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1.
《Sedimentology》2018,65(2):461-491
Gravelly beach ridges, which are formed solely by swash processes, may accurately reflect past wave conditions. The thickness (or height) of a gravelly beach ridge approximately equals the height of wave inundation, which is the sum of the surge and wave run‐up. Their ancient counterparts, if well‐preserved and identified, can be used to estimate palaeowave conditions, which can later be converted to palaeowind intensities based on wind–wave relationships. A technique is described for estimating the palaeowind speed in this paper, which is referred to as the gravelly beach‐ridge thickness technique. By comparing these estimates with instrumental wind records obtained at a modern lake, Qinghai Lake in north‐western China, the beach‐ridge thickness technique is shown to be useful for estimating the average wind speed (V avg). When applying this method to ancient fetch‐limited basins, five parameters are necessary: (i) the thickness of the isolated gravelly beach ridge; (ii) the average depth of the water body; (iii) the palaeofetch; (iv) the angle between the palaeowind direction and the normal to the shoreline; and (v) the particle size. This technique was applied to an ancient example in the Eocene Dongying Depression, located in eastern China. The results indicate that the average wind speed of the northern wind ranged between 2·27 m sec−1 and 8·36 m sec−1 from 45·0 Ma to 42·0 Ma, and displayed a generally decreasing trend that included early strengthening followed by weakening and later strengthening during this period. The beach‐ridge thickness technique provides a new perspective on delineating palaeowind conditions and can be applied to ancient fetch‐limited basins with gravelly beach ridges worldwide. Generally, if a water body is sufficiently large (fetch exceeding 40 km), deep (average depth exceeding 10 m) and waves (or winds) are determined to approach the shoreline with high angles (angle of incidence <35°), then the calculation errors will be small to negligible.  相似文献   

2.
Data from a moderate energy, meso-tidal beach on the east side of Delaware Bay, New Jersey, USA, revealed the significance of both beach width as a source for aeolian transport and the effect of tidal rise on source width. Wind speeds averaged over 17·1 min, recorded 6 m above the crest of a 0·5 m high dune, ranged from 11·6 to 12·7 m s?1 during the experiment. The highest observed rate of transport on the beach was 0·0085 kg m?1 s?1, monitored at rising low tide when the average wind speed was 11·6 m s?1 across 0·35 mm diameter surface sediments. The wind direction was oblique to the shoreline, creating a source width of 34 m. The reduction in the width of the beach as a source for aeolian transport during rising tide was approximately arithmetic, whereas the reduction in volume of sediment trapped was exponential. Aeolian transport effectively ceased when source width was less than 8 m. Wind conditions, moisture content of the surface sediments and presence of binding salts did not appear to vary dramatically, and no coarse grained lag deposit formed on the surface of the beach. The decrease in rate of sediment trapped through time in the tidal cycle is attributed to differences in source width. Sediment deposited in the litter behind the active beach by strong winds during the rising tide was eroded during the high water period by the high waves and storm surge generated by these winds, and net losses of sediment were observed despite initial aeolian accretion.  相似文献   

3.
Over the past 100 years, the Isles Dernieres, a low lying barrier island chain along the coast of central Louisiana, Usa , has undergone more than 1 km of northward beach face retreat with the loss of 70% of its surface area. The erosion results from a long term relative sea level rise coupled with day to day wind and wave action that ultimately favours erosion over deposition. At a site in the central Isles Dernieres, 8 days of wind and beach profile measurements during the passage of one winter cold front documented aeolian erosion and deposition patterns under both onshore and offshore winds. For offshore winds, the theoretical erosion rate, based on wind shear velocity, closely matched the measured erosion rate; for onshore winds, the theoretical rate matched the measured rate only after being corrected by a factor that accounted for beach face morphology. In late February 1989, a strong cold front moved into coastal Louisiana. That cold front stalled over the Gulf of Mexico, resulting in 4 days of strong northerly winds at a study site on the Isles Dernieres. During those 4 days, the wind moved sand from the backshore to the upper beach face. When the cold front finally moved out of the area, the wind shifted to the south and decreased in strength. The onshore wind then restored some of the upper beach face sand to the backshore while increased wave activity moved the rest into the nearshore. The theoretical estimate of 1·28 m3 m?1 for the rate of sand transport by the northerly wind compares well with the measured backshore erosion rate of 1·26 m3 m?1, which was determined by comparing beach profiles from the start and end of the period of northerly winds. The theoretical estimate of 0·04 m3 m?1 for the rate of sand transport by the southerly wind, however, is notably less than the measured rate of 0·45 m3 m?1. The large discrepancy between the two rates can be explained by a difference in the shear velocity of the wind between the beach face, where the erosion occurred, and the backshore, where the wind stress was measured. Using an empirical relationship for the wind shear drag coefficient as a function of coastal environment, the theoretical estimate for the rate of sand transport by the southerly wind becomes 0·44 m3 m?1  相似文献   

