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《Ocean Engineering》1999,26(5):401-430
The definition and subsequent use of dimensional and dimensionless parameters to characterize various nonlinear aspects of ocean surface waves has again become a matter of great interest to the offshore community. The desire to ascertain whether laboratory simulations are adequately representing the surface waves found in the oceans and the concern over the mechanisms behind platform response phenomena, like ringing, has driven this resurgence of interest. This paper presents a depth independent characterization of single design waves, from which improved estimates of localized wave crest front and back slopes follow that are consistent with discrete time series analysis. Characterization of the nature of the entire wave data recorded requires a combination of spectral parameters and probabilistic models in addition to those used in the design wave characterization. A new expression for the direct evaluation of the kurtosis from knowledge of the spectral bandwidth, the relationship between some of the common spectral parameters, and some modified spectral parameters are presented and discussed. Three illustrative examples are presented. The first example provides a detailed examination of wave data measured from a series of random amplitude and random phase tests in a large model basin. The second presents estimates of the various parameters for the Pierson-Moskowitz and Wallops wave spectrum models. The third example investigates the use of the spectral peakedness ratio for comparing data with selected wave spectrum models. The examples illustrate how the formulae can provide a comprehensive local and global parametric characterization of surface wave elevation data. 相似文献
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随机波浪下泰勒离散系数的时域解 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
利用Wolk提出的粒子追踪方程,通过等分频率法划分不规则波谱,利用MATLAB做粒子运动模拟计算,得到无因次化泰勒离散系数K/D随时间t变化的曲线;通过与Huang等得到的P-M谱的泰勒离散系数K/D计算结果比较证明了本计算方法的可靠性。采用该方法研究了不规则波条件下,波序列(同一谱型不同波面序列)和谱型(谱峰周期、有效波高、谱峰升高因子)对波浪离散系数的影响;计算结果表明:同一谱型不同波序列对泰勒纵向离散系数稳定值和稳定时间无影响;不规则波谱峰周期越大,纵向离散系数K/D越小,稳定时间越短;有效波高越大,纵向离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;谱峰升高因子越大,泰勒离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;与规则波相比,不规则波的泰勒离散系数K/D的值略小10%~30%。 相似文献
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The paper provides a simple analytical method which can be used to give estimates of the Stokes drift based on short-term variation of wave conditions. This is achieved by providing bivariate distributions of wave height and surface Stokes drift as well as wave height and volume Stokes transport for individual random waves within a sea state. The paper presents and discusses statistical aspects of these Stokes drift parameters, as well as examples of results corresponding to typical field conditions. 相似文献
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应用非线性谱分析理论，对三阶Stokes型随机波浪载荷谱进行了分析，将波面方程及海水质点的水平速度用一阶波面的非线性组表示，导出了随机波浪谱的表达式。为了便于求解随机波浪的载荷谱，将阻力项展开为幂级数式，并应用非线性谱分析理论，确定了幂级数的系数，进而将波浪载荷表示为一阶波面及其导数的非线性组合，最后得出波浪载荷谱密度的表达式，并应用数值分析方法，得出单位桩柱波浪力及总波浪力谱密度。 相似文献
