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2.
Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution
models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing
the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using
Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period
is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical
mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only
changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but
also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution,
and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution
and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases.
The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37°27.6′ N, 122°15.1′ E), China, are used
to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different
spectral widths (ν=0.3−0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988)
distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that
the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions
do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory. 相似文献
3.
lareODUcrI0NThephenomenonofbreakingwavesintheoasnoocurswheneveramomentahiyhighcrestmecheSanunstablecondition.It0ccursintendtimhy,andtheoccurrencefre-qUencydePendsonthescastate.ManystudAshaddricaniedoutontheoccurmcefre-qUencyofbrmkingwavesindeepweter.0chiandTsai(l983),LongueHiggins(l975)andVanD0mandPamn(l975)nadstheptalictonofbrmkingwavesoccurrenceindeePwater,usingabaskingcriterionforindividualwavesbasedonthewavesmpness.ThecriterioncanbeexpmeedintennSofthewaVehdghtHandperiodTasH>PgT'(… 相似文献
4.
Field measurements of influence of sand transport rate on structure of wind-sand flow over coastal transverse ridge 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
The structure of wind-sand flow under different total sand transport rates was measured with field vertical anemometer and sand trap on the crest of typical coastal transverse ridge in Changli Gold Coast of Hebei Province, which is one of the most typical coastal aeolian distribution regions in China and famous for the tall and typical coastal transverse ridges. The measurement results show that, on the conditions of approximate wind velocities and same surface materials and environments, some changes happen to the structure of wind-sand flow with the increase of total sand transport rate on the crest of coastal transverse ridge. First, the sand transport rates of layers at different heights in the wind-sand flow increase, with the maximum increase at the height layer of 4-8cm. Second, the ratios of sand transport rates of layers at different heights to total sand transport rate decrease at the low height layer （0-4cm）, but increase at the high height layer （4-60cm）. Third, the distribution of the sand transport rate in the wind-sand flow can be expressed by an exponential function at the height layer of 0-40cm, but it changes from power function model to exponential function model in the whole height layer （0-60cm） and changes into polynomial function model at the height layer of 40-60cm with the increase of total sand transport rate. Those changes have a close relationship with the limit of sand grain size of wind flow transporting and composition of sand grain size in the wind-sand flow. 相似文献
5.
The Nonlinear Interaction Process in the wave Assimilation Model and Its Experiments 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
This paper presents a composite interaction formula based on the discrete-interaction operator of wave-wave nonlinear interaction for deriving its adjoint source function in the wave assimilation model.Assimilation experiments were performed using the significant wave heights observed by the TOPES/POSEIDON satellite,and the gradinet distribution in the physical space was also analyzed preliminarily. 相似文献
6.
In the design of wind turbine foundations for offshore wind farms, the wave load and run-up slamming on the supporting structure are the quantities that need to be considered. Because of a special arc transition, the interaction between the wave field and the composite bucket foundation(CBF) becomes complicated. In this study, the hydrodynamic characteristics, including wave pressure, load, upwelling, and run-up, around the arc transition of a CBF influenced by regular waves are investigated through physical tests at Shandong Provincial Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering, Ocean University of China. The distributions of the wave pressures and upwelling ratios around the CBF are described, and the relationship between the wave load and the wave parameters is discussed. New formulae based on the velocity stagnation head theory with linear wave theory and the second-order Stokes wave theory for wave kinematics are proposed to estimate the wave run-up. Moreover, the multiple regression method with nonlinear technology is employed to deduce an empirical formula for predicting run-up heights. Results show that the non-dimensional wave load increases with the increase in the values of the wave scattering parameter and relative wave height. The wave upwelling height is high in front of the CBF and has the lowest value at an angle of 135? with the incoming wave direction. The performance of the new formulae proposed in this study is compared using statistical indices to demonstrate that a good fit is obtained by the multiple regression method and the analytical model based on the velocity stagnation head theory is underdeveloped. 相似文献
7.
A new method using group-induced second-order long waves (GSLW) to describe wave groups is presented in this paper on the basis of the GSLW theory by Longuet- Higgins and Steward (1964) . In the method , the parabolic relationship between GSLW and the wave envelope is first deduced , and then the distribution function of GSLW amplitude is derived . Thus, the formulae in terms of the moments of GSLW and short wave spectra for the average time duration and the mean length of runs of wave heights exceeding a certain level can be derived . A new groupiness factor equivalent to half the mean wave number in wave groups is defined by taking into account the widths of spectra of GSLW and short waves . Compared with theoretical results of others , ours are closer to measured wave data . 相似文献
8.
