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1.
Coastal planform studies are a relevant initial stage before launching detailed dynamic field experiments. The aim of this study is to define the planform characteristics of 72 Catalan pocket beaches, natural and man-made, and to determine their sheltering effect, embaymentization and their status of equilibrium. Planform measurements were performed on SIGPAC, 1:5000 orthophoto sets and wave climate was provided by Puertos del Estado (Wana model). Planform parameters were applied and coastal planview indexes were determined.The study shows that the Catalan pocket beaches display a wide range of indentation, suggesting that no single structural, tectonic or morphological control dominates their planform. The man-made pocket beaches typically display indentations which are smaller than those shown by natural pocket beaches. Headland spacing and beach area are positively correlated. The more indented bays are, the shorter their beaches become. Low-indented pocket beaches are the widest and the longest ones.Deep indentation contributes towards beach protection and energy dissipation which counteracts rip efficiency and inhibits the formation of mega-rips. Pocket beaches often show gradual and moderate alongshore changes in texture and beach morphology. One third of the Catalan pocket beaches are “sediment starved”, i.e., 60% and more of their embayed shorelines are deprived of beach sediments. Examination of the status of equilibrium demonstrates that most of the Catalan pocket beaches are in an unstable mode, with indentation ratios that are unrelated to the wave obliquity. 相似文献
2.
《Journal of Arid Environments》1998,39(3):533-547
Aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches was related to the fetch of the wind over the beach sand and to surface characteristics. Meteorological and hydrological conditions were recorded for 2 months. The fetch of wind over beach sand was estimated from wind direction, water level, wave height and beach topography. Aeolian sand transport was determined with sand traps. Sediment flux was found to increase with fetch, although this relation was especially affected by the variability in surface characteristics. On one of the beaches sediment supply was limited as a result of shells, forming a lag deposit. 相似文献
3.
基于地形动力学的海滩裂流安全性评价 ——以三亚大东海为例 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
文章基于海滩地形动力学模型建立了海滩安全性评价方法,认为低潮沙坝/裂流海滩类和沙坝类海滩出现裂流概率最大,沙坝消散类和有裂流的低潮台地类海滩裂流风险中等,没有裂流的低潮台地海滩、没有沙坝的消散海滩、超消散型、完全反射型海滩裂流风险很小。以三亚大东海为例,利用该评价方法分析了海滩溺水事故频发的原因,结果显示：1）该海滩状态以沙坝型和低潮沙坝/裂流海滩型为主,属于高风险海滩,此结论与当地救生实践吻合;2）该海滩溺水事故发生的根本原因为裂流危险性高,故容易发生溺水事故。 相似文献
4.
David Serrano Giné Joan Jurado Rota María Yolanda Pérez Albert Carla Bonfill Cerveró 《The Professional geographer》2018,70(3):412-422
The aim of this article is to introduce the Beach Crowding Index (BCI), a procedure to assess the social carrying capacity of vulnerable beaches. The study uses the people at one time (PAOT) approach and data gathered weekly throughout the bathing season regarding the number of beachgoers in 100 m2 cells of the beach to assess how many beachgoers it can comfortably hold. The procedure is based on fieldwork, interviews with beachgoers, and geographic information system (GIS) analysis and has been tested on four beaches in protected areas on the Spanish Mediterranean coast. On a scale from 0 to 4, minimum scores throughout the bathing season are 0.7 and maximum 3.7, although results showed wide variation between the beaches, the section of the beach, and the time of day. This study suggests that determining the location of beachgoers and collecting a long-term series of data is fundamental to assessing social carrying capacity and that the BCI procedure can be used for a large number of applications. 相似文献
5.
Where Have All the Beaches Gone? Coastal Erosion In The Tropics 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
P.P. Wong 《Singapore journal of tropical geography》2003,24(1):111-132
From a physical geography perspective, tropical coasts are characterised by coral reefs, mangroves and carbonate beaches on atolls and low reef islands. They face threats not only from sea level rise, but also from human activities that destroy mangroves, degrade coral reefs and accelerate beach erosion. Physical conditions in the tropics are suitable for the ideal tourist beach. Conceptually, the tourist coast can be considered as the integration of a physical system (the coast) and a human system (tourism). Studies have been carried out on various types of tourist coasts in Southeast Asia. For many atoll island states, sea level rise is more than just a threat to their tourism; it also determines their survival. In recent years, assessments of their vulnerability and adaptation have favoured a more integrative approach of physical and human sciences. Hopefully, this should result in a better analytical tropical geography that could play an important role in reducing coastal erosion and assist the small island states. 相似文献
6.
