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风暴是造成海滩剧烈变化的重要因子。由于观测环境的恶劣，目前极少有风暴过程中海滩响应的现场高频观测工作。本研究在2018年台风“贝碧嘉”期间对徐闻青安湾海滩开展了历时6天半的高频观测，获得了全时水动力要素和164组逐时海滩滩面高程变化数据。通过分析表明:(1)青安湾海域风暴增水及波浪受控于海南岛?雷州半岛特有的地形地貌和台风“贝碧嘉”的多变路径，增水稳定在0.38～0.5 m之间，而波高先由0.78 m衰减至0.43 m，再增加至0.56 m；(2)海滩剖面地形变化总体表现为滩肩侵蚀，形成水下沙坝，滩肩响应过程分为快速向下侵蚀、缓慢侵蚀至最大值、振荡回淤恢复3个阶段，台风期间滩肩振荡恢复幅度可达最大侵蚀深度的1/4；(3)海滩的风暴响应过程主要由4个模态耦合而成:第一模态体现大潮滩肩侵蚀生成水下沙坝过程；第二模态体现风暴滩肩侵蚀，补偿大潮滩肩侵蚀位置和进一步促进沙坝形成过程；第三模态揭示了波浪二次破碎位置的上冲流和离岸底流使泥沙发生双向输移过程；第四模态表明台风大浪使得碎波带内泥沙大量悬浮，在沿岸流和离岸流作用下部分悬沙进入深水区，可能造成海滩泥沙的永久亏损。 相似文献
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海滩位于海陆之间的动力敏感地带 ,海滩剖面是近岸过程的一个重要概念。海滩剖面形态受波浪、泥沙、沿岸流、地质等诸多因素的影响 ,使得海滩剖面时空变化极为复杂 ,对其研究具有重要的理论意义。另一方面 ,海滩作为海岸带资源的重要组成部分 ,与人们的生产关系极为密切 ,特别是在高能量的波浪或风暴作用下 ,海滩的巨大变化将对海岸生产设施和海岸工程造成极大的破坏 ,生产和管理部门对此也给予了高度的重视 ,因而这种研究也具有现实运用价值。1 不同能量状况的海滩剖面基本形态根据海滩所受的能量状况的不同 ,研究者常把海滩剖面分为涌浪… 相似文献
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海滩的演变特征是海岸地形动力学研究的一个重要内容。基于在海口湾假日海滩连续33d的地形剖面观测数据和台风前后表层沉积物粒度参数数据, 分析了海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面及沉积物变化特征。利用经验正交函数分析, 得出观测期间海口湾海滩有4个主要模态, 分别对应于涌浪对海滩的建设过程、当地风浪对海滩的侵蚀过程、台风对海滩的侵蚀过程和海滩特征地形的调整过程。研究结果表明: 涌浪和风浪对海滩剖面的作用受到了潮位调制的影响; 海口湾海滩显示出遮蔽型海滩变化特征; 沉积物粒度参数对海滩变化反应敏感, 可以提供丰富的海滩演变信息。 相似文献
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通过对一波控中等潮差海湾切线段 16个月海滩剖面数据,采用 EOF 分析提取了占数据总方差 91. 32 % 的前 3个空
间特征函数研究海滩剖面空间变化。结果发现第一空间特征函数指示了滩肩顶至碎波带海滩剖面变动逐渐增强的特征,是海
滩剖面变化的主要模式;第二空间特征函数指示了滩肩形成与消亡;第三空间特征函数指示了大潮高潮位的巨型滩角的存
在。通过对 EOF 分析得到的时间特征函数作连续功率谱分析,反映该海滩剖面波能在大小潮汐约半月潮周期、近塑望月潮
频率周期和大小潮汐约 2个月潮周期内对这些空间过程的控制,体现了这一波控中等潮差海岸近岸区,叠加在周期性潮汐之
上的波浪是海滩演变的主要动力因素,这在以前的研究中所忽略。 相似文献
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半遮蔽型海滩由于一侧海岬的差异作用而影响海滩的演变过程。本文以青岛石老人海水浴场海滩为例,基于对3条典型剖面连续11年现场监测的高程数据,利用经验正交函数(empirical orthogonalfunction,EOF)分析方法将该海滩各剖面高程数据组成的原始距平矩阵依次分解为相应的空间和时间特征函数,分析了石老人海滩的形态演化特征、蚀淤趋势及驱动因素,并采用方差总占比超过77%的前3个经验正交函数来反映此类海滩的基本演化情况,分别为:表征长时间尺度砂质海滩滩面最主要蚀淤变化趋势的第一模态、表征季节性蚀淤变化及其引起的滩肩剖面形成增长或削弱消亡的第二模态和表征人类活动、偶发因素或海岸地形等引起的具有随机性的不规律蚀淤变化的第三模态。结果表明:11年来石老人海滩经历了三个阶段,第一阶段为平稳期(2009年1月—2011年7月),第二阶段为突变期(2011年7月—2012年9月),该阶段之后至今,是第三阶段的平稳期(2012年9月—2019年12月)。海滩剖面在自然和人类活动影响下的高程变化范围在0.1—2.0m范围内。波浪是影响该海滩形态演化的最主要水动力因素,岬角对半遮蔽型海滩的差异庇护作用导致不同位置的剖面演化存在差异。高频率台风的影响、海平面阶段性升高并长期保持较高水平导致了远离岬角的开放岸段存在明显阶段性调整,剖面滩肩宽度减少约30m,岬湾内部剖面则相对稳定,目前海滩剖面形态在第二阶段突变期后达到了新的稳定状态。 相似文献
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海滩地形变化是复杂的地形动力过程作用的结果,包含着诸多的时间和空间尺度特征信息。本研究利用经验正交函数（Empirical Orthogonal Function, EOF）,对2018年4月至2019年3月的琼州海峡南岸铺前湾、海口湾和澄迈湾海滩剖面数据进行了分析。结果表明：①前3个时空函数可以代表琼州海峡南岸海滩主要变化模态。其中第1模态都表现为淤积,铺前湾和海口湾海滩呈现夏秋淤 冬春冲的季节性特征,澄迈湾为夏秋冲 冬春淤的季节性特征。第2、3模态则可能是风暴作用、潮位影响下的沉积物在滩面上的迁移或波浪随潮位变化引起,与海湾区域地形、入射波向、泥沙来源、潮差、波高、风暴路径等有关。②铺前湾和海口湾海域建设的人工岛加剧了海湾的遮蔽程度,促进了海湾部分岸段海滩淤积,海滩还要一段时间才能达到新的平衡。③作为次控因素之一,观测期间台风对海滩的影响程度有限。同时,海滩对台风响应与台风强度、登陆距离、相对台风的方位以及当地地形遮蔽程度密切相关。 相似文献
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山东半岛南北岸砂质海滩剖面时空变化过程分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