4.
Field measurements of the flux and speed of wind-blown sand   总被引：13，自引：0，他引：13  
A field experiment was conducted to measure the flux and speed of wind-blown sand under known conditions in a natural setting. The experiment, run at Pismo Beach, California, involved a tract 100 m long (parallel with the wind) by 20 m wide. The site was instrumented with four arrays of anemometers to obtain wind velocity profiles through the lower atmospheric boundary-layer, temperature probes to determine atmospheric stability and wind vanes to determine wind direction. From these measurements, wind friction speeds were derived for each experimental run. In order to measure sand saltation flux, a trench 3 m long by 10 m wide (transverse to the wind direction) by 0·5 m deep was placed at the downwind end of the tract and lined with 168 collector bins, forming an ‘egg-box’ pattern. The mass of particles collected in each bin was determined for four experimental runs. In order to assess various sand-trap systems used in previous experiments, 12 Leatherman traps, one Fryberger trap and one array of Ames traps were deployed to collect particles concurrently with the trench collection. Particle velocities were determined from analysis of high-speed (3000 and 5000 frames per second) motion pictures and from a particle velocimeter. Sand samples were collected from the trench bins and the various sand traps and grain size distributions were determined. Fluxes for each run were calculated using various previously published expressions, and then compared with the flux derived from the trench collection. Results show that Bagnold's (1941) model and White's (1979) equation most closely agree with values derived from the trench. Comparison of the various collector systems shows that the Leatherman and Ames traps most closely agree with the flux derived from the trench, although these systems tended to under-collect particles. Particle speeds were measured from analysis of motion pictures for saltating particles in ascending and descending parts of their trajectories. Results show that particle velocities from the velocimeter are in the range 0·5–7·0 m s?1, compared to a wind friction velocity of 0·32–0·43 m s?1 and a wind velocity of 2·7–3·9 m s?1 at the height of the particle measurements. Descending particles tended to exceed the speeds of ascending particles by ～ 0·5 m s?1.  相似文献   

5.
Models of factors controlling late Pleistocene pluvial lake-level fluctuations in the Great Basin are evaluated by dating lake levels in Jakes Valley. “Jakes Lake” rose to a highstand at 13,870 ± 50 14C Yr B.P., receded to a stillstand at 12,440 ± 50 14C yr B.P., and receded steadily to desiccation thereafter. The Jakes Lake highstand is roughly coincident with highstands of lakes Bonneville, Lahontan and Russell. The rise to highstand and recession of Jakes Lake were most likely controlled by a storm track steered by the polar jet stream. The final stillstand of Jakes Lake helps constrain timing of northward retreat of the polar jet stream during the Pleistocene-Holocene transition.  相似文献   