Questionnaires were completed by 2306 beach users at 19 Welsh beaches with respect to beach selection parameters. The modal group of respondents was female aged 30–39. Beach choice was primarily determined by clean litter-free sand and seawater, followed by safety. Refreshment facilities and beach awards were deemed minor considerations by the public when choosing a beach to visit. Approximately 58 per cent of respondents were aware of beach award and rating schemes. Of coastal visitors interviewed for this paper, 67 per cent rated a beach as 'important' or 'very important' to their holiday, with just 2 per cent replying that they were unimportant. 相似文献
7.
海滩状态是一个地形与水动力相互作用的三维地形动力问题.国外对海滩状态的地形动力分类已开展了大量卓有成效的研究工作,既包括波控、小潮、开阔海岸海滩状态的研究,也包括波控、不同潮差海岸海滩类型的研究和岬间海岸海滩类型的研究.文中回顾并概括了自20世纪70年代至今国外在砂质海滩地形动力分类方面代表性的研究工作,这些对于我国的... 相似文献
8.
The configuration of equilibrium beach profile in South China 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
To understand the evolution and stability of beaches, prediction of the equilibrium beach profile (EBP) is theoretically and practically important. In the present paper, a new equation, h = AeBx + C is developed to predict the change in beach profile for sections above the water level and the adjacent nearshore portions. Moreover, fractal analysis is applied to predict types of EBP for the first time using the field data collected from Liao Zuikou and Nanwan beaches, South China. Three types of EBP termed Upward-concave EBP (U-EBP), Downward-concave EBP (D-EBP) and Medium-characteristic EBP (M-EBP), are given for the studied region of South China. 相似文献
9.
ABSTRACT Composition and richness of coastal vegetation differs with distance from the water and sheltering by topography. Transition from pioneer beach plants to mature forests is expected to be narrow on low wave energy coasts with a tropical climate favorable to vegetation growth. The goal of this paper is to determine whether vegetation on the beach and foredune will be denser and have a greater number of species and more woody shrubs near the water as wave and wind stresses diminish because of favorable shoreline orientation within a pocket beach. Field data on beach width, beach mobility, dune height, vegetation species, vegetation height and percent vegetation cover were collected in Puerto Rico along six cross-shore transects. Beaches are more stable at transects in the lee of an eolianite barrier and a tombolo. The vegetation gradient there is compressed, with denser, taller, more diverse vegetation and more tree species close to the waterline than at more exposed sites. The lack of mobility of the beaches and dunes and lack of geomorphically significant disturbance events is in contrast to the conspicuous feedbacks between overwash, topography, and vegetation on exposed mid-latitude coasts, revealing the need for more study of low-energy beach environments. 相似文献
10.
海平面上升与海滩侵蚀 总被引：27，自引：1，他引：27
世纪性的海平面持续上升，加大了海岸水下斜坡深度，逐渐减小波浪对沉溺古海岸的扰动作用而形成海底的横向供沙减少，却加强激浪对上部海滩的冲刷。逐渐上升的海平面，降低了河流坡降而减少了入海沙量。因此世界海滩普遍出现沙量补给匮乏。海平面上升伴随着厄尔尼诺现象与风暴潮频率的增加，水动力加大。这两者的综合效应，使海滩遭受冲刷，沙坝向陆移动。如按ＩＰＣＣ估计，至２１００年海面上升５０ｃｍ时，中国主要旅游海滨的沙滩将损失现有面积的１３％─６６％。主要对策是海岸防护与海滩人工喂养。 相似文献
11.
海南岛的海涂土壤及其开发利用 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
根据调查资料和采样分析,作者划分海南岛海涂土壤类型,并就机械组成、养分含量、盐渍化程度、粘土矿物组成等方面阐述海涂土壤特征。根据海涂土壤的性质及其生态环境特征进行开发利用,宜以海水养殖和晒盐为主,其中海水养殖可分为8个区。 相似文献
12.
海滩地貌动力学为理解海滩形态和海岸动力环境提供了理论框架,在海滩的保护与开发中有重要的指导意义。基于地质背景、海滩地貌形态、海滩沉积物和海洋动力要素选取7个可以量化的海滩特征指标,采用聚类分析对雷州半岛23个海滩进行分类和地貌动力特征识别,针对海滩状态分类模型Ω-RTR在雷州半岛复杂多变海岸线环境下的适用性进行了分析,结果表明：① 雷州半岛海滩可以分为六类：反射组、低潮阶地/反射组（有裂流）、沙坝-槽谷/中间状态组、沙坝消散组、超消散组和低潮阶地/反射组（无裂流）;② 波浪、潮汐、沉积物特征以及海岸地质构造背景等对雷州半岛海滩状态均有不同程度的影响,在不同岸段各要素的影响各异。地质背景是海滩状态分类不可忽视的因素。③ 由于Ω-RTR模型在判别海滩状态时更侧重于动力和沉积因素,分类结果与聚类分析结果稍有差异,但总体上可以有效区分海滩状态类型,是理解海滩动力地貌系统有效手段。 相似文献
13.
