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1.
An offshore shoal or bar refracts ocean surface waves and causes wave focusing/defocusing on the adjacent beach.Wave focal patterns characterized by alongshore variations in wave height, wave angle, and breaking location induce alongshore non-uniformities of wave setup and nearshore circulation, e.g., rip currents and alongshore currents, in the surfzone. A simplified analytic model for nearshore circulation generated by focused/defocused waves on a planar beach is developed and theoretical solutions are obtained using transport stream function and perturbations in alongshore distributions of wave height and wave angle at the breaker line. The analytic model suggests that alongshore currents are strongly affected by a pair of counter-rotating vortices generated shoreward of the wave focal zone. The vortices are persistent, and their strengths depend on the amplitudes of alongshore variations in wave height and wave angle. The alongshore gradient in wave height tends to intensify the vortices while the convergence of wave angle tends to weaken the vortices. Divergent flows associated with the vortices in the surfzone are intense,strengthening alongshore currents in the downstream of the wave focal zone and weakening alongshore currents or causing flows reversal in the upstream. Alongshore currents are modulated by rip currents associated with the wave focusing/defocusing patterns. 相似文献
2.
S.C. MohapatraT. Sahoo 《Applied Ocean Research》2011,33(1):31-40
In the present paper, a hydroelastic model is developed to deal with surface gravity wave interaction with an elastic bed based on the small amplitude water wave theory and plate deflection in finite water depth. The elastic bottom bed is modelled as a thin elastic plate and is based on the Euler-Bernoulli beam equation. The wave characteristics in the presence of the elastic bed is analyzed in both the cases of deep and shallow water waves. Further, the linearized long wave equation is generalized to include bottom flexibility. A generalized expansion formula for the velocity potential is derived to deal with the boundary value problems associated with surface gravity waves having an elastic bed. The utility of the expansion formula is illustrated by demonstrating specific physical problems which will play significant role in the analysis of wave structure interaction problems. Behavior of the wave spectra are discussed in the case of closed basin having a free surface and an elastic bottom topography. 相似文献
3.
Within the framework of the linear theory of long waves, we study baroclinic free waves in a bounded basin of variable depth without vertical walls. We consider the case of two-layer stratification. The profile of the bottom of the basin and the form of the interface vary according to the parabolic law. Under these conditions, for the first three modes, we obtain analytic expressions for the frequencies of free oscillations, wave velocities, and the profiles of the free surface and interface. We analyze the dependences of frequencies, wave amplitudes, and wave velocities on the parameters of stratification and geometric characteristics of the basin. 相似文献
4.
A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents. 相似文献
5.
V. F. Ivanov 《Physical Oceanography》2001,11(3):205-219
For various stratifications and different types of bottom patterns we study the transformations of solitary perturbations
of density appearing in the depth of the sea. In the two-dimensional case, under the assumption that the average dynamic characteristics
weakly vary in time as compared with the wave characteristics, we deduce the equations for mean currents and waves taking
into account vertical and horizontal viscosity and the diffusion of density. Numerical examples show that the stratification,
bottom topography, nonlinearity, mean currents, and dissipation strongly affect both the process of splitting of a solitary
wave into wave trains and their amplitude and length. The wave currents exhibit the oscillatory (train-like) character. It
is emphasized that, in the case of propagation of solitary perturbations of density with dissipation, it is also important
to take into account the combined influence of nonlinearity, currents, bottom topography, and stratification.
Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev 相似文献
6.
The effect of ambient currents on nearshore nonlinear wave–wave energy transfer in random waves is studied with the use of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model. We focus on the phenomenon of wave recurrence as a classical nonlinear phenomenon whose characteristics are well established for systems truncated to small numbers of frequency modes. The model used for this study is first extended to enhance accuracy; comparisons of permanent form solutions to analytical forms confirm the model accuracy. Application of the model to a highly truncated system confirmed the model’s consistency with published results for both positive (following) and negative (adverse) currents. Propagation of random wave spectra over a flat bottom was performed with the model, with the intent of determining the prevalence of recurrence between the spectral peak and its harmonics. For spectra of moderate Ursell number, it was found that positive currents extended the length scale of recurrence relative to the case with no currents; conversely, negative currents reduced the recurrence lengths. However, beyond a propagation distance of ≈40 wavelengths of the spectral peak, recurrence becomes almost completely damped as the spectra becomes broad and the spectral energies equilibrate. For spectra of high Ursell number, in contrast, recurrence is almost immediately damped, suggesting that the nonlinearity is sufficient to allow immediate spectral broadening and equilibration and overwhelming any preferential interactions among the spectral peak and its harmonics, regardless of current magnitude or direction. 相似文献
7.