6.
Although general trends in transgressive to highstand sedimentary evolution of river‐mouth coastlines are well‐known, the details of the turnaround from retrogradational (typically estuarine) to aggradational–progradational (typically coastal/deltaic) stacking patterns are not fully resolved. This paper examines the middle to late Holocene eustatic highstand succession of the Po Delta: its stratigraphic architecture records a complex pattern of delta outbuilding and coastal progradation that followed eustatic stabilization, since around 7·7 cal kyr bp . Sedimentological, palaeoecological (benthic foraminifera, ostracods and molluscs) and compositional criteria were used to characterize depositional conditions and sediment‐dispersal pathways within a radiocarbon‐dated chronological framework. A three‐stage progradation history was reconstructed. First, as soon as eustasy stabilized (7·7 to 7·0 cal kyr bp ), rapid bay‐head delta progradation (ca 5 m year?1), fed mostly by the Po River, took place in a mixed, freshwater and brackish estuarine environment. Second, a dominantly aggradational parasequence set of beach‐barrier deposits in the lower highstand systems tract (7·0 to 2·0 cal kyr bp ) records the development of a shallow, wave‐dominated coastal system fed alongshore, with elongated, modestly crescent beaches (ca 2·5 m year?1). Third, in the last 2000 years, the development of faster accreting and more rapidly prograding (up to ca 15 m year?1) Po delta lobes occurred into 30 m deep waters (upper highstand systems tract). This study documents the close correspondence of sediment character with stratal distribution patterns within the highstand systems tract. Remarkable changes in sediment characteristics, palaeoenvironments and direction of sediment transport occur across a surface named the ‘A–P surface’. This surface demarcates a major shift from dominantly aggradational (lower highstand systems tract) to fully progradational (upper highstand systems tract) parasequence stacking. In the Po system, this surface also reflects evolution from a wave‐dominated to river‐dominated deltaic system. Identifying the A–P surface through detailed palaeoecological and compositional data can help guide interpretation of highstand systems tracts in the rock record, especially where facies assemblages and their characteristic geometries are difficult to discern from physical sedimentary structures alone.  相似文献   

7.
A 4·7 km2 field of sediment waves occurs in front of the Slims River delta in Kluane Lake, the largest lake in the Yukon Territory. Slims River heads in the Kaskawulsh Glacier, part of the St Elias Ice Field and discharges up to 400 m3 s?1 of water with suspended sediment concentrations of up to 7 g l?1. The 19 km long sandur of Slims River was created in the past 400 years since Kaskawulsh Glacier advanced and dammed the lake and the sandur has advanced into Kluane Lake at an average rate of 48 m a?1. However, this rate is decreasing as flow is diverted from Slims River because of the retreat of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. The sandur and a road constructed on the delta remove coarse‐grained sediment, so the river delivers dominantly mud to the lake. Inflow during summer generates quasi‐continuous turbidity currents with velocities up to 0·6 m s?1. The front of the delta consists of a plane surface sloping lakeward at 0·0188 (1·08°). A field of sediment waves averaging 130 m in length and 2·3 m in amplitude has developed on this surface. Slopes on the waves vary from ?0·067 (?3·83°, i.e. sloping in the opposite direction to the regional slope) to 0·135 (7·69°). The internal structure of the sediment waves, as documented by seismic profiling, shows that sedimentation on the stoss portion of the wave averages 2·7 times that on the lee portion. Rates of sediment accumulation in the wave field are about 0·3 m a?1, so these lacustrine waves have formed in a much shorter period of time (less than 200 years) and are advancing upslope towards the delta much more quickly (1 to 2 m a?1) than typical marine sediment waves. These waves formed on the flat surface of the lake floor, apparently in the absence of pre‐existing forms, and they are altered and destroyed as the wave field advances and the characteristics of the turbidity currents change.  相似文献   

