共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 328 毫秒
1.
Sand waves occur in eastern Long Island Sound with heights up to 4 m and lengths to 100 m. The waves do not form if either more than 10% mud or 12% coarse sand is present in the sediment. Mud suppresses wave formation by increasing the cohesion of the sediment. Sand-wave shape is independent of the water depth, d, provided the sand-wave height, H, is smaller than 0.86 d1.19. Both symmetric and asymmetric wave forms are present. Observation of the migration of sand waves by repeated bathymetric surveys indicates a net sand flux greater than 0.01 cm3 cm?1 sec?1 in the direction faced by the steep slopes of the waves (i.e. westward, into the Sound). Under this sand flux, waves more than 30 cm high will not be measurably altered by a reversal of the semidiurnal tidal current. 相似文献
2.
Ephemeral sand waves in the hurricane surf zone 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Andrew B. Kennedy K. Clint Slatton Tian-Jian Hsu Michael J. Starek Kittipat Kampa 《Marine Geology》2008,250(3-4):276-280
Airborne bathymetric LIDAR observations along the Florida panhandle after Hurricane Dennis (2005) show the first unequivocal observations of surf-zone sand wave trains.
These are found in depths of 5m along the trough of the hurricane bar, where hindcasts show strong longshore currents only during severe storms. The waves extend over tens of kilometers of coast after Dennis but are absent from the same area in four other datasets. Observed wavelength to water depth ratios are comparable to river dunes and tidal sand waves but height to depth ratios are smaller, with the largest wave heights around 0.1 times the water depth. The sand wave generation mechanism is hypothesized to be from wind-and-wave-induced longshore currents, which were hindcast to be large during Dennis, with destruction from water wave orbital velocities. 相似文献
3.
Depth of activation on a mixed sediment beach 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The relationship between wave height and depth of sediment activation is evaluated on an estuarine beach to determine whether activation depth is less in pebbles than sand. Rods with washers were used to monitor three excavated beach plots filled with (1) pebbles with mean grain size of 11.5 mm; (2) sand and granules; and (3) sand, granules and pebbles. Plots were monitored for 26 events over 27 days. Significant wave heights ranged from 0.18 to 0.40 m and activation depths from 0.02 to 0.12 m. Activation depths in the pebble plot were less than the other two plots when waves reworked sediment not activated during previous tidal cycles. Proportionality coefficients for activation depth to wave height, when net change was < 0.02 m, were 0.24 in the pebble plot and 0.30–0.31 in the other plots when experimental fill sediments remained and 0.22 to 0.23 in all three plots over the entire monitoring period, which included activation of newly deposited native sediment. Results suggest that for similar wave heights, activation depths in pebbles is lower than in sand, granules and pebbles or sand and granules, but once waves have reworked the sediment there is little difference in activation depths. 相似文献
4.
Arnold H. Bouma Monty A. Hampton Robert C. Orlando 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2013,31(1-4):291-308
Abstract Lower Cook Inlet in Alaska has high‐ tidal currents that average 3–4 knots and normally reach a peak of 6–8 knots. The bottom has an average depth of about 60–70 m in the central part of the inlet that deepens toward the south. Several types of bedforms, such as sand waves, dunes, ripples, sand ribbons, and lag deposits form a microtopography on the otherwise smooth seafloor. Each bedform type covers a small field, normally a few hundred to a few thousand meters wide, and usually several kilometers long parallel to the tidal flow. High‐resolution seismic systems, side‐scan sonar and bottom television were used to study these bedforms. Large sand waves with wavelengths over 300 m and wave heights up to 10 m were observed. Fields of ebb‐oriented or flood‐oriented asymmetric bedforms commonly grade into more symmetric shapes. Several orders of smaller sand waves and dunes cover the flanks of the very large bedforms. The crest directions of both size groups are normally parallel, but deviations of up to 90° have been observed; local deviations may occur where smaller forms approach the crests of the larger sand waves. Bottom television observations demonstrated active bedload transport in a northerly direction on crests and midflanks of southward asymmetric large sand waves, but not in their troughs. Movement of bedload occurs in the form of small ripples. Although the asymmetry of the large bedforms suggests that migration has taken place in the ebb or flood directions, the very low surface angles (2.5°‐8°) of these bedforms do not indicate regular movements. The large bedforms are probably relict features, or they migrate only under severe conditions, whereas active sand transport by ripples and smaller sand waves and dunes moves bedload back and forth with the tides. An understanding of such movements is essential for determining design criteria for offshore installations and in benthic‐faunal studies. 相似文献
5.
An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves). 相似文献
6.
