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综述第27届国家海岸工程会议（ICCE2000）上有关海浪特性及其传播变形研究的新进展，内容包括海浪的时域特性，海浪的特征，海浪的传播变形和波浪的破碎，反射等四部分。 相似文献
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为了研究真实海洋表面马蹄波的波形特征,通过物理模型试验研究了马蹄波的波形特征参数。研究中通过引入满足共振条件的扰动波成功在试验室内产生了马蹄波,测量和分析了马蹄波的波面升高和水平弧形波峰的几何特征,定义了新的垂向几何参数和水平几何特征参数,给出了不同水深情况下的这些参数的结果,得出了水深对马蹄波几何形态的影响。理论分析了马蹄波的横向结果,并与试验测量结果和弧形处理结果进行了对比。结果表明,马蹄波波形受水深影响较大;水深越浅,马蹄波的波面形状越接近椭圆余弦波,横向波长也越大。 相似文献
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为了解杭州湾北部波浪特性,利用杭州湾北部一年实测波浪资料,统计分析该地区的波参数变化特征,运用回归分析获得波参数之间的相关关系,并用谱参数及波谱形态分析了实测波浪频谱的变化特性。结果表明,与杭州湾南部海域波浪特性明显不同之处是热带气旋对本观测水域波浪的影响强度大于冬季季风的影响强度,较大波浪主要由热带气旋引起,并且路径相似的热带气旋在杭州湾南、北部测点引起的最大波浪其参数较为接近。研究水域常浪向分布在东东北至东南向,强浪向主要分布在东东北方向。研究成果可为河口海湾相关工程的设计建造和沿海防灾减灾提供重要参考。 相似文献
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利用东矶列岛海域一年实测波浪资料,统计分析波要素特征,以台风“利奇马”为例,分析台风浪演变过程。结果表明：研究海域年平均有效波高0.88 m,年平均周期4.3 s,年最大波高8.67 m出现在夏季台风“利奇马”影响时。研究海域以轻浪为主,其次是小浪和中浪;常浪向为ESE,次常浪向为E和SE;强浪向为SSE,次强浪向为SE。波浪平均持续时间和波高之间符合指数衰减关系。台风“利奇马”影响期间,最大谱峰56.20 m2/Hz,台风浪谱型以双峰谱为主,台风浪类型经历了涌浪—混合浪—风浪—混合浪—涌浪这一演变过程。 相似文献
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Laboratory Study on the Interaction Between Regular Obliquely Incident Waves and Vertical Walls 总被引：1，自引：3，他引：1
Li Yucheng 《中国海洋工程》2001,(2):195-203
The characteristics of wave forces are studied based on physical model tests with regular waves. The ratio of obliquely incident wave forces to normally incident wave forces on unit length of a vertical wall is related with various factors. A linear reduction of the mean force of obliquely incident waves is confirmed with an increase in the relative caisson length. Also the characteristics of reflection coefficient of diagonal waves are discussed. 相似文献
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基于物理模型试验,考虑畸形波参数、相对板宽、相对波高等影响因素,就畸形波对平顶双层水平板防波堤作用进行研究。首先对畸形波作用下双层水平板的波浪力分布特征进行了讨论,然后就最大波动压强、结构最大总垂向力与不规则波作用进行了对比分析。结果表明,畸形波作用下,双层水平板最大波动压力出现在前端迎浪区域附近,向尾端逐渐递减。双层水平板4个受力面的压力分布不同且有相位差,4个受力面的最大波动压力时间差约在0.1Tp~0.4Tp范围内变化。与不规则波作用比较,畸形波作用没有显著改变波压包络分布特征,但增大了波压包络强度值。试验范围内,就最大总力而言,两者最大总浮托力比值在1.06~2.45间变化;向下的最大总垂向力比值在1.22~2.07之间变化;就波动压力而言,其增大的幅度与畸形波参数α1相关性最强,随α1的增大而增大,在α1=2.04~3.1试验范围内,畸形波作用时的最大压强比不规则波作用时可约增大20%~80%。就最大波吸力而言,两者的比值与畸形波参数α4相关性最强,随α4的增大而减小。在α4=0.62~0.75试验范围内,最大波吸力强度的比值在1.61~0.87范围内变化。当α4≤0.72时,畸形波作用时的最大波吸力大于不规则波作用时的最大波吸力;当α4 > 0.72时则刚好相反。 相似文献
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应用基于势流理论的时域高阶边界元方法,建立一个完全非线性的三维数值波浪水槽,通过实时模拟推板造波运动的方式产生波浪。通过混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新自由水面和造波板的瞬时位置。利用所建模型分别模拟了有限水深波和浅水波,与试验结果、相关文献结果和浅水理论结果吻合较好,且波浪能够稳定传播。系统地讨论造波板的运动圆频率、振幅和水深等对波浪传播和波浪特性的影响,并对波浪的非线性特性进行分析,研究发现造波板运动频率、运动振幅以及水深均将对波浪形态和波浪非线性产生显著影响。结果为真实水槽造波机的运动控制以及波浪生成试验提供了依据,便于实验室设置更合理的参数来准确模拟不同条件下的波浪。 相似文献
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南海灾害性波浪基本特征研究 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
本文基于1991-2016年全球卫星高度计融合数据对南海灾害性波浪基本特征进行了分析,根据灾害性波浪诱发天气类型不同,将其分为"台风浪"和"非台风浪"。依此主线,对两类波浪在南海不同海域的特征进行了研究,并提出了用于定量研究两类波浪强度关系的台风浪权重系数（W）,得到了两类波浪在南海相对强弱关系的分布规律,量化研究了南海灾害性波浪的特征。本文以卫星高度计波高数据为样本进行了极值分析,得到了南海重现期波浪要素整体分布规律,研究发现W值大小与广义极值曲线类型显著相关。 相似文献