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The spectral properties of nonlinear drag forces of random waves on vertical circular cylinders are analyzed in this paper by means of nonlinear spectral analysis. The analysis provides basic parameters for estimation of the characteristic drag forces. Numerical computation is also performed for the investigation of the effects of nonlinearity of the drag forces.The results indicate that the wave drag forces calculated by linear wave theory are larger than those calculated by the third order Stokes wave theory for given waves. The difference between them increases with wave height. The wave drag forces calculated by use of hnear approximation are about 5% smaller than their actual values when measured in the peak values of spectral densities. This will result in a safety problem for the design of offshore structures. Therefore, the nonlinear effect of wave drag forces should be taken into comidemtion in design and application of important offshore structures. 相似文献
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搭载在欧洲环境卫星(ENVISAT)上的高级合成孔径雷达(Advanced Synthetic Aperture Radar,ASAR)二级波模式数据提供了诸多海浪信息包括有效波高、波向、波长和二维海浪谱等,在海浪预报模式中具有重要作用。本文拟利用浮标观测数据对ASAR波模式算法及其反演数据精度进行对比验证。由于SAR卫星在海面的特殊成像机制,不同海况下会有不同的测量结果,通过与美国国家浮标中心(NDBC)的浮标数据对比,显示ASAR有效波高在高海况下低估和在低海况下高估的现象,在中等海况下的测量结果较优。通过研究ASAR数据集中对应的海浪谱,按照能量与方向分布可分为四种类型:单一方向海浪谱(Ⅰ类谱),180°方向模糊海浪谱(Ⅱ类谱),海浪两个方向且能量分布杂乱(Ⅲ类谱),多个传播方向且谱型杂乱海浪谱(Ⅳ类谱)。探究在不同类型下的海浪参数的精度,结果表明在单一波向正常海浪谱情况下,有效波高、波向与浮标数据一致性较好,存在180°方向模糊的对称海浪谱仅有效波高精度较高,谱型杂乱的海浪谱海浪有效波高和波向反演结果均较差。 相似文献
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本论文通过对南海北部三次台风过境期间基于浮标观测的海浪谱进行分析,发现虽然大部分成熟的台风海浪谱为单峰结构,但实际上在台风海浪的成长和衰减阶段,双峰谱占据了很大的比例。双峰谱的形成主要是由于风浪和涌浪的叠加以及不同波分量之间的非线性相互作用,我们可以通过能量密度的成长率对谱型变化进行高效的预报。此外,台风海浪的主要波向依赖于台风中心相对观测点的位置,而波向的分散情况在相距台风中心较远的区域无明显规律。本文提出了一个新的六参数波浪谱型拟合双峰谱,其拟合效果相较于前人的谱型更好。通过验证,形状参数和谱宽度之间的理论关系依然适用于单个谱峰。通过分析谱参量的变化特征,证明了谱参量不仅与台风强度和台风路径相关,还存在很强的交互相关。最后通过拟合海浪谱数据,本文得到了台风影响下海浪有效波高和有效周期之间的成长关系,这对海洋工程实际应用具有重要意义。 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(3):219-242
This paper presents numerical simulations and analytical predictions of key aspects of swash oscillations on a steep beach. Simulations of the shoreline displacement based on bore run-up theory are found to give excellent agreement with recent experimental data for regular waves, wave groups and random waves. The theory is used to derive parameters that predict the onset of swash saturation and the spectral characteristics of the saturated shoreline motion. These parameters are again in good agreement with the measured laboratory data and are also consistent with previous experimental data. Simulation of irregular wave run-up using a series of overlapping monochromatic swash events is found to reproduce typical features of swash oscillations and can accurately describe both the low and high frequency spectral characteristics of the swash zone. In particular, the low frequency components of the run-up can be modelled directly using a sequence of incident short wave bores, with no direct long wave input to the numerical simulations. This suggests that wave groupiness must be accounted for when modelling shoreline oscillations. 相似文献
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为了解杭州湾北部波浪特性,利用杭州湾北部一年实测波浪资料,统计分析该地区的波参数变化特征,运用回归分析获得波参数之间的相关关系,并用谱参数及波谱形态分析了实测波浪频谱的变化特性。结果表明,与杭州湾南部海域波浪特性明显不同之处是热带气旋对本观测水域波浪的影响强度大于冬季季风的影响强度,较大波浪主要由热带气旋引起,并且路径相似的热带气旋在杭州湾南、北部测点引起的最大波浪其参数较为接近。研究水域常浪向分布在东东北至东南向,强浪向主要分布在东东北方向。研究成果可为河口海湾相关工程的设计建造和沿海防灾减灾提供重要参考。 相似文献
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利用东矶列岛海域一年实测波浪资料,统计分析波要素特征,以台风“利奇马”为例,分析台风浪演变过程。结果表明：研究海域年平均有效波高0.88 m,年平均周期4.3 s,年最大波高8.67 m出现在夏季台风“利奇马”影响时。研究海域以轻浪为主,其次是小浪和中浪;常浪向为ESE,次常浪向为E和SE;强浪向为SSE,次强浪向为SE。波浪平均持续时间和波高之间符合指数衰减关系。台风“利奇马”影响期间,最大谱峰56.20 m2/Hz,台风浪谱型以双峰谱为主,台风浪类型经历了涌浪—混合浪—风浪—混合浪—涌浪这一演变过程。 相似文献