海南东方岸外海底沙波活动性研究 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
对海南东方岸外 2 0～ 50 m水深海底沙波形成的动力环境、形态特征、剖面结构及其分布特征进行了描述和分析。根据环境参数 ,对其活动性进行了计算 ,并将计算结果与发育环境相类似的 Surtainville沙波进行了类比。认为研究区沙波主要系在潮流作用下形成。研究区沙波迁移速率为每年数米。东区 (水深 2 0～ 40 m)是沙波发育的主体 ,受落潮流作用 ,沙波自北向南迁移 ;西区 (水深 36～ 52 m)沙波受涨潮流控制自南向北迁移 ;中区为过渡区 ,沙波相对稳定 相似文献
7.
渤海湾风浪场的数值模拟 总被引：14，自引：1，他引：13
采用SWAN模型对渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下的波浪场进行了模拟,并利用黄骅港附近波浪统计资料对模拟结果进行了验证。结果表明：SWAN模型较好地模拟了渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下风浪成长和传播过程。此外,还应用ADCIRC潮流模型,初步探讨了潮流对波浪要素的影响：(1)无流存在时,波高的成长和波周期的变化是一条光滑的曲线,但当有流加入时,由于其流速和水位在一个潮周期内随时间的变化足不均匀的,其对波浪成长产生影响,使波高和周期呈不规则变化;(2)波浪成长初期,流对波高增长的影响并不明显,但当波高增大到一定程度时,流的存在对波高的影响是很明显的。 相似文献
8.
利用2014–2017年在台湾海峡西部采集的多波束、单道地震剖面、沉积物粒度样品及海流监测资料,在厦门湾近岸陆架区识别出一系列海底沙波,并对沙波的形态特征、分布规律和沉积物组成特征进行分析,探讨水动力条件及其对沙波发育的影响.结果表明沙波发育区水深一般为10～60 m,地形较平缓开阔,坡度一般为0°～1°;平面上沙波区... 相似文献
9.
西朝鲜湾二维潮流泥沙数值模拟与砂矿成矿分析 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
黄海西朝鲜湾是潮流流速特别高、潮流沙脊群明显发育的水动力沉积环境区,具有有利的砂矿成矿条件。为了分析其成矿特征,我们采用波浪潮流共同作用下潮流泥沙数值模拟的计算方法,模拟各级波浪下潮流、海底冲淤状态和全输沙量过程,由此分析按形成时代和主要分选控制因素划定的砂矿成因型和漂沙分选方式。本区砂矿属于潮流波浪控制的现代滨海砂矿,砂矿由潮流波浪掀沙、潮流输沙、风暴浪混沙进行平面及垂直分选形成,研究区类似一个巨型砂矿分选机,分选强度有利于砂矿成矿的地区大多为0～20m海域,矿层延伸到风暴浪最大冲刷范围之外。 相似文献
10.
基于量纲分析理论进行水槽试验,研究了潮流以及单向流作用下海底沙波的形成和发展过程。通过分析
海床地形数据,对海底沙波的特征尺度和发展过程进行定量描述,得出了潮流流速、周期、水深以及叠加单向流等因素对沙波特征尺度的影响。结果表明,潮流作用产生的海底地貌由大尺度的沙波和小尺度的沙纹共同组成,大尺度沙波在地貌形态塑造中占主导地位。从平坦海床开始,沙波波高和波长随水流作用逐渐增大,增长速度越来越慢,最终达到动态平衡。沙波特征波高和特征波长随流速和水深增大而增大,同时随往复流周期的增大而增大,并不断趋近于单向水流的情况。进一步对小尺度的沙纹地貌进行分析,得出了沙纹特征尺度随水流条件的变化规律。 相似文献
11.
围填海工程对渤海湾风浪场的影响 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
为了深入了解围填海工程对波浪场特别是风浪场的影响,针对10 a 围填海工程对渤海湾地形岸线的改变,将 SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)海浪数值模式应用到渤海湾,讨论了人类大工程对渤海湾风浪场的影响.采用欧洲气象中心每天4次的风场资料作为驱动,模拟渤海湾2000年和2010年的风浪场,着重分析岸线变化显著的3个港口工程(曹妃甸、天津港和黄骅港)附近海域的波浪要素变化.研究结果表明,工程建筑物存在后,有效波高呈减小趋势,港池和潮汐通道内的有效波高减小幅度较大.港口地理位置和海底地形也与岸线变化共同影响着港口附近海域的波浪场分布.围填海工程对波浪有效波高及周期影响的程度不大,有效波高减小值在0.2 m 以下,周期几乎不变. 相似文献
12.