Using the recently developed expansion formulae for wave structure interaction problems, the scattering of surface water waves by a semi-infinite floating membrane due to abrupt change in bottom topography is analyzed. Both the cases of finite and infinite steps are analyzed. In the present paper, the analysis is based on the linearized theory of water waves and small amplitude membrane response. Combining the linearized kinematic and dynamic surface conditions on the water surface with the dynamic pressure condition on the membrane, a third order differential equation is derived to describe the membrane covered free surface condition. General wave energy relation for wave scattering by floating horizontal membrane is derived by the application of law of conservation of energy flux and alternately by the direct application of Green's second identity. In the floating membrane covered region, the wave energy density is a combination of the kinetic and potential energy density due to the surface gravity waves, and the surface energy density which is due to the existence of the floating membrane on the free surface. Gravity wave transformations due to an abrupt change in bottom topography in the presence of a floating membrane in finite water depth are analyzed based on shallow water approximation. Numerical results are computed and analyzed to understand the wave transformation due to the floating membrane when there is an abrupt change in topography in different cases. 相似文献
8.
We generalize the problem of evaluation of currents caused by the action of breeze winds to the three-dimensional case. In
the “solid-lid” approximation, the problem is reduced to the numerical solution of a two-dimensional equation for the integral
current function (with complex-valued coefficients) with subsequent evaluation of the components of current velocity according
to analytic formulas. The breeze is specified as acting in a narrow coastal strip in the form of a zonal wind. The three-dimensional
structure and the variations of currents near the west boundary of the Kerch Strait as functions of time are studied in detail. 相似文献
9.
A two-dimensional coastal ocean model based on unstructured C-grid is built, in which the momentum equation is discretized on the faces of each cell, and the continuity equation is discretized on the cell. The model is discretized by semi-implicit finite volume method, in that the free surface is semi-implicit and the bottom friction is implicit, thereby removing stability limitations associated with the surface gravity wave and friction. The remaining terms in the momentum equations are discretized explicitly by integral finite volume method and second-order Adams-Bashforth method. Tidal flow in the polar quadrant with known analytic solution is employed to test the proposed model. Finally, the performance of the present model to simulate tidal flow in a geometrically complex domain is examined by simulation of tidal currents in the Pearl River Estuary. 相似文献
10.
离岸流是近岸流的重要组成部分,当波浪受到特殊海滩地形的影响,会形成一股沿着离岸方向运动的高速水流,能够迅速将人带离海岸,对海滨安全造成威胁。为了深入探究离岸流的形成机理及水动力学特性,本文基于二阶Stokes波浪理论,采用了更为光滑的变截面沙坝模型,通过流体体积法捕捉自由液面,对离岸流进行三维数值模拟探究。本文重点分析了离岸流产生时流场的瞬时速度、时均速度、压强等不同参量的分布规律,结果显示在沙坝和海岸线之间,有一对方向相反的水循环体系;对比不同流层离岸流的速度,了解到波浪与离岸流的耦合作用;并探究了入射波波高对离岸流强度及分布区域的影响,深化了对离岸流水动力学过程的认识。 相似文献
11.
This paper discusses the use of Hermite polynomial in the derivation of statistical properties of waves, wave field kinematics and dynamics and wave forces under various conditions. Specifically, covariance functions and approximate spectra are obtained for (1) wave force on vertical cylinder according to Morison's formula, (2) horizontal fluid particle velocity considering the effects of free surface fluctuations, and (3) elevation of breaking waves. 相似文献
12.