The characteristics of foredunes created in a municipal management program on a developed barrier island are evaluated to identify how landforms used as protection structures can be natural in appearance and function yet compatible with human values. Shoreline management zones include a naturally evolving, undeveloped segment; a noneroding, developed segment; eroding and noneroding segments of an “improved beach” where dunes have been built by artificial nourishment; and a privately built, artificially nourished dune on the shoreline of an inlet.A disastrous storm in 1962 resulted in an aggressive program for building dunes using sand fences, vegetation plantings, purchase of undeveloped lots, and sediment backpassing to maintain beach widths and dune elevations. The present nourished and shaped foredune in the improved beach is higher, wider, and closer to the berm crest than the natural dune. Restricted inputs of aeolian sand keep the surface flat and poorly vegetated. A stable section of this engineered shore has a wider beach, and sand fences have created a higher foredune with greater topographic diversity. The cross shore zonation of vegetation here is more typical of natural dunes, but the environmental gradient is much narrower. The privately built dune is low, narrow, and located where it could not be created naturally. Foreshore and aeolian sediments in the undeveloped segment and the improved beach are similar in mean grain size (0.16–0.21 mm) and sorting (0.31–0.39φ), but sediment on the surface of the nourished dune is coarser (28.1% gravel) with a more poorly sorted sand fraction (1.30φ) representing lag elements on the deflation surface.Willingness to enhance beaches and dunes for protection has reduced insurance premiums and allowed the municipality to qualify for funds from the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) to replace lost sediment, thus placing an economic value on dunes. Success of the management program is attributed to: (i) timing property-purchase and dune-building programs to periods immediately after storms (causing residents to accept high dunes that restrict access or views); (ii) instituting a vigorous education program (reminding residents of hazards during nonstorm periods); (iii) maintaining control over local sediment supplies (to keep pace with erosion and create new shoreline environments); (iv) investing private and municipal economic resources in landforms (qualifying them for external funds for replacement); and (v) maintaining, augmenting, or simply tolerating biodiversity and natural processes (retaining a natural heritage). 相似文献
14.
Abstract: Understanding coastal boundaries, connections and drivers of landscape change is integral to effective coastal planning and management. This concept is explored here through case studies representing two very different New Zealand systems: embayed sand beaches in eastern and western open-coast settings; and mixed sand and gravel coast river-mouth lagoons. When framed within a resource and environmental management context these studies indicate that national recognition of the dynamic and interactive nature of coastal environments is a relatively new and amorphous phenomenon in New Zealand and, as such, has been ineffective in driving integrated regional management practices and sustainable coastal outcomes. 相似文献
15.
Lynda Johnston 《New Zealand geographer》2005,61(2):110-116
Abstract: In this paper I examine the intentional act of transforming the colour of one's skin – sun‐tanning – by Pākehā at three New Zealand beaches: Papamoa, Mount Maunganui, and Takapuna. Recent debates about the construction of whiteness are outlined before discussing the historical significance of beaches and sun to New Zealand's leisure culture. This paper seeks to de‐naturalize whiteness through the disclosure of gendered leisure practices of tanning. Empirical material reveals that Pākehā, who actively seek brown skin, negotiate a number of racialized and gendered ‘truths’ as their sun‐tan transforms their bodies. I conclude by arguing that geographers need to be more attentive to the ways in which place constructs particular forms of gendered whiteness. 相似文献
16.
海滩养护影响下的海岸风沙堆积——以福建平潭岛龙凤头海滩养护工程为例 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
海滩养护工程实施后,在保护海岸抵御侵蚀的同时往往还产生其他的环境问题。尤其在强风区海岸,海滩养护造成了滩面环境的改变,使滩面风沙搬运和沉积特征都发生了显著变化。对福建平潭岛龙凤头海滩养护工程实施前后的风沙沉积对比研究表明,养护后海滩的干滩宽度、滩面沉积物粒径、表层湿度、海滩高程等环境要素变化对滩面风沙搬运与沉积过程都产生了重要的影响。主要结论为:(1)养护海滩干滩滩肩高程的提高增加了滩面风速,增大了滩面风沙输沙率;(2)养护海滩干滩宽度的增加既扩大了风区长度也为风沙搬运提供了充足的物源,且不受潮汐过程影响,提供了持续的风沙物源供给,增加了风沙作用时间;(3)养护海滩剖面形态的变化使得海滩滩面沉积物含水率减小,降低风沙起动风速,增强了滩面风沙搬运。 相似文献
17.