海南岛西部岸外沙波的高分辨率形态特征 总被引：13，自引：1，他引：12
利用SIMRAD-EM3000多波束探测系统和DGPS定位系统,对海南岛东方岸外的沙波沙脊区进行了高精度探测,分析结果表明:从海岸到陆架底形具有明显的分带性,依次出现弱侵蚀底形段、沙波沙脊底形段和平坦底形段。沙波仅发育于沙波沙脊段,介于水深20~50 m之间,沙波形态有二维与三维两种,沙波波高多为0.7~2.5 m,波长20~70 m,沙波指数(L/H)为20~60,对称指数为1~3;沙波沙脊区沉积物的搬运方向有明显的规律性,在沙脊的西侧,沉积物主要向北搬运;在沙脊的东侧,沉积物主要向南搬运;沙波的形成和发育主要受潮流场控制,热带风暴对其有改造作用。 相似文献
13.
海滩冲流带高频振动地形动力过程分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
在粤东汕尾后江湾海滩冲流带布设2条观测剖面,共计6个观测点,对滩面冲流带在约一个潮周期内的高频振动进行了观测,取得采样频率分别为1min/次和6min/次的滩面数据各1组.结合同步观测的碎波带波浪潮汐数据,分析探讨了海滩高频振动特征.分析认为在涌浪条件下,滩面高频振动的日内变化主要受到潮位变化过程的控制,涨潮堆积,落潮侵蚀.利用交叉谱分析的结果表明滩面高程变化滞后于潮位变化.滩面下部比上部振动幅度大,变化复杂,滩角脊部比凹部活跃.波群对滩面高频振动有显著影响,特别是波高大于有效波高的波群.滩面高频振动没有表现出明显的泥沙逐渐向陆地堆积过程,有一定的振动周期. 相似文献
14.
Quantification of nearshore morphology based on video imaging 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Patricia Soupy Alexander 《Marine Geology》2004,208(1):101-111
The Argus network is a series of video cameras with aerial views of beaches around the world. Intensity contrasts in time exposure images reveal areas of preferential breaking, which are closely tied to underlying bed morphology. This relationship was further investigated, including the effect of tidal elevation and wave height on the presence of wave breaking and its cross-shore position over sand bars. Computerized methods of objectively extracting shoreline and sand bar locations were developed, allowing the vast quantity of data generated by Argus to be more effectively examined. Once features were identified in the images, daily alongshore mean values were taken to create time series of shoreline and sand bar location, which were analyzed for annual cycles and cross-correlated with wave data to investigate environmental forcing and response.These data extraction techniques were applied to images from four of the Argus camera sites. A relationship between wave height and shoreline location was found in which increased wave heights resulted in more landward shoreline positions; given the short lag times over which this correlation was significant, and that the strong annual signal in wave height was not replicated in the shoreline time series, it is likely that this relationship is a result of set-up during periods of large waves. Wave height was also found to have an effect on sand bar location, whereby an increase in wave height resulted in offshore bar migration. This correlation was significant over much longer time lags than the relationship between wave height and shoreline location, and a strong annual signal was found in the location of almost all observed bars, indicating that the sand bars are migrating with changes in wave height. In the case of the site with multiple sand bars, the offshore bars responded more significantly to changes in wave height, whereas the innermost bar seemed to be shielded from incident wave energy by breaking over the other bars. A relationship was also found between a site's mean wave height and inner sand bar location; sites with the highest wave heights tended to have sand bars farther from shore than those with relatively low wave heights. 相似文献
15.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(2):115-142
The Arcachon Lagoon on the French Atlantic coast is a triangular shaped lagoon of 20 km on a side connected to the ocean by a 3-km wide inlet between the mainland and an elongated sand spit. This tidal inlet exhibits a particularly active morphology due to locally strong tidal currents and rough wave conditions. During the past 300 years, minimum and maximum spatial extents of the Cap Ferret sand spit have varied by 8 km while one or two channels have alternately allowed circulation between the lagoon and the ocean. These impressive morphological changes have never prevented regular flushing of the lagoon, eventhough the spit came as close as 300 m from the coast during the 18th century. According to Bruun's concept of tidal inlet stability [Theory and Engineering (1978), 510 pp.], the balance between longshore littoral transport and the tidal prism ensures the perpetuity of the inlet.Process modeling was believed to give better insight into the respective roles of tides and waves in driving the long-term morphological changes of the inlet. A two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was therefore developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. The use of process models at a scale of decades requires a schematization of the input conditions. We defined representative mean annual wave and tide conditions with respect to sediment transport, i.e. conditions that induce the same annual transport as measured in the field. Driven by these representative conditions, simulations run from the 1993 bathymetry show that the tide is responsible for the opening of a new channel at the extremity of the sand spit (where tidal currents are the strongest), while waves induce a littoral transport responsible for the longshore drift of sand bodies across the inlet. One particular simulation consisted in running the model from a hypothetical initial topography where the channels are filled with sand and the entire inlet is set to a constant depth (3 m). The results show the reproduction of a channel and bar system comparable to historical observations, which supports the idea that the lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades. 相似文献
16.