Recent field measurements on beaches of different slopes have established that wave motion at periods substantially longer than the incident waves dominates the velocity field close to the shore. Analysis of a number of extensive data sets shows that much of this long wave motion is in the form of progessive edge waves, though forced wave motion, standing edge waves and free waves propagating away from the shore may also contribute to the energy.Theoretically, the drift velocities in bottom boundary layers due to edge waves show spatial patterns of convergence and divergence which may move sediment to form either regular crescentic or cuspate features when only one edge wave mode dominates, or a bewildering array of bars, bumps and holes when several phase-locked modes exist together.Convincing field demonstration of the link between nearshore topography and edge waves only exists for the special case of small-scale beach cusps on steep beaches, formed by edge waves at the subharmonic (twice the period) of the incident waves. At longer periods the link is proving more difficult to establish, due to the longer time-scales of topographic changes, the interaction between pre-existing topography and the water motion, and the observation of broad-banded edge wave motion which is not readily linked to topography with a well-defined scale.These ideas are, however, central to the study of nearshore processes, as most of the plausible alternate hypotheses do not seem to lead to quantitative predictions. Clearly, further theoretical and observational work is essential. 相似文献
13.
Bragg reflection in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank based on boundary integral equation method
We investigated the phenomenon of Bragg reflection of submerged structures in a 2D fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) based on the boundary integral equation method (BIEM). This model was validated by comparing not only the free surface elevations with that of the analytic solution of Stokes’ second-order wave theory, but also the reflection coefficients of submerged bars with that from other sources. The results of the present model show that the free surface nonlinear effect on the reflection coefficient of the primary resonance reduces significantly for all of the submerged bars considered. Finally, a case study is presented to demonstrate the reflecting capacity and overall performance of various submerged bars. Results indicate that sinusoidal bar has the maximum reflection capacity at the primary resonance, but the trapezoidal submerged bar is suggested as the better option for the practical convenience of coastal underwater construction. 相似文献
14.
通过波浪水槽实验,对海平面变化造成的波浪动力因素改变引起的沙质岸滩形态响应开展机理性研究。实验采用1∶10单一沙质斜坡概化岸滩,利用3种不同实验水深模拟海平面变化,考虑椭圆余弦波、非规则波、规则波和孤立波4种类型波浪作用。实验对波浪在斜坡上的传播变形、破碎、上爬和回落过程的波高及波浪作用后的岸滩地形进行了测量。实验结果表明,椭圆余弦波、规则波和非规则波作用下,平衡岸滩呈现出滩肩形态,孤立波作用下则呈沙坝形态。海平面上升造成波浪动力增强,沙质岸滩平衡剖面形状基本保持不变向岸平移,槽谷、滩肩、沙坝位置以及岸线蚀退距离,均呈现出良好规律性。 相似文献
15.
We have examined wind-induced circulation in the Sea of Okhotsk using a barotropic model that contains realistic topography
with a resolution of 9.25 km. The monthly wind stress field calculated from daily European Centre for Medium-Range Weather
Forecasting (ECMWF) Re-Analysis data is used as the forcing, and the integration is carried out for 20 days until the circulation
attains an almost steady state. In the case of November (a representative for the winter season from October to March), southward
currents of velocity 0.1–0.3 m s−1 occur along the bottom contours off the east of Sakhalin Island. The currents are mostly confined to the shelf (shallower
than 200 m) and extend as far south as the Hokkaido coast. In the July case (a representative for the summer season from April
to September), significant currents do not occur, even in the shallow shelves. The simulated southward current over the east
Sakhalin shelf appears to correspond to the near-shore branch of the East Sakhalin Current (ESC), which was observed with
the surface drifters. These seasonal variations simulated in our experiments are consistent with the observations of the ESC.
Dynamically, the simulated ESC is interpreted as the arrested topographic wave (ATW), which is the coastally trapped flow
driven by steady alongshore wind stress. The volume transport of the simulated ESC over the shelf reaches about 1.0 Sv (1
Sv = 106 m3s−1) in the winter season, which is determined by the integrated onshore Ekman transport in the direction from which shelf waves
propagate.
This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
16.
