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Chung-RenCHOU Teng-WeiLIN Ruey-SyanSHIH JohnZ.YIM 《中国海洋工程》2005,19(1):37-48
Measurements of wave heights with image sequences from a Charged Coupled Device(CCD) camera were made. Sinusoidal, as well as unidirectional and directional, waves were used for the experiments. A transfer function was obtained by calibration of the magnitudes of the gray values of the images against the results of wave gauge measurements for directional waves. With this transfer function, wave heights for regular waves were deduced. It is shown that the average relative errors are smaller than 16% for both unidirectional and directional waves. 相似文献
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从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。 相似文献
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This paper is aimed at the whole Bohai Sea,as the complement and improvement of wave characteristics and extreme parameters.Wave fields were simulated in the Bohai Sea by using wave model SWAN from 1985 to 2004.The input data based on the hindcast of high-resolution wind fields from RAMS and water level fields from POM,which have been tested and verified well.Comparisons of significant wave heights between simulation and station observations show a good agreement in general.By statistical analysis,the wave characteristics such as significant wave heights, dominant wave directions and their seasonal variations are discussed.In addition,main wave extreme parameters and directional extreme values particularly for 100-year return period are investigated. 相似文献
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船用X波段雷达被广泛应用于海洋表面波观测和研究。本文给出了一种新的从船用X波段雷达图像中确定主波传播方向的方法。X波段雷达图像中的海浪信号具有明显的尺度性和方向性。同时，curvelet变换作为一种同时具备尺度分辨率和方向分辨率的数学变换，能够对一幅雷达图像在不同尺度、不同方向和不同位置上进行分析。对一幅雷达图像进行curvelet分解并获得curvelet系数后，波浪信号主要集中在某些特定尺度和方向的curvelet系数中，从而我们可以获得带有 方向模糊的波传播方向。进而，通过计算几幅连续采集图像的互相关系数可以消除 方向模糊。同步观测的雷达图像和浮标数据证明了该方法的有效性。 相似文献
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风浪方向分布模式的比较 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
本文对目前常用的几种风浪方向分布模式进行了分析对比，进而根据由浪高仪阵列和ＥＮＤＥＣＯ９５６测波浮标在我国各海区测得的风浪方向谱，从波能方向分布、方向累积分布、方向分布的峰值和标准差四个方面，与光易恒、Ｈａｓｓｅｌｍａｎｎ和Ｄｏｎｅｌａｎ等分别由观测得到的经验方向分布以及文圣常等由解析方法得到的风浪方向谱进行了比较，结果表明：Ｄｏｎｅｌａｎ分布与实测结果比较一致，文圣常谱也较接近。此外，笔者在渤海由仪器阵列实测方向谱拟合得到的方向分布（改进的光易模式）与各地实测资料也比较符合。 相似文献
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Yu Yuxiu Liu Shuxue Prof 《中国海洋工程》1992,(2)
- Measuring multi-directional waves with the wave gauge array is one of the fundamental and easily realised methods. In this paper, the wave gauge array is described and the effects of the gauge spacing, the array orientations, etc. of the three array arrangements, i. e., linear array, T-type array and pentagon array, on the resolution of the directional spreading of waves, are investigated experimentally. This study can be used as a reference in the experimental study and the field measurement of directional waves. 相似文献
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1 .Ｉｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎ1ＴｈｉｓｓｔｕｄｙｗａｓｓｕｐｐｏｒｔｅｄｂｙＮＳＣｉｎＴａｉｗａｎｕｎｄｅｒｔｈｅｐｒｏｊｅｃｔＮｏ .ＮＳＣ 89 2 611 Ｅ 0 0 6 0 4 0 . Ｃｏｒｒｅｓｐｏｎｄｉｎｇａｕｔｈｏｒ.Ｅ ｍａｉｌ:ｄｊｄｏｏｎｇ @ｐｃｈｏｍｅ .ｃｏｍ .ｔｗ Ｏｃｅａｎｗａｖｅｓ ,ｗｈｉｃｈａｒｅｅｘｔｒｅｍｅｌｙｒａｎｄｏｍ ,ａｒｅｄｉｒｅｃｔｌｙａｎｄｉｎｄｉｒｅｃｔｌｙｄｅｐｅｎｄｅｎｔｏｎｍｅｔｅｏｒｏｌｏｇｉ ｃａｌ,ｈｙｄｒｏｌｏｇｉｃａｌ,ｏｃｅａｎｏｇｒａｐｈｉｃａｎｄｔｏｐｏｇ… 相似文献
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Nearshore directional wave measurements by surface-following buoy and acoustic Doppler current profiler 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Directional energy spectra of nearshore surface waves were measured for a 3-year period (2004–2007) at a site with mean depth 14 m and mean tidal range 2.1 m. Triaxys surface-following wave buoys reported hourly directional wave energy spectra and wave parameters near the offshore end of the Savannah River Entrance Channel, Georgia, USA. An acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) was located beside the wave buoy for 3 months. Directional and non-directional surface wave energy spectra and the corresponding bulk wave parameters (height, period, and direction) are compared for the two systems. Most parameters derived from the spectra agree closely; the most significant differences were found at the upper and lower frequency measurement limits, where signal-to-noise ratios were lower. The wave buoy consistently reports a small amount of energy below 0.05 Hz that does not appear in the ADCP-derived spectra and does not appear to be related to the mooring system. This leads to larger mean and peak periods reported by the buoy. All directional spectra were computed using the Maximum Entropy Method for both instruments, but the buoy, with spectra derived from six independent time series, provides lower directional resolving power than the ADCP, which utilizes twelve time series. Both systems gave similar results defining mean and peak wave directions, with the primary difference being that the ADCP indicates energy to be more tightly concentrated around the peak direction. 相似文献