Study on Dynamic Response of the ＂Dualistic＂ Structure Rock Slope with Seismic Wave Theory 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
Currently, scant attention has been paid to the theoretical analysis on dynamic response mechanism of the ＂Dualistic＂ structure roek slope. The analysis presented here provides insight into the dynamic response of the ＂Dualistie＂ structure rock slope. By investigating the principle of energy distribution, it is shown that the effect of a joint plays a significant role in slope stability analysis. A dynamic reflection and transmission model （RTM） for the ＂Dualistic＂ structure rock slope and explicit dynamic equations are established to analyze the dynamic response of a slope, based on the theory of elastic mechanics and the principle of seismic wave propagation. The theoretical simulation solutions show that the dynamic response of the ＂Dualistic＂ structure rock slope （soft-hard） model is greater than that of the ＂Dualistic＂ strueture rock slope （hard-soft） model, especially in the slope crest. The magnifying effect of rigid foundation on the dynamic response is more obvious than that of soft foundation. With the amplitude increasing, the cracks could be found in the right slope （soft-hard） crest. The crest failure is firstly observed in the right slope （soft-hard） during the experimental process. The reliability of theoretical model is also investigated by experiment analysis. The conclusions derived in this paper could also be used in future evaluations of Multi-layer rock slopes. 相似文献
9.
Generally, tsunami waves become hazardous only when approaching the coast. Studying the runup and inundation of tsunami waves
is important for understanding the tsunami evolution and for tsunami hazard assessment. Here, we simulated the 1993 Hokkaido-Nansei-Oki
(HNO) tsunami using a finite-difference model based on nonlinear shallow-water equations. We focused on the runup and inundation
of tsunami wave propagation onto coastal area of Okushiri Island near Hokkaido, Japan, and investigate the relationship of
different runup heights with the morphology and bathymetry of the seashore. In the simulation, a nested 4-layer grid system
and moving boundary technique are adopted to study runup and inundation. The calculated tsunami heights and inundations in
the region agreed well with field measurements. The local bathymetric and topographic characteristics had a first-order effect
on the runup. Numerical experiments show that the focusing of certain local bathymetric features would amplify both wave height
and current velocity remarkably. The results show that computation on dense grids is necessary to reproduce the observed runup
heights, and inundation velocity is an important factor preventing tsunami devastation. In addition, we discussed the potential
capability of sediment transport to illustrate the impact of tsunami waves on coastal geomorphology. 相似文献
10.
A study is presented on the modulation of ripples induced by a long surface wave (LW) and a new theoretical modulation model
is proposed. In this model, the wind surface stress modulation is related to the modulation of ripple spectrum. The model
results show that in the case of LW propagating in the wind direction with the wave age parameter of LW increasing, the area
with enhanced shear stress shifts from the region near the LW crest on the upwind slope to the LW trough. With a smaller wave
age parameter of LW, the ripple modulation has the maximum on the upwind slope in the vicinity of LW crest, while with a larger
parameter the enhancement of ripple spectrum does not occur in that region. At low winds the amplitude of ripple modulation
transfer function (MTF) is larger in the gravity wave range, while at moderate or high winds it changes little in the range
from short gravity waves to capillary waves. 相似文献
11.
A new model is proposed to estimate the significant wave heights with ERS-1/2 scatterometer data. The results show that the relationship between wave parameters and radar backscattering cross section is similar to that between wind and the radar backscattering cross section. Therefore, the relationship between significant wave height and the radar backscattering cross section is established with a neural network algorithm, which is, if the average wave period is ≤7s, the root mean square of significant wave... 相似文献
12.
13.
An investigation of the effects of a uniform current strength direction (following or opposing wave propagation) on the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a submerged trapezoidal sill is carried out using SWASH, a non-hydrostatic numerical wave model. The nonlinear parameters (i.e., asymmetry, skewness, and kurtosis) are calculated, and the empirical formulas for these parameters are presented as a function of the local Ursell number based on the present numerical data measured. In the shoaling area of the submerged sill, the nonlinear characteristics of waves are more obvious when waves propagate in the same direction as the currents than when waves propagate in the opposite direction. Whereas nonlinear parameters grow with the strengthening of the following currents over the crest, they tend to decrease as the adverse current velocity increases over the crest area of the submerged sill. 相似文献
14.
高分辨率遥感影像阴影与立体像对提取建筑物高度比较研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
建筑物高度信息的快速准确获取对于城市规划管理、生态环境评价具有重要意义。本文以南京市主城区为研究区,选择2011年Geoeye-1卫星高分辨率遥感影像立体像对数据,结合Google Earth数据及实地建筑物高度测量,分别利用单幅遥感影像和立体像对计算建筑物高度,并以实测建筑物高度数据验证不同方法的提取精度,进而比较这2类方法的优缺点。结果表明：利用立体像对提取建筑物高度的方法更加精确,提取结果误差在2.8 m以内,能够快速地获取大范围建筑物高度,具有实用价值;单幅遥感影像阴影提取建筑物高度适用于建筑物高大、毗邻建筑物间隙大、周围无遮挡的情况,而立体像对提取建筑物高度不受建筑四周环境影响,在建筑物密集分布、高度均一的情况下,其普适性更强。 相似文献
15.