8.
The 3·2 km long Rose Creek fan delta of west‐central Nevada is prograding from an active rift margin into the 32 m deep Walker Lake. A case study of the forms, processes and facies of this fan delta reveals that the proximal and medial zones mainly are of sub‐aerial origin, and the distal zone is of lacustrine origin. Pebbly to bouldery rock‐avalanche mounds >100 m thick (Facies A) and muddy to bouldery debris flow levées 0·5 to 2·0 m thick (Facies B) dominate the proximal zone, whereas mostly matrix‐supported cobbly pebbly debris flow lobes 0·1 to 1·0 m thick (Facies C) typify the medial zone. Surficial pebble lags and gully fills (Facies D) are widespread in both zones but, in exposures, comprise only partings or lenticles between debris flow units. The distal fan delta mainly consists of lakeshore to lake‐bottom tracts formed by extensive wave reworking of debris flow facies. Nearshore deposits include erosional cobbly boulder lag beaches (Facies E), pebbly constructional beaches attached at headcuts or on barrier spits (Facies F), pebbly upper shoreface (Facies G) and sandy lower shoreface (Facies H) tracts positioned lakeward of the beach, and pebbly landward‐dipping foresets (Facies I) and backshore‐pond sand and mud (Facies J) present landward of the spits. Erosional lag beaches fringe the windward north side of the fan‐delta front, attached constructional beaches characterize the central zone, and southward‐elongating barrier spits typify the leeward south side, extending from the zone of greatest projection of the fan delta into the lake. Shoreline facies asymmetry results from largely unidirectional longshore drift caused by high fetch to the north and minimal fetch to the south, combined with the arcuate shape of the fan‐delta front. The spits overlie a platform deposited below common wave base consisting of south‐east‐trending cones of pebbly Gilbert foresets (Facies K) and sandy toesets (Facies L). Typically slumped silt and mud (Facies M) fringe both this platform and lower shoreface sand in deeper water. This case demonstrates facies types and patterns that are inconsistent with the widely promoted fan‐delta facies model having a front consisting of an apron of radially directed Gilbert foresets deposited where sub‐aerial flows enter the lake. The Rose Creek fan‐delta front instead features a sharp contact between sub‐aerial and lakeshore facies formed where waves erode, sort and redistribute heterogeneous debris flow sediment into the various shallow‐to‐deep lake facies. Gilbert foresets are present only in the lee of the fan delta where sediment moving by longshore drift reaches the brink of the spit front. This facies scenario results from the infrequency of fan‐building events versus nearly constant wind‐induced waves, a scenario that, in contrast to the popular Gilbert model, probably is the norm for fan deltas. The level of Walker Lake, and thus the position of wave reworking on the Rose Creek fan delta, fluctuated over a range of ～157 m during the last 18 kyr, producing complex interfingering between sub‐aerial and lakeshore facies across a 1700 m wide radial belt, typifying a wave‐modified, freestand lacustrine fan delta.  相似文献   

9.
Measurements of sand transport by wind on a natural beach   总被引：6，自引：0，他引：6  
Bagnold's (1954) and Kawamura's (1951) formulae may be used for the calculation of the sand movement on a natural beach, provided the shear stress velocity U* > 0·D4 m/s. Great discrepancies have been found between calculated and measured sand transport rates for U* < 0·D4 m/s, mainly because of the capillary forces acting on a wet beach. The measured critical shear velocity U*c at the beginning of sand movement on a clean dry beach agrees very well with that predicted by Bagnold's formula. On a dry beach where the sand grains are stuck together, U*c was found to be about 10% higher. On a wet beach U*c appeared to depend on the moisture content of the surface layer. Grain size is a determining parameter in the U*c-moisture content relation. When the angle a between the wind direction at sea and the dune face is between 15° and 85° the streamlines of the wind will bend in the vicinity of the dune face. In consequence this may influence the direction of sediment movement.  相似文献   

10.
Tufa domes and towers are common around the margins of Winnemucca Dry Lake, Nevada, USA, a desiccated sub‐basin of pluvial Lake Lahontan. A 2·5 m diameter concentrically‐layered tufa mound from the southern end of the playa was sampled along its growth axis to determine timing, rate and geochemical conditions of tufa growth. A radiocarbon‐based age model indicates an 8200‐year tufa depositional record that begins near the end of the Last Glacial Maximum (ca 23 400 cal yr bp ) and concludes at the end of the most recent Lahontan highstand (ca 15 200 cal yr bp ). Petrography, stable isotopes and major and minor elemental compositions are used to evaluate the rate and timing of tufa growth in the context of the depositional environment. The deposit built radially outward from a central nucleation point, with six decimetre‐scale layers defined by variations in texture. Two distinct tufa types are observed: the inner section is composed of two layers of thinolite pseudomorphs after ikaite, with the innermost layer comprised of very small pseudomorphs (<0·25 cm) and an outer layer composed of larger, ca 3 cm long pseudomorphs, followed by a transitional layer where thinolite pseudomorphs grade into calcite fans. The outer section consists of three distinct layers of thrombolitic micrite with a branching mesofabric. The textural change occurred as lake levels began to rise towards the most recent Lahontan highstand interval and probably was prompted by warming of lake waters caused by increased groundwater flux during highstand lake levels. The Mg/Ca and Sr/Ca variations suggest a warming trend in the tufa growth environment and may also reflect increasing growth rates of tufa associated with increased fluxes of groundwater. This systematic study of tufa deposition indicates the importance of the hydrology of the lacustrine tufa system for reconstructing palaeoenvironmental records, and particularly the interaction of ground and surface waters.  相似文献   