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The observation and estimation of directional spectra of sea waves is one of the essential subjects of study of oceanic dynamics. On the basis of the irregular linear wave theory, estimation methods for i/UV, PUV and VV directional wave spectra are derived. By using ij and PUV data measured in-situ, directional wave spectra are estimated, meanwhile the virtues and defects of various spectra are comparied. This method provide a basis for the observations of sea waves. 相似文献
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Reasonably understanding of the long-term wave characteristics is very crucial for the ocean engineering. A feedforward neural network is operated for interpolating ERA5 wave reanalysis in this study, which embodies a detailed record from 1950 onwards. The spatiotemporal variability of wave parameters in the Bohai Sea, especially the significant wave height (SWH), is presented in terms of combined wave, wind wave and swell by employing the 71 years (1950–2020) of interpolated ERA5 reanalysis. Annual mean SWH decreases at ?0.12 cm/a estimated by Theil-Sen estimator and 95th percentile SWH reflecting serve sea states decreases at ?0.20 cm/a. Inter-seasonal analysis shows SWH of wind wave has steeper decreasing trend with higher slopes than that of swell, especially in summer and winter, showing the major decrease may attribute to the weakening of monsoon. The inner Bohai Sea reveals a general decreasing trend while the intersection connecting with the Yellow Sea has the lower significance derived by Mann-Kendall test. Meanwhile, 95th percentile SWH decreases at a higher rate while with a lower significance in comparison with the mean state. The frequencies of mean wave directions in sub-sector are statistically calculated to find the seasonal prevailing directions. Generally, the dominant directions in summer and winter are south and north. A similar variation concerning to SWH, the trend of the mean wave period is provided, which also shows a decrease for decades. 相似文献
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基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。 相似文献
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Cheng-Han Tsai Min-Chih Huang Fu-Ji Young Yin-Chern Lin Hsien-Wen Li 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(10):4936-1259
Except the commonly selected pressure transfer function derived from the linear wave theory, a previous study on the pressure transfer function for recovering surface wave from underwater pressure transducer suggested that the pressure transfer function is a function of frequency parameter only. With careful analysis, this study showed that the pressure transfer function should include a transducer submergence parameter as that given by the linear theory. It was found that the previously suggested empirical formula should be restricted to measurements with the pressure transducer close to the surface; otherwise overestimation of wave height would result. Field measurements were carried out with an acoustic wave gauge and a synchronized pressure transducer located at various depths with submergence parameter close to 1 (near the sea floor). It was shown that the previous one-parameter empirical formula might overestimate the significant wave height by more than 30%. This study found that with deep-water wave bursts excluded, the transfer function based on the linear wave theory provided a fairly good estimation on the significant wave heights, with an average deviation of 3.6%. 相似文献