以山东半岛南北岸(烟台和日照)两个砂质海岸实测地形剖面为研究对象,应用经验正交函数(EOF)提取海滩2012年11月至2015年11月夏、冬两季剖面监测数据中的前4个模态的空间特征函数和时间特征函数,分析烟台和日照两个岸段砂质海滩剖面的时空演变特征,并对这两段海岸的地貌和沉积特征差异进行对比,探讨了山东半岛南北岸段砂质海岸动力环境的差异及影响因素。结果表明,第一特征函数是海滩剖面变化的最主要模式,两个岸段剖面的第一特征函数都以低潮线剖面的最大波动为主要特征,与波浪、潮汐共同影响有关;第二特征函数则是以高潮带至上冲流作用上限之间的剖面波动为主要特征,主要受风浪季节性周期变化控制;第三、四特征函数推测与偶然因素有关。 相似文献
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On average, five to six storms occur in the Qiongzhou Strait every year, causing significant damage to coastal geomorphology and several property losses. Tropical Storm Bebinca is the most unusual and complex storm event that has occurred in this region over the last 10 years. To detect the high-frequency beachface responses to the storm, a pressure sensor was deployed in the surf zone to record the free sea surface height, and the heights of grid pile points on the beachface were measured manua... 相似文献
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The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves. 相似文献
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Several levels of increasing complexity of transferring wave information from offshore to nearshore have been studied to quantify their influence on extreme beach erosion estimates. Beach profiles which have been monitored since 1976 were used to estimate extreme beach erosion and compared to predictions. Examination of the wave propagation assumptions revolves around two types of offshore to nearshore transfer: excluding or including wave breaking and bottom friction. A second complication is whether still water level variations (ocean tide plus storm surge) are included.The inclusion of various combinations of wave propagation processes other than shoaling and refraction in the wave transfer function changes on the extreme erosion distribution tail through lowering estimates above one year return period. This brings the predicted tails closer to the observations, but does not capture the upper limit of storm demand implied by the extensive beach profile data set. Including wave breaking has a marked effect on probabilistic estimates of beach erosion. The inclusion of bottom friction is less significant. The inclusion of still water level variability in the wave transfer calculation had minimal impact on results for the case study site, where waves were transferred from offshore to water at 20 m depth. These changes were put into perspective by comparing them to changes resulting from limiting beach erosion by adjusting the statistical distributions of peak wave height and storm duration to have maximum limits. We conclude that the proposed improvements on wave transformation methods are as significant as limiting wave erosion potential and worth including. 相似文献
