得到了一组没有改变原方程的数学形式但适用于更大变化水深的新方程,其色散性能和变浅性能都比原方程有了很大改进,所适用的水深范围更大,能更好地描述从深水到近岸浅水处的波浪传播;并基于新方程建立了波浪数值模型,通过模拟波浪从浅水到深水的传播变形来验证新方程的有效性. 相似文献
6.
A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water. 相似文献
7.
1 IntroductionThe shallow water equations (SWE) are frequent-ly used as a mathematical model for water flows incoastal areas, lakes, estuaries, etc. Thus, they are animportant tool to simulate a variety of problems relat-ed to coastal engineering, environment, ecology, etc.(Bermúdez et al., 1998). On the basis of solving theone-dimensional (1D) SWE, Hu et al. (2000) have de-veloped a model capable of simulating storm wavespropagating in the coastal surf zone and overtopping asea wall. Ano… 相似文献
8.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):487-504
New equations are derived for fully nonlinear and highly dispersive water waves interacting with a rapidly varying bathymetry. The derivation is an extension of a recent high order Boussinesq type formulation valid on a mildly sloping bottom. It is based on a series expansion from a rapidly spatially varying expansion level and the resulting general velocity formulation is given as a triple-summation of terms involving high derivatives of this expansion level. For practical implementation, it is necessary to simplify and truncate this general formulation and we do this by assuming that the expansion level (but not the bathymetry) is slowly varying in space. On this basis, the general expressions are simplified to include first and second derivatives of the expansion level and up to fifth-derivatives of the velocity variables. With this new approach, the accuracy of the dispersion relation can locally deteriorate, and we provide a guideline for using this technique within acceptable accuracy bounds. Numerical results are given for the linear reflection from a plane shelf, a Gaussian shaped trench, and a symmetric trench with sloped transitions. Furthermore, we simulate the linear class I and class II Bragg scattering from an undular sea bottom. The computations are verified against measurements, theoretical solutions and numerical models from the literature. Finally, we make a detailed investigation of nonlinear class III Bragg scattering and results are given for the sub-harmonic and super-harmonic interactions with the sea bed. We provide a new explanation and a prediction of the resulting downshift/upshift of the peak reflection/transmission as a function of wave steepness. 相似文献
9.
建立具有色散性的水平二维非线性波浪方程,方程的非线性近似到了三阶。方程以波面升高和自由表面速度势表达的微分-积分型数学方程,给出方程的数值求解方法和算例,对方程积分项的处理给出了计算方法。计算结果与Boussinesq方程模型和缓坡方程模型的对应计算结果进行了对比。 相似文献
10.
The paper develops and analyzes two fully nonlinear boundary conditions that incorporate the motion of the shoreline in nonlinear time domain nearshore models. A moving shoreline essentially means the computational domain is changing with the solution of the flow. The problem is solved in two steps. The first is to establish an equation that determines the motion of the shoreline based on the local momentum balance. The second is to develop and implement into a shoreline model the capability of accommodating a changing computational domain. The two models represent two different ways of addressing this step: one is to track the position of the shoreline in a fixed grid by establishing a special shoreline point which generally is not a fixed grid point. The second is by a coordinate transformation that maps the changing domain onto a fixed domain and solves the basic equations in the mapped domain. The two shoreline conditions are tested against three known solution for nonlinear shoreline motion. Two are the 1-D solutions to the nonlinear shallow water (NSW) equations by Carrier and Greenspan [J. Fluid Mech. 4 (1958) 97], one representing the response to a transient change in the offshore water level, the other the motion due to a periodic standing wave, both on slopes steep enough to allow full reflection. The third is the 2-D horizontal (2DH) computational solution by Zelt [Coast. Eng. 15 (1991) 205] for the run-up of a solitary wave on a cusped beach. In all cases, both models are shown to behave well and give high accuracy results for suitably chosen grid and time spacings. 相似文献
11.
In the present study, a Fourier analysis is used to develop expressions for phase and group speeds for both continuous and discretized, linearized two-dimensional shallow water equations, in Cartesian coordinates. The phase and group speeds of the discrete equations, discretized using a three-point scheme of second order, five-point scheme of fourth order and a three-point compact scheme of fourth order in an Arakawa C grid, are calculated and compared with the corresponding values obtained for the continuous system. The three-point second-order scheme is found to be non-dispersive with grid resolutions greater than 30 grids per wavelength, while both the fourth-order schemes are non-dispersive with grid resolutions greater than six grids per wavelength. A von Neumann stability analysis of the two- and three-time-level temporal schemes showed that both schemes are stable. A wave deformation analysis of the two-time-level Crank–Nicolson scheme for one-dimensional and two-dimensional systems of shallow water equations shows that the scheme is non- dispersive, independent of the Courant number and grid resolution used. The phase error or the dispersion of the scheme decreases with a decrease in the time step or an increase in grid resolution. 相似文献
12.
13.
A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents. 相似文献
14.