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《海洋技术学报》2024,(1)
为了分析台风影响下浙江沿海风和浪的演变特点，利用浙江省海洋浮标站监测数据和欧洲中期天气预报中心第五代全球气候大气再分析数据（European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts Reanalysis v5，ERA5），选取2010年以来严重影响浙江的7次台风个例，对台风作用下浙江沿海海面风和浪的演变特点进行分析。结果表明：在台风影响过程中，海浪波型多数呈现混合浪-风浪-混合浪的演变规律；涌浪波型的出现与台风强度及其与浮标站的距离和方位有关，也与海洋潮汐现象紧密相关。台风影响期间，浙江沿海浪高的变化受风速和风向共同作用影响。在风向不变的情况下，持续风速增大对浪高的增大有明显作用；风向的变化也会对浪高变化产生影响，向岸风和离岸风的转变会造成浪高出现剧烈变化。ERA5 再分析资料有效波高在台风浪较大时会呈现偏小的趋势，分析订正后的ERA5 有效波高发现，台风浪有效波高大值区与台风中心位置相关。研究结果可为严重影响浙江沿海的台风浪预报服务提供参考。 相似文献
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An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
The propagation speed is one of the most important characteristics for describing freak waves. The research of freak wave speed is not only helpful for understanding the generation mechanism and evolution process of freak waves, but also applicable to the prediction. A stable and accurate method is proposed for the calculation of the freak wave speed, in which physical model tests are carried out to measure the motion of the largest wave crest along the wave tank. The linear regression relationship between the spatial position of the largest wave crest and instantaneous moment is established to calculate the speed of totally 248 cases of experimental freak waves and 312 supplementary cases of numerical freak waves. Based on the calculate results, a semitheoretical and semiempirical formula is proposed by using a regression analysis method to predict the speed of the freak wave, and the nonlinear characteristic of the freak wave speed is also investigated. 相似文献
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我国的水运工程建设频繁受到台风浪的侵袭。为了对台风浪的防灾减灾提供有益帮助,本文基于第三代海浪模式SWAN建立了南中国海台风浪数值模型,并以“0906”号台风“莫拉菲”为例对模拟结果进行了分析。结果表明,台风风场与波浪场相似,即大小均由中心向外围递减,方向均为逆时针旋转;台风风场呈圆对称分布,而波浪场由于受到海底地形与岸线影响,呈现椭圆对称分布。有效波高等值线亦从中心向外围递减,且形状受地形与岸线影响较大。对台风浪组成机制的探讨结果显示风浪和涌浪均可组成台风浪,且海底地形与岸线(例如岛屿效应)亦对台风浪特性有所影响。 相似文献
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Wave radiation stress is the main driving force of wave-induced near-shore currents. It is directly related to the hydrodynamic characteristics of near-shore current whether the calculation of wave radiation stress is accurate or not. Irregular waves are more capable of reacting wave motion in the ocean compared to regular waves.Therefore, the calculation of the radiation stress under irregular waves will be more able to reflect the wave driving force in the actual near-shore current. Exact solution and approximate solution of the irregular wave radiation stress are derived in this paper and the two kinds of calculation methods are compared. On the basis of this, the experimental results are used to further verify the calculation of wave energy in the approximate calculation method. The results show that the approximate calculation method of irregular wave radiation stress has a good accuracy under the condition of narrow-band spectrum, which can save a lot of computing time, and thus improve the efficiency of calculation. However, the exact calculation method can more accurately reflect the fluctuation of radiation stress at each moment and each location. 相似文献