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- The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data. 相似文献
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Traditional wave steepness s=H/L does not define steep asymmetric waves in a random sea uniquey. Three additional parameters characterising single zero-downcross waves in a time series are crest front steepness, vertical asymmetry factor and horizontal asymmetry factor. Results for steepness and asymmetry from zero-downcross analysis of wave data obtained from full scale measurements in deep water on the Norwegian continental shelf in 58 time series are presented. The analysis demonstrates clearly the asymmetry of both “extreme waves” and the highest waves. The period and height of the highest waves are also given together with their correlation to spectral parameters. The measured maximum wave heights are also compared with predicted values of maximum wave heights showing good agreement. 相似文献
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In the dynamic stability analysis of a caisson breakwater, most of current studies pay attention to the motion characteristics of caisson breakwaters under a single periodical breaking wave excitation. And in the lifetime stability analysis of caisson breakwater, it is assumed that the caisson breakwater suffers storm wave excitation once annually in the design lifetime. However, the number of annual severe storm occurrence is a random variable. In this paper, a series of random waves are generated by the Wen Sheng-chang wave spectrum, and the histories of successive and long-term random wave forces are built up by using the improved Goda wave force model. It is assumed that the number of annual severe storm occurrence is in the Poisson distribution over the 50-year design lifetime, and the history of random wave excitation is generated for each storm by the wave spectrum. The response histories of the caisson breakwater to the random waves over 50-year design lifetime are calculated and taken as a set of samples. On the basis of the Monte Carlo simulation technique, a large number of samples can be obtained, and the probability assessment of the safety of the breakwater during the complete design lifetime is obtained by statistical analysis of a large number of samples. Finally, the procedure of probability assessment of the breakwater safety is illustrated by an example. 相似文献
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文章基于长乐海滩前滨剖面的实测波浪数据, 通过统计分析以及谱分析的方法, 探讨了潮汐过程中长乐海滩波浪参数及耗能过程的变化规律。结果表明, 观测期间内波浪以混合浪为主, 各测点谱型较宽, 存在多峰振荡现象。向岸传播过程中, 波能耗散的形式为窄频域向宽频域转变, 能量分布趋于分散, 高频波能减小, 低频波能反而有所上升, 波浪破碎后生成长重力波。破波带内的能量衰减与波浪传播距离具有良好的相关性, 破碎波能在破波带内大约衰减了98.3%。潮汐水位对波浪具有明显的调制作用。入射波能随潮汐水位的增加而有所增加, 且水位越高, 入射波能分布越分散。破波带内的有效波高和潮汐水位具有显著的正相关关系。潮汐过程中固定测点的波谱变化与波浪沿剖面的波谱变化具有明显的相似性。 相似文献
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漂浮于自由水面的污染物的的迁移、扩散会受到天然随机海浪的影响。之前的研究（以Herterich和Hasselmann（1982）为代表）普遍认为,随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度会引起水面污染物的离散,这个离散甚至有可能跟风和海流引起的离散同一量级。本研究就随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度是否会引起水面漂移物的离散进行理论和试验探讨。从理论推导可知,随机波浪下的质量输移速度是个定常分量,因此它不会随时间变化而引起水面漂移物的离散。随后我们在实验室水槽中进行了漂移物在随机波浪（P-M谱）作用下的漂移过程的测量。试验结果也印证了随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度不会引起水面漂移物离散的结论。 相似文献
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