D. S. Houghton 《The Australian geographer》1989,20(2):173-184
The recreational use of metropolitan beaches is an important but neglected aspect of recreational research in Australia. This paper discusses the results of a survey of beach use in the Perth metropolitan area and also examines travel patterns associated with beach usage. The most popular beaches draw people from throughout the metropolitan area and many people are prepared to travel relatively long distances to visit a particular beach. However, although a distance‐decay effect is apparent, there is little relationship between the pattern of trip generation in Perth and either demographic or status differences between suburbs. It is suggested that further research should focus on temporal aspects of beach usage. 相似文献
18.
P.K. Dinesh Kumar R. Manimurali M.T. Babu K. Sudheesh P. Vethamony K.R. Naveen Kumar 《自然地理学》2014,35(5):411-428
An in-depth analysis has been made to simulate hydrodynamic scenarios for understanding the nearshore sediment transport controls of placer mineral depletion at Manavalakurichi, India. From the analyses of topographic configuration (extracted from Hydrographic Nautical Chart No. 2048 and data generated during year 2010), we inferred that the 5-m isobaths had broadened and exhibited shallowness. Distances between the coastline and the isobaths were found to have increased significantly over the past five decades. Along with this, the 10 and 20-m contours were found to have shifted about 35–100?m horizontally landward. These changes led to severe sediment deposition in these regions due to the changed wave energy levels and refraction patterns. Numerical simulations linking bathymetry, hydrodynamics, sediment load, and significant wave heights revealed that changes in bathymetry would amplify the wave heights and convergence of wave energy. Associated removal of sand from the high-energy zones will eventually lead to sediment starvation situations and depletion of placers in the adjacent beaches. As the observed trends of depletion generate great concern, detailed oceanographic investigations should be taken up immediately in the region. Fine-resolution hydrodynamic data-sets should prove useful for further evaluating the physical responses of the system to the altered geometry and for exploring remedial measures for restoring the heavy mineral content of the beach sand. 相似文献
19.
DAVID HUDDART MATTHEW R. BENNETT MICHAEL J. HAMBREY NEIL F. GLASSER KEVIN CRAWFORD 《Polar research》1998,17(1):61-70
Well-rounded gravels are described from moraine-mound complexes, diamicton forefields and modern englacial thrusts at the margins of four glaciers on the northern side of Brøggerhalvøya, northwest Spitsbergen. Their shape charcteristics are compared with modern and fossil glacigenic, modern beach and Early Weichselian beach gravels from this peninsula. The best discriminators of the well-rounded gravels have been found to be the percentage-frequency roundness histograms, the roundness mid-point and roundness range diagrams and the sphericity-roundness plots. It is concluded that the gravels have been derived by englacial thrusting from Early Weichselian or last interglacial beaches in the inner parts of the fjord and in the low level cirques when sea level reached at least 50m a.s.l. and deposited the beach gravels. The discrimination between gravel in basal diamictons, proglacial outwash and modern beaches is difficult as the reworking has resulted in little particle shape change. The potential major problem caused by reworking in the glacial environment is emphasised. especially when clast shape comparisons from modern environments to older sediments are used. 相似文献
20.
海南岛东部铜鼓岭岸段港湾岸滩沉积特征 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
海南岛东部铜鼓岭岬角南、北两侧的淇水湾和月亮湾海岸海滩均为中粗砂海滩,其中值粒径和平均粒径主要分布在0~2 Ф之间,反映了海南岛东部动力作用整体较强。月亮湾近岸20 m水深处沉积物的中值粒径主要分布在-1~-3 Ф之间,主要以砾石为主;10~20 m水深处沉积物中值粒径分布在-1~0 Ф之间,以极粗砂为主;铜鼓岭南部淇水湾,以粗砂为主,部分区域出现细砂,反映海滩受到的动力条件不如北部月亮湾海岸海滩显著。造成这种差异的主要原因是铜鼓岭岬角对东北向(主风向)风浪的阻挡和岬角南部港湾有宽广的珊瑚礁平台对波浪的消能。而且,淇水湾海岸北部和南部也有差异,北部珊瑚礁平台受到破坏,对波浪的消浪较弱,从而表现同一海滩滩面物质分布的南北差异。 相似文献