11.
Beach fetch distance and aeolian sediment transport   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  
Jackson  & Cooper 《Sedimentology》1999,46(3):517-522
An experiment was conducted to examine the influence of fetch distance on aeolian sediment transport on a natural sand beach at Benone Strand, County Londonderry, Northern Ireland. The site consisted of a wide dissipative beach, approximately 150 m wide at low tide and 80 m wide during high tide. Surface moisture levels (and hence dry fetch distance) were dictated by both local groundwater, from a stream outlet across the beach, as well as local tidal levels. An abundant dry sediment supply was available during the experiment. High-resolution (1 Hz) measurements were made of wind speed and direction along with sediment flux. Wind velocity ranged from 2·1 to 8·1 m s–1 during the study. Second-order polynomial sand transport equations were derived from the wind speed and trap results with r 2 values of better than 0·93 for all data. When the data were sorted into velocity bins of 1 m s–1, there was no discernible relationship between fetch distance and sand transport, with a measured fetch distance range of 10–58 m available during the experiment. Results show that fetch distance is unimportant when an adequate sand supply is available. However, it is suggested that fetch may restrict the development of steady-state transport under sediment-limited conditions. Sediment availability is thus identified as a key variable in aeolian transport studies on natural beaches.  相似文献   

12.
Flow parameters (velocity and density) for turbidity currents in the Northwest Atlantic Mid-Ocean Channel (NAMOC) have been determined based on two different approaches, channel geometry and grain-size distributions of turbidites. Channel geometry has been obtained by a quantitative morphological analysis of the NAMOC which shows three genetically different segments in the upper 2000 km: (1) an upper 350 km-long ‘equilibrium channel’, (2) a middle 700 km-long ‘modified equilibrium channel’and (3) a lower ‘basement-controlled channel’which is more than 1000 km-long. In contrast to other meandering submarine channels the NAMOC has very low sinuosities and gradients. A consistently higher right-hand levee limits mean flow velocities to 3ms?1 and channel geometry indicates mean flow velocities of 0·86 m s?1 that decrease within the equilibrium channel to 0·05 m s?1. Grain-size distributions on the levees and in the channel suggest strong vertical velocity and density gradients for bank-full flows with velocities of up to 8 m s?1 and excess densities up to 87 kg m?3 at the base, and 0·45 m s?1 and 4 kg m?3 at the top. The internal shear produced by these strong vertical gradients results in a decoupling of the current head and body. Channel geometry appears to be mainly the result of the slowly moving dilute body of the current.  相似文献   

13.
Pluvial lake deposits are found throughout western North America and are frequently used to reconstruct regional paleoclimate. In Death Valley, California, USA, we apply the beach particle technique (BPT) of Adams (2003), Sedimentology, 50, 565–577 and Adams (2004), Sedimentology, 51, 671–673 to Lake Manly deposits at the Beatty Junction Bar Complex (BJBC), Desolation Canyon, and Manly Terraces and calculate paleowind velocities of 14–27 m/s. These wind velocities are within the range of present-day wind velocities recorded in the surrounding area. Sedimentary structures and clast provenance at Desolation Canyon and the Manly Terraces indicate sediment transport from north to south. Lake level, based on the elevation of constructional features, indicates that the hill west of the BJBC was an island and that the BJBC spits formed during simple lake regression. The data are consistent with the hypothesis that the present wind regime (velocity and direction) formed the pluvial Lake Manly features.  相似文献   

14.
Clastic, depositional strandplain systems have the potential to record changes in the primary drivers of coastal evolution: climate, sea‐level, and the frequency of major meteorological and oceanographic events. This study seeks to use one such record from a southern Brazilian strandplain to highlight the potentially‐complex nature of coastal sedimentological response to small changes in these drivers. Following a 2 to 4 m highstand at ca 5·8 ka in southern Brazil, falling sea‐level reworked shelf sediment onshore, forcing coastal progradation, smoothing the irregular coastline and forming the 5 km wide Pinheira Strandplain, composed of ca 500 successive beach and dune ridges. Sediment cores, grab samples and >11 km of ground‐penetrating radar profiles reveal that the strandplain sequence is composed of well‐sorted, fine to very‐fine quartz sand. Since the mid‐Holocene highstand, the shoreline prograded at a rate of ca 1 to 2 m yr?1 through the deposition of a 4 to 6 m thick shoreface unit; a 1 to 3 m thick foreshore unit containing ubiquitous ridge and runnel facies; and an uppermost beach and foredune unit. However, the discovery of a linear, 100 m wide barrier ridge with associated washover units, a 3 to 4 m deep lagoon and 250 m wide tidal inlet within the strandplain sequence reveals a period of shoreline transgression at 3·3 to 2·8 ka during the otherwise regressive developmental history of the plain. The protected nature of Pinheira largely buffered it from changes in precipitation patterns, wave energy and fluvial sediment supply during the time of its formation. However, multiple lines of evidence indicate that a change in the rate of relative sea‐level fall, probably due to either steric or ice‐volume effects, may have affected this coastline. Thus, whereas these other potential drivers cannot be fully discounted, this study provides insights into the complexity of decadal‐scale to millennial‐scale coastal response to likely variability in sea‐level change rates.  相似文献   