A model for the downward transfer of wind momentum is derived for growing waves. It is shown that waves, which grow due to an uneven pressure distribution on the water surface or a wave-coherent surface shear stress have horizontal velocities out of phase with the surface elevation. Further, if the waves grow in the x-direction, while the motion is perhaps time-periodic at any fixed point, the Reynolds stresses associated with the organized motion are positive. This is in agreement with several field and laboratory measurements which were previously unexplained, and the new theory successfully links measured wave growth rates and measured sub-surface Reynolds stresses. Wave coherent air pressure (and/or surface shear stress) is shown to change the speed of wave propagation as well as inducing growth or decay. From air pressure variations that are in phase with the surface elevation, the influence on the waves is simply a phase speed increase. For pressure variations out of phase with surface elevation, both growth (or decay) and phase speed changes occur. The theory is initially developed for long waves, after which the velocity potential and dispersion relation for linear waves in arbitrary depth are given. The model enables a sounder model for the transfer to storm surges or currents of momentum from breaking waves in that it does not rely entirely on ad-hoc turbulent diffusion. Future models of atmosphere-ocean exchanges should also acknowledge that momentum is transferred partly by the organized wave motion, while other species, like heat and gasses, may rely totally on turbulent diffusion. The fact that growing wind waves do in fact not generally obey the dispersion relation for free waves may need to be considered in future wind wave development models. 相似文献
17.
A three-dimensional, nonlinear, primitive equation ocean general circulation model is used to study the response of the Gulf of Mexico to Hurricane Frederic. The model has free surface dynamics and a second order turbulence closure scheme for the mixed layer. Realistic coastlines, bottom topography and open boundary conditions are used in the study. The model has a vertical sigma coordinate with 18 levels, and a horizontal resolution of 0.2°×0.2° for the entire Gulf. The study focuses on hurricane generated sea level, current, and coastally trapped wave (CTW) responses of the Gulf. Time series of sea levels from U.S. coastal tide gauge stations and the numerical model simulation of sea levels and currents on the shelf are used to study sea level, current and CTW responses. Both model sea levels and observations from tide gauge stations show a westward progression of the surge as a CTW response. The results of the study of sea levels and currents indicate that CTW propagate to the west with phase speeds of 7–10 m s–1. There is also a strong nonlinear interaction between the Loop Current and hurricane induced currents. The surface current attains a maximum of 200 cm s–1 in the eastern Gulf. The model surface elevation at several locations is compared with tide gauge data. The current meter data at three moorings are also compared with the model currents. The model simulations show good agreement with observed data for the hurricane induced coastally trapped wave, storm surge, and current distribution in the Gulf. 相似文献
18.
In this article, tsunamis represented as solitary waves was simulated using the fully nonlinear free surface waves based on Finite Element method developed by Sriram et al. (2006). The split up of solitary wave while it propagates over the uneven bottom topography is successfully established. Wave transmission and reflection over a vertical step introduced in the bottom topography is in good agreement with the experimental results from Seabra-Santos et al. (1987). The wave transformation over a continental shelf with different smooth slopes reveals that the solitary wave reflection increases while the continental slope varies from flat to steep. The interaction of the solitary wave with a vertical wall for different wave steepness has been analysed. The reflected shape of the profile is in good agreement with the observation made by Fenton and Rienecker (1982) and an increase in wave celerity is observed. 相似文献
19.
20.
楔形体在波浪中自由入水的数值模拟 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
物体入水时波浪的影响不可忽略,基于流体力学模型采用VOF法,并利用自定义函数,模拟了楔形体的自由入水过程;同时结合推波板原理及海绵层消波理论实现了数值水槽的造消波,完成了波浪中楔形体自由入水的模拟,计算了楔形体入水时所受的水作用力、自由液面变化及物面压强分布等,研究了不同波高、周期以及在波浪不同位置入水时对楔形体的影响。结果表明:本文建立的数值模型可很好地模拟楔形体入水造成的射流及空泡的形成发展过程,波浪对楔形体入水的影响主要由波浪内部流场变化及表面波形决定,在波浪不同位置处入水对楔形体受力及入水形态均有较大影响。 相似文献