海底沙波在全球广泛分布、成因复杂,但往往多种尺度的沙波叠加在一起形成复杂的沙波地貌体系,导致难以进行量化研究。针对该问题,本文提出一种实用的傅里叶分析方法,设计了巴特沃斯滤波器,将水深数据变换到频率域,进而将复杂沙波地貌分解成不同频率的单一类型沙波。并以台湾浅滩复杂的沙波地貌体系为例进行了分析研究,分解量化出3种空间尺度的沙波:巨型沙波(波长>100 m,波高>5 m)、中型沙波(波长5～100 m,波高0.4～5 m)和沙波纹(波长<5 m,波高<0.4 m)。本文提出的海底沙波地貌量化分析方法,有助于研究不同尺度海底沙波的成因与机理,对沙波区海洋工程的安全评估也具有实用价值。 相似文献
17.
胶州湾湾口海底沙波地形地貌特征及其活动性研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用多波束、侧扫声纳以及单道地震资料对胶州湾湾口潮流作用下形成的典型海底沙波地貌的平面形态、剖面特征和分布特点进行了分析研究。根据实测的水文资料计算了不同潮流流速下沙波的瞬时移动速度,推测了直脊型沙波和新月型沙波的形成]化过程:区内新月型沙波在西向优势流的作用下大约以50m/a的速度向西迁移,直脊型沙波则在两端方向不一致的优势流长期作用下,发生逆时针旋转,同时在往复流的作用下以一个平衡位置左右摆动;就地貌形态而言,新月型沙波是不稳定的,直脊型沙波达到相对平衡状态。 相似文献
18.
海南岛西南海底沙波活动及底床冲淤变化 总被引：17，自引：0，他引：17
为了研究沙波迁移对底床稳定性的影响,通过对比分析2004—2006年连续3年的多波束海底地貌扫描数据,得出研究区域海底沙波的波长为5.8~91.8 m,波高0.1~4.3 m,陡峭度0.013~0.12,对称指数0.32~6.52。沙波的移动速率最大48.8 m/a,移动方向在研究区域西部为SE向,中部呈往复迁移,东部为NW向;沙波不同部位的迁移速率不同,一般的沙波尾翼迁移速率较大;同一组沙波存在反向扭转迁移的现象,反向扭转迁移的轴线位于研究区域沙脊的脊线附近,这种反向迁移不仅与底层流作用有关,还与海底地形关系密切;西部海底底床处于侵蚀状态,局部最大侵蚀量可达1.3 m,东部处于堆积状态,最大堆积量达2.8 m。 相似文献
19.
为研究内孤立波与沙波的相互作用,本文对基于OpenFOAM的SedWaveFoam求解器进行改进,建立了内孤立波-泥沙运动欧拉两相流模型。在利用试验资料对模型进行验证的基础上,在南海北部典型代表性条件下,模拟分析了500 m水深位置沙波床面上内孤立波作用下的水动力变化和泥沙运动。结果表明,内孤立波逐渐离开沙波时,海底沙波背流面处出现与内孤立波背景流速反向的流速,在内孤立波导致的流场作用下,沙波床面上的泥沙悬起并运动到床面以上的水体中。振幅100 m的内孤立波可以导致床面以上14 m高的位置处出现约0.07 kg/m3的悬沙浓度。 相似文献
20.
Probability distribution of wave heights attenuated by salt marsh vegetation during tropical cyclone
Zero-crossing wave heights, obtained from the field measurement of random waves propagating through salt marsh vegetation (Spartina alterniflora) during a tropical storm, were analyzed to examine their probability distribution. Wave data (significant wave heights up to 0.4 m in 0.8 m depth) were collected over a two-day period along a 28 m transect using three pressure transducers sampling at 10 Hz. Wave height distribution was observed to deviate from the Rayleigh distribution. The observed probability densities of the larger wave heights were reduced significantly by vegetation, producing wave heights lower than those predicted by the Rayleigh distribution. Assuming Rayleigh distributed wave heights for the incident waves to the vegetation patch, existing vegetation-induced wave attenuation formulations are used to derive a special form of two-parameter Weibull distribution for wave heights in the inundated wetland. The scale parameter of the distribution is theoretically shown to be a function of the shape parameter, which agrees with the measurements, effectively reducing the proposed distribution to a one-parameter type. The derived distribution depends on the local parameters only and fits well to the observed distribution of wave heights attenuated by vegetation. Empirical relationships are developed to estimate the shape parameter from the local wave parameters. 相似文献