15.
A Late Holocene cliff-top deposit of large boulders well above the limits of modern storm waves is described from the southern coast of the Atacama Desert (northern Chile). The largest moved boulder weighs >40 t and field data point to a flood height >18·5 m above high tide level and an inland penetration greater than 284 m from the cliff edge. The minimum flow velocity needed for particle entrainment was estimated as 10·1 ms−1 and the most likely processes of sediment deposition for different boulders were deduced. The boulder distribution, sorting and orientation of imbricated debris, together with the significant wave height of extreme storms reported and the occurrence of interplate earthquakes in the study area indicate that the deposit records a single event, interpreted here as a tsunami wave train rather than exceptional storm waves. The boulder field was dated to between the 13th and the 16th Centuries ce and possibly correlates with the 1420 Oei orphan tsunami, that affected the eastern coast of Japan. A magnitude of 8·8 to 9·4 has been estimated for the earthquake, which may be one of the larger events of a super-cycle of earthquakes in the southern Atacama Desert. These cycle-ending earthquakes involve large rupture areas (lengths in excess of 600 km) and highly destructive ocean-wide tsunamigenic events.  相似文献   

16.
Thick bay‐fill sequences that often culminate in strandplain development serve as important sedimentary archives of land–ocean interaction, although distinguishing between internal and external forcings is an ongoing challenge. This study employs sediment cores, ground‐penetrating radar surveys, radiocarbon dates, palaeogeographic reconstructions and hydrodynamic modelling to explore the role of autogenic processes – notably a reduction in wave energy in response to coastal embayment infilling – in coastal evolution and shoreline morphodynamics. Following a regional 2 to 4 m highstand at ca 5·8 ka, the 75 km2 Tijucas Strandplain in southern Brazil built from fluvial sediments deposited into a semi‐enclosed bay. Holocene regressive deposits are underlain by fluvial sands and a Pleistocene transgressive–regressive sequence, and backed by a highstand barrier‐island. The strandplain is immediately underlain by 5 to 16 m of seaward‐thickening, fluvially derived, Holocene‐age, basin‐fill mud. Several trends are observed from the landward (oldest) to the seaward (youngest) sections of the strandplain: (i) the upper shoreface and foreshore become finer and thinner and shift from sand‐dominated to mud‐dominated; (ii) beachface slopes decrease from >11° to ca 7°; and (iii) progradation rates increase from 0·4 to 1·8 m yr?1. Hydrodynamic modelling demonstrates a correlation between progressive shoaling of Tijucas Bay driven by sea‐level fall and sediment infilling and a decrease in onshore wave‐energy transport from 18 to 4 kW m?1. The combination of allogenic (sediment supply, falling relative sea‐level and geology) and autogenic (decrease in wave energy due to bay shoaling) processes drove the development of a regressive system with characteristics that are rare, if not unique, in the Holocene and rock records. These findings demonstrate the complexities in architecture styles of highstand and regressive systems tracts. Furthermore, this article highlights the diverse internal and external processes and feedbacks responsible for the development of these intricate marginal marine sedimentary systems.  相似文献   