水库滑坡约束条件影响其运动过程的几何形态, 是滑坡涌浪预测的重要参数之一。为了探究约束条件对滑坡涌浪特征(波高、波幅与周期)的影响, 采用正交试验设计法开展了54组滑坡涌浪室内模型试验, 并基于统计学理论对约束散体和半约束散体的涌浪特征进行了分析。结果表明: 涌浪波周期基本不受滑体约束条件的影响; 而半约束散体模型的波高和波幅小于约束散体的波高和波幅, 半约束散体的初始涌浪波高约为约束散体的0.95倍, 半约束散体模型的最大波峰波幅约为约束散体模型的0.9倍。因此, 在开展滑坡涌浪快速预测时, 虽然滑体入水形态与破坏前形态差异巨大, 但基于滑坡初始几何形态参数对其初始涌浪波高和最大涌浪波幅的预测结果是偏安全的。研究结论可以为更准确地预测水库滑坡涌浪提供理论依据。 相似文献
16.
Interactions between two identical monochromatic wave trains with a relative separation angle of 24? were experimentally investigated in a well-designed ‘X' configuration.Wave trains with different amplitudes and frequencies were generated.The results demonstrated that the interaction was strongly dependent on both wave amplitude and frequency.For nonbreaking and lower-frequency cases,the wave trains can approximately reestablish their initial state following the interaction.However,for larger waves,the interaction was enhanced,distorting the surfaces significantly-the wave trains were no longer two-dimensional after the encounter.During the interaction process,there was an obvious increase in wave height,reaching a maximum amplification in the middle of the interaction region that was approximately 1.55 times the initial height.Furthermore,the images captured by high-speed cameras illustrated that two wave trains entered the interaction region at the same time and then merged during the interaction process,resulting in an increase in wave amplitude.The combined wave crest was initially composed of two straight segments with a relative angle of 24? and gradually morphed into a single segment as is evident in the plan view.The wave then broke in the downstream,still within the interaction region,exhibiting a crescent pattern along the crest. 相似文献
17.
基于线性波理论及Morison方法,推导建立了波-流共同作用下圆形深水网箱锚绳受力求解的理论模型。以湛江湾特呈岛深水网箱养殖基地为背景,分析了典型圆形重力网箱在特征波浪、海流作用下的浮架、网衣及锚绳的受力特性,并与现场实测的数据进行了比较。结果显示,理论计算结果能较好地与实测数据吻合。在本算例中,当网箱处于湾内时,海流是其主要的外部动力因素,随着网箱向湾外的发展,波浪力对锚绳力的贡献将显著增加;当波高超过2 m时,波浪力将成为主要的外部动力因素。该理论求解体系能方便有效地应用于工程中,为深水抗风浪网箱的受力分析及锚泊系统设计等问题提供积极的理论参考及初步的定量估计。 相似文献
18.
The current storm wave hazard assessment tends to rely on a statistical method using wave models and fewer historical data which do not consider the effects of tidal and storm surge.In this paper,the wave-current coupled model ADCIRC+SWAN was used to hindcast storm events in the last 30 years.We simulated storm wave on the basis of a large set of historical storms in the North-West Pacific Basin between 1985 and 2015 in Houshui Bay using the wave-current coupled model ADCIRC+SWAN to obtain the storm wave level maps.The results were used for the statistical analysis of the maximum significant wave heights in Houshui Bay and the behavior of wave associated with storm track.Comparisons made between observations and simulated results during typhoon Rammasun(2014)indicate agreement.In addition,results demonstrate that significant wave height in Houshui Bay is dominated by the storm wind velocity and the storm track.Two groups of synthetic storm tracks were designed to further investigate the worst case of typhoon scenarios.The storm wave analysis method developed for the Houshui Bay is significant in assisting government's decision-making in rational planning of deep sea net-cage culture.The method can be applied to other bays in the Hainan Island as well. 相似文献
19.
Storm surge inundation is a major concern in marine hazard risk assessment during extreme weather conditions.In this study,a high-resolution coupled model(the ADVanced CIRCulation model+the Simulating WAves Nearshore model)was used to investigate the storm surge inundation in the southwestern Hangzhou Bay region during Typhoon Chan-hom in 2015.The simulated hydrodynamic processes(sea surface wave and storm tide)were validated with measured data from wave buoys and tide gauges,indicating that the overall performance of the model was satisfactory.The storm surge inundation in the coastal area was simulated for several idealized control experiments,including different wave effects(wave-enhanced wind stress,wave-enhanced bottom stress,and wave radiation stress).Dike overflowing cases with different dike heights and dike breaking cases with different dike breach lengths were considered in the simulation.The results highlight the necessity of incorporating wave effects in the accurate simulation of storm surge inundation.Dike height significantly influences the magnitude and phase of the maximum inundation area in the dike overflowing cases,and dike breach length is an important factor impacting the magnitude of the maximum inundation area in the dike breaking cases.This study may serve as a useful reference for accurate coastal inundation simulation and risk assessment. 相似文献
20.