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This paper presents a new submarine landslide model based on the non-hydrostatic wave model NHWAVE of Ma et al. (2012). The landslide is modeled as a water–sediment mixture. The dense plume is driven by baroclinic pressure forcing introduced by spatial density variations. The model is validated using laboratory measurements of turbidity currents and of water wave generation by a granular landslide. The model is then utilized to study the dependence of landslide motion and associated tsunami wave generation on parameters including sediment settling velocity, initial depth of the landslide and slide density. Model results show that the slide motion and water waves which it generates are both sensitive to these parameters. The relative tsunamigenic response to rigid and deformable landslides of equal initial geometry and density is also examined. It is found that the wave energy is mostly concentrated on a narrow band of the dominant slide direction for the waves generated by rigid landslides, while directional spreading is more significant for waves generated by deformable landslides. The deformable landslide has larger speed and acceleration at the early stage of landslide, resulting in larger surface waves. The numerical results indicate that the model is capable of reasonably simulating tsunami wave generation by submarine landslides. 相似文献
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New version of SWAN model includes the wave diffraction effect which is the main improvement compared with the previous versions.Experimental data collected in the wave basin of the University of Delaware were used to test its performance.Wave heights were compared in the four cases(with different wave energies and directional spreading spectra).The results agreed well with the measurements,especially for the broad directional spectra cases.The effect of wave diffraction was analyzed by switching on/off the corresponding term.By introducing the diffraction term,the distributions of wave height and wave direction were smoothed,especially obvious for the narrow spectrum cases.Compared with the calculations without diffraction,the model with diffraction effect gave better results. 相似文献
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This paper describes a new procedure of directional wave analysis from pitch-roll buoy measurements. The two previous procedures adopted by the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) [Steele, K. E., Lau, J. C. K. and Hsu, Y.-H. L. (1985) Theory and application of calibration techniques for an NDBC directional wave measurement buoy. IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering OE-10(4), 382-396; Steele, K. E., Teng, C.-C. and Wang, D. W. C. (1992) Wave direction measurements using pitch-roll buoys. Ocean Engineering 19(4), 349-375] are relevant to our formulations. In these two studies, an estimate for the total phase shift of the sea surface displacement/slope spectra from the measured buoy heave/pitch and heave/roll spectra was calculated either by a weighted average method or a maximum heave/pitch quad-spectrum method. These two formulations were based on a fundamental assumption of symmetric hull-mooring effect on pitch and roll motions, which will never be true in the oceans. In the present study we essentially incorporate the basic formulations of NDBC, but calculate two estimates for this total phase shift.Examples of directional wave analysis from data measured by a 3 m diameter discus buoy during Typhoon Herb are presented in this paper. This data set was also analyzed by the weighted average method of Steele et al. (1985) which yielded unsatisfactory results of wave directions during severe wave climates. 相似文献
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This work examines ERS-1 (the first European Remote Sensing Satellite) SAR (Synthetic Aperture Radar) water surface wave images over Hualien of Taiwan, indicating that the variation of SAR signals in space domain is similar to in situ wave data's in time domain. Some statistical properties of SAR data are investigated. The Rayleigh distribution function closely corresponds with the histogram of wave heights, but the Gaussian one cannot for water surface displacements. Evidence reveals that SAR wave signals do not respond well to actual ocean waves effectively. As wave spectral analysis of available SAR data reveals, the appropriate sample size of SAR wave image, sampling average, and moving average should be taken carefully to accurately confirm directional power spectra. Moreover, SAR spectra are compared with in situ ones, confirming that peak frequencies correlate well and wave directions approximately agree with each other. Some differences between both spectral shapes remain somewhat unclear and require further study. Nevertheless, in this study, ERS-1 SAR power spectra verified the feasibility of deriving an appropriate dominant wave direction and peak frequency. 相似文献
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波浪聚焦被认为是产生极限波浪的重要机理之一,近年来受到普遍重视。通过高阶谱方法,引入造波边界建立数值计算模型,模拟聚焦波浪在不同方向分布时的产生和聚焦过程,研究波浪的方向分布对聚焦波浪的波面、波峰最大值、聚焦点的偏移、波面参数及频谱的影响。研究结果表明波浪方向分布越窄,波浪的非线性影响越强、波面越陡,波峰值、聚焦点的偏移和波面特征参数都越大;同时方向分布对波浪聚焦前后的能量具有很大的影响。 相似文献