This article concerns the calculation of nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic analysis method. This is a new approach to the calculation of wave crest distribution, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The accuracy and efficiency of this new approach for calculating the wave crest distribution are validated by comparing the results predicted using it with those predicted by using the Monte Carlo simulation (MCS) method, by using a previous Transformed Rayleigh method, by using some existing wave crest distribution formulas, and by using the measured surface elevation data at the Poseidon platform in the Japan Sea. 相似文献
15.
含强水流高阶Boussinesq水波方程 总被引：13，自引：3，他引：10
采用摄动法并利用已建立的纯波情况下高阶Boussinesq方程,建立了可以考虑强水流与波浪相互作用的高阶Boussinesq方程.水流速度与波浪群速具有相同量级,且随时间和空间的变化尺度远大于波浪周期和波长.方程色散性近似到[4/4]阶Pade展开,对浅水情况方程可以是完全非线性的,可适用于波流相互作用的强非线性问题.通过将水流存在时波长和波幅的结果与一阶斯托克斯波结果对比,讨论了具有不同近似程度的3种含波流相互作用的Boussinesq方程的适用性. 相似文献
16.
Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water 总被引：7，自引：2，他引：5
LI Ruijie WANG Houjie
Associate Professor Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China.
Graduate Student Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China. 《中国海洋工程》1999,(1)
—In this paper,a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow wat-er with the zero-vorticity equation of wave-number vector and energy conservation equation.Thenonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation(by Hedges)is compared with that of Dalrymple＇sdispersion relation.The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach,where both refraction and diffraction are significant.The computation re-sults,compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation.show that the nonlinear effect ofwave transformation in shallow water is important.And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for re-searching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water. 相似文献
17.
海啸波传播的线性和非线性特征及近海陆架效应影响的数值研究 总被引：3，自引：2，他引：1
浅水方程被广泛应用于海啸预警报业务及研究,而针对线性浅水方程与非线性浅水方程在不同海区水深地形条件下的适用范围、计算效率问题是海啸研究人员急需了解的。本文应用基于浅水方程的海啸数值预报模型就海啸波在南海、东海传播的线性、非线性特征以及陆架对其传播之影响进行了数值分析研究。海啸波在深水的传播表征为强线性特征,此时线性系统对海啸波幅的模拟计算具有较高的精度和效率,而弱的非线性特征及弱的色散特征对海啸波幅的预报影响甚微,可以忽略不计。海啸波传播至浅水大陆架后受海底坡度变化、海底粗糙度等因素影响,波动的非线性效应迅速传播、积累,与线性浅水方程计算的海啸波相比表现出较大差异,主要表现为:在南海区,水深小于100m时,海啸波首波以后的系列波动非线性特征比较明显,两者波幅差别较大,但首波波幅的区别不大,因此对于该区域在不考虑海啸爬高的情况下,应用线性系统计算得到的海啸波幅也可满足海啸预警报的要求;在东海区由于陆架影响,海啸波非线性特征明显增强,水深小于100m区域,首波及其后系列波波幅均差异较大,故在该区域必须考虑海啸波非线性作用。本文就底摩擦项对海啸波首波波幅的影响进行了数值对比分析,结果表明:底摩擦作用对海啸波首波波幅影响仅作用于小于100m水深。最后,该文通过敏感性试验,初步分析了陆架宽度及陆架边缘深度对海啸波波幅的影响,得出海啸波经陆架传播共振、变形后,海啸波幅的放大或减小与陆架的宽度及陆架边缘水深有关。 相似文献
18.
The interaction between current-free higher-order water waves with a wave-free uniform current normal to the wave crests is considered. The combined wave-current motion resulting from the interaction is assumed stable and irrotational. The velocity potential, dispersion relation, the particle kinematics and pressure distribution up to the third order in wave amplitude are developed. The conservation of mean mass, momentum and energy, together with the dispersion relation on the free surface are used to derive a set of four nonlinear equations, through which the relationship between wave-free current, current-free wave and the combined wave-current parameters is established. Numerical results for a range of current values are also presented. 相似文献
19.
Abstract In this article three main stages of tsunami wave evolution are investigated. At first, the development of disturbances from a given patched elevation of the bottom surface in an incompressible nonviscous fluid of the uniform depth is considered. Then, a tsunami wave diffraction by underwater bottom elevation or cavity is investigated. In this case the shallow water equations are already used, and it is supposed that a cylindrical wave is spread from patched water elevation over the epicentrum. Last, the tsunami propagation and transformation in a shallow water region and its run‐up on a beach are investigated on the basis of the improved shallow water theory, taking into consideration the nonlinear and dispersive terms of higher order. The proposed theory is tested in a problem of collisions of two solutions. Solutions of the first and the second problems are obtained by the method of integral Laplace's transformation with following numerical inversion of transformations. A finite difference method for a solution of the last problem is used. 相似文献
20.
The nonlinear interactions of waves with a double-peaked power spectrum have been studied in shallow water.The starting point is the prototypical equation for nonlinear unidirectional waves in shallow water,i.e.the Korteweg de Vries equation.By means of a multiple-scale technique two defocusing coupled Nonlinear Schrdinger equations are derived.It is found analytically that plane wave solutions of such a system are unstable for small perturbations,showing that the existence of a new energy exchange mechanism which can influence the behavior of ocean waves in shallow water. 相似文献