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Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash zones on various beach slopes are discussed using numerical simulations. Simulated surface elevations of both primary waves and low-frequency waves across the surf zone were first compared with experimental data and good agreement found. Low-frequency wave characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and their relationship to the primary wave field on a series of sea bottom slopes. Unlike primary waves, low-frequency wave energy increases towards the shoreline. Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash are a function of incident waves and the sea bottom slope and hence the saturation level of the surf zone. Wave energy on a gently sloping beach is dominated by low-frequency waves while primary waves play a significant role on a steep beach. Low-frequency wave radiation from the surf zone on a given beach depends on primary wave frequency and beach slope. However, a very poor correlation was found between surf similarity parameter and low-frequency wave radiation. 相似文献
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The statistical distribution of wave crest characteristics such as crest length, crest height, joint crest height and length are analyzed based on numerical simulation of 3-D random waves. The effects of directional functions and wave crest defining methods on crest characteristics are also studied.The results show that wave crests are no longer uniform and continuous in directional wave field; the distribution of crest length is obviously influenced by the directional function; the statistics of crest characteristics obtained by the two different methods are almost the same. 相似文献
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利用实验室风浪槽内测得的波面序列资料估计风浪外频谱。通过与实测风浪内频谱的比较,研究实测风浪外频谱的谱形特征,探讨海浪外频谱与内频谱的相似性问题。此外,还检验一种理论海浪外频谱。 相似文献
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基于1987年和1988年夏季在古镇口港直立堤前的实测资料,对波浪和波压力连续记录进行了统计分析和谱估计,研究了在堤前海浪不发生破碎条件下,堤前波浪和堤面不同高程上压力波的波面高度概率分布、堤前波浪波高和周期与波压力幅度和周期的概率分布特征、入射波行近提前过程中的谱变化及堤面不同高程上压力谱的变化特征。主要结果总结在本文最后一节。 相似文献
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Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins’s linear model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper. 相似文献
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本文基于真实地形、潮汐的高分辨率三维MITgcm海洋环流模式,对南海北部a波（大振幅波列形式）和b波（孤立子形式）的生成与传播特征进行了数值研究。首先,我们总结和分析了这些波动的生成与传播特征。然后我们计算了吕宋海峡的能量收支。能量的生成在一天内有三个极大值,其中最大值对应a波的生成。吕宋海峡西边界的能通量一天内有两个极大值,较大的那个对应a波的生成而另一个对应b波的生成。我们设计了敏感性试验来探究吕宋海峡东西海脊对a、b波的生成和传播造成的影响。通过对比敏感性实验和标准试验的结果,发现对于a波的生成东海脊必不可少,但西海脊几乎没有影响。西海脊削弱了a波的振幅但未对a波波速造成明显的影响。b波来自于从东海脊生成的扰动信号。西海脊加强了这个扰动信号但减慢了它的传播速度。 相似文献