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The Longard Tube experimental revetment installed in Del Mar, California in December 1980 has been monitored and its performance documented until it subsided and became ineffective during the severe winter storms of December 1982 to March 1983. The data suggest that the tube had no measurable effect on the sand level at Del Mar beach. The beach profile monitoring program conducted by Scripps in Del Mar since 1974 served as important background information for the design and interpretation of the monitoring program measurements.The tube experienced relatively minor storm wave interaction during winter 1980–1981. This was followed by heavy beach accretion on the entire reach in spring 1981 and an unusually mild winter of 1981–1982. By July 1982 the tube was totally buried behind a berm extending 35 m seaward. The severe winter storm waves of 1982–1983 coupled with high sea level due to high spring astronomical tides, sustained onshore westerly winds and low atmospheric pressure, eroded the sand level on Del Mar beach to the lowest level in at least 10 years. The Longard Tube settled differentially by up to 2 m and was continually overtopped at high tide, rendering it ineffective by late January 1983. It was removed in March 1983. The principal conclusion of the study is that the Longard Tube configured as it was in the Del Mar test is not a substantial enough barrier to effectively prevent beach sand erosion during severe storm events on the Southern California coast. 相似文献
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热带气旋前进方向两侧海滩风暴效应差异研究--以海滩对0307号台风"伊布都"的响应为例 总被引：11，自引：0，他引：11
在0307号台风“伊布都”(Imbudo)袭击华南沿海前后,对相距约300km的高栏岛飞沙湾(位于气旋前进方向右侧)和水东港下大海(位于气旋前进方向左侧)的固定海滩剖面地形及滩面沉积物进行了对比调查。调查结果表明,右侧海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击发生剧烈变化：后滨陆侧堆积,后滨向海侧及前滨滩面侵蚀(单宽侵蚀量达55m^3／m,平均海面(MSL)位置蚀退13m,岸线位置蚀退5m),以致剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变,表现出了海滩对台风做出快速响应;而左侧海滩剖面地形基本保持原状,虽也略呈侵蚀,但冲淤变化不大,表现为对台风做出迟缓响应。同时,从动力、滨海输沙、滩面沉积物变化和海岸地貌等方面对两侧海滩明显差异的风暴效应的机制进行了探讨。 相似文献
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随着全球海平面的上升及极端气象的频发,全球海滩总体呈现出一定的退化现象,海滩保护成为海岸带生态修复的焦点问题之一。我国华南地区岬湾型海滩分布广泛,以深圳市大鹏湾官湖海滩为代表,基于2020—2021年实测海滩剖面高程数据,分析岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征。研究表明,官湖海滩剖面坡度夏秋缓冬春陡,夏秋侵蚀冬春淤积;海滩沉积物粒径季节性变化不明显。海滩剖面形态受风浪、平均潮位的季节性变化控制,以夏秋季为例,平均潮位逐渐升高,南向波浪强度较大,在二者的共同作用下,海滩后滨侵蚀明显,泥沙离岸输运,并在前滨淤积。补沙方案宜在夏秋季进行,且重点区域为官湖海滩东侧与观海湾海滩,防御方案应主要削弱南向波浪。 相似文献
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海滩冲流带高频振动地形动力过程分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
在粤东汕尾后江湾海滩冲流带布设2条观测剖面,共计6个观测点,对滩面冲流带在约一个潮周期内的高频振动进行了观测,取得采样频率分别为1min/次和6min/次的滩面数据各1组.结合同步观测的碎波带波浪潮汐数据,分析探讨了海滩高频振动特征.分析认为在涌浪条件下,滩面高频振动的日内变化主要受到潮位变化过程的控制,涨潮堆积,落潮侵蚀.利用交叉谱分析的结果表明滩面高程变化滞后于潮位变化.滩面下部比上部振动幅度大,变化复杂,滩角脊部比凹部活跃.波群对滩面高频振动有显著影响,特别是波高大于有效波高的波群.滩面高频振动没有表现出明显的泥沙逐渐向陆地堆积过程,有一定的振动周期. 相似文献
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应用探地雷达方法对海南岛博鳌海岸沙坝的研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
了解海岸沙坝的内部结构对于动态地恢复海岸沙坝与海平面变化的相互关系具有重要的意义，探地雷达（GPR）为海岸沙坝的研究提供了一种快速、经济和高分辨率的地球物理方法；探地雷达利用高频电磁波在介电特性不均匀的沉积体中产生反射获得图像，通过解译可确定地下沉积体的性质和结构；在海南岛东部博鳌玉带滩海岸沙坝的近口门处、决口堤处和南岗村东侧玉带滩海岸沙坝顶部进行了探地雷达反射剖面的测量；研究结果表明自然堆积的沙体反射波连续，受风暴浪改造的沙体同相轴错断，反射波杂乱不连续，无法进行对比；运用探地雷达相分析方法并结合钻孔资料，认为5－6m以上的平行反射波形可能代表中细砂沉积，以下的丘状或杂乱反射波形可能代表中粗砂沉积，并显示砂砾或细小卵砾等粗颗粒含量的增加。 相似文献