17.
Oxygen air-water gas exchange was measured using floating chambers in two shallow tidal estuaries of differing bathymetry and local terrain, near Waquoit Bay, Massachusetts (United States). The specific chamber design permitted measurements of gas flux in 15 min, allowing analysis of the relationship with wind speed and tidal stage. Exchange coefficients ranged from 0.5 to 2.5 g O2·m?2 h?1 atm?1 (equivalent to piston velocities of 1.5 to 7 cm h?1) for wind speeds of 0.3 to 9 m s?1 at 10 m elevation. While the relationships for each estuary appear linear (significant linear regressions with wind speed were shown for each estuary, and the slopes were different at the 99.5% confidence level), the range of speeds differed at the two sites and an exponential function of wind speed was consistent with the combined data from both estuaries. A power function of wind speed was not an acceptable model. The exchange coefficients for our estuaries are from 57% to as low as 9% of that predicted by previously published generic equations. Because the atmospheric correction can be significant in shallow, metabolically active coastal waters, we suggest that empirically determined relationships for gas exchange versus wind for a specific estuary are preferable to the predictions of the general equations. While the floating chamber method should be used cautiously, at low winds speeds (below 8 m s?1) and in slowly flowing waters, it provides a convenient approach for quantifying these site-specific differences. The differences, especially those between shallow sheltered systems and the open waters best fit by some published relationships, are ecologically important and do not appear yet to be measurable by other methods.  相似文献   

18.
Surface to atmosphere exchange has received much attention in numerical weather prediction models. This exchange is defined by turbulent parameters such as frictional velocity, drag coefficient and heat fluxes, which have to be derived experimentally from high-frequency observations. High-frequency measurements of wind speed, air temperature and water vapour mixing ratio (eddy covariance measurements), were made during the Integrated Ground Observation Campaign (IGOC) of Cloud Aerosol Interaction and Precipitation Enhancement Experiment (CAIPEEX) at Mahabubnagar, India (16°44′N, 77°59′E) in the south-west monsoon season. Using these observations, an attempt was made to investigate the behaviour of the turbulent parameters, mentioned above, with respect to wind speed. We found that the surface layer stability derived from the Monin–Obukhov length scale, is well depicted by the magnitude of wind speed, i.e., the atmospheric boundary layer was under unstable regime for wind speeds >4 m s?1; under stable regime for wind speeds <2 m s?1 and under neutral regime for wind speeds in the range of 2–3 m s?1. All the three stability regimes were mixed for wind speeds 3–4 m s?1. The drag coefficient shows scatter variation with wind speed in stable as well as unstable conditions.  相似文献   

19.
The mechanisms of berm development along a microtidal-high energy beach is examined. Such a beach with medium-sized sand and monsoon wave-controlled profile at Valiathura, south-west coast of India, is selected for this study. The waves which very rarely fall below 1 m, often exceed 4 m during the monsoon period of May to October. The erosion-accretion pattern of the beach shows a cyclicity and the berm development is mainly due to the onshore migration and welding of longshore bars on to the beach following the monsoon rough season. The stages of berm development in the present microtidal beach are more or less similar to the model presented by Hine for a mesotidal case, except for the following intermediate additional stages. The longshore bar develops due to the erosion of beach when the wave steepness was above 0·04, gets flattened when it falls below 0·04, and then reforms nearer to the shoreline as a swash bar. This reformed bar gets divided and the inner bar gets welded on to the beach, followed by the outer bar developing the berm. During the onshore migration of the longshore bar and berm development the beach face becomes partially reflective with the surf scaling parameter, εb between 2·5 and 33. The inshore is dissipative with the inshore surf scaling parameter, εs?33. The offshore side of the longshore bar is partially reflective with its surf scaling parameter, εbar between 2·5 and 33. The breakers are spilling or plunging. Vertical growth of the berm is mainly due to the changes in swash-limit caused by the variations in wave steepness, breaker height and type. Vertical growth stops when the beach-face attains equilibrium with the grain size-wave energy relationship, and a wave steepness below 0·02 helps to sustain this state.  相似文献   

20.
An examination of a portion of Great Abaco Island. Bahamas, reveals that the coastal zone may be subdivided into two morphological units: barrier and lagoon complexes, and rock benches with boulder ramparts. The sand barriers, colonized by multistoried vegetation, are stratigraphically thin and are characterized by narrow coralline beaches and beach rock. The imbricate boulder ramparts adjacent to deeper water, reveal that, on occasion, high wave energy conditions occur. It is apparent that hurricanes and tropical storms are significant in modifying coastal southwest Great Abaco.  相似文献   

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